I'd certainly would want to see the VIN pad on the block and being the heads are off, a close up of the deck surface.
Did you guys notice the massive rip at the rear tunnel? The car must have thrown the drive shaft in its day.
Maybe the owner put in the mono rear for racing purposes. I know of a few who have done that to get a better wind up of the suspension.
Looks like a solid body though for its age.

Mike

Brandon,

  I'm a Dad too so if you still feel generous you are welcome to buy me a car....son 

Dad...I mean, Mike

Hi Nick,

  If the paint supplier by me was able to mix a gallon of DBC as recent as this past June after he called into whatever central office he was referring to to get the ratios, then why can't your local dealer do it?
Just curious, unless your local guy doesn't mix on-site.

Mike

 Well, I'll tell you what I am in the position of. I have a survivor 67 L35 I bought in 1980..original paint, original motor and drive train, spark plug wires dated 1972 (real, not repos), original glass, etc....

Just to name a few areas needing attention:

The windshield lamination has separated a lot around the edges
The trunk, header and roof top paint (all horizontal surfaces actually) has dried a lot, spider crazed, faded and some minor oxidation has started. No buffing will take this out.
A few very minor door dings that stand out being the car is a dark color.
Chassis surface oxidation in several areas
Rims need a repaint
Battery tray that is beyond rotted
Dinged and pitted fender well and RS rocker trims

   I have to draw a line somewhere when to stop worrying about being original once and restoring the whole car otherwise one can be displaying an original 'sh*tty' looking car. Sure, many like to see original paint, etc but for a very well preserved car, that is easy to do. But, like being original only once, I'm living a life only once so I want to do what I want to do and not necessarily what others say I should do. Looking at resale prices, I don't see enough true survivors to say that they really command the higher resale price. As with anything, a price of worth is what someone will pay for it and from what I have seen thus far people will pay good money for a well restored car vs. an original that is not at the same "pretty" level. I don't sell my cars anyhow but do want to drive them before passing them on to my kids.
  This is just me and my opinion and I have struggled a lot with the decision of "to restore, or not to restore" but each time I look at the dead paint and oxidation that is starting, I don't want to let rust take over for the sake of being original.

Mike

 Hi Chick,

  As for the Marsden lock nuts, what did you use for that? All those I have ever seen for replacements were zinc plated instead of phosphate. Unless in '69 they were no longer zinc?

Thanks again,
Mike

Chick,
 Is that black phosphate on the original bolt?

Thanks,
Mike

Quote from the seller; The engine block had to be decked because of a mechanical issue and the engine code and vin were re-stamped on the block just as it came from the factory.

So what’s the deal with this engine guys? The sellers quote states the engine was re-stamped after the fact…re-stamped as it came from the factory. I had assumed this car was legit and I’m beginning to think otherwise. Is it or is it not a re-stamped block from the factory? Anything about this car in CRG’s archives’? If not, I'll have to side with Daniel on this one...

  

Here is how I interpreted it after reading it once....
The engine block had to be decked because of a mechanical issue... as it states to fix a problem. I don't believe it means at the factory because there is no way for us to know what happened back then to this block, if anything.
...and the engine code and vin were re-stamped on the block just as it came from the factory this clearly tells me the stamps are redone to be what the factory fonts looked like and correct codes. I admire the seller for being up front with this info. Gents; IMHO think too much is being read into this description.

 Personally if I had $50K to spend and I wanted a Z but could not afford the high price of one with the original engine (and tranny) and it had a correct period dated block and other parts and properly restamped and the car itself was real, then I would pay the lower fair price for that. To me, it's not to cheat the nexy guy because I don't resell my cars and if I did I would make it clear the block was restored including the stamps because I know the legal ramifications that can happen otherwise. Why would I accept a restamped? We all have our own reasons but for me It would be my attempt to own a piece of history restored a close to as it existed back then (may as roll in the overspray, dated plug wires, glass hose clamps...etc). That's just me.

Mike

  That's interesting. I had a gallon of DBC butternut yellow mixed at my PPG dealer (Albert Kemperle) in June. I'm using the Deltron line for my entire paint job.
The sales guy said he had to make a call to their 'librarian' (if memory servers me correct, that was the name he stated) to get the mixing ratios for that color in DBC.
It's not applied to the car yet but I put a dab of paint on the car and it looks exact. Cost was $337 for the gallon.

Mike

   The VIN numbers spacing looks different between the engine and transmission.

Mike

After a couple of rounds of the Licensed By GM I quit buying any of it. All of it was  junk.

OER is the perfect example of GM licensed junk that's made offshore as cheaply as possible..

 After reviewing the different user experiences with the different brands, I went with AMD because of the seemingly better fit and thicker metal gauge. I called AMD yesterday to order a door skin and had questioned what the difference was between the same part number, but one has an 'X' in it. I spoke to a gentleman who told me the parts without the 'X' are made with their owned tooling and was of better quality vs. the X. When asked if they were made here he said both parts are made over seas. The price was slightly higher by $10. I should get it this week and likely hang it this weekend so I'll post my results to share when done.
  As for made over seas, until we have another world war upon us to reverse the trend, I'm afraid the business generation of greed will continue with the shameful practice of moving jobs off shore.

Mike

Not to thread jack but what about this....

http://www.cars-on-line.com/40395.html

Rear end was built a week after the car?  05A build date with a BUO513G2 rear end.  That dog won't hunt.

I believe the trim tag date is when the body was started and that could have been the end of the first week. So, I guess could be possible unless someone with access to the CRG DB can get an approximation of those date ranges of trim tag, rear dates (for that particular gear ratio).

Mike

 I see your car is a '69 but if it helps, my 67 LOS 4B still has the original 8515 booster dated 82.
Give Steve at brakeboosters.com a call. He has some intersting findings on booster dates and has likely seen more boosters than anyone here.

Mike

  Most muffler shops can custom bend a system. I would recommend to get aluminized pipes for longevity.

Mike

  One less '69 Camaro:   http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7o7uPNyUpdo&feature=related

Looking at the Yenko Nova, I wonder if that was a clone or a die-hard racer using a real Yenko car for what it was build for.
Anyhow...I'll only image in my mind what my cars can do in the 1/4 mile and save the real risks and costs to someone else 

Mike

 It looks soooo good when the parts are new or restored. Makes you not want to drive it now, doesn't it?

Mike