I attached 2 pictures with one of an original pulley with its good condition finish still intact from a Dec 1966 dated 1100693 alternator (the pulley has an 11 stamp in a fin- possible month code)
I pulled this from a 67 Camaro parts car in 1983 to save as a spare (not many repo parts back then!).
Shown next to it on the right is a refinished pulley from a May 1967 dated 1100693 alternator that's on my convertible (the pulley has a 4 stamped in a fin- possible month code)
As you can see, the fan and pulley (one piece design) have a phosphate finish. I used a gun Parkerizing kit to refinish the May dated alternator pulley.
Phosphate and Parkerizing are the same, I believe. As you can see they look the same in shade and appearance despite being 45 years apart in finishes.

 I think the black paint you see may have been from a rebuild shop. They paint everything black or silver when rebuilding.

Mike

Hi Bob,

Check your gmail account. I sent several pictures and attached them in a zip file (CRG looks to have file limits) along with some other info you may find of interest.

I'll also be at a car show/swap meet this weekend and I'll keep an lookout for the linkage/bracket if you want. Send me your number and I'll call you if I come across something.
I can pick it up and send it to you.

Mike

I'll take pictures of the original pulley/fan and post it. Yes, it is one piece.

Mike

 I also have a spare pulley with the original finish and that is phosphated (dark gray) too. It looks like yours.

Is the date on the alternator between March thru May by chance?

Mike

 
I have the original alternator on my 67 BB (same PN as yours) and it uses that same pulley. Mine was without a doubt dark phosphate originally. I re-phosphated it recently during my current re-restore of my restored 67 L35 ragtop (repainting).  
Yours looks like it has a phosphate finish too.


Mike

Does what is on the car jive with the sheet?

Mike

It's still nice to see the 'Made in USA' though.

Mike

Whats the part number of the alternator?

Mike

Hi Bob,

 I took the linkage out of the car (probably the first time ever). Because of its length I couldn't get a good picture.
Attached are 4 images with the titles describing each one.
As for the finishes:
The tranny linkage bracket and 2 jam nuts looks to be zinc plated. You can see it clearly with some of the grime removed.
The union and threaded rod looks to be a dark phosphate.

Measurements:
The rod length before it starts to bend up is approximately 13 3/4" measuring from the threaded end to the bend.
The top view shows how the rod curves inward towards the shifter linkage in the car
From the threaded end to the opposite end is 16"
 I still have it out of the car so if you need anymore measurements let me know.

Mike

Don't forget the box of Kleenex for when the first 'ding' comes along   
All kididng aside, it looks very good!

Mike

Hi Bob,

  I'll get my daughters slim camera and slide it in the cars tunnel and snap a few for ya.

Mike

We do not discuss fight club, if you get the reference.

Not sure if this was directed at my comments or the gentleman asking the question about a fake tag.
   This is a double edge sword and I know this group is tight lip about this because it can give the fakers more insight on what to do to correct a repo. But, IMO, it doesn't take a rocket scientist to figure out just get a real tag and duplicate it in every detail. It can be done just like anything else if you have the $$$ to buy the equipment to perform the work.
   On the flip side, educating people what to spot can likely save them money from making a wrong mistake and also expose fraud. This topic on what to look for in a fake trim tag has been discussed ad-nausea in practically every car group on the web.
  Like money, paintings and other areas that bring high dollars, fakes will exist. Only through education can one educate potential buyers by exposing the flaws and maybe  either cause a counterfeiter to go broke by not being able to afford the $$$$ to have the equipment necessary and bail out or they will go the distance and duplicate an exact clone that is undetectable, which is likely these days.
   In this case the gentleman was asking a question. I feel the question should be answered in a PM at the very least and an FYI sent to the group that it was answered in a PM otherwise people will think CRG is just being rude.  Even then you don't know if the person asked in earnest or a counterfeiter masquerading as a would be buyer. Either way the car culture is face with either stay tight lip and let potential buyers make mistakes and also keep the fakers in business preying on them or educate to expose the flaws and the fakers making them. What prevents a true counterfeit copy these days with high precision manufacturing equipment available is $$$$$. So in this case education and knowledge has the advantage.

Sorry about the rant but this is an area that bugs me.
  Just my 2 cents.

Mike

All you have to do with any rattle can is fog it on from about 18". Dries to much the same appearance.

  That's exactly how I did it with my '67 dash annd it came out just right.

Mike

Thanks, I was in a hotel last night when I tried to download, I tried at one of my stores today, same thing. It downloads real quick and then says something about damaged file cannot repair. I also triied to just open it and it took a little longer but the same results. I'll have my IT look at it, maybe something wrong with my adobe.

Thanks again, Kevin

I got the damaged file message when I first saved it to disk then tried to open it. I got around that by 'opening' the file then save it later. The file size is 60MB and took a while to download.

Mike

 I'm no expert on what is fake or real on a tag but I can compare a real Z tag to this and I see the hook on the 6 looks odd as well as the curve of the 3's.
 Just an observation.

Mike