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112258 Posts in 12899 Topics by 4935 Members
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196  Camaro Research Group Discussion / Research Topics & Reports / Re: Original 67-69 Camaro driveshafts - information requested about your car on: March 14, 2012, 01:07:48 AM
Finally remembered to post this:

67 LOS, 11B build, L48 w/ Pglide
49.5 inches center to center, yokes are # 3790024 rear is 280A and front 280D
U bolts, axle is PC1031G 3:31, yokes are clocked

197  Site Comments / Discussion / Test Drive / Re: Posting pictures information on: March 14, 2012, 12:57:19 AM
teeeeesting

198  Camaro Research Group Discussion / Restoration / Re: How to assemble oil line to block fitting? on: March 02, 2012, 05:47:16 PM
You have an extra nut and sleeve.  They usually include one set with the male fitting, and then both sets with the line when bought separately.  First put the male fitting in the block.  Personally I'd next just take the nut and sleeve off one end of the line (leave the small insert inside the line) and use the sleeve and nut that came with the male fitting for that engine side of the line (just in case there is some small variances).  Or you could also just remove the nut from the male fitting and use what is already on the line if they appear same as what came with the male fitting.  Run the other end thru the firewall to your gauge.  Can't remember if you have to remove nut or compression sleeve to get it thru the firewall grommet, or if the grommet is split.  See AIM UPC U17, sheets A3 and A4.  It says to coil any extra length inside the console.  Others will chime in if I missed anything.  I'd also ensure the line is good and clear before installing, and fully seated into the fittings before tightening the nuts.
199  Camaro Research Group Discussion / Restoration / Re: 1969 Hood Hinge Color on: March 01, 2012, 11:56:19 AM
If you can find some of those stainless cafeteria steamer pans for cheap, they work great on a propane turkey fryer.  Speaking of turkey, those disposable aluminum oval pans in the supermarket might also work if you have some support on the bottom.  You'd have to check and see if a hinge would fit though.  I think the only thing you can't use is iron or steel.     
200  Camaro Research Group Discussion / Restoration / Re: 1969 Hood Hinge Color on: February 25, 2012, 07:41:30 PM
Another thing to consider.  The phosphating is easy to do, but you need to have the parts clean and rust-free.  They recommend media blasting before dipping in the hot solution.  You also need a pretty big non-ferrous solution vessel to do hood hinges.
201  Camaro Research Group Discussion / General Discussion / Re: 67 power steering bracket help on: February 25, 2012, 07:29:20 PM
You may have to call around to the used parts houses.  I've used this one with success in finding odd parts, I think Bob is the owner:
http://www.camaros.com/

There are also a few others - one in Oklahoma that sells on eBay and a site called camaroland that I've never heard any word on.  Google for used camaro parts then start calling.  Steve's Camaro in CA may be able to help as well.  Also, go over to the Team Camaro site and under the steering section ask if anyone has leads.  There's sometimes guys swapping out a six to a big block etc.  Also if you see someone trying to sell a complete original engine assembly on eBay try asking if they'd be willing to sell components.  Those parts may have also been used on Novas etc.
202  Camaro Research Group Discussion / Restoration / Re: Removal the retention clips on the inner fender for wiring and hoses on: February 20, 2012, 11:55:03 AM
They really weren't designed for re-use.  I suppose you could try gently pressing the plastic studs from inside the wheel well, with something like a 2x2 or stiff tubing that only goes part way down the stud.  Others here may have a better idea.  Not sure if the repops are 100% correct.   
203  Camaro Research Group Discussion / General Discussion / Re: powerglide tranny dust boot on: February 10, 2012, 01:10:55 PM
Yep, the reason I haven't bought one and live with a very slight tear.  I'd suggest measuring the "depth" of your original and calling the place above to see what theirs measures.  I think the big name suppliers refer to theirs as a 67 T400 boot, they must be aware of the incompatability.  I'd be curious if it even works on that tranny shifter.  Maybe they copied a 68-69 horseshoe shifter boot and try selling it as also being 67 correct.  I haven't checked the AIMs to see if 68-69 autos had a different/shallower boot.

Update - I also looked at Vette boots on Paragon's site and they are much different.  I have emailed the company above asking for the depth, and will post the reply I hopefully get soon.  

 
204  Camaro Research Group Discussion / General Discussion / Re: powerglide tranny dust boot on: February 09, 2012, 09:49:12 PM
Their part # matches the correct GM number in the AIM, but I'd call and ask before ordering.  Looking at the AIM, M35/A8 and M40/A7, it appears the boot should be the same for both.  Maybe the repops aren't correct? 
205  Camaro Research Group Discussion / Restoration / Re: Install 1967 vent window glass on: February 08, 2012, 09:27:07 AM
If you go to a glass shop, ask if the handle can be installed before the glass is set in the frame.  Seems it would be much easier to do it that way.
206  Camaro Research Group Discussion / Restoration / Re: Pin on vent window handle on: February 08, 2012, 12:04:38 AM
Rather than tap, try using channel locks with the jaws wide apart.  You'll have to use a thin sheet of rubber or something to keep from gouging the handle side opposite the pin hole.  Squeeze the pin down into the hole, without putting any pressure on the glass.  I can't recall, but If it's a roll pin you may first need to compress the sides with needlenose to get it started into the hole.  If it's a solid pin with one end serrated, you want the smooth end going in first.  A small c clamp may also work to slowly press the pin into the hole.  If you do decide to tap the pin, you need to swing the glass wide open and back up the handle with something heavy like a body dolly to absorb the shock while striking the pin.  Bottom line you can't put pressure on the glass and have to be careful you don't damage the handle or paint.   
207  Camaro Research Group Discussion / Restoration / Re: Install 1967 vent window glass on: February 07, 2012, 11:22:10 PM
I'm pretty sure the only right way is to use glass setting tape.  It wedges and seals the glass into the frame.  Weatherstrip adhesive or silicone won't give you the same result and probably will fail over time.  Check with a glass shop on whether they can install the glass without having to remove the frame.
208  Camaro Research Group Discussion / Restoration / Re: Ground Strap Question on: February 03, 2012, 11:19:38 PM
If a 67 came without a radio would it still have the three ground straps?

Richard

Take a look at UPC 63/69 sheets A6 & A7 in the 67 AIM, you'll see that installing the ground straps was part of the radio install process.  So no radio, no straps.  Nor would you have the static collectors inside the wheel hub dust caps.
209  Camaro Research Group Discussion / General Discussion / Re: Brake booster question. on: February 02, 2012, 06:10:35 PM
There's probably more discussions over on the Team Camaro site when it comes to modifying/upgrading brake systems over the original factory setup.  You may want to ask around over there also, if you have more questions. 
210  Camaro Research Group Discussion / Originality / Re: Correct Fasteners and headmarkings on: January 31, 2012, 02:16:32 PM
In a perfect world there would be old GM documents still around indicating fastener suppliers each year at each assembly plant.  I think the first step is to ID the manufacturer head marking along with details of car it was on (model year, plant, Fisher build week, survivor or partial restore or fully restored, p/n, size and finish and notes like captured washers, how many required versus how many found on the car, etc).  Not to say this is always the case, but I think there may be some newer fasteners/manufacturers that have been used on so many restorations that they are now assumed to be born-with correct.  And even on a survivor a bolt could have been replaced along the years.  Another obstacle is where do we find a definitive listing of fastener suppliers and all their head markings, especially from the late 1960s?  Once that's done you could look at the identified manufacturer and see if they pass the logic test (existed in 1967-69, used that logo in that period, were they a GM supplier at that period, where their plants were located, etc).  Would require contacting the manufacturers, and there will be gray areas such as suppliers no longer in business, suppliers that were acquired by another company since then, non responsive suppliers, or lack of old info, etc).  This will weed out some manufacturers.  Then add in the knowledge of 1960s GM suppliers from our experts who were there.  You'll still have variances due to the "bin of mixed vendor bolts" they had on the assembly lines, but I think patterns will emerge as far as specific manufacturers used and their proximity to the assembly plants.  For example, it seems like the ones we can already confirm were located in Ohio, Michigan, probably Illinois and maybe California.  Unless it's a special fastener I doubt you will confirm use of a fastener made in Maine or Texas, probably not even Canada from that period, and I suspect we may be down to fewer manufacturer's than the number of logos we currently have.     
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