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Messages - cook_dw

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Decoding/Numbers / Re: LOS Special Paint Cowl Tag
« on: September 07, 2013, 01:54:29 AM »
I thought the orange from the factory was from the GM truck fleet line .?.  It's that what Dana used?

Restoration / Re: 1969 Amp gauge problem
« on: September 07, 2013, 01:20:38 AM »
Sounds like a neg & pos are swapped.  Or a ground not connected.

Decoding/Numbers / Re: 68 NOR build sheet
« on: September 06, 2013, 04:00:01 PM »
I have not heard of any being found.  If there were to be found I would look under all seats between  the springs or even under the carpet. 

Off topic sort of but went to a local pull-a-part & they had a 68 barracuda & under the back seat was the build sheet..  So you never know.

General Discussion / Re: real tag?
« on: September 06, 2013, 03:49:51 PM »
I give the seller credit for discolsing it is a restamped motor and his careful use of words like 'correct' vs. original.
The tag looks like it was stamped on the same machine for not only the vehicle specific codes, but the 'blank' tag info as well (ST TR....)
It is a nice looking car though. Is the drive shaft optional?  ;)


Yeah I didn't read any of the salesman lingo just glanced over the pics once at work.  Good eye on the missing driveshaft.

12A build week and an X33 trim code (plus a bunch of other tag issues) equal a repro tag.
so what was the first known week for X codes? (jerrys book says the first week of december of 68)

General Discussion / Re: real tag?
« on: September 06, 2013, 12:07:55 PM »
05-11 date for a 12A trim tag..

The list could go on for days....

Originality / Re: Astro Ventilation Window Markings
« on: September 03, 2013, 08:18:12 PM »
Correct me if I am wrong but wasnt the Astro glass just for a few months in 68 and then done?  I have never heard of a 69 having the glass.  Not saying it isnt possible.  Heck I have only seen a hand full of 68's with it..  Two of them were previously owned..

General Discussion / Re: 1111499 Distributor Question??
« on: September 03, 2013, 08:00:31 PM »
I really don't know much about micrometers but on the body it is the difference between 3.815 (know original) and 3.813 my 1111499. That would be a difference of .002

The cap area is 3.800 (known original) and 3.797 my 1111499. That would be a difference of .003

That seems like an incredibly close measurement to me. Could this small amount be evidence that the distributor has been turned down?


The numbers stamped into the body are deeper than 0.003"..  Ill be the first to admit I was wrong and it looks like the data doesnt lie.  This just goes to show that the some of these are very hard to decide if they are real or bogus.  Congrats on having a real one and I would feel confident in buying it if I was looking for one.  Also that couple of thou difference could have been from the polishing..

Restoration / Re: rear brake/fuel line removal
« on: September 01, 2013, 04:13:19 AM »
I appreciate the compliment.   Just like many here wanting to learn & share the knowledge.   ;D

Restoration / Re: rear brake/fuel line removal
« on: September 01, 2013, 03:08:34 AM »
Once you get all the clips loose on the fuel line (especially if you are on the lift) you can swing the line down in the back and snake the front of the line back out through the area of the firewall and subframe.  As they say, six of one; half a dozen of the other.

BTW I was a little  ??? when I saw the "Cook DW  ???"  Wasnt sure if I had posted about this previously or what..  lol

General Discussion / Re: 1111499 Distributor Question??
« on: September 01, 2013, 02:56:22 AM »
I think I am going to have to retract my previous statement.  Steve makes several very good points.  What was throwing me off was the stamp itself..  The polishing of the area didnt concern me.  Distributors are one of those parts that are extremely hard to decide on..

I edited my previous post to coincide..

General Discussion / Re: 1111499 Distributor Question??
« on: September 01, 2013, 01:42:49 AM »


Im on the fence...

Decoding/Numbers / Re: distributors - what do you think?
« on: September 01, 2013, 01:39:19 AM »
They all look legit to me.  Might want to wait on one of the experts to chime.

Restoration / Re: rear brake/fuel line removal
« on: September 01, 2013, 01:36:10 AM »
I'm 99% sure of the answer but I am putting it out there anyway, do I have to wait to drop the subframe before removing the fuel and rear brake line ? They are OE and I don't want to #$%^ them up ! I am to the point of being sick of removing .040 of undercoating ,rustoleum , factory overspray etc... I am down to using a brass toothbrush with laq. thinner so almost there. Upside ,gorgeous !   Cook DW ???

Race cars are a whole lot easier than restoration !!

Are you are wanting to remove your brake & fuel lines before you remove the subframe?  Answer is yes.  Or are you wanting to remove the subframe before removing brake & fuel lines?  Answer is yes..  I have done it both ways..  Much easier without the engine in so you can make sure the lines do not get hung on anything.

Idk about anyone else but if its a restamp it's a dang good one..  Idk need to see the casting # & date to know 100% but as far as I can tell it looks good to me.. ???  Only thing I would question would be the "6"..  But again still looks ok..

Restoration / Re: Sound Dampening
« on: August 31, 2013, 02:15:10 AM »
Use a wooden roller when applying.  Helps to use a heat gun when rolling too..  As long as moisture isn't there when applied moisture will not get between it & the metal.  If you are that concerned about moisture then use an etching primer before applying.  I just wiped the surfaces down with xylene & let dry then applied..  I also let mine sit in the sun for several hrs to make sure the tar stuck to the metal.

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