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136  Camaro Research Group Discussion / Restoration / Re: Perventing rust in the 1/4 panels of my 69 camaro on: February 27, 2014, 05:47:42 PM
Vince/others,
Nothing wrong with POR-15 products IMO, just that it is actually a paint that can be put over rusted areas and it cures by the moisture in the air, from what I understand or at least the product I have used. Here is a link to Waxoyl. http://www.waxoyl-usa.com/products/corrosion-prevention Should have had it in my earlier post(lazy, I guess). Looks like Waxoyl (according to the site)will not sell to private buyers and Centers that apply are only in the upper East Coast, as of now. Google shopping shows products available. I learned about product from being a M-B Tech. Used more so in Europe. I am not an authority on paints or rust proofing, so perhaps some of our "body" guys will chime in. I was only sharing what I have had experience with and feel are preferable and superior to the heavier black rust proofing products. There may be a similar product to Waxoyl that can be purchased by a DIY. Eastwood ,I believe have products. You may talk with a reputable shop and thy could possibly have the means to buy the Waxoyl product for you. Another product I have no experience, but have heard reccomended is called Dinitrol (UK) here is one link:http://www.ebay.com/itm/like/321310150227?lpid=82   Might just want to Google "rust prevention,or  proofing,or  corrosion,or  protection" Hope this is of some use.
137  Camaro Research Group Discussion / Restoration / Re: Perventing rust in the 1/4 panels of my 69 camaro on: February 27, 2014, 11:26:36 AM
In a word,YES! Except you did not mention which one or kind. I just posted a day or two ago about a product call Waxoyl I think under my post on "Nagging ?". I also have some spray cans of cosmoline (look online) One drawback, it has an odor for awhile. I would not use anything like the black undercoat or heavy caked on type stuff as moisture can get trapped between the undercoat and panel causing what you are trying to prevent. The products I mention are clear or opaque, thin and adhere well and can be done by a DIY some are in spray aerosol with long tube with a head that sprays out 3 ways to do things like frame rails and tight, unseen places. Prevention is worth a pound of rust,as they say.
138  Camaro Research Group Discussion / General Discussion / Re: Pretty Cool Ole Car on: February 27, 2014, 10:56:58 AM
As for the $2 vs $77 registration increase, that increase is over 45 years and in the same 45 years GM has increased the price of a new Z/28 from around $4,000 to a whopping $75,000.

You might also note (besides inflation) that the $4000 Z/28 was an ordinary production car, where the new Z/28 is an all-out race car for the track that includes and meets 40 years of safety and emissions regulations. Apples and oranges.
It might be, like the pharmaceutical industry and its high prices, that one is paying for the R&D of a track proven car.
139  Camaro Research Group Discussion / Restoration / Re: connecting rod reconditioning on: February 27, 2014, 10:13:10 AM
Hi I have a shot at a set of 67 SS350 dimple rods at a decent price.  They are reconditioned and my question is if rods can be over-reconditioned?  Is my best course of action to take them to a shop have them measured and magnefluxed then make my decision?  I don't want to have a bunch of money in a set of rods I can't end up using.  Thanks.

Several statements you make I do not quite understand. I am not aware of any 350 rods referred to as a "dimple" rod. If you have them "checked out" and are getting them at a "decent price", how can you have too much in them? If they are bad, a decision will be made at that point whether to spend extra to make usable or pitch them. If you have a concern about the quality and do not have the tools to measure them yourself, perhaps you should just get a used set of small journal (1967 and earlier) rods and have them re-conditioned at the shop you would have these rods you are considering checked out. SB Rods are generally plentiful and rod machine work for stock rebuild is generally not a bank breaker. Over re-conditioned? Not sure what that means-the rod is either good or it is not. Now, other modifications are possible such as "floating" or "bushing" the small end, indexing, balancing, stress relieving, side beam polished, lightened, etc...A basic rebuild, I would have the rods checked for bent/twisting, magnafliuxed, big end resized, and new rod boltsd, if money holds out have reciprocating assembly balanced.
A note:
    small journal, 11/32 rod bolts in 1967
    large journal, 3/8 rod bolts 1968, 1969
    forged steel
    pressed pin
    small rod beam
    a Chevrolet Engineering Servce Letter, dated November 1, 1967, read in part:
    "In order to use up a surplus of 45,000 1967 350 cu. in. Connecting Rod Assemblies (incorporating the 11/32" rod bolts and nuts), approximately 5,600 1968 RPO L30 (327 Cu. In.) engines with Powerglide Transmissions were built from 10-11-67 through 10-13-67 with the 1967 Connecting Rod Assemblies."
140  Camaro Research Group Discussion / General Discussion / Re: Replacement parts - Country of Origin on: February 26, 2014, 03:14:20 PM
Not car part related, but a similar story. I bought a sprayer for the farm to spray weeds etc...About the third use it quit, it was the pump motor. I took it off and on the bottom it was cast into the part - MADE in CHINA. On the side of the plastic tank was a decal that said, PROUDLY MADE in the USA! The company is called FIMCO. They would not honor their product or replace it and I swore them off and I wouldn't buy anything from that company again. They probably make condoms as far as I know based on their quality.
I try not to buy anything made in the last 20 years. If I need a shovel or similar, I buy used at auction rather than new at a store. Stuff today is just a cheap facsimile of what it used to be.
141  Camaro Research Group Discussion / Originality / Re: Tanks, cores and a question on: February 26, 2014, 07:33:42 AM
Ko-lek-tor your 12B Dec. 68 car is a 427 425 hp ?

I wish Vince. No, it is the first car in my signature below,SS/RS 396. That rolling excrement in my avatar, heading to the body shop soon, I am hoping. And yes, it has a curved neck 4 core.
142  Camaro Research Group Discussion / Originality / Re: Tanks, cores and a question on: February 25, 2014, 11:42:27 PM
I, too, have a BB car 12B Dec 68. It came with a UY, with IO and OO tanks, like it should have. My post on this car shows a pic of the radiator. It has curved neck. It had the original core until I replaced it 2 years ago using the original top and bottom plates. One thing that I question is that it has a J date =Sept. Not sure why it is so early except it was probably used because of a shortage as CRG report states that substitutes were used, I will add, usually the next bigger radiator substituted, as I understand.
I also have another radiator I acquired recently and saw the car it came from. It is a 12C Dec 68 BB Camaro. it still has the tag=ZD with correct tanks, original core with OO & IL tanks with a date of M=Dec.
Steve, your BB radiator sounds like an real oddity and perhaps a victim of the same shortage at the same time. I really don't know, but I guess anything is possible. Both of my radiators are manual trans. type also.I'll add, all cars referred to are Norwood cars as I live close to Nor. Plant.
143  Camaro Research Group Discussion / Restoration / Re: Galvanizing a Fuel Tank on: February 24, 2014, 12:59:42 PM
Bob,
Probably not the answer you are looking for. I took my gas tank to a radiator shop to get the neck re-soldered a few months back. At that time, I asked about having tank re-dipped, re-tinned ?(terminology). This shop is well know in doing rare and difficult antique radiator restoration work and the owner advertises in Hemmings and Old Cars publications. The owner said he could re-tin small areas to repair tank, but he could not do entire tank. So, if there are just some areas that tin has deteriorated, consider just having those areas done and leave the original as is. You can bring back the sheen with some fine steel wool or 600 wet sand paper. Here is a link to the radiator shop I use:  http://www.yellowpages.com/wilmington-oh/mip/powell-radiator-service-5173186  You may call him and he may know a place since he does resto work.
144  Camaro Research Group Discussion / General Discussion / Re: Coming Soon:Home page pics w/ stories/info/anything the owner wants to say on: February 24, 2014, 12:42:00 PM
I had an idea.(Please everyone, don't get scared Roll Eyes). This "bio" on our cars or our lives that will be seen with the car pic is great and I support this effort, but I think it go another step further. If this bio was attached as part of our profile page. Anyone, at anytime could read a brief history on the car/owner by clicking on the profile. I think members should have 3 options they can choose if this idea grows legs. Option 1) let anyone view bio who clicks on your profile. 2) let only members have privilege to view other member's profile bio. 3) have a privacy option that allows it not to be displayed (of course, one could just not provide a profile altogether, I realize). There may be someone who wants a bio available, but for privacy, does not want it publicly available.Space should be made for multiple bios for several of our members have more than one Camaro.
145  Camaro Research Group Discussion / Restoration / Re: Are There Any "Off Limit" Areas in Your Restoration? on: February 24, 2014, 12:16:34 PM
I guess it will be a semi-preserved car. I don't want the underside painted either. Is there a preservative or clear that will protect underside and inner panels from corrosion and rust?
With the floorpan and rear frame rail rot I've seen on your car, how are you not going to paint the belly? Blasting is a requirement for proper repair. Cavity waxes are available from mul
I am just now finishing the paint and body project I've always wanted to do on my '69 RS since I purchased it in Nov 1991.  When I first acquired the car it had already been repainted and the original engine was long gone.

As I have owned the car over the years my intent has been to maintain an original appearance.  That began with acquiring a '69 Camaro 327 engine to replace the non-original, non-Camaro engine that was in the car when I acquired it.

Over the years my attitude has modified slightly - especially when it came down to the $$$$$ for the paint and body work.  Since my car is neither an  "all original" or "big dollar" car I decided to improve on original if it made sense.  This had included powder coating many pieces including the inner fenders, license plate brackets, misc. brackets, and the wheels.  (Obvious departure from original factory.)

I also had the DX1 stripe put on the car and unlike original the stripe is under the clear coat to achieve a smooth slick finish as opposed to being on top.  Then come to think about it - I can 't replicate the original factory paint anyway - no longer available - and with the base coat / clear coat systems available today - trying to replicate a late '60's laquer system to me wouldn't be the way to go - even if you could.

So although the car still basically looks original, and due to it just being a "nice secretary's car" (as one guy described it to me at a show last year - I asked him where his '69 Camaro was - he turned and walked away) for my money I wanted to improve on factory if it made sense to me to do so.

Partial VIN under the cowl got painted with the body - didn't hurt a thing - clearly visible after paint.

My car has a B and X11 crayon marks in the interior.  They have been left as found - covered when necessary during painting.

Good luck with your project.
It can only be original once and I've finally admitted that to myself... mine is getting a new floor pan and full quarters will replace the 80% quarters put on back in the 80s. It willl never be a surivivor again because nature wasn't stopped a long time ago. The only things now that I don't want touched are the X66 crayon mark and the trim tag. Everything else I want blasted, prepped, primed and painted as correctly as I can afford. I only want to do this once and I don't want to fool myself into thinking that original is better than protected from future rust/rot.
tiple companies. Other post paint rust prevention measures should also be taken. Your bodyshop should know all this.

All you guys, very grateful for the imput and I mean ALL, not just the ones I respond to.
Saron (Scott)-My ignorance in my statement of not painting bottom. Perhaps wishful thinking, wanting car as I remember it and not wanting it all shiny new looking.
Richard-My car is lot like yours- a mongrel of sorts, but original in many respects and I too want to make it original looking, I anticipate having to modify my attitude also when it gets to the $$$$ part of the bodywork. Some of my comments are more inline with my desires and not the realities. I need to be pulled back down to Earth as bodywork gets underway.
Hawk-My thoughts exactly. I think I should clear up when I say areas I do not want touched as meaning that I desire it to look as original and I am afraid that might not be able to be replicated if stripped. As said trying to get grounded and get realistic and let go of some crazy ideas I may have. Preservation is very important. I am under the philosophy of doing it one time right instead of three times wrong. I am doing this once and would be very dissapointed to have car needing redone in say 5 ,10 or whatever years. That is why it is stripped down to just the body and that is why I am not just price shopping for bodywork. Any measures or advice to insure car will not rust out again, like painting or coating(rustproofing) areas the factory neglected are appreciated and welcome before I get BW done. I hope you guys understand. There is a side that wants to be a rigid originalist, yet the practical and preservation side of me knows that some of my ideas need modifying and there is room to compromise and areas that can be done better than factory to insure work lasts.
146  Camaro Research Group Discussion / Restoration / Re: Are There Any "Off Limit" Areas in Your Restoration? on: February 23, 2014, 04:07:13 PM
Gary, I am an originality freak also. That is why I ask. Unfortunately, my car had a custom paint, as can be seen. The car has rust also. The decision I made was to re-paint car. To avoid quality issues and overspray, I pretty much got her down to the bare body naked. everything will be re-painted-cowl,sub-f.,trunk, etc.. so, as much as I would like it to be a survivor, it is basically getting a paint and re-assembly of all the original components fixing or re-placing what is needed. I guess it will be a semi-preserved car. I don't want the underside painted either. Is there a preservative or clear that will protect underside and inner panels from corrosion and rust? When I had 1/4 put on in 83, the guy used this product:  http://www.waxoyl-usa.com/ .Anyone else have a recommendation?
147  Camaro Research Group Discussion / General Discussion / Re: Educate Me on: February 23, 2014, 03:06:47 PM
I have a friend that has a pro-street 75 Nova, so that made me look at that year first. You guys must have blinders on and not seeing past the second generation Nova's. lol  Grin 
geez, in my mind, Chevy stopped building cars after about 72!
148  Camaro Research Group Discussion / Restoration / Are There Any "Off Limit" Areas in Your Restoration? on: February 23, 2014, 02:21:26 PM
In a current response (in the decoding/numbers section) regarding the crayon markings behind rear seat, it got me thinking about this question. I am about to send my car off to the body shop. This comes with great trepidation, as it should. I have not been this scared of getting something I own "hacked" on since I got the ole' vasectomy. sorry TMI.lol. Anyway- Is there any area you tell your body guy or as a DIY, tell yourself, that you want it left original and untouched? The crayon marks behind the seat, mine has "X2" and barely readable, I am telling the shop to mask it off and do not sand, paint or touch that area. I, also, am making the same request for the hidden VIN on top of cowl and cowl trim tag. Please do not touch, strip, sand or paint these, just mask them off, I will instruct. What do you guys think? Are you in agreement? Is there anything else you would make sure is left original? Some might question, why are you doing this? It is kind of like the strip of bricks left at the Indy Brickyard, just to prove what is original under the pavement preserving a little of the past. I think for originality and posterity and as a connection or link to the car's past is why I am doing this. Those areas are only original once. Cool
149  Camaro Research Group Discussion / Restoration / Re: 1969 Z/28 Leaf Springs on: February 21, 2014, 10:50:24 PM
Well, that sounds pretty doable. Of course, when you are as talented as you are Lynn, I guess it seemed pretty easy! Thanks for the inspiration. Any particular grade of metal stock (hardness) you recommend?
150  Camaro Research Group Discussion / General Discussion / Re: Nagging questions about parts and restoration direction on: February 20, 2014, 08:47:55 PM
told you all my stuff is old,lol. I think it came over on the GM Mayflower
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