Topics

16

General Discussion / HBC warning. Not Made in the USA

« on: March 30, 2016, 01:00:33 PM »

Normally I don't say much about vendors unless they go above and beyond. HBC advertises "Made in the USA" on their premium gas tank EGP-1003. I called and they said it was the Spectra tank I was looking for. It was a pretty good sale, so I drove up to Shelbyville to pick it up. I could have gotten it from Rock Auto for a couple dollars less, but I like to shop the brick and mortar when I can. Normally they ask $152.26 for the $100 tank. It was on sale for 9% off, so $138.75. Then they have their 20% off sale right now. $111.00. When I get there, Jim tries to screw me out of the sale price and tells me it's still a great deal because it's Made in the USA. He was trying to charge me 20% off the full price saying normally it isn't a discount item. Luckily I put a bunch of things in my cart on line as a shopping list and brought the print out with me. He didn't care. Luckily someone else rang it up and I was able to argue it and got it for $111.00. I should have left it, but it was a long drive.
To top it all off, I got it home and even though all the HBC stickers on the box say "Made in the USA", it says, "Made in Canada" inside all over the tank. No disrespect to Canada here, but when I am told it is Made in the USA, it had damn well better be. No response to my email questioning this... Still advertised on the website with USA made.

17

General Discussion / ET wheels on 69

« on: March 25, 2016, 01:33:56 AM »

I'm getting ready to clean up my ET IV wheels. I've always had plastic push in from the front style center caps. I wanted to go with more secure and metal push in from the rear type, so I picked up some original caps. They're 3.22" like they're supposed to be, but they seem to be a pretty tight fit. Anyone else running them that can tell me about their caps and how they fit? Here is one of mine.

Thanks.

18

Originality / 69 big block 1108418 starter

« on: March 15, 2016, 01:37:34 AM »

Can you guys tell me about my starter. Does everything look right? Cast iron nose cone etc? I pulled it apart tonight and its missing a brush. I want to r&r it with new bushings, brushes and whatever else it might need.
If you see anything out of whack, don't be shy!

19

Originality / 69 BB Power Steering Reservoir replacement

« on: March 10, 2016, 03:27:43 PM »

Is the OER reservoir the only/best option for replacing a PS reservoir currently? Anything negative about it?

http://www.classicindustries.com/product/camaro/parts/7806439.html

Thanks.

20

Originality / 69 BB Power Steering Pump & Hoses. Correct or not.

« on: March 08, 2016, 01:20:49 PM »

I thought for sure my ps pump and hoses were original, but after looking at Bentley’s PS hoses I'm not so sure. His is a relatively early car. Are all 69s bent the same? Specifically the large almost u-bolt shaped part. I’m trying to give “Spooky” some good feedback on his hose covers that he sent me so I want to confirm my pump etc is correct.
The tube coming off the back of the pump doesn’t look quite right to me. Correct, early/late thing or just not correct?
Any pictures out there with detail like mine of correct PS pumps and brackets for a big block 69? I was having a hard time finding any that were confirmed correct.

Thanks.

21

Restoration / Door to Rocker alignment. End of adjustment.

« on: February 08, 2016, 04:52:06 PM »

A while back I posted about my rocker to door gap at the front bottom PS. I’m having problems lining up the front of the door with the front of the rocker.
I have born with doors and the rockers are mint 69 transplants. All the measurements match PS to DS from the quarters forward, but I still need to move the PS door another 1/8” forward to line up the rocker to the front of the door. The doors measure out “perfect” also. I thought the PS door was off, but I was wrong.
It looks like my lower hinge mount plate is at the end of its adjustment. I think if I carefully opened up the hole slightly it would give me the adjustment I need. Any reason I wouldn’t want to do this? I hate to do it, but the only alternative I can see is moving the A-Pillar forward which I'm not doing...
Here’s what I’m talking about:

22

General Discussion / Road trips and towing

« on: February 04, 2016, 07:52:47 PM »

Who's done any serious towing with their Camaros over the years? Got any pictures? I crack up when I think about how much I did it with my 84 Z28 and 93 Z28. I drove from Mass to SoCal (Camp Pendleton) and back, Mass to Florida and back a few times.
The funny thing is, I still have that trailer that a girl in welding shop welded up for me 25+ years ago. Made out of a pop up trailer suspension. Made it a tilt and everything.

Somewhere in Texas or New Mexico.



I towed this jetski and my Harley back from Cali.

23

Decoding/Numbers / Hurst Shifter ID / Date Code

« on: January 25, 2016, 03:05:35 PM »

I thought I knew how to de-code the date on Hurst shifters, but this one has me thinking... This shifter came on a 73 Z28 M21 that I picked up a few years back. The shifter shaft is coded 0080 which comes back as a 79 Trans Am. With that in mind, what would you say the date code is? I can only come up with March of 71, but it doesn't seem right. Normally that would be 31 wouldn't it? This could definitely be a Frankenstein shifter, but I don't know. Here's a couple shots:

 

24

General Discussion / 69 Camaro SB factory shift rods

« on: January 06, 2016, 07:52:01 PM »

I'm tossing around the idea of throwing these up for sale. What's a fair price these days where I'm not giving them away, but I'm also not taking advantage of someone? I almost forgot, they're for a Z28 and they're super rare!

Thanks.

25

Restoration / Outer Fuzzies 2015...

« on: December 28, 2015, 06:08:56 PM »

I have a set of NOS outer rear quarter window fuzzies for my car, but I still need the ones for the doors. I don't have a spare $500 for NOS so I'm going A/M. Can you buy just the door outer fuzzies or do you have to buy the 4 pc kit? All the websites are terrible for their descriptions of the fuzzies and they don't have clear pictures. I need the ones like GM p/n 7729998.
I've narrowed it down to either Re-Pops or PUI and I'm leaning towards PUI. It looks like I came up with a p/n 0235-10 from Jegs and p/n C-10710-22A from NPD. They appear to be the same 4 piece set, but it's hard to tell and I'd rather order these once...
Any current thoughts on outer door fuzzies? I know all the older threads have complaints about the lack of rounded chrome and thin fuzzy material.

26

Originality / 69 Vinyl Top Windshield Trim Molding Reveal Retainer Clips

« on: November 23, 2015, 06:04:46 PM »

After looking around for info on replacement clips for the front windshield molding, I saw one post where someone mentioned they thought there was a difference between a painted roof coupe and a vinyl top roof coupe. I knew mine were different and didn't appear to have ever been removed. Original vinyl top and original date coded glass along with good condition trim... Anyone know the reason for the difference? It seems like the regular clips could cover the added thickness of the vinyl.
 I'm posting this so someone can find the information a lot easier. If someone sees something off in my information here, let me know. There is a misprint or omission in the AMK catalog page 160, but it's listed correctly on page 338 under p/n: G-6552. The clips listed for Camaro Fr & Rr 70-75 are also for vinyl top 69s (possibly other years as well). I confirmed w/ AMK that their p/n G-6552 and B-10707 are the same.

Painted roof front windshield side and top clips. GM p/n: 9895598 & AMK #s B-10059 (8 pcs), B-10894 (22 pcs) & G-4639

Vinyl Top front windshield side and top clips. GM p/n: 8717859, 9854717 or 9606232 & AMK #s B-10707 (10 pcs), B-10892 (22 pcs) & G-6552

Rear Window. GM p/n: 7698976 or 8736591. AMK #s B-10386 (10 pcs), B10706 (20 pcs) or G-6539

Front Lower. GM p/n: 1651460 or 7663148. AMK #s B-10711 (4 pcs) or G-4665

27

General Discussion / 396/402 Need some thoughts... internals pic heavy

« on: November 20, 2015, 04:56:29 PM »

So I have this "running" 396 that I picked up back east last summer. It's the original 300 hp 402 out of a 71 SS396 Chevelle that I plan on running in place of my born with motor that I'm storing away. Of course once I cracked it open to assess things, I found it obviously wasn't running in a long time....
When I say "budget build" I mean this engine will probably make engine guys cry when I get it back together... I know I can buy a 454 etc. I have what I have and I'm going to make the best of it. Help with doing that will be appreciated.
 I'd like to get away with new bearings, rings, cam & lifters. I might replace the valves too. There was some damage to one. I'm planning on honing the block myself. This is just going to be a runner for a while. I know it won't be a rocket... I can't afford to "build" this motor right now, so I just want to fix it and maybe cam it. Any recommendations to bump up the hp & torque without head & piston work?
It's a std crank, bore and the factory cam. Can someone confirm that the pistons are the factory 8.5:1 that came with it? They aren't exactly flat top, but I think they're just the standard factory pistons.
Someone has been in the motor before. The oil pump was brazed and all the rods & caps have been marked with cylinder numbers. It has a Cloyes double roller timing chain that appears to be in good condition and 14 of the push rods are Melling MPR-44 & 44a. Two look factory. I'll buy two new push rods... I suspect this has something to do with the valve retainer damage. What do you think could have caused that? See the pic below.

Heads: 3993820 113cc open chamber oval port 2.06 intake 1.72 ex
Crank:3904815NF Standard grind
Cam: factory
Standard Bore block

So my questions are:
 1. Are these pistons factory or bumped up compression?
 2. What do I need for bearings? Everything is standard. Can I just ordered standard bearings or are there options?
 3. Same question with rings.



Damaged Retainer:

28

Decoding/Numbers / 69 BB Radiator 3017838

« on: November 12, 2015, 08:04:40 PM »

I could use a hand decoding this radiator that I have. The number comes back as correct for a 69 Camaro Big Block auto and it fits correctly, but after that the codes have me at a loss... Thanks for any help.

Radiator 3017838 (also 74K on the part # tag)
Tag Code "S"

29

Site Comments/Discussion / "Forbiden" on LTE

« on: October 31, 2015, 12:24:35 PM »

Any idea why CRG works well on my phone while connected to wifi, but I get a white screen with "forbidden" on it when I try to connect via LTE?

Thanks.

30

Originality / Vinyl Top Trim Rivet Studs & Factory Screws (maybe more to it?)

« on: October 27, 2015, 02:09:56 PM »

I've always said that the screws used in the vinyl top trim instead of the weld on studs were just line repairs for broken studs. I think there might be more to it. I'm getting ready to weld the studs on my roof and window sills so I'll be ready when I paint it. While I was laying out the cut panels I saved for marking the locations, I noticed the screw in studs were located in exactly the same places on either side. Seems like a pretty big coincidence. Anyone know of a real reason for using the screw in studs other than the usual line repair theory? Maybe a locator point for a welding template/fixture? I doubt they free handed welding these so they would have had to locate the weld points somehow.

Upper Qtr Pass Side:

 

Upper Qtr Driver Side:



Front hole pass side:



Front hole driver side:



Rear Trim factory hole for bolt in stud PS:



Rear Trim factory hole for bolt in stud DS: