Hi Bob,

  The engine block area the starter nose contacts had several spots of paint on it. I examined the two block bolt areas carefully and though I can see paint traces around where the outside of the bolt would sit, the areas that came in contact with the metal are slightly scarred from digging and there is no paint on it that I can see and nothing on the bolt heads either that came in contact with the starter. That makes me wonder if the bolt holes were plugged when painted (and solenoid covered), sort of like when the engine had caps on things like water pump necks when being painted. That's the only thing that makes sense. I wonder of John Pirkle Jr. would know.

Mike

Bob,

 After carefully cleaning out the stamped letters I can clearly see black paint inside the stamped area.
There is even paint on the pin and C clip that holds the shift fork so the whole unit looks to have been painted as an assembly.
The solenoid is black with Delco in the middle. The case itself looks to be zinc.

Mike

 Thanks for posting those pictures, Gary. Looks like I have the correct screws on my 67 

Mike

Gary,

  Do you have a side view of the screws to see how thick the head is?

Mike

 I suspect the ID of the rod end is oversize so the pin is able to work its way out.
Too bad the machine shops these days can't dip the rod ends in copper to take up the extra diameter like the factory did.

Mike

 The car with the oil gauge is the restored one. I had cut a few inches off the dried end on the engine side back in the 80's when it was restored so the length is shorter now.
As for taping it looked like the black sticky cloth type like the ones you see in electrical work. It looks the same as what was in the trunk around the tail light harness.

Mike

Bob,

 I removed the starter motor and gave it a wiping of gunk. Good thing I took it down because the top of the solenoid was cracked and a large piece missing.
I looked at the motor and noted the following.
* The long end screws (bolts) had traces of paint on the heads and under the heads were clear so it was painted assembled.
* The nose shows no obvious signs of a 'clean area'. The picture does show the paint edge at the nose and the other shows traces of black paint all over.
* The two motor mounting bolts however show that when it was tightened it dug into the metal.
* The paint looks to be a gloss black or a shiny semi gloss.

Here is my thinking of grounding for the starter motor....the rear support that is held with a nut as shown in UPC L35/A5 may be the intended method of grounding the motor body to the block through the long main case bolt with the threaded stud on the end.

 I looked at the SB lines and they are the same diameter. The picture just makes one look larger because it is curved up towards the camera.
The length is close to 14".

Mike

 
The oil line I'm going to replace is on the manual car and I don't see that band. I even looked at the area that the oil line is held to the head with a clamp but nothing there.
The line with the purple band came off a small block parts car in the early 80's.

Mike

 Let me lower the starter motor and take a look. I'll let you know what I find.

Mike

Hi Bob,
 
   The purple band must be some sort of length marker possibly from the spool the hose was on.
I can't figure out what material it is. It is hard and only wraps about 3/4 the way around. Maybe it is a tape that has hardened from the heat.
Based on your and Buddy's replies and the fact that I have 2 examples I'm going to stay with a clear line.

Mike

 I'm going to replace the oil line on my 5B 67 L35. The end at the block looks brittle and I don't trust it. I can cut and re-terminate it with the factory fitting but the age of the line overall gives me doubts. Looking at the reproductions and also reading the threads here state the line is suppose to be black. The oil line I have on my 5B that has the grommet is clear (well...very yellowed now) and I also have a partial line in my shed removed from a parts cars in the early 80's that too has a clear line (plus a dark purple band that may be a length delimiter?). Were both types used?

Thank you,
Mike

Hi Bob,

   The car is on a lift so it's easy to lower the starter and look at the nose finish. The end plate looks easy enough to remove so I can do that.
With the end bolts removed what are you looking for specifically?

Mike

It must be because it was never restored. I examined it closely and it still has many areas left covered with what looks like semi-gloss black paint.

Mike

I bought a front license plate bracket from member Dannystarr. He says it has the AAC on it but neither one of us was for sure if original GM. Thats why my post. ................

Gary,

  Do you think it was a reproduction font stamping? The stamping looked the same as the ones I posted.

Mike