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106472 Posts in 12416 Topics by 4787 Members
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766  Camaro Research Group Discussion / General Discussion / Re: Official CRG Cap? on: November 09, 2012, 08:36:20 PM
I like the emblems the way you mocked them up on the shirt. But the Z/28 may overshadow the SS and RS, enough for guys to want "the SS on top". Thats why it may look better to have :

RS      Z/28    SS

Plus the SS guys will like the SS out front, I would think....

I agree. The Z should be in the center due to the slash so that would maintain some symmetry but CRG should be the most prominent size to display and the model designations smaller.

Mike
767  Camaro Research Group Discussion / Restoration / Re: Console bracket & U-joint on: November 08, 2012, 06:02:54 PM
Hi Chick,

  I just looked at the botton of the nut flange that was against the floor and it clearly shows it is dark phosphate. Also, the two 'U' nuts which have their original finish look like dark phosphate. Mine have flange nuts so maybe that was a '67 thing. The threaded shafts are natural. I say phosphate because it is stated here in CRG that black oxide was not the method of choice back then.

Hope this helps,
Mike
768  Orphans - documentation or VIN-stamped drivetrains - in search of the original cars / 1969 - Orphans / Re: 9N515365 V09I7DZ block on e-bay on: November 08, 2012, 03:21:03 PM
I was thinking restamp too since the deck looked to be surfaced, but if you look carefully at the 1st picture, you can see the broach marks. The close up doesn't show that.

Ed

  That close up of the deck looks sort of like one 67 I have in that it appears a slight decking was done because the raised edges on the stamped characters I often see on untouched pads look to be gone though some broach marks remain.
What is the odd looking octagon stamp?

Mike
769  Camaro Research Group Discussion / Originality / Re: Transmission crossmember bolts on: November 08, 2012, 02:34:20 PM
 I realize this topic is mainly '69 but for '67 the below picture shows a non-shoulder bolt taken from my survivor you may find of interest. This is on an L35/TH400 car.
It must have been fun installing these from the bottom up (unless they had shallow sockets) which llikely accounts for the type change in later years.

Mike
770  Camaro Research Group Discussion / Originality / Re: Transmission crossmember bolts on: November 08, 2012, 10:41:19 AM
 I meant more for head markings and not the style.
I would think there could be other manufacturers making the same style so the marking would be different.

Mike
771  Camaro Research Group Discussion / Restoration / Re: Console bracket & U-joint on: November 08, 2012, 08:27:57 AM
My 67 bracket was natural and was still pretty clean of oxidation. I used some steel wool to clean and sprayed it with a flat clear.
 Can't help with the yoke.

Mike
772  Camaro Research Group Discussion / Originality / Re: Transmission crossmember bolts on: November 08, 2012, 08:23:13 AM
 Why would these bolts be any different than so many others on the car as far as having different manufacturers markings?

Mike
773  Camaro Research Group Discussion / General Discussion / Re: Reproduction Muncie Shifters on: November 06, 2012, 11:23:21 AM
 Back in the day this may have been an issue if you were racing, but today we are driving pampered show cars so racing is not necessarily on the list anymore as far as shifter play is concerned (don't want to risk a blown drive train component).

I still have the original Muncie shifter and I found that as long as it is adjusted correctly and the rod unions are not worm out, it does shift good, though not as firm as a Hurst.
IMO I would stay with the original shifter unless it has major wear.

Mike
774  Camaro Research Group Discussion / Maintenance / Re: Best source for lower ball joint? on: November 05, 2012, 03:15:27 PM
 What I see more and more of is 'Made in the USA from imported parts'
Interesting reading of how a product can be labeled "Made in USA" can be found at:

http://money.cnn.com/2012/09/18/smallbusiness/made-in-usa-label/index.html

Sorry for being off topic slightly.

Mike
775  Camaro Research Group Discussion / Originality / Re: N66 wheel paint colors on: November 04, 2012, 10:18:22 AM
Those look exactly like the ones that came on a 69 Pontiac Grand Prix Model J I once owned.

Mike
776  Camaro Research Group Discussion / Restoration / Re: shackle bushings on: November 04, 2012, 08:48:50 AM
Hi Bill,

 Is the rubber frozen in the chassis hole preventing the bolt from being extracted?
If so then the chassis hole probably rusted and has expanded and locked the rubber in place. I had that happen and I used a torch on the bolt to soften the rubbers grip and extract the bolt then I was able to use a round ceramic tile cutting blade and cut through the rubbers to eventually free that up through a series of thin blade screw driver wedges.

Mike
777  Camaro Research Group Discussion / Restoration / Re: 67 and 68 Grill rivets on: November 03, 2012, 03:19:25 PM
I recently bought a MUCH cheaper hand rivet tool (53-82 Aero-Rivet Tool, P/N TL-165) from Zip-Corvette for $79.95.  Instead of being a squeeze tool, it has a nut that must be turned with a wrench or socket...a little extra work, but the price was right.  I haven't tried it out yet.  Here is the link:

http://www.zip-corvette.com/ProductDetails/ProductDetails.aspx?pid=%7B86BFFD2F-0D95-4337-A3A0-C839FEE65AB3%7D&gid=%7BC0DE519C-C18D-436D-B9FC-CC0064A2708A%7D&pname=53-82+Aero-Rivet+Tool&Referer=&Alias=&ptct=GL2-SR&CTitle=&

Bowtie68iho,

  I know this is an old thread but I am going to install a new grill soon and will need a tool to set the correct rivets. Before I bought one I wanted to ask how did this tool worked for you?
If it worked fine and you have no need for it anymore would you be willing to sell it?

Thanks,
Mike
778  Camaro Research Group Discussion / Originality / Re: 9204 brake booster on ebay on: November 03, 2012, 07:54:54 AM
 I have a 9204 that was restored in the 80's in my shed collecting dust and the fonts on that one are much larger (1/8" height characters)  than the ones in the picture latecode posted and the date is 334 (late 68), plus no Delco stamp. Interesting the one on eBay has a Julian date of 2 (early 69) and has such a small font. As for the Delco stamp, Steve at Brakeboosters said the '69's should have the Delco stamp on the front shell so the one I have may have had the front shell replaced when it was replated back then -or- two styles do exist. Mine looks like the eBay pic which has no Delco stamp either except larger fonts. The ad states 1/8" fonts but they look like 1/16" fonts. When I bought it in the 80's I didn't know or care about stampings and I traded an 8515 for it! If I had only known back then.....

Below are close up of the rear shell I have from a 9204.

Mike
779  Camaro Research Group Discussion / Restoration / Re: Are the any differances in sub frames? on: November 02, 2012, 08:44:39 PM
Can anyone suggest what tool to get to remove BB springs??? I found several coil spring compressors at sears website but they all seem a bit weak for BB springs...

Hi Joe,

  I highly recommend the OTC 7045B spring compressor. By design, it is impossible for the mechanics to unwind by itself when compressed (something an internal hook compressor does very easily and suddenly) and it uses a ball bearing thrust plate to make compressing very easy and smooth. I got mine on Amazon for $125. Yep, it costs more but after almost being killed by an internal hook compressor in the late 80's and then a few months back in 2012 having the internal hook type suddenly and violently uncompress with BB springs twice in the same day when removing them from the chassis, I figured my life was worth the extra $$$ and bought this to install them. It's in my tool box now and I will never use the other types again.

Mike
780  Camaro Research Group Discussion / General Discussion / Re: Metal Backs on 67 Bucket Seats on: November 02, 2012, 08:30:03 PM
Mike S >>>>>>,
  Mine had some minor dings in them too.  Luckily, I have a nephew who is the manager of a Body Shop, and a lot of patience.  He used, like a plastic punch, and a 6 in. long X 1 in. dia. Wood Dowel to "tap" them out.  Did a great job.


Hmmm...that is a good idea. I will ty the dowel method and see how it works.

Thanks for that idea!
Mike
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