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97079 Posts in 11682 Topics by 4578 Members
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136  Camaro Research Group Discussion / Restoration / Re: 1969 Z/28 Leaf Springs on: February 21, 2014, 10:50:24 PM
Well, that sounds pretty doable. Of course, when you are as talented as you are Lynn, I guess it seemed pretty easy! Thanks for the inspiration. Any particular grade of metal stock (hardness) you recommend?
137  Camaro Research Group Discussion / General Discussion / Re: Nagging questions about parts and restoration direction on: February 20, 2014, 08:47:55 PM
told you all my stuff is old,lol. I think it came over on the GM Mayflower
138  Camaro Research Group Discussion / General Discussion / Re: Requesting Members Update Their Profile on: February 20, 2014, 04:23:25 PM
well, thanks, but there is only ONE you, Thank God Grin Enjoy and value your posts Gary. It was you that was ill, right? Where you also searching for a 837?-If you reply-send a PM as it is not germain to the original post, thanks, buddy.B.
139  Camaro Research Group Discussion / General Discussion / Requesting Members Update Their Profile on: February 20, 2014, 01:18:00 PM
 Smiley Smiley Smiley I  and others may like to know where members reside/live, especially when wanting to find others that live in the same area-city,state- to build friendships, notify of events/local shows,have a source of other cars and parts to have close by to look at and compare and a host of other good camaraderie. If that is your goal, as well, please go to your profile page and update/edit your location line. Thank you,CRG. Wink Wink Wink
140  Camaro Research Group Discussion / General Discussion / Re: Nagging questions about parts and restoration direction on: February 20, 2014, 01:07:17 PM
A question was asked how new or old my NOS panels are. I replied that all panels were bought before 1982. Here is a pic of one label I took off a fender. Can someone educate me how, or if, the age can be determined by the label? Upper RH corner #s look like 50F5 if that is pertinent. The rest looks readable in pic. Thanks, B. Cool

Here is one for sale-See why I asked if I should sell? http://www.camarocentral.com/1969_Fender_RH_for_Rally_Sport_GM_NOS_p/3953858.htm  Shocked Shocked
141  Camaro Research Group Discussion / Decoding/Numbers / Re: Cowl Tag Check on: February 19, 2014, 10:46:11 AM
In my opinion, a "rebody" is the same as a "VIN swap" and should be handled the same.

I agree

But lets play devil's advocate for a minute:

Lets say a car is a complete rust bucket or had/has been totaled or was a previous track car (drag or road race) and it requires all new floors, firewall, inner & outer quarters, windshield and back glass channels, dash, trunk floor, trunk lid, doors and fenders.  Would that not be considered a "rebody" if all or most of those parts were replaced either with NOS sheetmetal or not?   

I guess ultimately my question is how far is too far..??..
Good point DW. My Ohio rust bucket needs a new dash. I am having sleepless nights wondering how that will be repaired without compromising the integrity or authenticity of car.  And my car is only a pittance in value, with no previous owner (other than myself) to come forward and explain how or why something was replaced. if there is documentation and a plausible explanation, should that not be enough to squelch the naysayers? On a similar, but, of course, less value to some, I would want some proof a car is a factory 4 speed if the tunnel was hacked up or had been replaced.
142  Camaro Research Group Discussion / Decoding/Numbers / Re: Rear axle code on: February 18, 2014, 02:58:35 PM
Not sure what you mean by BB and SB. If you need a better picture of that area  I would glad to take another now that I know what you are interested in.

Possible car could have been a factory BB= Big Block Chevrolet,IE 396 cu or SB=small block Chev. IE 350 cu. VIN has nothing to do with that. Different engine required certain components that are different between BB&SB Like engine mounts, radiator, a/c box,trans. x-member,clutch z bar,shifter,shift linkage and shift mount to trans, radiator shroud. Just because your car has a SB in it now that does not prove it originally came that way, I am trying to clarify what originally came in your car and not assuming it is a 350 car..
143  Camaro Research Group Discussion / Decoding/Numbers / Re: Rear axle code on: February 18, 2014, 02:36:27 PM
Thanks for pic. I wanted to see if it may have originally been a BB car. I am not familiar with IDing BB a/c equipped cars, which I realized your car was an a/c car right after I posted, so others may want to comment. Looks like a SB shroud and bracket though.
144  Camaro Research Group Discussion / Decoding/Numbers / Re: Rear axle code on: February 17, 2014, 09:23:47 PM
Take a pic of eng. compartment and please post.
145  Camaro Research Group Discussion / Decoding/Numbers / Re: Rear axle code on: February 17, 2014, 07:48:34 PM
CJD=1971 350 270hp 4 bbl. TH350 12th day of August Build.Tonawanda Engine plant N.Y. Engine was used in Chevelle, Camaro, Nova and Passenger cars.
 I'll ad that your VIN is 3661 after my 3E car, which in another post I point  out it must have left plant after the 7th of April as it has components dated April 7th.
146  Camaro Research Group Discussion / General Discussion / Re: Nagging questions about parts and restoration direction on: February 17, 2014, 07:01:28 AM
Thanks Bullitt65, I think the "B" Gary is referring to is the B in PBT, not the "B" as in Blk Vinyl top, which, if I read it right, is what you are referring to.

Bulllitt, you will have to forgive me, but you left yourself open here and I am saving you from hearing it from Gary,lol: Your quote,"he wouldn't have paid a penny more for anything that didn't make the car go faster.". If going faster was his goal, I am surprised he didn't order H.O.?!...sorry,lol

Quarters:As far as a full quarter I agree with Gary I would repair the panel with repro metal, but if the damage is extensive enough to warrant the full panel, and you have a GM full quarter , I would replace with the full GM piece. Too late, I had them put on in 83. GM of course. I got another pair up in the rafters though.

In an earlier post, you stated: about my situation, that money did not seem too tight. Well, lets just say the sky's not the limit.
147  Camaro Research Group Discussion / General Discussion / Re: Nagging questions about parts and restoration direction on: February 16, 2014, 06:27:14 PM
Kolektor.
 #1. Are these early or late stamped NOS? It makes a difference. Even early stamped is no guarantee. Best bet is usually assembly line take offs even if they need work. You have the NOS fenders so mock those up. If they align very well, need no mods for a factory fit, and the edge and radii crispness are nice, those may be the good choice.  How much labor do you think you'll be giving a shop to make those 4 repro fenders fit if you sell one NOS fender, providing that NOS fender fits well? You say you are particular so be prepared to pay. What gaps do you want? Factory or better?
 
You are paying a shop, so all labor to make an imperfect panel fit is T&M. Even the best fitting GM panel is extra T&M if you want show gaps. Repro panel production varies and what's successful for one job or productiuon run may not be for another. Nobody I know makes a really nice quality, good fitting repro decklid; they run narrow. Find an original otherwise its back to T&M. Show gaps on decklids whether GM or not will require work. A shop is not going to know what labor is required to meet your objectives until they hang a panel on the car.

Stick to comparing Camaro sheetmental parts and dismiss all other makes and models; what applies to those has little to do with these. Your bodyshop should know all this. If they do not start looking for another one.

1) Not sure what constitutes early vs. late panel. I don't recall buying any panels or trim after getting married in '82 except a RH door skin.

1 cont) Particular yes, but do not let that translate to a rigid perfectionist (can't afford that and don't want a 1000 pt. trailer queen,-besides, car will never be that without #'s engine.). To clarify: I want things done factory correct (as practical). I have seen emblems misplaced, stripes wrong in size, color and position and Lord knows what else. If you know better,and I would like to think that is why we all are here, then, make it right. I do not need to have GM fan belts, but I am particular that the car has factory deep groove pulleys. This example is to show what you might find on a one owner or unmolested car. I don't want over restored, I want to drive the car. My hope is it would come out looking like a cleaned or degreased survivor that is rust free with new paint. Factory paint and fit is what I am after.
Hell, In 53 years, I've never had any of my old cars painted. I'm about ready to settle for a Krylon job. Now, how particular does that sound?lol
148  Camaro Research Group Discussion / Maintenance / Re: 68 350 engine - how to start on: February 16, 2014, 01:05:12 PM
Man, I don't even want to comment when I see all the precautions you guys suggest, 'cause I am just one practical country boy, hillbilly,if you will (a compliment,thank you=someone with smarts and common sense). I agree, all those things said are ok. I even prime new engines. But I have to tell you, my suggestion is simple, hook a battery to it. If it turns over, dump some gas in it. Put one of those light up things that tell if you have spark on a plug wire, and let er rip. It is either going to run or not. Once she fires off,look for oil pressure, it only takes a second or two for pressure, if none, shut er down and investigate. Sitting a long, long time? Pull the drain plug. If oil doesn't come fly'n out, pull the pan,cause it has turned to molasses thick sludge and I have seen that kill a motor more than once. Don't make it harder than it needs to be. I have gotten a lot, and I mean a LOT of antique engines, from tractors and cars, you name it, unstuck, resurrected, whatever. The oil in the cylinder is not bad idea, but I would crank it dry to try and blow all that crap out of the cylinder first before caking it up with sticky oil almost insuring it will get down around the rings. Course if its stuck(which you never mention) you gotta put something in the cylinders. In that case use 50/50 acetone and auto trans fluid. I admittedly am lazy and instead of pulling plugs and risk breaking off, I just pour it down carb...and I ain't talk'in gallons either that would give you a hydraulic lock and those "S" shaped rods. dump like a pint in,crank it over 2-3 X's, repeat. once it has run, heated up, then I might attempt to fight those plugs.
149  Camaro Research Group Discussion / Restoration / Re: Tulip Panel Complete on: February 16, 2014, 12:36:09 PM
Well in that case this weekend I cut the newly replaced "outer cowl panel" off.  I then proceeded to cruise the internet and my camaro parts catalogs for an "outer cowl panel or saddle bag" at Ricks/NPD/Heart Beat City...etc and all they stock are these cowl panel replacements that include the outer "tulip panel". This is just great! I cut the newly replaced panel off for no reason and now I have to order an "outer tulip panel" after all. My luck sometimes.

Point of my initial post was to show the replacement of the panel no matter what you want to call it, and to give some appreciation to my family for coming through for me big time.

I know what you mean by your family coming through for you big time, that is so great. My family came through for me big time too when I started messing with Camaros, Chevelles, Big Blocks and the like at 17. They thought I needed an attitude adjustment and sent me to Military School! And that's a fact jack!! Never, never will forgive them. Guess I live through my own little "Holocaust" . Why do you think I asked to be adopted dude.
150  Camaro Research Group Discussion / General Discussion / Re: Deep Freeze in N/E Ohio, too on: February 16, 2014, 12:30:39 PM
Jealousy rages!
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