Messages

16

Decoding/Numbers / Re: 10 bolt rearend

« on: November 25, 2012, 12:49:22 PM »

Thank you. Here are some more numbers from the rear face. On left is L157 on right is con 1. Do you know if these rears are all 28 spline ? I know I can open it up to find out but if I dont have to I would rather not Thanks for this info.

17

Decoding/Numbers / 10 bolt rearend

« on: November 25, 2012, 02:52:41 AM »

I have a 10 bolt rear end in my 68 rs and would like to know more about it. Is it 8.2 or 8.5 Here are numbers I took from it. Drive shaft side. con1 is on the left side fasing it from the front. these numbers are on the right side 889485nf. I would like to put in a locker and want to know weather its a 8.2 or a 8.5  I believe that it is the origanal rear end any help would be appreciated.

18

Originality / 1968 rs horn location

« on: November 10, 2012, 01:15:55 AM »

Could someone tell me the location of the horns. The car did not have the horns on it when I got it so I dont know the stock location. Thanks Scott.

19

Decoding/Numbers / 1970 1/2 need to know exactly what I have here.

« on: September 15, 2012, 10:58:34 PM »

A friend is looking at a 1970 1/2 camaro to buy and would like to know just what this car came from the factory as. Here are the vin numbers and the tag numbers. First  vin 124870L523026. Here are the plate numbers  ST 70/12487/BL/21960  TR 711 535305c724168180216. The owner of the car says it might be a z28 but the steering wheel has the rs on it. It also has a ten bolt rear end. Im not sure but I thought that the z28 had a 12 bolt rear end. Any help with this would be appreciated. Thank you. Scott.

20

Mild Modifications / Re: pollyurathane subframe bushings

« on: May 04, 2011, 11:55:21 AM »

Tanks for the replies.I have replaced the front upper and lower a frame bushings with new oem so I will stay with that.I have been looking at sway bars from diferent companys summit seams to be the most reasonable.I think your paying for the name with some of these other companys I know the old saying you get what you pay for but summit is a reputable company and I have been satisfide with preveous perchacses.Anyones feedback is always appreciated.

21

Mild Modifications / pollyurathane subframe bushings

« on: April 28, 2011, 10:22:33 PM »

I have a 68 and was thinking of installing the urathane bushings on the sub frame.Is there someone out there that has done this and how did the handeling change?

22

Originality / Re: 1968 rally sport

« on: April 03, 2011, 08:48:46 PM »

I used 3m super 77 adhesive on the back side of the moldings and it is going to work out great. It certainly beats drilling holes in the fenders and it will hold fine.I did this test on a piece of sheet stock sanded and primed.

23

Originality / Re: 1968 rally sport

« on: March 30, 2011, 12:20:26 PM »

Hello rat pack, I drilled holes for the side  rallysport emblems and installed the barrel clips only to find out that the studs on the moldings are not long enough to grab inside the clip. That being the issue I welded up the holes. Theirs no way I can get to the inside to put these on. I was thinking of grinding off the studs and trying some kind of spay adhesive on the back side of them and testing them on the primerd panel.Can you let me know how you have installed these on your past projects. Thanks  Scott.

24

Originality / Re: 1968 rally sport

« on: March 29, 2011, 10:45:17 PM »

Thanks for the info. Will be adding a locker at some point.

25

Mild Modifications / Re: Frame connectors

« on: March 29, 2011, 12:29:53 PM »

Im going to be installing those on my 68,so far the best price seems to be summit raceing I still have not desided on bolt ons or welded.You can find them in other catalogs but they are a little more money,I realy don't think theres much diffrence in who makes them.I would also like to hear some other veiws on this subject. Scott.

 

26

Originality / Re: 1968 rally sport

« on: March 28, 2011, 02:29:21 PM »

Here are numbers I took off my 10 bolt rear end. I was wondering if you could tell me what they all mean. First  CON1  GM 62   3894859nf   pa 0102g2   970 writen on shaft.  Next  62  L157  The gear inside reads 2GM 3790629   12 37 I think the 1237 means the gear ratio not sure. Thanks for any info you can give me. Scott.

27

Originality / Re: 1968 rally sport

« on: March 19, 2011, 11:35:11 PM »

Hello RatPack.  I did the jump wire test today. With the ignition on, the needle shoots all the way past full. That being the case it would indicate that the sending unit is bad. This is the strange thing. When I turn off the ignition and turn on the head light switch the needle comes all the way back past empty. What's up with that? Some other issue? Thanks again for your help.

28

Originality / Re: 1968 rally sport

« on: March 18, 2011, 11:46:04 PM »

Thank you Rat Pack I took the dash out today and foud that with the testing I did the gauge shot past full. I am going to do it again using the jump wire. I have a feeling its the sending unit. I think I pulled down the fuse block for nothing looking for shorts what a pain oh well. Tanks again.

29

Originality / Re: 1968 rally sport

« on: March 18, 2011, 10:49:57 AM »

I have a in dash gage. I have cleaned the ground in the trunk and on the sender unit. I will look for any dash ground and elsewhere thank you for your help.I will be back on it today. I will post results.

30

Originality / Re: 1968 rally sport

« on: March 18, 2011, 02:09:11 AM »

Need  Help fuel gage goes all the way to full when I turn the key to on. This is a complet body off build. At first it worked ok now this has come up. I pulled the conection in the trunk and jumped it from the power lead with a test light and it comes on dimly but also at the same time the gage goes back down. When I disconect the test light it goes back up what am i missing here? Tank you for any help you can give.