Hi MO,

 That picture looks like a square radius bar on a round radius bar bracket.  
But, I'm inclined to say black too. When I restored my car in the 80's I was anal (still am   ) about maintaining the correct finish so the bar was painted black. My other survivor '67 with the round rod has signs of black paint too so I guess the same manufacturer made that (square and round) and so used the same color.

Thanks!
Mike

 I used the high heat gloss paint by Rust-Oleum with good success.

Mike

 I use the forward first then shift into reverse method all the time especially in colder months.

   When I set the adjustment rod I do it with the return spring off and rock the bellhousing arm back and forth until I can hear a 'tap' which is the sound of the throwout bearing hitting the pressure plate fingers.
That way I know for sure there is some free play and no contact of the throwout bearing/pressure plate fingers under normal operation. This manual feel works for me instead of adjusting for pedal play which has led to premature throwout failure prior.

Mike

  Came across this today and thought you may find it interesting as it lists the owner and car both as 'survivors'.
http://v8tvshow.com/content/view/860/97/

(Though the owner mentioned the Tet Offensive in 1967, it was actually in late Jan 1968)

Mike

No takers? Surely someone out there must have seen an original square radius rod finish or own one possibly?

Thanks!
Mike

 I have spoken to the folks at ECS a while back and they say their tags are correct in every detail and created from known tags.
 Not sure of the paper stock though (I never asked them).
http://ecsautomotive.com/

Mike

 I searched the CRG archives and didn't find the answer. What is the color of the 67 square radius rod?
The MacNeish Book specs state 30-60% black but I have seen real Chevy NOS ones that look gray and even the CRF article shows gray examples as well.
I painted mine black in the 80's and don't remember seeing any colors then as it had surface rust.
Looking at my 67 L35 with the round bar, that appears to have some traces of black paint still.

Thank you,
Mike

I notice many restorations have the coil spring tags right there where everybody can see them. On my last '69 Z they were on the ends of the springs, out of sight inside the frame. I have never seen a coil spring tag in a vintage chassis photo.

That's how it is on my original 67...the tag is just up inside the chassis and out of sight unless you look up into that cavity.

Mike

 I just checked and found my 67 NOR 05B w/4 speed Muncie has only 2 holes drilled with 2 clips. One at the firewall (like your picture) and the other near the tranny.

Mike

....................
Don't make your undercarriage gray though.  Jerry's book (and every restored Concours car I saw at the Nationals) has "30-percent gloss black paint".

I have researched this topic deeply and have seen so many different original underbody photos. Despite what the book states, if a car has a gray underbody, then so be it. I don't think anyone is in a position to be the final authority on what took place over 40 years ago if empirical evidence clearly shows that there have been variations seen frequently as if often the case when work is done by a manual process. Sure, the majority may have been black but, IMHO, if you have gray sections too then by all means restore it that way instead of what a book states is correct.

Mike

...... I just wish there was a judging manual/summary of some sort similar to NCRS. ......

I'm with you, Chick, for this request too. I found a copy of the NCRS and am using that as a guideline on my current 67 restoration.
It seems easy enough to place a copy of the Camaro judging sheet guidelines on PDF and post it here. Not sure why that doesn't happen. What's the big secret? It can only help a restorer maximize their work efforts and minimize redo's.

Mike

MO,

  Which plant for those cars?

Thanks,
Mike

 I wonder if there was any real significance to the paper colors used or was it just a random selection.   
I know the fonts on many of the repos are not 100% correct but they sure are close enough. 

Mike

Hi Steve,
  
 I use a kit I bought in 1986 from Birchwood Casey for room temp oxide treating.
In it contains the rust remover, pre-dip cleaner and the black oxide solution and a can of Dri-Touch oil.
I still have solutions from that kit today and use it for spot treating bolts. Today there are so many more kits available.
 The trick to longevity is once the parts are treated and oiled initially you have to apply an oil to it periodically to maintain the rust preventative.
I use the Dri-Touch oil which goes on wet and dries to a film that provides the rust prevention. I apply it about 3 times a year with a small model type paint brush (I also apply to other parts too such as carb pieces and brake/fuel lines).
By itself black oxide offers no rust prevention but does provide a base for oil to bind to. The kits are the way to go for convenience and cost savings.

Mike

 Thanks all for the informative feedback.
And RP, I did appreciate the posting you have done for the research on the spring colors. The chart in the AIM is confusing for sure.
When I restore that car I'll keep what was there despite the differences in the spring application codes (YJ sticker in front and standard application paint in rear).

Mike