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Messages - cook_dw

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General Discussion / Re: motor mounts
« on: May 17, 2018, 02:40:15 PM »
I agree Jon...    Team Camaro is more suited to 'aftermarket updates'...   CRG should stay true to it's purpose and function!

I think CRG does stay true..  Next you will want to build a wall around CRG..  Nothing wrong with having diversity..  lol  sorry that was a political joke and I couldn't help myself.. 

Team Camaro.?.  Do people still go there?

General Discussion / Re: motor mounts
« on: May 17, 2018, 02:06:20 PM »
The timing chain I used is the single link type so as to keep in-sync to type used back then, though it is not nylon covered (was the BB nylon too?)


Yes it was.  Green car had a nylon in it until it stripped out at 50K miles and killed all 8 exhaust valves.  That was in the early 80's.  I still remember dad pulling the heads in the driveway and me fetching sockets, ratchets & wrenches.

As for the comments on the safety and correctness this can be a slippery slope for many.  I am in a different group than the 2 sides forming and I think many will agree that as long as it is not seen once the restoration is complete I do not see an issue with upgrading internal comments.  That goes for engine, trans, diff and hell even the radio..   

General Discussion / Re: My new project....
« on: May 17, 2018, 12:17:53 PM »
Since you brought up another white Z...

Looks like original paint and the tag is legit but just seems heavy with the white on the underside for a NOR car..

General Discussion / Re: Holley Carb Leak?
« on: May 15, 2018, 02:16:56 PM »
I can't say for certain but you can pull the baseplate off and verify by looking for the valve.  I am pretty sure all carbs built now have them but I would still double check for piece of mind.  Waiting on Holley for a response may take a while FWIW.  They also offer a kit to install the valve into older carbs as well.

Image pulled from Google search.

Holley 125-500

General Discussion / Re: Holley Carb Leak?
« on: May 15, 2018, 12:54:18 PM »
Some carbs have it some don't.  Just depends on how its circuited..  But for this discussion the 4053 has the check ball and is needed to work correctly as per how it was engineered.


I have posted this before and is a good starting point in understanding how a Holley works..  There are more detailed articles out there but this one is good.

General Discussion / Re: Holley Carb Leak?
« on: May 15, 2018, 12:13:16 PM »
Secondary diaphragm check ball

Check ball is used to limit the amount of air the diaphragm sees and allows a more progressive opening of the secondaries.  If the check ball was left out it would not cause the issue that Danny was having.  Diaphragm still holds the secondaries in closed position through the use of the spring.  It requires velocity of air traveling across the venturi in order for the diaphragm & secondaries to work.  Simply revving the engine does not create the amount velocity for the secondaries to open unless to go WOT and even then it is very minimal.  Most than likely the pv was the issue in this case.

General Discussion / Re: Plans for your camaro?
« on: May 15, 2018, 02:47:54 AM »
Looking good..  gonna be a really nice Z once finished.

General Discussion / Re: Holley Carb Leak?
« on: May 15, 2018, 02:18:46 AM »

Im not gonna get in a pissing match but you do not know what you are talking about.

Good luck and I hope you get it figured out Danny..

As for the liquid filled gauge you are comparing stock eliminator racers to average enthusiasts.. I will stand behind my statement when heat isn't an issue.  Racing is a completely different scenario and I am aware of both.

General Discussion / Re: Holley Carb Leak?
« on: May 15, 2018, 01:27:32 AM »
FYI if the shafts were worn then it would be a vacuum leak..  Has nothing to do with fuel being pulled into the venturi. More so the lack of fuel being pulled in..  Also Secondary shafts very rarely wear like the primaries..  Also nothing wrong with liquid filled gauge as long as heat isn't involved with the accuracy..

General Discussion / Re: Holley Carb Leak?
« on: May 15, 2018, 12:20:45 AM »
Guys the issue is with the secondary side unless I am completely wrong with what Danny is describing.  On a 4053 there is no accelerator pump & no squirter on the secondaries.  Replace the needle and seat, reset the float level, replace the pv along with gasket.  Report back and I bet the issue will be resolved assuming the secondary throttle blades haven't been adjusted correctly.  Also the check ball is for the secondary diaphragm pod.  No offense Danny but when you started having issues you should have either pulled the carb for someone to inspect or reached out to someone to come help you with the diagnosis..  There is some mis-identifying of part names causing an issue of people trying to help solve the your problem.  Holley carbs are one of the most basic carbs on the market and also one of the easiest to tune. 

Also while we are at it on the primary accelerator pump adjustment.  At WOT you should have 0.015" additional travel on the arm.  That is just as important as having instant pressure applied by the arm to the diaphragm vs just touching the diaphragm. 

General Discussion / Re: Holley Carb Leak?
« on: May 07, 2018, 05:16:20 PM »
I was under the impression this was a rebuild on a new setup.  Check your pv.  If it has failed then it will do what you describe. 

General Discussion / Re: Holley Carb Leak?
« on: May 07, 2018, 11:39:03 AM »
What size power valve was installed in the rear metering block?  By chance is there 2 gaskets under the power valve?  Assuming its a 4519 block.  Make sure the pv is still good also if correct size for your vacuum.

General Discussion / Re: 67 with wheel hop
« on: May 01, 2018, 05:58:21 PM »
Simply put.  YES...

 Caltracs are hands down the best traction additive for any leaf spring car.  BUT if you want a cheaper alternative then just a normal set of traction bars will do the trick.  I have/had Cal tracs on cars and they work.

Mild Modifications / Re: NOS Engine
« on: May 01, 2018, 02:11:06 AM »
The OCD in me would degree the cam anyways.  That way you know where it is and what you have at the given duration, centerline, LSA.  Degree wheels are cheap and handy.  But if you do not care about all the technical stuff then just slap it together and align the marks, verify TDC and the marks align on the timing gears and again on the timing tab and balancer.  Of course I also believe in adjustable timing sets so you can adjust the cam in relation to the rotating assembly.  I like tunability on how I want the engine to perform with a given cam.

A small tip would be to soak the timing chain in a zip-lock baggie of oil so the chain is having a dry start.  Helps against the initial chain stretch.


It also has other errors, which makes me wonder if it was an early mock up for advertising purposes.  But I'm not as experienced as most on here.

Bingo.  You can't use advertisement as a guide for assembly line correctness.  This has been echo'd many times here from William and several others.  Don't get me wrong it's very cool but not correct.

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