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346  Camaro Research Group Discussion / Maintenance / Re: RS Headlight Door Trouble AGAIN... on: July 10, 2011, 02:52:35 PM
Here is the reason for the 3/8" gap on the right headlight door. Its amazing how these cars can make fools out of you. The slop on the canister bracket bolt holes and the slight change in mounting position didn't allow the piston to pull the door shut.

Thanks for the help guys!
over 40 years of wear always wins. Smiley
347  Site Comments / Discussion / Site Comments/Discussion / Re: Quesiton to site moderator or managers on: July 09, 2011, 11:55:55 PM
Hey Kurt - it only happens when you post a picture larger then the limit, like dumping straight from an iphone.
Sometimes you get the error message but sometimes you do not - the session is just toast.
My68ss reported it a while back http://www.camaros.org/forum/index.php?topic=7422.0
maybe a java issue?

Brian

348  Camaro Research Group Discussion / Originality / Re: Mirror on: July 09, 2011, 06:05:28 PM
I believe all 68 & 69 mirrors were rectangular with rounded corners.
Round mirrors on a 67.
349  Site Comments / Discussion / Site Comments/Discussion / Re: Quesiton to site moderator or managers on: July 09, 2011, 04:26:01 PM
I have found with Fire Fox 4x and Internet Explorer 8x that If you try to post or reply and attach photos and the pictures are too large you get an error, but from this point forward the browser session is dead. You have to close the browser tab and reload the forum, then select the thread and try your post or reply again.
350  Camaro Research Group Discussion / Maintenance / Re: RS Headlight Door Trouble AGAIN... on: July 09, 2011, 12:24:45 AM
mine and anybody else who says "wow you got yours to work? Can you fix mine too?" LOL
351  Camaro Research Group Discussion / General Discussion / Re: L48'S WANTED DEAD OR ALIVE on: July 09, 2011, 12:20:01 AM
69Pace  Is that a hood lock with a internal hood release cable in the bottom pic?

It is a lock and ignition cut off.
Uses a barrel lock key mounted under the dash.
Push it in it kills the ignition and locks the hood.
I used to drive her to work every day in a less then pseudo safe neighborhood.
It was the best solution while I figured out if I was going to install a remote key-less entry and alarm once the restoration was finished.
That was 29 years ago LOL
352  Camaro Research Group Discussion / Maintenance / Re: RS Headlight Door Trouble AGAIN... on: July 07, 2011, 06:54:32 PM
Brian,

Thanks for outlining the proper way to lube the actuator. Nice to know there are rubber boot repops available. Guess I will have to research them as Jack brings up a good point. As you can see, mine have seen their better days.

http://secure.classichq.com/68-69-RS-ACTUATOR-RUBBER-BOOT-ONLY-P486.aspx $7.95

http://www.rickscamaros.com/camaro-headlight-door-vacuum-actuator-shaft-dust-boot-rally-sport-rs-1968-1969.html $8.99

353  Camaro Research Group Discussion / Maintenance / Re: RS Headlight Door Trouble AGAIN... on: July 07, 2011, 06:48:10 PM
I bought mine last in 1982 NOS GM on the shelf at Bristol's Chevrolet.

Classic HQ is making a reliable replacement that has a 1 year warranty and come pretested. Uses new tooling, and quality steel. $84.95  
http://secure.classichq.com/68-69-RS-HEADLAMP-VACUUM-ACTUATOR--P485C59.aspx

Rick's also selling these new tooling versions from Classic HQ but cheaper at $79.99. http://www.rickscamaros.com/camaro-headlight-door-vacuum-actuator-rally-sport-rs-1968-1969.html

Classic Industries sells a different tooling replacement manufactured by/for OER - no warranty, $79.99. And we all have our opinions of the quality of any OER product.

But a fresh set of hoses, good vacuum from your intake manifold, new or rebuilt hose bib on the headlight switch, lubed bell-cranks, and silicone lubed canisters, and PJ on the pistons and sealed dust boots make the doors as quick, and reliable as a vacuum system can be.

I love the mechanical pace of the doors on a 68 or 69 vacuum system. I find the electric conversion units too quick, and way too loud to fit the late 60's vibe of the car's design. Smiley

As to the binding situation I would check the piston connection and make sue the clip its making contact with anything, could the hose have gotten in the way? Basically look at everything you took off and put back on.
354  Camaro Research Group Discussion / General Discussion / Re: L48'S WANTED DEAD OR ALIVE on: July 07, 2011, 06:07:06 PM
Engine bay needs a little spit and polish and maybe paint.

Date: 03B
VIN: 124679N6161xx
Stamp: can't be read from the ground will revise once it is on a lift and my near sighted eyes can focus on it.  Grin  
Paint: 50 Top: A
Z11 Pace Car with Muncie 4 Speed
355  Camaro Research Group Discussion / Maintenance / Re: RS Headlight Door Trouble AGAIN... on: July 06, 2011, 05:09:35 AM
The rubber boots can be re-enforced with some quality electrical tape, or commercial grade film production black "Gaffers Tape" to repair breaks in the links.

The return spring was in decent shape on the right side door? Can you manually close the door or is it binding?
356  Camaro Research Group Discussion / Maintenance / Re: RS Headlight Door Trouble AGAIN... on: July 05, 2011, 07:59:49 PM
You can lube the inside of the actuators with high quality spray silicone.
Insert the applicator straw in the rear connector and spray a little in.
Then repeat in the front connector.
Then rotate the can clockwise counterclockwise so the rubber edge of the diaphragm inside gets covered, this is the seal on the can.
Then manually push and pull the piston a few times.
You should notice the process gets easier.

A second shot if need be but don't drown it in silicone.

Be careful if you have old cans not to dent the cans there is no way to roll the bend out.

If you find a pin hole you can seal the holes but the corrosion will continue so sooner or later you will have to buy a new can.

Piston Lube can be silicone or Petroleum Jelly. Carefully unhook the rear of the rubber boot on the piston and lube the seal on the can, then the piston.
Manually activate the piston open and close a few times to distribute the lube in the seal.
Replace the rubber boot to keep crud out of the can.
Since the rubber boots can rot and or disconnect - Replacement boots are available.

Brian
357  Camaro Research Group Discussion / Maintenance / Re: RS Headlight Door Trouble AGAIN... on: July 04, 2011, 10:31:44 PM
Marty - Glad it helped.

Are you running a reproduction valve or original 1969 valve?

I tend to see the same valve reproduction part listed as BOTH a 68 or 69 valve.
But folks who have the 68 AIM and original valves say its
shows the valve order as green on top, yellow, the red on the bottom.
But the 69 AIM states its valve is like traffic light red top, yellow, and green on the bottom.

I think this is where folks have gotten confused looking at 68 specs for 69, vise-versa

The actuators are identical both 68 and 69 so why they changed the valve who knows.
358  Camaro Research Group Discussion / Maintenance / Re: RS Headlight Door Trouble AGAIN... on: July 03, 2011, 10:27:21 PM
You can isolate the headlight switch, manual valve and the actuators of a 69 following this posting
http://www.camaros.net/forums/showpost.php?p=1578761&postcount=3

Entire thread here: http://www.camaros.net/forums/showthread.php?t=195773

And here also: A post on 68 and my posting on the difference in 69 of the hose order. It has a picture of the switch hose order and the page from the 69 AIM. Don't yet know how to post pics here. http://www.camaros.net/forums/showthread.php?t=196249
359  Camaro Research Group Discussion / Originality / Re: 814 Alternator on: July 01, 2011, 08:36:29 PM
Good to hear they did right by you.
360  Camaro Research Group Discussion / Restoration / Re: 69 Low Fuel Light on: June 30, 2011, 07:29:50 PM
Mike - don't think so as I assume your gauge in the console is using the same ground as the low fuel monitor is.
But the low fuel monitor should be getting the same oms from the tank sender and report the same levels as the gauge.

That's why it is important to test the gauge, the tank sender, and the low fuel monitor. If you get 45ohms (1/2 a tank) at the sender, and the gauge and you test the monitor and get less then 45 the wiring or the monitor itself would be suspect.  Your base line test of the sender lead in the trunk will be the only standard, assuming you KNOW how much fuel is really in the tank.  

Here is a troubleshooting I wrote over on TC http://www.camaros.net/forums/showpost.php?p=1579191&postcount=2 see if that helps you run the tests.
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