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Topics - Mike S

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106
Restoration / 67 front door curve - how to
« on: May 20, 2013, 06:55:14 PM »
 I'm getting ready to install a new door skin on a 67. I have the correct tools for it but this will be a first time I'll be doing a Camaro door which has the inward curved edge at the front top. Anyone with experience have any pointers to ensure the edge folds nicely around the inward curve? I usually fold only a couple of 16ths per pass with a hammer and dolly to ease the folded edge into shape but the curve has me concerned on how to best approach it.

Thank you in advance,
Mike

107
Originality / Was the nose bolted together when the stripe applied?
« on: April 27, 2013, 12:35:01 AM »
 In The First-Generation Camaro Assembly Process I've read the Chevrolet Assembly - Paint Shop Operations Details and see where the paint stripe was applied but it's not clear if the front end sheet metal was bolted together at that point. I'm assuming it was before the stripe was applied as it makes the most sense but I can't see in the article if that was the case. The following section Chevrolet Assembly - Front Sheet Metal Subassembly seems to describe that is when the sheet metal was assembled.

Mike
 

108
Originality / 67 oil line clear or black?
« on: April 20, 2013, 01:54:28 PM »
 I'm going to replace the oil line on my 5B 67 L35. The end at the block looks brittle and I don't trust it. I can cut and re-terminate it with the factory fitting but the age of the line overall gives me doubts. Looking at the reproductions and also reading the threads here state the line is suppose to be black. The oil line I have on my 5B that has the grommet is clear (well...very yellowed now) and I also have a partial line in my shed removed from a parts cars in the early 80's that too has a clear line (plus a dark purple band that may be a length delimiter?). Were both types used?

Thank you,
Mike

109
General Discussion / 10 classic American muscle cars article
« on: April 14, 2013, 06:59:30 PM »
 Though you may find this of interest (yes it does mention a Camaro)  ;)

http://autos.yahoo.com/news/10-classic-american-muscle-cars-153459794.html?page=1

Mike

110
Restoration / Correct 67 radiator tag
« on: March 07, 2013, 01:19:06 AM »
 Has anyone seen an accurate reproduction 67 radiator tag with the stepped edges instead of the straight edge commonly seen for sale?
I don't mind paying good money as long as the reproduction is accurate but so far I haven't seen a correct copy.

Thanks,
Mike

111
Maintenance / Penske 21015 dwell?
« on: February 20, 2013, 12:27:00 AM »
 Picked up a Sears-Penske 21015 dwell/tach meter today and installed a new 4.5v battery.
I have no manual unfortunately. I'm trying to figure out how to calibrate the 'set line' setting but can't get the meter to move.
I verified the meter is working.
I assume this is for the points resistance measurements.
Does anyone happen to have this model by chance?

Thanks,
Mike

112
Originality / Was it DIFF or DIFF.
« on: February 17, 2013, 03:06:53 PM »
   I'm looking for the correct posi tag for my one 67 with a 12 bolt posi.
From looking at the CRQ archives I understand the correct wordage should be:
"USE POSITRACTION DIFF LUBRICANT ONLY"

I see two reproduction tags with one style having a period after the word DIFF and another without a period (DIFF.  vs. DIFF)
Does anyone still have their original tag to verify which is correct?

Thank you,
Mike

113
Maintenance / 5460346 master cylinder brass seat source
« on: February 06, 2013, 11:41:09 PM »

 I wanted to share this with you in case someone is looking for replacement master cylinder brass seats.
 When I had the master cylinder rebuilt, the brass seats were removed as part of the cleaning process. Not wanting to reinstall these because the seat face had flair groove scars
and I don't like reusing anything that has a compression surface because chances are it will not reseat good.
I found these brass seats on the Muscle Car Research web site (the makers of other obsolete brake components rebuild kits such as metering (hold off) valve and pressure distribution block for 1st gen.)
and they fit the GM 5460346 (WT) master cylinder on my 67 perfectly. These measure .003" (.374"-old vs. .377"-new) wider at the seat area because these haven't been compressed yet so
make sure they are centered before installing and use an old brake pipe with a double flair to push it in (for those who don't know that technique).

The price is right so stock up while they exist.
The URL is: https://www.musclecarresearch.com/gm-pd-valve-tube-seats-1

Attached is a picture of the original plugs removed from the MC with measurements. Maybe these replacements will fit other applications.
And no, I have no affiliation with MCR other than a happy customer.

Mike

114
Site Comments/Discussion / New Model Info page?
« on: February 06, 2013, 01:05:37 PM »
Today I noticed a 'Model Info' link. Was this something new or was I just blind to it before?
Anyhow, it's very informative!

Mike

115
  I have seen this question comes up a few times so I decided to create instructions to outline the basic steps necessary to rescale an image to a size acceptable to post on the CRG Discussion Forum. Using the Microsoft Paint program that is part of the Windows PC operating systems you can basic achieve image reduction without needing third party aftermarket products like Photoshop.

1.Select Start -> Programs -> Accessories -> Paint

2.When the Paint interface opens select File -> Open

3.Browse to the folder containing the file, select file and click on Open.
Depending on the size of the original image it may look very large on the paint board.
You can use the right and bottom scroll tabs to move it around.

4.Make a backup of the original image file in case you have to resort to it again. Being the intent is to make a smaller version to post I typically append the word –small in the file name (example: cam-replace.jpg with be saved as cam_replace-small.jpg).
To save the image select File -> Save As and use the new name.
Once saved this will be the current file you will be working with.

5.Next is to get the current image information. Select Image -> Attributes to display the image information (shortcut is to press control e)
What you want to note is the Width, Height and Size on disk values

6.Select Cancel to close the Attributes window

7.To resize select Image -> Stretch/Skew (shortcut is to press control w)
The Stretch and Skew window opens

8.Using the information from step 5 you can adjust the image file size recommendation of 150kb or less to be within the CRG requirements by changing image scale (Horizontal/Vertical) in the Stretch section. Depending on the size of the original image you will have to experiment with the percentages. I typically strive between a size of 480 to 600 pixels wide to give a good view for details and this size typically brings the file size within the recommended size of 150kb or less. To maintain the same aspect ratio use the same percentages for Horizontal and Vertical then select OK.

9.The image size will change on the paint board. To check the new size press control e (step 5) to display the new attributes for width and height. Note: the Size on disk value will not change until the image is saved by doing a File ->Save (shortcut is to press control s). Pressing a control e after it is saved will show the new file size in bytes.

10.If the image size is still too large or too small then you can back out by pressing control z which will restore the image to the original size. If you mess up and can't restore to the original size then close the image and reopen the original. Don't forget to save a backup again as mentioned in step 4.

11.If you are satisfied with the image size (width and height) and the size (150kb or under) then you are done

 I tried uploading a PDF with pictures but the file size exceeded the limit. If you would like a PDF copy PM me and I will send you one in email.

Below are a before and after resizing examples.
Hope this helps!
Mike

116
General Discussion / 67 SS rolled over video and 69 fire
« on: October 23, 2012, 02:21:21 AM »
Came across this video tonight of a 67 SS Camaro totaled in a rollover crash with a bolder.

http://www.streetlegaltv.com/news/video-first-gen-camaro-ss-totaled-after-nasty-rollover-in-illinois/

And for you 69 owners.....
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PTiw60aPXV8



Drive safe!
Mike


117
General Discussion / Ouch! One less '69
« on: September 14, 2012, 02:09:49 PM »
  One less '69 Camaro:   http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7o7uPNyUpdo&feature=related

Looking at the Yenko Nova, I wonder if that was a clone or a die-hard racer using a real Yenko car for what it was build for.
Anyhow...I'll only image in my mind what my cars can do in the 1/4 mile and save the real risks and costs to someone else  ;D

Mike

118
Restoration / 67 Hold Off valve finish
« on: September 07, 2012, 12:20:04 AM »
  I received the rebuild kit posted here last week from Muscle Car Research and upon cleaning the original hold off valve parts I noticed the round cover finish looks to be a gray phosphate type of finish. When dry it looks like the gray finish on my 45 ACP. In the images below you can see the interior gray finish as well as its extension into the flat machined edge. On the exterior you can clearly see the remaining gray finish in the machine mark rings. This leads me to believe the cover did in fact have a gray phosphate finish, at least in 67. I see many repro hold-offs and the cover cap is a gold cadmium color. Maybe that was later in 68-69 but this doesn't seem the case for '67. I have researched the CRG archives but can not find a definitive answer as to what the finish should be though I have seen another thread where another person with an early 68 Z had the same interior finish. Many say it was a bright zinc to gold finish. I'll be bringing pictures to shows in case the judging questions it.
  Any other 67 or early 68 owners see the same on your hold-offs? If you haven't opened yours up yet, you  may want to do it. It is a surprise of the amount of brown crud that develops inside though the outside looks clean.
Thanks to Muscle Car Research LLC for the fast delivery and excellent price!

Thank you,
Mike

119
Restoration / 67 rear fuel line bracket finish?
« on: August 30, 2012, 12:56:00 AM »
 I searched the CRG archives (and also did a web search) and can't find the answer.
Is the rear fuel line bracket that bolts to the frame and has a square opening for the end of the line to go through painted or phosphate? I looked at my other survivor but it is lightly oxidized and I can't tell for sure if it's paint or phosphate.
The 1967 AIM P/N is 3912538 as shown on UPC 8/B3 item #9.

Thanks in advance,
Mike

120
Restoration / Scars - what would you do?
« on: August 07, 2012, 08:17:21 PM »
  As some know I am re-restoring my 67 convertible that was restored previously in the mid-80's.
I'm at the stage where I sprayed the upper and lower control arms a semi-gloss black I noticed a few areas near the spring pocket and sway bar linkage area are that have minor rust scars that catch my eye (parts have been sand and bead blasted free of rust).
I'm undecided if I should just leave them there being it's the natural patina of  a 45 year old chassis or smooth them over with glaze putty.
The main H chassis is in very good shape with very minor small scars scattered here and there due to the benefits of a leaky motor from its former life.
 Being out of the show circuit for 20+ years I'm undecided which way to go. Are areas like these subject to point hits? Again, it's minor scars and not deep craters.

What would you do?

Thank you in advance.
Mike

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