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826  Camaro Research Group Discussion / Decoding/Numbers / Re: 67 CAMARO CALF TRIM TAG on: March 18, 2012, 11:54:27 AM
Hi Tony,
   The casting dates look tight so that's a good sign. What are the head cast dates? Did you check the cast numbers as well to see if they are correct? So far everything looks good but it's fun to document the numbers. Per a UOIT (a document that is rare to find), that area of the plate where the engine code would be stamped is listed as the engine reinforcement assembly.
So, if Mark is correct with the traction bar plate installed vs. not installed, then that would make sense why yours doesn't have the code stamped.

So far,  based on what you have presented, it looks like the car is authentic. I guess other cars built with that power train combination would have to be sampled to make that a definite conclusion.
Do you have other documentation such as a POP?

Mike
827  Camaro Research Group Discussion / General Discussion / Re: American Icon: Muscle Car on: March 18, 2012, 09:05:01 AM
Ahh yes...the muscle car vs. pony car debate still lives!

I have got to get me one of those fan stickers  Wink

Interesting article though and thanks for sharing.

Mike
828  Camaro Research Group Discussion / Decoding/Numbers / Re: 67 CAMARO 12 BOLT CODE QS on: March 18, 2012, 08:26:42 AM
 Tony,
  You will also find this interesting as well:
http://www.camaros.org/radiusrod.shtml

Mike
829  Camaro Research Group Discussion / Decoding/Numbers / Re: 67 CAMARO CALF TRIM TAG on: March 18, 2012, 08:23:09 AM
 So the engine code shows it's a 350/295 L48/automatic and the rear shows it's a 12 bolt non-posi.
What is interesting is the trim tag is missing the 4P code.
Here is a quote from the CRG indo: "The 4P code was not used at the start of production at either the Van Nuys plant or the Norwood plant.
Van Nuys started using the 4P code on the SS350 cars in September, but Norwood didn't start using the 4P code until October. Early Van Nuys SS350 cars and Norwood SS350 cars built before October will not have the 4P code to verify that they are SS's
. "
 This is looking like you car is an exception to this finding being yours is mid June 67 (Kurt?). Then again, with a VIN sequence of 666 anything is possible  Cheesy

The engine assembly is March 23rd. Early for a June build but it is possible it sat that long.  Both my 67 BB's sat about 2 months before being installed.
If you can dig into the block casting dates and numbers (intake, block, distributor and even heads if you want to pull the covers) that would present a clearer picture of what you have.
The June 1st rear date range is good. Is there a rear factory traction bar on this car?
Per the CRG end of month VIN report, the160666 falls in the June period, which is good.

As you can see, a picture can show us a lot!

Mike
830  Camaro Research Group Discussion / General Discussion / Re: Engine chrome paint spray protection? on: March 17, 2012, 12:15:54 PM
That's interesting and sure makes sense.
On another note, if cans were used over the distributor then is it safe to assume that the hold down clamp and bolt were also covered in over spray?

Thanks John

Mike
831  Camaro Research Group Discussion / General Discussion / Re: Duplication of engine/trans/subframe installtion into body from below? on: March 17, 2012, 08:57:06 AM
 I did it with my restored convertible back in the 80's when I did a chassis off restoration. I measured the rocker heights before removing the chassis to get an approximation of the clearance height needed.  When I (well....we being a few guys) rolled the chassis back in as a restored assembly after the body was painted and chassis detailed, the body was supported by the rear wheels (acting pivot point) and each rocker supported with carpet lined 2x4's on hydraulic jacks situated mid-way and slightly above the clearance height measured before. The chassis rear was supported by a heavy duty Sears mechanics dolly to support the tranny side. I used a small section of steel pipe to act as the alignment pin before securing with the chassis rubber and bolts.

Mike
832  Camaro Research Group Discussion / General Discussion / Re: Cowl Grill Seal on: March 16, 2012, 06:53:47 PM
You have style Marty!
 That picture is hysterical  Cheesy Cheesy Cheesy
833  Camaro Research Group Discussion / General Discussion / Engine chrome paint spray protection? on: March 16, 2012, 01:20:01 PM
Just curious how a motor that was equipped with chrome valve covers were painted. I read coffee type cans were placed on the distributor, caps on hose nipples and tape (or magnet) on engine pads, but how were the chrome covers protected from overspray?

Thanks,
Mike
834  Camaro Research Group Discussion / Decoding/Numbers / Re: Subframe date stamping on: March 15, 2012, 04:35:51 PM
Quote

Yeah Mike I'm sorry I didn't "Quote" you so you would know. The pic shows up but on my monitor it's a little too big to fit so I have to scroll it over to see the paint stripe is what I meant.

That was strange. My IE browser at work didn't display the pic but now I see it at home.

Mike
835  Camaro Research Group Discussion / Decoding/Numbers / Re: Subframe date stamping on: March 15, 2012, 12:44:56 PM
Look at the bottom of the picture and slide it over. It's there.
Was this reply to me? I'll be darn if I see a picture mentioned in OG69Z's reply.  Huh

Mike
836  Camaro Research Group Discussion / Decoding/Numbers / Re: Subframe date stamping on: March 15, 2012, 12:12:15 PM
No date stamp, but here is a photo of the yellow mark on a 03B  LA car.


Is there an attachment missing?

Mike
837  Camaro Research Group Discussion / Decoding/Numbers / Re: Subframe date stamping on: March 14, 2012, 06:10:48 PM
 I never knew what this mark on my car was until I read this thread. Here is a picture of what remians of the stripe in front of the left front tire.
This is on my unrestrored 67 LOS 4B car.
838  Camaro Research Group Discussion / General Discussion / Re: Quality of restoration parts... on: March 14, 2012, 05:59:27 PM
 They may be pricey in some areas but their have great stuff. I found them by accident when I was looking to replace my radiator which had a big dent in the tank right on the Harrison name since I got the car decades ago. The previous owner must have crashed the battery into it. I really didn't want to spend over $1000 for a repo but when I found they sold just the repo Harrison tank side for a hell of a lot less than a whole unit, I jumped on it.

Mike
839  Camaro Research Group Discussion / Decoding/Numbers / Re: 67 CAMARO CALF TRIM TAG on: March 14, 2012, 06:17:25 AM
 Is there anything in the 4 section? What is date period (month number / week letter) stamped on the tag? It would be better to post a close up of the tag for a better analysis.

Mike
840  Camaro Research Group Discussion / Restoration / Re: paint color match on: March 13, 2012, 07:49:47 PM
What is considered "good" paint.  I've always thought of taking a shot at painting my car myself because the info I've read is the factory jobs weren't show jobs anyway.  I thought I wouldn't have much to lose, but I don't want to wast $1000 of paint either.
Hi '68Z,

Painting a car is 80% preparation and 20% application. OK…. putting the normally quoted cliché aside.
I found painting to be easy and I was fortunate enough to have an experienced friend show me how back in the 80’s and I picked it up fairly quick. I stopped painting in the late 90's for a while to raise the family, but I'm back now and enjoying it again.
 It's certainly an acquired art form and does take some talent and more importantly an understanding of what is going on when applying the paint so as to make adjustments on the fly if needed. Otherwise it can save you a lot of money if done correctly or cost you a lot of money if not. The talent part only you can answer.
 The cost of paint has gone up considerably most in part due to the price of oil. With primers running at $100/gal+ and paint costing several hundreds a gallon for the quality names, this certainly forces other issues to get the best usage out of it and doing it right.
Some are:
·         Use a HVLP setup to put more paint on the surface and less into the air. The requires to have a good match between the guns requirements and the compressor output and piping to avoid air starvation. The typical transfer efficiency numbers quoted are >65% for HVLP vs. >25% for the conventional high pressure siphon feeds. So here you can see with HVLP the more paint material on the car then the less wasted $$$$ and better air we all breath.
·   A good paint gun ($300 and up) with correctly sized nozzles. Don't use the cheap Chinese clones because they are inferior and the cheap price reflects it. I recommend a separate primer gun and base/clear gun. Others use 3 guns (primer, base, clear) while others use 1 gun. It's ones preference but for yourself 1 gun with different nozzle sets will work. Get acquainted with how your gun works and responds to setting changes and reading the paint being laid down.
·         A finish job is worthless if the air supply is contaminated with dust and oils. The cost of water/air and oil filters, a clean spraying area (easily done in a garage, BTW).
·         A properly matched air supply (includes compressor and properly sized and routed plumbing)
·         How to properly use polyester fillers and sanding techniques.
·       Metal work if body work is necessary. Hammers, files, etc…
·         Cost of primers, reducers, hardeners, paints, sand paper, air tools, welders (if needed), lighting, safety gear
 This is just the basic high points listed and I may have left out a couple. As you can see painting your own car requires a commitment and lots of $$$ up front. But if you are sure of your skills  and are handy then you can save thousands and when done you will have the pride to say you did it yourself. Painting is easy...the prep work is where most of the time is spent.There are a few very good on-line paint related sights. You Tube has many good video demonstrations too.
Oh yea…what is considered quality paint? Everyone will have different answers. I prefer to stick with the name brands and put the better paints on the car. If you plan on selling it a few years then use the cheap paint materials, otherwise for your pride and joy, go for the good stuff.

Mike

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