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Messages - dalekerr

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General Discussion / Re: Opinion needed - worth it?
« on: March 11, 2019, 10:51:53 PM »
Beautiful car. Make sure the inspector does their job, test everything!
Good luck

General Discussion / Re: Distrubtor raised to high?
« on: January 24, 2019, 06:12:42 PM »
How do I resize the picture to post? Or I can forward to somenoe to help post. email?

General Discussion / Re: Distrubtor raised to high?
« on: January 24, 2019, 05:56:20 PM »
The mechanic who removed the intake took a picture of the rear main bearing in it on his work bench is a package of the disc and a used one along with the tool to use them. I will try to post pictures soon.

General Discussion / Re: Distrubtor raised to high?
« on: January 24, 2019, 05:08:14 PM »
Yes there was already damage to the rear main, but the mechanic had replaced the lifters, adjusted the valves, timeing and test drove the car for several miles.

The machine shop claims they have  had to rebuild several motors for local dealers that were only started and test drove after the heads were cleaned with a sanding disc.

The TSB states the oxide particles off the disc are too small for the oil filter to collect, they just stay in the oil and do bearing damage immediately.

General Discussion / Re: Distrubtor raised to high?
« on: January 24, 2019, 01:30:17 AM »
A little update I trailered the car to an engine shop. After the motor was removed and inspected they called and told  the bearings were all damaged by someone using a sanding disc to remove old gaskets!

The last mechanic removed the intake and replaced the lifters, then ran the car and drove it. Next he removed the oil pan and replaced the rear seal that was leaking. He took a picture of the rear main bearing and it showed wear damage. In the picture he took it shows the sanding disc on the work bench!

The engine shop says they see this kind of damage all the time caused by mechanics taking shot cuts. I researched and most new car manufacturers have TSB about this practice.

I confronted the mechanic politely and asked if they ever used sanding disc? He basically through me out of his shop, claiming I had major issues before he ever touched my car and he did not cause any problems!
I sent him the picture he sent me showing the disc on the bench setting next to the removed bearing?

Wow, my luck will turn soon, a Saints fan!

General Discussion / Re: Distrubtor raised to high?
« on: January 09, 2019, 08:24:28 PM »
The research if have done shows the 327 small journal can be converted to a 350 by either milling the block for a large journal crank or taking a large journal crank and milling it down to a small journal. The machine shop that is doing the job assured me they have done this numerous times with no issues.

If I am being led astray please correct me. I will not be racing this car, mainly cruising.

Thanks in advance.

General Discussion / Re: Distrubtor raised to high?
« on: January 08, 2019, 11:25:17 PM »
Thanks for the replyís. I took the car to a machine shop today. They are going to pull the motor and see if it can be rebuilt again, the motor had about 2k miles on it!

If it can be rebuilt they are going to change the crankshaft to a 350 crank the motor is an ma 210 horsepower. The heads had been changed to double hump, with headers and a four barrel carb.

From what I researched it looks like raising the distributor cuts of the oil to the cam, lifters and main bearings. There is a grove on the distributor that lets oil pass to these areas.

General Discussion / Distrubtor raised to high?
« on: January 08, 2019, 03:15:30 AM »
I took my 67 327 to a local old school mechanic  to change the oil pan gasket, check the rear seal and stop a transmission leak, Muncie. I also asked him to adjust the valves.

When I picked it up, he said he took care of the leaks and it was also leaking at the distrubtor. He claimed he fixed all the leaks also replaced the rear seal.

Well the passenger side valve were now ticking? I took it back to him to check the rockers again.

Well the rear seal continued to leak and the rockers ticked. So I took it to another mechanic. He pulled the oil pan, found metal in the pan and the rear seal in backwards. Then pulled the valve covers and found very little oil coming to the passenger side  rockers? He thought I had a collapsed hydraulic lifter or another issue. Next he pulled the distributor and found six gaskets stacked  on it?

Raising the distrubtor over 1/4 inch. He replaced the lifters and put it back together. Removed all but one gasket on the dust.  We now had oil like we needed to the rockers

I have now driven the car about 20 miles, the oil pressure now goes to zero while idling and the motor is starting to sound like a deseil. Afraid to drive it anymore?

Could the distrubtor being raised have cut off the oil to the lifters and main bearings?

Sorry so long. Note my oil pressure has dropped from 60 cold to 40 psi and goes to zero after hot and idling.

Apparently I drove the car about 200 miles with very little oil coming to the

Mild Modifications / Replacement hood
« on: September 22, 2018, 01:09:44 AM »
 I want to change my hood to an SS hood. I recently drove 200 miles and picked up an original. When I took it to the body shop they sent it off to be sandblasted. When it came back it showed a bunch of waves and dents. They suggest I purchase an after market hood, said there would be to much bondo.

Any suggestions on which brands are best .
Good mark
Golden Star

Suggestions please I know original metal is always best, but donít feel like waiting for months or years to find a good used one.

Mild Modifications / Re: Radiator for vintage air? Stock or aluminum?
« on: August 06, 2018, 11:18:32 AM »
Well vintage air is installed and blowing cold. A blessing here in Louisiana, with the temps in the 90ís now. Car runs cool while driving down the road with aluminum 4 core radiator and stock fan and shroud (190). Gets up to about 220 while setting a while, I may need to put on an electric fan.

Thanks for all the help from members of this site!

Restoration / Re: 5 years later........
« on: July 28, 2018, 01:26:21 AM »
Congratulations, enjoy your new ride. Looks Great!

General Discussion / Re: 1968 Z-28 wiring problems
« on: July 25, 2018, 11:05:34 AM »
Make sure there is power to the switch on the emergency brake with the key on and the plunger in the compressed position.  When the brake is pushed in the switch should open up and ground out and turn the light on.
I fixed mine the switch was bad and the plunger clip was missing in action. I tested the switch it by running making sure it had power then by running a temporary ground test wire from the switch wire to the body.

Hope this helps.

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