Messages

16

General Discussion / Re: $50k to spend on a Camaro. Which one would you pick this month

« on: October 03, 2012, 04:13:01 PM »

Perhaps I should have kept my mouth shut. After all who am I to say what wrong or right especially for someone else. Kurt would you please delete all my post from this thread?

Who are you? Someone with good practical knowledge from years of being aroudn these things and studying what you see. I think the post should stay.

To a degree every forum is a collection of experiences and YES opinions, some right some wrong but express properly there is a place for all of them. I will agree this forum is based a lot more in fact and research then most.

17

General Discussion / Re: $50k to spend on a Camaro. Which one would you pick this month

« on: October 03, 2012, 01:49:33 PM »

Shoe string budget of 50K, I'm hanging out with the wrong crowd.

I would look for a true survivor, maybe not top shelf but still original. Maybe something that needs a little TLC but nothing major. Good color if possible but original paint. If I couldn't find that then I would step down to a well maintained/repaired car that has just been kept as original as possible. Too many people get carried away in restorations and over do it, doing so many things wrong it is tough to really tell the original condition of things, essentially needing a complete redo to make it right. Next on the list would be a car complete needing restoration but with MINIMAL metal work required. Last on the list would be a car someone took apart and don't knwo what to do with now or doesn't have the skills/fundage to get it done.

I agree with VT, a Z might not be the best choice for dear old Dad, but if you wanted to buy me one it would be perfect for me and I'm a Dad.

18

General Discussion / Re: I think I had a good day at the bone yard.

« on: September 28, 2012, 07:41:20 PM »

Yea, I remember (as most of you do) when you could build an old car out of the boneyard, this trim pad is better than mine, if I take that seay back and that seat bottom I will have a tear free seat. I actually walk buy this car a few weeks ago and didn't really get into it. I was amazed the onwer manual was still in it in pretty good shape and then I looked done on the floor and thought HOLY MOLY a radio delete plate not that I need it just an unusaul find.

19

General Discussion / Re: I think I had a good day at the bone yard.

« on: September 28, 2012, 12:07:39 AM »

.

20

General Discussion / I think I had a good day at the bone yard.

« on: September 28, 2012, 12:07:08 AM »

They had a 69 Nova 4 door, that had some prestine trim screws, an extremely nice seat of seat belts including the shoulder belts and these 2 little items.

I also pick up a double pumper for $20 the base is stuck and I have had mixed results with freeing them, but it does have 2 good center pivot bowls. Haven't run the numbers yet to see what exactly it is.

21

General Discussion / Re: Pricing for a 1968 MO complete engine

« on: September 26, 2012, 05:01:17 PM »

I did not know that, I guess the ones I have seen I just assumed were modified.

22

General Discussion / Re: Pricing for a 1968 MO complete engine

« on: September 25, 2012, 11:41:59 AM »

To my knowledge Chevrolet never had a screw in stud and guide plates on production heads or replacements. I have personally never seen a set or heard this and I have been in the repair side of dealerships for almost 30 years. The did have an issue under certain conditions of pulling the studs so back in the day we did use screw ins on our own stuff when we were building heads, but we also would commonly pin the studs in place as well if it was for a moderate build.

23

General Discussion / Re: One of the most influential cars of the sixtys.

« on: September 23, 2012, 12:42:11 PM »

They have always been iconic from the very beginning.

24

General Discussion / Re: What DoesThe Term Dry Paint Mean To a Professional Painter

« on: September 18, 2012, 12:43:18 AM »

When I hear dry paint, I think of paint that does not have enough reducer/thinner in it for the conditions in the booth and it literally starts drying in the air before it gets to the metal. It causes it not to flow properly and can create a rough feel. It can alos occur if the gun is held too far away from the object. When it occurs you have a few choices, if you don't catch it soon enough stop let it dry sufficeintly and sand it off, if you catch it in time you can sometimes wipe it off and start over after a remix. It can be tough to buff out without some heavier grit paper coming down to really fine paper. As mentioned, depending on how it was painted their may not be enough material to work with. best bet, live with it or do a LOT of hand rubbing.

25

General Discussion / Re: Pricing for a 1968 MO complete engine

« on: September 12, 2012, 09:41:30 PM »

I don't believe you will get anywhere near that parting it out, but I could be wrong, I would be interested in seeing your breakdown of the value of each component. Most things are worth more parted out.

Intake            $500 at best
Heads            $400-600 maybe on a good day
Block              $2500-3000 might be high on this as well
Crank             $500
Rods/Pistons    $300
Misc Tin          $100 unless there is something I don't know
Valve Covers    $200 if nice

26

General Discussion / Re: Pricing for a 1968 MO complete engine

« on: September 09, 2012, 02:36:21 AM »

No cam, rockers or push rods pictured. No exhaust manifolds or carb from what I see. I wish someone else would give a price I am thinking I may be high for the assemblage of parts.

27

General Discussion / Re: Pricing for a 1968 MO complete engine

« on: September 07, 2012, 11:13:30 AM »

So do you have the timing cover & chain, VC, or exhaust manifolds? These items would change the price. An engine not assembled would be at the lower end of my estimate I believe.

28

General Discussion / Re: Pricing for a 1968 MO complete engine

« on: September 06, 2012, 12:49:34 PM »

The concern would be an engine that has set for 10 years even a fresh build, if it hasn't been turned regularly, like every month or so then it may have issues. Valve springs can get weak from sitting in one position too long, it happened more with older stock springs but even the new one can suffer, so the heads would have to be disassebled and the springs checked or at the least check the seat pressure. The other thing I would personally want is a cylinder inspection with a borascope if the engine is assembled as well as a full visual of the crankcase, timing chain area and lifter galley.

I would think if it all checks good then, $5-7K is realistic, with a possible premium being paid if the original car still exist and the owner is a buyer. Not talking about gouging just probably less haggling to get top of the market. I think there would also be an advantage to some if the block and heads were in the same date code build range. I know if my original T/A block surfaced I would pay the price within reason.

29

General Discussion / Re: Right hand drive ????

« on: September 06, 2012, 12:32:23 PM »

Not 100% sure but I know one of our members, Steve from Australia built a 69 and he had to custom make everything so I am guess they didn't make them or he would have just found one. I think his member name is Blackout if oyu want to search it.

30

General Discussion / Re: What's wrong with this picture

« on: August 31, 2012, 02:14:26 AM »

The car has a tach and a clock, indicating that it had console gauges, I do not see the hole in the firewall for the oil pressure line. Am I looking in the wrong place? It does appear to have the muncie hole.