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97133 Posts in 11686 Topics by 4578 Members
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346  Camaro Research Group Discussion / Maintenance / Re: RS Headlight Door Trouble AGAIN... on: July 06, 2011, 05:09:35 AM
The rubber boots can be re-enforced with some quality electrical tape, or commercial grade film production black "Gaffers Tape" to repair breaks in the links.

The return spring was in decent shape on the right side door? Can you manually close the door or is it binding?
347  Camaro Research Group Discussion / Maintenance / Re: RS Headlight Door Trouble AGAIN... on: July 05, 2011, 07:59:49 PM
You can lube the inside of the actuators with high quality spray silicone.
Insert the applicator straw in the rear connector and spray a little in.
Then repeat in the front connector.
Then rotate the can clockwise counterclockwise so the rubber edge of the diaphragm inside gets covered, this is the seal on the can.
Then manually push and pull the piston a few times.
You should notice the process gets easier.

A second shot if need be but don't drown it in silicone.

Be careful if you have old cans not to dent the cans there is no way to roll the bend out.

If you find a pin hole you can seal the holes but the corrosion will continue so sooner or later you will have to buy a new can.

Piston Lube can be silicone or Petroleum Jelly. Carefully unhook the rear of the rubber boot on the piston and lube the seal on the can, then the piston.
Manually activate the piston open and close a few times to distribute the lube in the seal.
Replace the rubber boot to keep crud out of the can.
Since the rubber boots can rot and or disconnect - Replacement boots are available.

Brian
348  Camaro Research Group Discussion / Maintenance / Re: RS Headlight Door Trouble AGAIN... on: July 04, 2011, 10:31:44 PM
Marty - Glad it helped.

Are you running a reproduction valve or original 1969 valve?

I tend to see the same valve reproduction part listed as BOTH a 68 or 69 valve.
But folks who have the 68 AIM and original valves say its
shows the valve order as green on top, yellow, the red on the bottom.
But the 69 AIM states its valve is like traffic light red top, yellow, and green on the bottom.

I think this is where folks have gotten confused looking at 68 specs for 69, vise-versa

The actuators are identical both 68 and 69 so why they changed the valve who knows.
349  Camaro Research Group Discussion / Maintenance / Re: RS Headlight Door Trouble AGAIN... on: July 03, 2011, 10:27:21 PM
You can isolate the headlight switch, manual valve and the actuators of a 69 following this posting
http://www.camaros.net/forums/showpost.php?p=1578761&postcount=3

Entire thread here: http://www.camaros.net/forums/showthread.php?t=195773

And here also: A post on 68 and my posting on the difference in 69 of the hose order. It has a picture of the switch hose order and the page from the 69 AIM. Don't yet know how to post pics here. http://www.camaros.net/forums/showthread.php?t=196249
350  Camaro Research Group Discussion / Originality / Re: 814 Alternator on: July 01, 2011, 08:36:29 PM
Good to hear they did right by you.
351  Camaro Research Group Discussion / Restoration / Re: 69 Low Fuel Light on: June 30, 2011, 07:29:50 PM
Mike - don't think so as I assume your gauge in the console is using the same ground as the low fuel monitor is.
But the low fuel monitor should be getting the same oms from the tank sender and report the same levels as the gauge.

That's why it is important to test the gauge, the tank sender, and the low fuel monitor. If you get 45ohms (1/2 a tank) at the sender, and the gauge and you test the monitor and get less then 45 the wiring or the monitor itself would be suspect.  Your base line test of the sender lead in the trunk will be the only standard, assuming you KNOW how much fuel is really in the tank.  

Here is a troubleshooting I wrote over on TC http://www.camaros.net/forums/showpost.php?p=1579191&postcount=2 see if that helps you run the tests.
352  Camaro Research Group Discussion / Restoration / Re: 69 Low Fuel Light on: June 30, 2011, 06:55:14 AM
I would check the ohms at the gauge and then at the low fuel module to make sure they are the same reading.
353  Camaro Research Group Discussion / Originality / Re: Decals and stickers on Air Cleaners? on: June 29, 2011, 09:23:52 AM
No the decals are original factory fitted items.
Each engine option had a correct decal based on its family (L6 or V8)
and its rated horsepower.  i.e. Turbo-Thrift, Turbo-Fire, Turbo-Jet with crossed flags on big block 396 engines, etc.

I think if I remember correct most if not all the small block V8's were Turbo-Fire,
Big Blocks were Turbo-Jets, and the L6 was the Turbo Thrift but I'm not 100% sure.

Brian
354  Camaro Research Group Discussion / General Discussion / Re: 837 remanufactured ALT - is this real? on: June 25, 2011, 06:59:05 PM
Joe,

You can answer your own question by doing the following search on this site...  thegmparts

 Wink

Paul

Hey Paul all I get in a search is this thread. What did you find?
355  Site Comments / Discussion / Site Comments/Discussion / Re: VIN Registry on: June 23, 2011, 11:42:12 PM
Wow I like the color very much.
356  Camaro Research Group Discussion / Maintenance / Re: 69 z28 tach installation on: June 19, 2011, 08:01:34 PM
Easy direction come with the AAW Factory Fit brand harness.
357  Camaro Research Group Discussion / Maintenance / Re: Console gauges problems on: June 19, 2011, 07:53:27 PM
No69x-44 - What is the issue you are having with fuel gauge? 
And I thought you said you fixed the issue in number one.

358  Camaro Research Group Discussion / Mild Modifications / Re: Converting to Console Gauges and Factory Tach: which wiring? on: June 14, 2011, 03:58:07 PM
The "conversion" harness gets you the stub that would have been installed at the factory.

Once the conversion harness is there you use the console harness to connect that console gauge package to the conversion.

In my buddy's 69 RS the two harnesses had everything to connect the gauges except the oil pressure line. In fact he thought he would need the tach harness, but that was already included in the harness.

Great directions that came with the harnesses and the http://factoryfit.com website had all the details on which console harness to get and why he needed the conversion.  

You will need to swap out the temp idiot light switch from the block for the correct gauge sender unit, again wiring in the harness already. Think he had to order that gauge sender when he purchased the gauge cluster.

Fuel sender stays the same.

In 68 and 69 console gauge sets the Oil pressure switch gets ditched for the oil line. Make sure you get a quality line and has correct brass fittings otherwise oil will flow nicely into the cockpit or all over the back of the engine. I don't know if 67 is mechanical or electric but someone here will know and drop in.

Double check tach requirements and hookups if you have installed aftermarket ignition/distributor setup. Factory tach is not happy without special filters in those setups. Factory setup work like a champ out of the box using the harness instructions.

Ammeter will work on these harnesses, unless you purchased a volt meter conversion gauge. I know AAW / Factoryfit.com make one for the 68/69 "saw-tooth" style gauges - don't know about 67's gauges. for 68/69 there is a conversion harness included with the volt meter gauge.  And they sell amp to volt conversion harnesses for aftermarket so cruise the website.

Was a fun project but took two days - could have been done in one - he had distractions left and right. Don't think a 67 would be much different.

359  Camaro Research Group Discussion / Decoding/Numbers / Re: Z10 trim plate on: June 14, 2011, 07:39:23 AM
Reserve not met. I wonder why? Smiley
360  Camaro Research Group Discussion / Decoding/Numbers / Re: Registery on: June 14, 2011, 07:17:08 AM
Kurt - on your MS-office CD there are a set of Outlook tools. You may have already installed them on the computer so search for Scanpst.exe. This is the mailbox (personal folders) repair tool. It has saved my large Outlook 2002 pst files more then once.
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