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Messages - Mike S

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2296
Restoration / Re: Are the any differances in sub frames?
« on: November 03, 2012, 01:44:39 AM »
Can anyone suggest what tool to get to remove BB springs??? I found several coil spring compressors at sears website but they all seem a bit weak for BB springs...

Hi Joe,

  I highly recommend the OTC 7045B spring compressor. By design, it is impossible for the mechanics to unwind by itself when compressed (something an internal hook compressor does very easily and suddenly) and it uses a ball bearing thrust plate to make compressing very easy and smooth. I got mine on Amazon for $125. Yep, it costs more but after almost being killed by an internal hook compressor in the late 80's and then a few months back in 2012 having the internal hook type suddenly and violently uncompress with BB springs twice in the same day when removing them from the chassis, I figured my life was worth the extra $$$ and bought this to install them. It's in my tool box now and I will never use the other types again.

Mike

2297
General Discussion / Re: Metal Backs on 67 Bucket Seats
« on: November 03, 2012, 01:30:03 AM »
Mike S >>>>>>,
  Mine had some minor dings in them too.  Luckily, I have a nephew who is the manager of a Body Shop, and a lot of patience.  He used, like a plastic punch, and a 6 in. long X 1 in. dia. Wood Dowel to "tap" them out.  Did a great job.


Hmmm...that is a good idea. I will ty the dowel method and see how it works.

Thanks for that idea!
Mike

2298
General Discussion / Re: Ebay 68 z
« on: October 30, 2012, 10:11:02 PM »
Do you have the link?

Mike

2299
General Discussion / Re: Official CRG Cap?
« on: October 30, 2012, 03:02:08 PM »
 Count me in!

Mike

2300
General Discussion / Re: Matching a 68 motor
« on: October 28, 2012, 06:13:22 PM »
 The partial VIN contains the serial number of the car it came in so unless you find that original block you will not have a number matching car (part of matching anyways). The best you can do is get a "period correct" motor (and tranny) whereby having correct cast numbers and casting dates of the engine components prior to the range of the cars build date range as stamped on the trim tag. That would, IMO, add minimal value to a cars resale value if you decide to sell it later. But for your own piece of mind you can go that route as many have done here.
  Don't get hung up on numbers matching anyhow. Most cars have been raced and blocks and other drive line components damaged and swapped out for other motors and parts available at that time. I routinely look at resale of old cars through various venues and even though many that have real numbers matching do sell for more money, many that are not matching still sell for good money too depending on the quality of the car. Even some with openly disclosed re-stamped motors are selling for good money. Maybe not as much as a real original matching numbers car, but still good bucks. It all comes down to what people are willing to pay.
  Life is short so just enjoy the car while you can!  ;)
 
Mike

2301
General Discussion / Re: Metal Backs on 67 Bucket Seats
« on: October 25, 2012, 08:33:11 PM »
Kurts #9 reply....Metal vs. plastic seat backs: Transition appears to occur during mid-April or possibly first week of May

My 4B LOS and 5B NOR have the metal backs (these can knock you out if they slam back!   :P ) so maybe the transition was late May.
They are in great shape but one in the NOR car has a minor ding in that I wish I could get out.

Mike

2302
 Daniel sent me a pic. I see what he means about blue hues.
I understand your reasons for not posting. No worries though because I know most people don't know how to adjust their camera's white balance, if possible at all these days with the small ones, so the hues may be off. Plus there's also the flash reflections changing surface brightness. Also most people don't adjust their monitors gamma and color balances either which will surely skew colors.
 I use a web picture for reference only and realize most web colors have limited color accuracy compared to the source.

  Thanks again, Daniel,

Mike

2303
Hey...why keep it a secret in a research group? Please share what your thoughts are  ;)

Mike

2304
 Rustoleum smoked gray is very close to the correct finish for a 67 mono spring.

Mike

2305
General Discussion / 67 SS rolled over video and 69 fire
« on: October 23, 2012, 02:21:21 AM »
Came across this video tonight of a 67 SS Camaro totaled in a rollover crash with a bolder.

http://www.streetlegaltv.com/news/video-first-gen-camaro-ss-totaled-after-nasty-rollover-in-illinois/

And for you 69 owners.....
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PTiw60aPXV8



Drive safe!
Mike


2306
General Discussion / Re: 67 z on ebay
« on: October 22, 2012, 12:12:24 AM »
   Got 'ya....So you offered 40K for the trim tag or the stripped body?

 If we only knew then what they would be worth now....

Mike

2307
General Discussion / Re: How much value would I add if
« on: October 21, 2012, 11:12:26 PM »
 I wouldn't worry about if the value went up or not unless you are planning on selling it later. Just do it (or don't do it) for yourself and have fun with the car.

Mike

2308
General Discussion / Re: 67 z on ebay
« on: October 21, 2012, 11:09:48 PM »
I've offered 40,000 for my original 67 l78 camaro conv. Trim tag that's attached to the stripped car that sat in a field for years. I have the original motor.

Not sure what you are saying here.....you were offered or you offered 40K for a a 67 L78 car?

Just curious,
Mike

2309
Originality / Re: 69 Trunk
« on: October 18, 2012, 01:36:29 AM »
 I thought Fisher sprayed the trunk during the paint shop phase before going to Chevy.  ???

Mike

2310
Originality / Re: Glass dates
« on: October 17, 2012, 11:14:50 PM »
 I recently looked at the glass dates on my 67 NOR 5B car that has the original doors and quater glass and found the following:
L-QTR- April 67
R-QTR - Jan 67

L-Door - April 67
R-Door April 67

L-Vent - Dec 66
R-Vent - June 67 (this I did replace back in the early 80's)

Mike

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