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112084 Posts in 12879 Topics by 4931 Members
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31  Camaro Research Group Discussion / General Discussion / Re: 69 console gauge/ tach question on: December 11, 2013, 05:45:04 PM
LOL yeah and I didn't mention the bloody knuckles trying to do it with the carrier in place.
Wells-Airtex makes the right calibration and connection - most parts counters should have it in stock.
Are you using Classic HQ reproductions or the internal resisted OER versions of the console gauges?
The Classic HQ are original style external resisted so you can "change/correct" the output of the temp gauge to point dead center at normal operating temp of 180. There are a few threads on TC calculating the amount of additional resistance you add tot he back of the gauge.
There is also a thread on TC comparing various manufacturers senders and Ohm's values at specific temps.

You are in the home stretch! maybe another 20 minutes for the harness.
32  Camaro Research Group Discussion / General Discussion / Re: 69 console gauge/ tach question on: December 11, 2013, 07:44:58 AM
No clock? It is part of the option and should be there to be factory correct. In any event it is your ride - do as you wish.
You can cut out the shell with the dremmel tool from the front,
but you will still need to get behind the carrier to unbolt the existing fuel gauge, and to mount the Tachometer.
It is very difficult to do from behind and underneath but it can be done, just takes a ton more time to do that way.

33  Camaro Research Group Discussion / General Discussion / Re: 69 console gauge/ tach question on: December 10, 2013, 07:55:47 PM
If you have rubber small hands you can remove the pod fuel gauge with the dash carrier in place but it is much easier to do so once the unit is pulled and on a bench. Also the template to cut the pod is usually rear facing, or if you are just using the cutout line on the plastic you need good light. The clock cutout can be made from the front. You can leave the ashtray and glove box in place - nothing to change.
34  Camaro Research Group Discussion / General Discussion / Re: Looking to get lots of photos for the Home Page for 2014 on: December 09, 2013, 10:43:19 PM
have you though of keeping the ROTM winners up all year like a calendar?
35  Camaro Research Group Discussion / Maintenance / Re: 69Z hard start, backfires on acceleration, stalls when breaking, related issues? on: November 21, 2013, 05:06:29 PM
All of the above... BUT, be careful spraying flammables on a running or hot engine.
And, make sure the choke is working right.

X 2 on the working choke and double check its adjustments. I chased my tail this month with a working choke, but poorly adjusted resulted in flooding and very rough idles until it burned off some fuel.

Also watch the paint job starter and carb cleaners eat paint off metal surfaces so use them as leak detectors with car to your new painted intake. An unlighted propane torch is also a good way to test for leaks.
36  Camaro Research Group Discussion / Originality / Re: Cowl hood and air cleaner on: November 17, 2013, 04:26:34 PM
The ignition coil bracket would also be at an angle that the straight non ZL2 hoods did not use.
So if someone just added the hood chances are they didn't swap the coil in anticipation of changing over the air cleaner.

37  Camaro Research Group Discussion / Restoration / Re: Re-coding an original door lock on: November 11, 2013, 08:34:32 PM
The short answer for a 69 and later is yes*

*locksmith has to actually be a locksmith with training and then they can match the pins in the ignition tumbler to the same as the doors.
Even easier if you have the original keys with the key code not knocked out.
Or documentation with the key codes, but they can work from the key you have if it is not too worn.
38  Camaro Research Group Discussion / Originality / Re: Glove box light on: November 04, 2013, 11:14:49 PM
Hood and trunk lights had their own harness.
For the vert the trunk piggy-backed off the license plate connection.
Coupes had a connection off the intermediate harness if I remember right.
Hood light ran its own harness to the horn-relay bus bar. 
Glovebox was a single lead from the dash harness.
The AIM does not say it is reworked so it must have been there for all vehicles, used or cut off I would guess.

39  Camaro Research Group Discussion / Originality / Re: Carb for 02E L-35 Automatic on: November 04, 2013, 11:03:54 PM
does you car has pollution control (A.I.R.?) Look at the chart and see what number carb you need.
7027210 seems right for either for mid year automatics. B7 is good date IMHO.
40  Camaro Research Group Discussion / General Discussion / Re: Where to find 69 Camaro taillight chrome trim? on: October 24, 2013, 10:34:30 PM
Classic HQ sells the lens.
41  Camaro Research Group Discussion / General Discussion / Re: December 68 Pacer on Ebay again. on: October 09, 2013, 10:37:51 AM
In theory cruise control if set in fourth will return you to that speed. The only factory Pontiac I owned with cruise had two kill switches, clutch and brakes would disengage the system. If it is a hack job and since CC was not a factory option one wonders if the brake and clutch switches were installed.If cruise is set in fourth and you were able to shift with it still engaged you would blow the engine or over rev in neutral
42  Camaro Research Group Discussion / General Discussion / Re: December 68 Pacer on Ebay again. on: October 09, 2013, 04:04:24 AM
LOL and asking questions or posting comments on the ad are disabled
43  Camaro Research Group Discussion / Maintenance / Re: 1967 Camaro Factory Tach Not Working Properly on: October 07, 2013, 08:08:43 PM
Factory dizzy with points or converted to HEI?
44  Camaro Research Group Discussion / General Discussion / Re: What Would You Do? on: October 05, 2013, 10:35:32 PM
Vince - So you have not rebuilt the shifter as suggested in this thread back in 2011?
That is where I would start.
Common for them to jam or lock out in 1-2 or miss 2nd when the old rubber bushings rot or the carrier gets sloppy.
Rebuild kits are about 100 bucks or you can send it to Hurst to be rebuilt. Also I suggest using the pit pack bushings that are steel or the hardened steel versions as the original rubber style or the later plastic ones are just bad news all the way around.

Your trans has been serviced a few times and if there was something wrong with the indents or the forks that would have been found if it is a good shop.

I've been in your shoes a couple times in the past 30 years. Always at night in less then "hey lets get underneath and see whats up" conditions.
I have been able to set it straight and get home by shutting down and going through the following pattern:

Start by learning how to double clutch.
Since you won't be spinning engine power you need to have some slight movement on the trans without grinding your gear box to scrap under engine power. 
The double clutching moves the spindle just enough to work out the jam. So clutch in, clutch out, then clutch in and SLOWLY try to pull her into neutral gate.
This may not happen the first few times so be patient and slowly move through the gates, brute force is not necessary, required or desired.

Once in neutral clutch out, then clutch in, clutch out clutch into reverse since reverse can actually be thrown while you are actually in 1-2 or 3-4 since there is no indent to lock-out for reverse in the tail like there is on 1-2 3-4 under the cover plate. If the 1-2 indent lock-out failed you would hear grinding into reverse if you were under engine power.

Once in reverse double clutch go neutral again then double clutch first, double clutch back to neutral then take a deep breath make peace with your God and double clutch second. If she grabs second you are more then likely clear of the jam. You can put her back in neutral, start it up and slowly clutch out and if you go nowhere you are clear and in neutral. Slowly crawl forward with first, then neutral, then backward in reverse, then neutral. Head home. Just be slow and steady shifting home cause the misalignment will still exist and could hit you at any 2nd gear shift you make.  Worse time I had it was about 40 minutes of footwork before she cleared.

If the jam doesn't clear the first sequence continue the pattern double clutch to third, back to neutral then up to fourth then back to neutral then reverse. Then start the sequence all over again. Eventually she will clear the jam and you can get home unless it is truly a mechanical failure.

The first time I ran into this I discovered that I had a mix of OEM factory Hurst Comp plus and Hurst Aftermarket Comp plus rods, levers and mount. The rubber bushings were also like goo. There is a difference between the factory hardware and mount and what Hurst sold as aftermarket conversion units under the Competition Plus name and you need the right set for your shifter. Once I set that straight I neglected to maintain the system and a loose lower mount bolt and sloppy bushings caused another incident a few years later when the plastic bushings cracked and bound 2nd up again.

The steel bushings, good lock washers on the lower mounting bolt and regular inspections are my defense against another incident.
45  Camaro Research Group Discussion / Restoration / Re: Re-upholstering '67 front seats on: October 03, 2013, 06:02:24 PM
It is not hard but you MUST have an obsession for details to have a good end result.
Most folks are intimidated but if you take your time, make sure you are in a warm place so the covers are supple, and have a good pair of hog ring pliers, and a set that are at an angle you can do it with no issues. Just take your time. Study the originals as you tear them down, take lots of pictures for reference.
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