Took these off of parts car recently. I know they are no good. I thought I would post pic as I have not seen one with writing on the back side. Pic is for the records(help document) and to see if I can confirm it is original. This was off the 1/4 and says, "A BAILEY PRODUCT". Oh yea, Jan. 69 Norwood car. Ed? Could use your wisdom now!

I was checking TDC by lining the line in the balancer with the "0" mark on the timing cover. Isn't that it? Danny

 

Danny, The advice given to checking TDC referred to checking TRUE TDC as the mark on timing cover may be off for various reasons. True TDC is checked with a dial indicator. The indicator plunger is set on the top surface of #1 piston at or near the top of the bore. rotate (slowly) until highest reading on guage is determined. Stop at this point and then you can see if the line on the balancer lines up with T.cover. There is a positive stop method also that involves some calculations to arrive at TDC.(gets a little wordy to explain). Can True TDC be determined without pulling the head?  Yes. You will need a long plunger to reach through spark plug hole. I have also taken spring off intake valve (make sure piston is close to TDC so valve does not fall down in cyl.). Gentley tap on top of stem to seat valve on piston (in case of carbon fluff) and set indicator plunger on top of valve stem. I am not too fond of unseating keepers and prefer the s. p. hole method. The positive stop is similar and involves inserting something in s.p. hole that prevents piston from reaching TDC. The crank is turned both directions and noted where the engine stops (locks up due to interference). If degree wheel or timing tape is not available, merely use the straight top edge of timing tab and make a line across balancer in each direction. determine mid-point between these 2 lines and mark it. Line it up with top edge you used to make other 2 marks and compare balancer TDC mark with t. tab mark. Make adjustments to insure TDC marks line up as needed but do not move crank position. This may involve bumping timing tab side to side with a small Ford tool (hammer) or repainting a correct line (thin and accurate please). If all else fails...fly me out there and in 15 minutes we will be done.

That's easy ,

post your pics on photobucket, there copy the img tag and past that into the message you wanna send.

CamaroSas-Congrats and welcome! Seems all new members (including myself when new to site) have a learnining curve to overcome in posting pics. It will just be a matter of time, short time I hope, as we all are interested and curious to see BSMIT59's finds.

C=Pi x Diameter. Diameter for a 302 is 8 in (I believe). So, 8 x 3.14 (pi) = Circumfrence or 25.12 in. Divide by 4 (segments of a 1/4)=6.28. every 6.28 in. (6 and 5/16 approx. in. (exact would be 9/32) ) make a mark. This will give you 4 equal  spots around balancer. firing order 18436572. starting with 1 or LH 1st cyl and at TDC with both valves closed adjust. Turn Clock wise to next mark do #8 and so-forth. 2 revolutions does all 8.

Real nice car! Love the combination of BITD and original. Best of both worlds (except to a purist). Even better that it belongs to a fellow CRGer. Thanks Bill and Larry.

Another thing if this is the body broadcast, there's a very real possibility that the Chassis broadcast is still above the gas tank, correct?

Norwood car? Doubtful.

Geez, you should get in contact with KERR he needs a roof and a lot of other panels, if you don't have a car that needs them maybe you could work something out with him

Actually, I did let him know I had a good roof if he wanted it, but he did not bite. It was 2 months ago when I got the car, maybe he will change his mind.

Just saw that last night and thought about posting too. I see a lot of non-Camaro stuff I would like to drag home.

  I would probably cut it at the bottom of the A-pillars save the complete A-pillar, Then at the rear I would cut it at the bottom of the sail panel..... The filler panel isnt rusted out where the back window sits ?

Filler is not rusted out! Hard to believe, that is why I am saving it. I would like a more descriptive cut area on the inside sail area. I am thinking along the seam where the bottom of sail snaps in and the painted sill aera meet. I already cut the pillars in front.

Thanks, Yup, same as mine! I degrimed mine and rebuilt it myself to keep that aged look.

I got a parts car a few months back. I am wanting to save EVERYTHING that is usable. Where do I cut the sail panel on the inside lower to save a very nice roof? I am wanting to keep brace support that goes to outer wheel houses. Would like to keep inner 1/4 window metal. Filler panel is good too. 1/4s, trunk floor, tail panel,LH frame rail are junk. Rear seat braces and wheel houses are rusted as well as floor. Already cut firewall cowl area off. Thanks CRG.

Darrell, can you show a straight on shot of the fan? Is it a "hook" type fan? My 8L9 837 is original and does not have a hook fan, Just wondering. Some say it must have, I disagree.

My 2 cents. Reading OP posts, a couple of things I will comment. 1st: Will value be different from converting a 6 vs.v8. You may never get an answer because what matters to one does not to another. A well done 6cyl. to 396, to me, trumps a hacked up sick running small block in a orig. v8 car. The car looked pretty nice and may be just the ticket for YOU and that leads to the 2nd comment. I think you have to do some soul searching and ask yourself what it is you really want. Now, you gave a hint stating you are not real mechanical and want something you can enjoy right away. If you really want an original Muscle car, like an SS or Z it may be ok to "cut your teeth" on a car like this, but you will never be totally satisfied because you will know it is a clone. If that is not the case you will still need to be honest with yourself and set a parameter of what you are after. Some like plain jane original survivor, some want a street beast, some want a convert. Some want RS package. Point is don't just settle for what you can afford. Make a list of what is important to you. As far as value, some find pro-touring cars appealing, but I would walk right by one to check out a "survivor" car. Beauty is in the eye of the beholder and value can be very subjective. Most all would agree that documented high horse with orig. drivetrain hold their value and are considered investment grade cars. A lot of us desire such and the ones who have them are fortunate. A lot here also realize that such cars are pricey and not in the price range. But if that is what you really want, I would search. There is always a good buy out there so don't get discouraged and get exactly what you are after, then you you will be happy regardless of the percieved value. With your admitted lack of knowledge, I would find a member here that is close and have them evaluate the work and help with your purchase.

Richard, apparently, B-J knows quality when they see it and I am sure it was not a fluke that your car was chosen. Congrats!

yes that would be it!  told ya dumb question.     most of mine is fine except where the wind shiled was mounted at the bottom.   The glass is still in the car but its missing a lot of that metal where the bottom of the glass touches it.  I guess the silicone didnt hold up and it rusted out.   Whats odd is the rest of its fine,  the front where the wiper motor mounts,  and the inside where the wiper arms are is fine too..   

guess ill ad that to the list of parts lol...

Thanks!   

KERR, what you will need is the dash top repair panel like this: http://www.classicdiscountparts.com/products.php?product=1969-Camaro-Dash-Panel-Steel   this part is welded over the the upper firewall and is what the bottom of windshield seals against. This is a common rust prone area on these cars.