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104437 Posts in 12229 Topics by 4716 Members
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961  Camaro Research Group Discussion / Decoding/Numbers / Re: Subframe date stamping on: March 15, 2012, 12:12:15 PM
No date stamp, but here is a photo of the yellow mark on a 03B  LA car.


Is there an attachment missing?

Mike
962  Camaro Research Group Discussion / Decoding/Numbers / Re: Subframe date stamping on: March 14, 2012, 06:10:48 PM
 I never knew what this mark on my car was until I read this thread. Here is a picture of what remians of the stripe in front of the left front tire.
This is on my unrestrored 67 LOS 4B car.
963  Camaro Research Group Discussion / General Discussion / Re: Quality of restoration parts... on: March 14, 2012, 05:59:27 PM
 They may be pricey in some areas but their have great stuff. I found them by accident when I was looking to replace my radiator which had a big dent in the tank right on the Harrison name since I got the car decades ago. The previous owner must have crashed the battery into it. I really didn't want to spend over $1000 for a repo but when I found they sold just the repo Harrison tank side for a hell of a lot less than a whole unit, I jumped on it.

Mike
964  Camaro Research Group Discussion / Decoding/Numbers / Re: 67 CAMARO CALF TRIM TAG on: March 14, 2012, 06:17:25 AM
 Is there anything in the 4 section? What is date period (month number / week letter) stamped on the tag? It would be better to post a close up of the tag for a better analysis.

Mike
965  Camaro Research Group Discussion / Restoration / Re: paint color match on: March 13, 2012, 07:49:47 PM
What is considered "good" paint.  I've always thought of taking a shot at painting my car myself because the info I've read is the factory jobs weren't show jobs anyway.  I thought I wouldn't have much to lose, but I don't want to wast $1000 of paint either.
Hi '68Z,

Painting a car is 80% preparation and 20% application. OK…. putting the normally quoted cliché aside.
I found painting to be easy and I was fortunate enough to have an experienced friend show me how back in the 80’s and I picked it up fairly quick. I stopped painting in the late 90's for a while to raise the family, but I'm back now and enjoying it again.
 It's certainly an acquired art form and does take some talent and more importantly an understanding of what is going on when applying the paint so as to make adjustments on the fly if needed. Otherwise it can save you a lot of money if done correctly or cost you a lot of money if not. The talent part only you can answer.
 The cost of paint has gone up considerably most in part due to the price of oil. With primers running at $100/gal+ and paint costing several hundreds a gallon for the quality names, this certainly forces other issues to get the best usage out of it and doing it right.
Some are:
·         Use a HVLP setup to put more paint on the surface and less into the air. The requires to have a good match between the guns requirements and the compressor output and piping to avoid air starvation. The typical transfer efficiency numbers quoted are >65% for HVLP vs. >25% for the conventional high pressure siphon feeds. So here you can see with HVLP the more paint material on the car then the less wasted $$$$ and better air we all breath.
·   A good paint gun ($300 and up) with correctly sized nozzles. Don't use the cheap Chinese clones because they are inferior and the cheap price reflects it. I recommend a separate primer gun and base/clear gun. Others use 3 guns (primer, base, clear) while others use 1 gun. It's ones preference but for yourself 1 gun with different nozzle sets will work. Get acquainted with how your gun works and responds to setting changes and reading the paint being laid down.
·         A finish job is worthless if the air supply is contaminated with dust and oils. The cost of water/air and oil filters, a clean spraying area (easily done in a garage, BTW).
·         A properly matched air supply (includes compressor and properly sized and routed plumbing)
·         How to properly use polyester fillers and sanding techniques.
·       Metal work if body work is necessary. Hammers, files, etc…
·         Cost of primers, reducers, hardeners, paints, sand paper, air tools, welders (if needed), lighting, safety gear
 This is just the basic high points listed and I may have left out a couple. As you can see painting your own car requires a commitment and lots of $$$ up front. But if you are sure of your skills  and are handy then you can save thousands and when done you will have the pride to say you did it yourself. Painting is easy...the prep work is where most of the time is spent.There are a few very good on-line paint related sights. You Tube has many good video demonstrations too.
Oh yea…what is considered quality paint? Everyone will have different answers. I prefer to stick with the name brands and put the better paints on the car. If you plan on selling it a few years then use the cheap paint materials, otherwise for your pride and joy, go for the good stuff.

Mike

966  Camaro Research Group Discussion / Restoration / Re: Has anyone used this Trunk Spatter paint? on: March 13, 2012, 08:52:31 AM
I recently read (I forgot which group) that there is a difference between LOS and NOR trunk paint hues and texture. I haven't compared my two cars yet to see if that was the case but I figured I would let you know there is supposedly a difference.

Mike
967  Camaro Research Group Discussion / General Discussion / Re: 1969 Z/28 Cowl Tag, Weird looking on: March 12, 2012, 02:31:12 PM
Could it be a coating of some sort? Even what looks like a screw head for the right side rivet looks covered on the left edge.

Mike
968  Camaro Research Group Discussion / Restoration / Re: paint color match on: March 12, 2012, 02:23:26 PM
Hi Joe,

  I know you directed this to Kurt but I thought I'd reply because I am currently in the process of repainting my '67 ragtop using PPG Deltron DBC paints.
PPG still mixes to factory colors. I had no problems getting a butternut yellow color ordered this weekend.
I don't know if you checked prices lately but it is very expensive now.   Cry
Factor in around $1,000 minimum for paint and materials for a base/clear coat application.

Mike
969  Camaro Research Group Discussion / Originality / Re: 68 BBC Battery to Engine Ground Wire Location on: March 10, 2012, 09:39:03 AM
OK.  Thanks guys.  That is what we all thought.  But the BB water pump "kits" only have one stud/washer/nut.  That is for the alt. bracket, correct?  Or is the stud used for the ground and a normal bolt for the alt. bracket?  Or two studs???

My 67 L35's have a stud for the alternator bracket and one plated stud for the battery.

Mike
970  Camaro Research Group Discussion / Originality / Re: 68 BBC Battery to Engine Ground Wire Location on: March 09, 2012, 08:03:10 PM
If the 68 BB uses the same short pump as the 67 then the cable goes to the top passenger side pump stud followed by the star washer followed by the nut.
That is how is it on my original and also restored 67  L35 BB.

Mike

Sorry...I'm correcting my own reply. I checked and found the order is star washer, cable eye and then nut. Is that what '68 BB uses too?

Mike
971  Camaro Research Group Discussion / General Discussion / Re: Distributor Weights and Springs on: March 09, 2012, 11:20:15 AM
I have seen the springs modified and you can get stock aftermarket replacement springs with the correct rate.
What happened to the weights?

Mike

One spring broke and I got to looking and the weights have been ground on.  I was hoping to get a set of Delco weights and springs but I can't find any at the parts house.

Weights and springs haven't been available from GM for over 20 years; most guys who have Sun machines and rebuild distributors (like Jerry M.) have a stash of them. The weights in aftermarket "kits" aren't hardened, and they usually only have three generic types of springs. As Marty noted, used distributors are the best source of GM weights and springs.

 I wasn't implying that they can be had from GM. But with today's gas quality, low octane and the absence of lead, the stock spring rates are a moot point for driving so using a modified rate to change the curve profile will likely change the springs anyhow unless the intent is to have museum piece.

Mike
972  Camaro Research Group Discussion / Originality / Re: 68 BBC Battery to Engine Ground Wire Location on: March 09, 2012, 08:39:13 AM
 If the 68 BB uses the same short pump as the 67 then the cable goes to the top passenger side pump stud followed by the star washer followed by the nut.
That is how is it on my original and also restored 67  L35 BB.

Mike
973  Camaro Research Group Discussion / General Discussion / Re: Distributor Weights and Springs on: March 08, 2012, 05:17:35 PM
I have seen the springs modified and you can get stock aftermarket replacement springs with the correct rate.
What happened to the weights?

Mike
974  Camaro Research Group Discussion / Restoration / Re: 1968 big block engine on: March 08, 2012, 05:15:16 PM
Did all 68 BB's have chrome air cleaner lids?
I know in '67 some were black (my 2 325HP L35's are black) and the 375HP were chrome.

Mike
975  Camaro Research Group Discussion / Restoration / Re: 1969 Hood Hinge Color on: March 08, 2012, 09:54:26 AM
Found this product on the web, has anyone every used the Dri-Touch products from Birchwood Casey, thinking of doing my front end components?

http://www.birchwoodcasey.com/rust/index.htm

Mike

I have been using it since the mid 80's. It goes on wet and dries in a couple of days. I apply it with an artist brush and spend about an hour dabbing bolt heads and other parts including phosphated components. I used to apply it twice a year but have been slacking off due to other interests. So there have been parts not done in years and still look great (no oxidation) so the film must still be there. I highly recommend it.

Mike
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