Messages

16

Originality / Shifter rebuild

« on: January 31, 2015, 10:46:57 PM »

I have a '67 SS/RS Camaro that currently has an aftermarket (circa 1979) Hurst shifter in it.
When the Hurst shifter was put in, the original Muncie shifter, mounts, linkages, and fasteners were carefully put away in the box for the Hurst shifter.   I still have it.
I am wondering if there is someone who can completely go through the shifter and rebuild it to like-new condition?  It was really sloppy and needs to be completely rebuilt.

Any help greatly appreciated.

-Rick

17

General Discussion / Re: 1969 Z/28

« on: January 30, 2015, 12:24:42 AM »

We used to be PNCC members a long time ago, but no more.  Club was good and people were great... always had fun at the club meetings and events.  Now live way out in the sticks, and it's a long drive to Portland and surrounding areas, and time is just too hard to come by nowadays.  I can't remember when that photo was taken, but i do seem to remember that the event was in Vancouver. 

-Rick

18

General Discussion / Re: 1969 Z/28

« on: January 29, 2015, 11:54:51 PM »

Here's a photo of the 1969 Z/28.  Car was purchased new at Frank Chevrolet in Portland, Oregon.  Purchased from the original owner and have all the paperwork.
Deluxe interior (black), fold down rear seat, Vigilite lamp monitoring system.  Numbers matching throughout.

-Rick

19

General Discussion / Re: 1969 Z/28

« on: January 29, 2015, 10:52:49 PM »

I usually bring the RPMS up to around 3000 to drive away in the 69 Z/28 with M21/3.73.  Requires a little clutch slippage to be smooth, but this seems to be about right.
Power really doesn`t  come on until 3500, but from there up to 7000 is really strong.
Definitely not a low-end tire burner, but very nice satisfying barks from the tires at every gear change.

Quite a big difference driving the Z/28 versus the '67 L78 Camaro!

Rick
--
67 SS/RS 4K Owned 45 years
69 Z/28 2nd Owner, 43 years POP & Sales docs
69 Nova SS  L78

20

1967 - Orphans / Re: 7L159893 - L78 short block

« on: August 17, 2012, 03:05:11 PM »

Thank you, Ed,
My erred understanding was that all California-built 67 L78 Camaros had smog and thus got the MR-coded engines. 
Are there any figures relating to how many total 67 L78 (4K) Camaros were built at Van Nuys, and what the breakdown between MR and MQ coded cars was? 
From DMV records, it appears that my car was first sold to a consumer through a Chevrolet dealer in Reno, NV, which makes me wonder why it was K19 equipped given that it wasn't sold in California.  I suppose it is possible that it may have been originally produced to be sold at a dealer in CA, but dealer transferred to Reno?  I have checked CA DMV records and there is nothing that I have been able to find showing the car in their records.  Sadly, the dealer in Reno is long gone.

21

1967 - Orphans / Re: 7L159893 - L78 short block

« on: August 17, 2012, 07:33:03 AM »

Shouldn't all LOS L78 engines be coded MR for smog?  I thought all LOS-built 67 Camaros were built with smog (RPO K19), and should thus be coded MR on the block?  My 67 L78 LOS-built car is an earlier VIN than the one posted and has block code MR and had smog (K19 on UOIT).

22

General Discussion / Earliest Block Pad Date Code LOS 67 L78 Camaro

« on: August 07, 2012, 08:54:10 PM »

I am trying to find the earliest block pad date code for Van Nuys-built 67 Camaro L78 (Engine code MR)

23

General Discussion / Chevrolet Dealer in Reno, NV

« on: February 24, 2011, 08:17:51 PM »

I have a Van Nuys-built '67 Camaro that DMV records show was originally delivered to a Chevy dealership in Reno, Nevada sometime in latter half of 1967.
I'm wondering if anyone might know the name of the dealership.  Champion Chevrolet is currently in Reno, but they opened in the late 1980's.
 

24

Restoration / 67 Manual Disc Master Cylinder Rebuild

« on: February 24, 2011, 08:22:18 AM »

The Master Cylinder in my '67 SS/RS Camaro has failed.   Rust in the bore caused the piston to no longer seal in the cylinder.
A local mechanic tried to hone it, but the rust scoring is too deep to clean up such that a rebuilt piston/seals will fix the problem.
Looks like I need someone to sleeve it.  Question is, who?  Anyone know someone that can do this right?  I've found a few places online (Karp's(CA) and Apple Hydraulics(NY)), but would appreciate info. from someone who has worked with a vendor before and had good work done.  Brakes are too important to have someone do a sub-standard job.  Some places advertise brass sleeves, with others using stainless steel.  Which is better?

Casting number is 5459467, 1" bore, with application code AD.