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Messages - Mike S

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1906
Restoration / Re: Power Top Problem/Questions
« on: November 09, 2013, 09:33:55 PM »
  If the motor doesn't smell like it's burning -or- it is not laboring due to too much air in the system,  then I would try to jump the breaker to see if that is the source of the power interruption. I suspect that is the cause and it may be bad being so old now.
 As for a leaking cylinder, I have one that is leaking too. I looked at the reproductions and they look dead on accurate i n shape. But, I may send mine out to get them resealed unless I can find the seals in a kit and do iot myself. I want to keep the original ones being that after so many years, one gets a sentimental attachment to the car plus its original parts.

Mike

1907
Restoration / Re: First attempt at Zinc Plating
« on: November 09, 2013, 09:29:06 PM »
 The Z-bar I meant was for the clutch.
My hood hinges and RS hood striker w/large handle were done in the 80's and still look great though they now have the olive green/gray appearance which the phosphate coating will change to after a few years. The Z-bar and clutch push rod didn't survive as well so I'm looking to redo that.

   Speaking to my friend, he said he knew someone who used an old rectangular stainless steel kitchen sink he found in someones trash and used that for larger parts. He must have made some sort of plug for the drain but the idea sure sounds good and not as costly.
Time to travel around the neighborhood on recycling day!  ;D

Mike

1908
 I have never seen a bracket for the rear plate for a '67. Neither of my'67 have it.

Mike

1909
Decoding/Numbers / Re: '68 SS Emblem with Standard Grill
« on: November 09, 2013, 06:23:43 PM »
 It can be confusing what is for sale out there. You need to be careful with the sellers of repro parts state in what it fits.
Example: I have yet to see an accurate reproduction of a 67 SS/RS 396 emblem with the flat bottom.
The originals (396 equipped Camaros) looked like the 'SS 350' tag with the 350 milled off as if the SS 350  molds were modified to eliminate the 350 engine size.
I've had people with the SS 396 reproduction emblems tell me that is the way they came originally from the factory (just like the caution fan sticker) and that the original flat bottoms on my 67's are wrong.

Mike

1910
General Discussion / Camaro recall notices link
« on: November 09, 2013, 05:29:27 PM »
 Came across this while searching for the Quadrajet recall around 1970 and found it interesting to read. So far I haven't found the recall info for the Quadrajets due to the hot slot issue. I thought it was in 1970. The notices do mention the engine mounts recall info.
Anyhow...interesting info no less.

http://recallrecord.com/auto/chevrolet/camaro/

Mike

1911
1969 - Orphans / Re: Original 1969 302 block on ebay - stamped 19N582430
« on: November 09, 2013, 04:47:02 PM »
 If I was truly interested in buying an engine for that price especially if it belonged in my car and not trying to jerk the seller around I would travel to see it in person and tell the seller up front that I want a head removed while I am there to check for decking marks under it. Also, for that price I want to hear it run and if all looks legit (casting, VIN, broach, etc...) I will then hand over the money.

Just my opinion,
Mike

1912
Restoration / Re: First attempt at Zinc Plating
« on: November 09, 2013, 03:08:38 AM »
 That looks very good, Bob. The springs are a nice touch to show the details.
Is that pot you use large enough to hold a Z-bar? I may go to the store and get the same one if it looks like it will work for that.

Thanks!
Mike

1913
Restoration / Re: First attempt at Zinc Plating
« on: November 08, 2013, 02:47:59 AM »
 That looks great, Bob. After a few years it will start to turn to a nice greenish/gray hue.
What did you use for a container?
How did you finish the latch return spring?

Mike

1914
Restoration / Re: First attempt at Zinc Plating
« on: November 07, 2013, 12:30:17 AM »
  Hi Janobyte,

  Surface prep is THE most important factor in the outcome of the final finish with phosphate. Just like when painting a car.
I will wash a part in a degreaser first, sand or glass bead it, another round of degreaser, then I will put the parts in a semi-boiling water pre bath to float off any remaining oils (rarely none at this stage) then directly to the phosphate solution that has been preheated to 180-190 degrees. After the fizzle slows or stops or if I feel there is enough deposited then I remove the parts and run them through another clean water rinse. Quickly dry and then right to the Dri-Touch oil treatment.
  If you have any oil on the parts then it will show as blotches.
Yes, you can reuse the solution over many times until it is exhausted. I store it in a plastic container when not in use. Use a stainless steel container to heat the phosphate solution. I recommend either a copper bottom or a metal diffuser under the pot to avoid any hot spots that can lead to scale buildup at the bottom.
  The nice thing about a DIY is you save money and there is always that part you missed and now you can treat it at home. I use a Coleman camper burner in the shed so as not to bring the fumes in the house. I got the SS pots at a dollar store and also use stainless steel baskets to hold the small parts for the bath.
Try it. I think you will be pleasantly surprised how easy it is.

Mike

1915
Restoration / Re: First attempt at Zinc Plating
« on: November 06, 2013, 02:41:00 PM »
 The Eastwood spray finishes make a car restoration look cheap, IMO.
Aside from chrome, home plating for zinc and phosphates (Parkerize) is very easy and affordable for DIY.

Mike

1916
Originality / Re: Carb for 02E L-35 Automatic
« on: November 05, 2013, 05:20:18 PM »
    B7 should be fine then, I assume. The carb could have been assembled any day during that month because no day was recorded in the stamping so you have some wiggle room.
My 05B L35 had a D7 dated Q-jet.

Mike

1917
Originality / Re: Carb for 02E L-35 Automatic
« on: November 05, 2013, 04:53:52 PM »
02E as in the 5th week of Feb??  ???

Mike

1918
Originality / Re: 69Z Brake Booster Oddity
« on: November 04, 2013, 07:22:36 PM »
 Gesh...I didn't see the scroll bar  :-[
This front cover is not a reproduction but I can't say for sure about the stamped letters. The triangles are very 'sharp' in reproductions compared to more rounded an original has as this clearly shows.
Maybe the front cover was replaced at some point with the rear cover stamping retained? This one you show looks to be in good shape and likely restored in the past.

Mike

1919
Originality / Re: 69Z Brake Booster Oddity
« on: November 04, 2013, 05:06:35 PM »
Can you show a closeup of the front to see the triangles? That will be easy to see if it's a reproduction nor not.

Mike

1920
Maintenance / Re: REM OIL
« on: November 04, 2013, 04:51:50 PM »
 I use it on my firearms and it works great for that purpose. The thing is it can be a dust magnet on automotive parts because it doesn't dry enough. I would get a product (I use Birchwood Casey's Dri-Touch) that goes on wet using an artists brush and dries to a protective film so as not to attract dust and dirt.

Mike

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