I thought Fisher sprayed the trunk during the paint shop phase before going to Chevy.  

Mike

 I recently looked at the glass dates on my 67 NOR 5B car that has the original doors and quater glass and found the following:
L-QTR- April 67
R-QTR - Jan 67

L-Door - April 67
R-Door April 67

L-Vent - Dec 66
R-Vent - June 67 (this I did replace back in the early 80's)

Mike

 I had an old timer restore my SS trim around the rear conv. trunk lip back in the 80's. Metal restoration was his life long business. My trim had the same dings as yours and his methods for removing them were the pretty much the same. When I got them back, and if I didn't know better, I could swear there were store bought new.

Mike

 Looks 5 to me. I see KSFC (a current bolt mfg) with a line on each side.

Mike

Looks like a grade 5 (it was 3 lines)

Mike

What material did the factory use being the doors/trunk close normally?   
 
Mike

 Perfect timing with this thread. I was going to reach out too to CRG about this very subject and was wondering about how latex would work. I have the repo strips frmo the 80's and they are much harder rubber and I need to slam (trunk & doors) to get anything to close.
I'll try the latex now that I removed the repos during this recent restoration.

Thanks for the input.

Mike

 I'd certainly would want to see the VIN pad on the block and being the heads are off, a close up of the deck surface.
Did you guys notice the massive rip at the rear tunnel? The car must have thrown the drive shaft in its day.
Maybe the owner put in the mono rear for racing purposes. I know of a few who have done that to get a better wind up of the suspension.
Looks like a solid body though for its age.

Mike

Brandon,

  I'm a Dad too so if you still feel generous you are welcome to buy me a car....son 

Dad...I mean, Mike

Hi Nick,

  If the paint supplier by me was able to mix a gallon of DBC as recent as this past June after he called into whatever central office he was referring to to get the ratios, then why can't your local dealer do it?
Just curious, unless your local guy doesn't mix on-site.

Mike

 Well, I'll tell you what I am in the position of. I have a survivor 67 L35 I bought in 1980..original paint, original motor and drive train, spark plug wires dated 1972 (real, not repos), original glass, etc....

Just to name a few areas needing attention:

The windshield lamination has separated a lot around the edges
The trunk, header and roof top paint (all horizontal surfaces actually) has dried a lot, spider crazed, faded and some minor oxidation has started. No buffing will take this out.
A few very minor door dings that stand out being the car is a dark color.
Chassis surface oxidation in several areas
Rims need a repaint
Battery tray that is beyond rotted
Dinged and pitted fender well and RS rocker trims

   I have to draw a line somewhere when to stop worrying about being original once and restoring the whole car otherwise one can be displaying an original 'sh*tty' looking car. Sure, many like to see original paint, etc but for a very well preserved car, that is easy to do. But, like being original only once, I'm living a life only once so I want to do what I want to do and not necessarily what others say I should do. Looking at resale prices, I don't see enough true survivors to say that they really command the higher resale price. As with anything, a price of worth is what someone will pay for it and from what I have seen thus far people will pay good money for a well restored car vs. an original that is not at the same "pretty" level. I don't sell my cars anyhow but do want to drive them before passing them on to my kids.
  This is just me and my opinion and I have struggled a lot with the decision of "to restore, or not to restore" but each time I look at the dead paint and oxidation that is starting, I don't want to let rust take over for the sake of being original.

Mike

 Hi Chick,

  As for the Marsden lock nuts, what did you use for that? All those I have ever seen for replacements were zinc plated instead of phosphate. Unless in '69 they were no longer zinc?

Thanks again,
Mike

Chick,
 Is that black phosphate on the original bolt?

Thanks,
Mike

Quote from the seller; The engine block had to be decked because of a mechanical issue and the engine code and vin were re-stamped on the block just as it came from the factory.

So what’s the deal with this engine guys? The sellers quote states the engine was re-stamped after the fact…re-stamped as it came from the factory. I had assumed this car was legit and I’m beginning to think otherwise. Is it or is it not a re-stamped block from the factory? Anything about this car in CRG’s archives’? If not, I'll have to side with Daniel on this one...

  

Here is how I interpreted it after reading it once....
The engine block had to be decked because of a mechanical issue... as it states to fix a problem. I don't believe it means at the factory because there is no way for us to know what happened back then to this block, if anything.
...and the engine code and vin were re-stamped on the block just as it came from the factory this clearly tells me the stamps are redone to be what the factory fonts looked like and correct codes. I admire the seller for being up front with this info. Gents; IMHO think too much is being read into this description.

 Personally if I had $50K to spend and I wanted a Z but could not afford the high price of one with the original engine (and tranny) and it had a correct period dated block and other parts and properly restamped and the car itself was real, then I would pay the lower fair price for that. To me, it's not to cheat the nexy guy because I don't resell my cars and if I did I would make it clear the block was restored including the stamps because I know the legal ramifications that can happen otherwise. Why would I accept a restamped? We all have our own reasons but for me It would be my attempt to own a piece of history restored a close to as it existed back then (may as roll in the overspray, dated plug wires, glass hose clamps...etc). That's just me.

Mike

  That's interesting. I had a gallon of DBC butternut yellow mixed at my PPG dealer (Albert Kemperle) in June. I'm using the Deltron line for my entire paint job.
The sales guy said he had to make a call to their 'librarian' (if memory servers me correct, that was the name he stated) to get the mixing ratios for that color in DBC.
It's not applied to the car yet but I put a dab of paint on the car and it looks exact. Cost was $337 for the gallon.

Mike