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104949 Posts in 12263 Topics by 4727 Members
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871  Camaro Research Group Discussion / Maintenance / Re: Recommend a master cylinder rebuilder? on: May 26, 2012, 08:53:38 AM
Whitepost has some interesting cars there and looks like a top notch shop.
I received a separate email suggesting a place called Apple Hydraulics. I checked out their web site and leared they are only 10 miles from my house.
I stopped by there yesterday to drop off the master cylinder and got to speak to the folks there.
Anyhow, they will clean, glassbead and sleeve the cylinder at the cost of $95.
I'll be installing the rebuilding kit myself (including the rear drum line check valve)

Thanks for the reply!
Mike
872  Camaro Research Group Discussion / Restoration / Re: Restoring engine back to points: what's needed? on: May 24, 2012, 07:46:03 PM
 If you have the resistor wire intact and a stock type coil (2 wires), then it should work fine poviding the distributor is properly indexed.

Mike
873  Camaro Research Group Discussion / Maintenance / Recommend a master cylinder rebuilder? on: May 24, 2012, 07:29:31 PM
 It's time to get the master cylinder sleeved after 45 years of use.
Can anyone recommend a place that they have had good service with?

Thank you,
Mike
874  Camaro Research Group Discussion / Restoration / Re: Restoring engine back to points: what's needed? on: May 24, 2012, 05:49:19 PM
In addition to Big Iron's question, did you save the original resistor wire to be used with the stock distributor?

Mike
875  Camaro Research Group Discussion / Restoration / Re: Fisher Body Paint Shop on: May 23, 2012, 07:52:15 PM
here is two 69 , 1 lemans blue and other rally green




I know this is an old thread but in the process of re-restoring my 67 5B NOR ragtop and wanting to return the underbody to the correct finish method, I have been studying this topic in detail for a long time and have also read the 'Process Overview' article many times.  When I restored the car back in the mid 80's I scuff sanded and sprayed the under body semi gloss black for the clean look. I remember seeing yellow but I never kept record of how much.
 Now I want to undo that. No matter where in the undercarriage I sand I uncover the following layers (going from top layer to bare metal).....top layer-->  black (my paint from the 80's) --> butternut yellow (original body color and paint) --> red oxide primer layer--> what looks like a dark gray or black very thin layer (phosphate?) --> bare metal. There is no gray to be found underneath so far as reports suggest should be there and overspray over that.
  What stumps me is the whole bottom has a layer of butternut yellow including deep inside the tunnel at the top...as if the whole bottom was sprayed. I figured the robotic sprayers would hit the bottom edges mainly and not so much up and into the tunnel top.
 These pictures, especially the green example,  prove to me that it is possible to have an almost underbody color the same as the top coat. It may sound anal but I am so relieved to see this example and know it can happen. Smiley

Mike
876  Camaro Research Group Discussion / General Discussion / Re: Is this a Non-Console Automatic Floor shifter? on: May 21, 2012, 02:33:52 PM
Bob- no....I'm a '67 guy  Wink

Ed - Thanks for the link. Yea....it sure does look like a Mustang. But the Ebay link above looks more like the console shifter identification plate being it's a 2 piece design.

Interesting to see such a thing existed!

Mike
877  Camaro Research Group Discussion / General Discussion / Re: Is this a Non-Console Automatic Floor shifter? on: May 21, 2012, 01:22:01 PM
 So the ebay ad shows the shifter but the console plate shown was not used for cars with no console?
What was the means to show what gear the tranny was in?

Mike
878  Camaro Research Group Discussion / Originality / Re: What is the assembly line correct 68 Rochester 4-bbl carburetor choke pull-off? on: May 21, 2012, 12:16:10 PM
OK Both my carbs are Carter built Q-Jets so that might be where the difference comes in.

Did Carter built QJ's also have "RP" stamped pulloffs, I wonder?
Most of the parts on a Carter QJ don't have an RP stamped into them so I assumed that the pulloff didn't have it either.

Mike
879  Camaro Research Group Discussion / Restoration / Re: AMD Suframes - Quality, fitment, and finish ??? on: May 19, 2012, 11:03:56 AM
I'll find the exact article. It was either Hemmings Muscle Machines or Chevy High Performance I read earlier this year. It clearly mentioned inward chassis sag due to the design which can lead to adding more shims and it specifically referred to the repo replacement. I never thought that as a possibility until I read that and I never heard of AMD before that article so I went to the web site they posted to read more on the chassis. I was considering it for my hardtop when I restore that but decided to keep the original one out of nostalgic reasons.

Mike
880  Camaro Research Group Discussion / Restoration / Re: AMD Suframes - Quality, fitment, and finish ??? on: May 19, 2012, 07:37:00 AM
 AMD claims the chassis sags over time which accounts for the need to add more and more shims to the caster/camber. If that is true then wouldn't it sound logical that even though a used 40 years +GM chassis is available that you would still face the same sagging issues?
  Just a thought.

Mike
881  Camaro Research Group Discussion / General Discussion / Re: 68 Camaro TH400 oil pan on: May 18, 2012, 09:41:05 PM
 Unless other 68 owners here can verify this, I don't see that ad being accurate in stating for 67 Camaro.  My 67 4B L35 has the original TH400 and it does not have that pan.
Many times I have seen eBay sales to be misleading or wrong.

Mike
882  Camaro Research Group Discussion / Originality / Re: What is correct "grey tip" oil dipstick for 1968 small blocks? on: May 17, 2012, 02:31:03 PM
Give Pace Car Jeff a call. He has LOTS of dip sticks and is knowledgeable about them too.
I thought the dimples came later too.

Mike
883  Camaro Research Group Discussion / General Discussion / Re: Plastic bezel repair on: May 17, 2012, 02:28:59 PM
X2 on the JB weld. BUT, you must bevel the remaining plastic to create a wider (rough) surface for the epoxy to adhere to.  I just did a butt joint and used the JB to recreate the whole tab (was completely missing).  lasted about a year. it is on my list to redo and I think I am going to use some fiberglass window screening to reinforce the jbweld.

I've had very good results on plastics with using a screen support as described above.
JB is great epoxy. I use the JB cold weld on a 4" stress crack that I drilled stopped above a freeze out plug in my 396 block (apparently previous owner didn't use correct antifreeze levels) 25 years ago and it still is there and no leaks today.

Mike
884  Camaro Research Group Discussion / Restoration / Re: What type of sealer and filler to use on roof drip rails and roof line filler? on: May 16, 2012, 09:20:32 PM
  Sauron is right about not using any poly filler for an edge. I didn't follow through that portion of my answer and instead stayed focused on the sails in my reply.
One door edge I wound up grinding away almost 2/16th" near the top curve after installing a NOS fender in the 80's and having only a 1/16" gap and it wasn't linear. I then mig welded and finished grind and used a flat Sheffield steel file to reestablish a straight but rounded edge after all the door hinge alignments failed.

Mike
885  Camaro Research Group Discussion / Restoration / Re: What type of sealer and filler to use on roof drip rails and roof line filler? on: May 16, 2012, 07:53:55 PM
  When I said a few 1/16ths....I meant the thickness of the poly filler shouldn't exceed no more than 1/4". Thinner is always better.
Anything above that thickness and you risk paint film cracking and/or feather edge lifting due to the fillers thermo expansion and contraction coefficient when compared to sheet metal.
If applied correctly it will last the life of the car. If the sail areas and wheel opening welds have been done correctly then there should be no flex stresses which can lead to paint film failures so bondo will work fine.
The 'Bondo' today is actually a very good product. The Bondo made by 3M is more than adequate when applied correctly.

Mike
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