16
General Discussion / Re: Is This Real or Restamp
« on: April 01, 2013, 02:01:00 PM »
there is even a 327 dist on eBay I would stay away from too...
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17
General Discussion / Re: 67-Distributor Fake or Real.... learn & stop this crap
« on: April 01, 2013, 01:52:27 PM »
you 're probably right, and i should have thought more before I posted in that manner... I think that he was either taken and believes it to be real or the distributor he has was poorly restored making it appear to be a fake... unfortunately some folks have with good intentions destroyed real McCoy parts by trying to make them appear new again...
I suspect he was going on someone else s reassurance and creditability of it being a real McCoy.. but from the photos he posted it strongly appears to not be an OEM.
There are a number of folks doing business on eBay with fraudulent parts who well know what they are doing. We see it from Cowl tags, to Vin numbers and to all the rare and Hi Perf. parts as well as to the car themselves being pushed as real just to steal some guys hard earned $$$$$$$$... look at all the fake paperwork be pushed out now... i would be more Leary of any guy with all the paperwork than one without any these days... unfortunately I would guess there are some forgeries out there that are so perfect they fool almost everyone.
BTW I have personally contacted eBay many times about items that was without a doubt fraudulently advertised and sometimes eBay did something about it and sometimes not. IMHO When it is brought to their (eBays) attention they then have a moral obligation to address the matter regardless of any disclaimers they write and post.
Also when anything out the norm appears it too brings into suspicion of fraud. After 40 years of handling, racing and working with Chevrolet parts one learns.
I had some more photos to post but they are to big and now I cannot get the photo program to reduce them smaller so that will wait for another day.
I suspect he was going on someone else s reassurance and creditability of it being a real McCoy.. but from the photos he posted it strongly appears to not be an OEM.
There are a number of folks doing business on eBay with fraudulent parts who well know what they are doing. We see it from Cowl tags, to Vin numbers and to all the rare and Hi Perf. parts as well as to the car themselves being pushed as real just to steal some guys hard earned $$$$$$$$... look at all the fake paperwork be pushed out now... i would be more Leary of any guy with all the paperwork than one without any these days... unfortunately I would guess there are some forgeries out there that are so perfect they fool almost everyone.
BTW I have personally contacted eBay many times about items that was without a doubt fraudulently advertised and sometimes eBay did something about it and sometimes not. IMHO When it is brought to their (eBays) attention they then have a moral obligation to address the matter regardless of any disclaimers they write and post.
Also when anything out the norm appears it too brings into suspicion of fraud. After 40 years of handling, racing and working with Chevrolet parts one learns.
I had some more photos to post but they are to big and now I cannot get the photo program to reduce them smaller so that will wait for another day.
18
General Discussion / Re: 67-Distributor Fake or Real.... learn & stop this crap
« on: April 01, 2013, 12:16:25 PM »
here is the OEM Distr again of a late production 69 Camaro which is actually the 1970 Camaro... notice the date.
19
General Discussion / Re: 67-Distributor Fake or Real.... learn & stop this crap
« on: April 01, 2013, 12:05:56 PM »
and another OEM Distr
20
General Discussion / Re: 67-Distributor Fake or Real.... learn & stop this crap
« on: April 01, 2013, 12:05:13 PM »
and another OEM Distr
21
General Discussion / Re: 67-Distributor Fake or Real.... learn & stop this crap
« on: April 01, 2013, 12:04:30 PM »
here is another OEM Dist
22
General Discussion / Re: 67-Distributor Fake or Real.... learn & stop this crap
« on: April 01, 2013, 12:02:58 PM »
Well I am back and just now able to post these authentic photos of factory originals for you all to observe. I will be posting some photos of OEM distributors below.
I will not disclose what I know on how to determine the fakes from the originals but if you study these you will at least have an idea of what you are looking at.
I hope it helps the good guys out without educating those that would fake them and pass them off as OEM.
I truly feel bad for the guy who gets one of the fakes and is caught up in the middle thinking it is an OEM.
If I have crossed anyone in this boat please accept my apologies as you are an innocent by stander and a victim of this as well.
_________________________________________________________________________________________________________
BTW you should know these terms and acronyms... which are sometimes incorrectly used... ( all in the name of $$$) sheezzz
OEM = Original Equipment Manufacture - the part made by the factory and or factory supplier.
NOS = New Old Stock (of OEM) - means the left over extras the factory and factory suppliers made... not new reproduction stuff.
Restored = means an OEM part brought back to new condition without changing its original integrity.
Re-manufactured = can only mean that it was an original part made into something else and disclosed as such.
Reproduction = means a newly made part similar to the OEM and often not exact do to copy right laws or lost manufacturing techniques, etc..
Fake = is a part that is not an OEM part being passed as such. Usually due to mucho $$$$$ and greed. These are the folks who hurt the hobby.
I will not disclose what I know on how to determine the fakes from the originals but if you study these you will at least have an idea of what you are looking at.
I hope it helps the good guys out without educating those that would fake them and pass them off as OEM.
I truly feel bad for the guy who gets one of the fakes and is caught up in the middle thinking it is an OEM.
If I have crossed anyone in this boat please accept my apologies as you are an innocent by stander and a victim of this as well.
_________________________________________________________________________________________________________
BTW you should know these terms and acronyms... which are sometimes incorrectly used... ( all in the name of $$$) sheezzz
OEM = Original Equipment Manufacture - the part made by the factory and or factory supplier.
NOS = New Old Stock (of OEM) - means the left over extras the factory and factory suppliers made... not new reproduction stuff.
Restored = means an OEM part brought back to new condition without changing its original integrity.
Re-manufactured = can only mean that it was an original part made into something else and disclosed as such.
Reproduction = means a newly made part similar to the OEM and often not exact do to copy right laws or lost manufacturing techniques, etc..
Fake = is a part that is not an OEM part being passed as such. Usually due to mucho $$$$$ and greed. These are the folks who hurt the hobby.
23
General Discussion / Re: 67-Distributor Fake or Real.... learn & stop this crap
« on: March 21, 2013, 07:11:37 PM »
Hi everyone. I'm Away at the moment. I will post some photos of some factory OEM 67
Distributors when i return... and you be the judge. There was a real o,ne on ebay at the time these were
Being listed for about half the cost.
Distributors when i return... and you be the judge. There was a real o,ne on ebay at the time these were
Being listed for about half the cost.
24
Restoration / Re: 1969 SS/RS 396 need pics of core support area
« on: March 18, 2013, 10:20:05 AM »
I will see if I can get you some of this info. off my 12B Car, but my car is not an RS so I am not sure this will even help? I have a buddy within my state who I can check with.
Isn't the AIM pretty correct?
Isn't the AIM pretty correct?
25
General Discussion / Re: 67-Distributor Fake or Real.... learn & stop this crap
« on: March 13, 2013, 09:48:00 PM »
here is another one... 
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=160988988494&ssPageName=ADME:B:SS:US:1123
Seller information
crazy4impalas (1105 Feedback Score: 1105)
100% Positive feedback
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Visit store:
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http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=160988988494&ssPageName=ADME:B:SS:US:1123
Seller information
crazy4impalas (1105 Feedback Score: 1105)
100% Positive feedback
Save this seller
See other items
Visit store:
Ebay Stores crazy4impalas
26
General Discussion / 67-Distributor Fake or Real.... learn & stop this crap
« on: March 13, 2013, 09:41:11 PM »Seller information
wilma99 (3253 Feedback Score: 3253)
100% Positive feedback
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Here is a 1111170 dist for a 67... but it is not as claimed. I truly feel bad for those who end up with these parts who are innocent of the fraud...
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&vxp=mtr&item=271171687314
I hate to bring the light but it seems these crooks are running ramped again on eBay... and eBay is guilty of promoting it.
for what it is worth and thats not much...
if you can't see it I will not educate the bad guys so try to learn as I have to spot these. It truly sucks to be the buyer of a big dollar item and not even have the real deal.
been there.. but if i can stop it by sharing I will.
27
General Discussion / Re: 68 z fuel pump gph
« on: March 13, 2013, 09:18:27 PM »
you could run it with the pump pumping to a gallon gas can and time it. just an idea... but you would need to be extremely careful... good luck.
ps or pump 5 gallons, timed and get an average
PPS but you should really use a true measuring can along with the stop watch. Like the ones they use for weights and measures certification.
ps or pump 5 gallons, timed and get an average
PPS but you should really use a true measuring can along with the stop watch. Like the ones they use for weights and measures certification.
28
General Discussion / Re: 68 z fuel pump gph
« on: March 13, 2013, 08:10:22 PM »
Hey Janobyte,
My thoughts are on the same wave length... I too think the 1968 Z28 302 fuel pump would be the same or close to the same rate as the 396 Hi-Perf rate (even with an 8.5 psi pressure) since they both run the same Holley carb (#3923289-DZ - [#4053] 800 cfm). I too think the 15 GPH is way to low for either of these engines. (the 15gph flow rate was based off the listed 1 pint in 30 sec. to 45 sec.)
I am thinking just like you, those High Performance Chevy engines stay hungry and you gotta feed em good.
LOL
I also think that the SS 396 did use a different fuel pump from that of the Z28 302... but that may be just the difference of SB to BB.
gpm = gallons per minute
gph = gallons per hour
The required fuel flow rate might likely be more of a factor and determination based on the engines (heads, intake, cubic inches and exhaust flows & capacities) fuel air consumption flow rates.
You probably already know this stuff but for the others reading these posts a little education (ed-u-ma-kating as some call it)
... might help understand this subject. 
I have found this information below in many automotive books...
Formulas:
air capacity = (rpm x CID)/2 (divide by 2 for four strokes, ie. 1/2 the cid)
cfm theoretical = ((RPM x CID)/3456)
VE = (cfm actual / cfm theoretical ) x 100
bsfe = fuel (#/hr) / brake horsepower (BHP) therfore => fuel #/hr = bsfe x BHP
Knowing this then.... Fuel #/hr x 6.25 #/gal = gph the flow rate of the pump
WHERE:
# = pounds
Gasoline weight ~= 6.25# at 72 F
1728 = number of cubic inches in a cubic foot (12x12x12)
3456 = 1728 x 2
cfm = cubic feet per minute
CID = cubic inch displacement, for example 302 cubic inches
RPM = maximum RPM,
VE = volumetric efficiency. VE is the relationship between theoretical air capacity and the actual air flow of the engine.
BSFC = (Brake Specific Fuel Consumption), i.e. the maximum fuel system pressure, and the pump's flow volume at that pressure.
As Chick (an expert 68 Z28 member) points out the F.A.S.T. drag racers should have some info on this.
I would also give Jerry MacNeish an email shout out. Jerry is a long time Drag racer (and I think he's quite good at it too) who runs a 67 Z28. Here is his link. http://www.z28camaro.com/
Also another good contact would be Ken Lucas, who has been restoring Camaro's at ConCours levels for years. Here is his link http://www.lucas-restorations.com/
I am sure there are more expert members here at CRG who can give you a better answer than I have. JOE
My thoughts are on the same wave length... I too think the 1968 Z28 302 fuel pump would be the same or close to the same rate as the 396 Hi-Perf rate (even with an 8.5 psi pressure) since they both run the same Holley carb (#3923289-DZ - [#4053] 800 cfm). I too think the 15 GPH is way to low for either of these engines. (the 15gph flow rate was based off the listed 1 pint in 30 sec. to 45 sec.)
I am thinking just like you, those High Performance Chevy engines stay hungry and you gotta feed em good.
LOL I also think that the SS 396 did use a different fuel pump from that of the Z28 302... but that may be just the difference of SB to BB.
gpm = gallons per minute
gph = gallons per hour
The required fuel flow rate might likely be more of a factor and determination based on the engines (heads, intake, cubic inches and exhaust flows & capacities) fuel air consumption flow rates.
You probably already know this stuff but for the others reading these posts a little education (ed-u-ma-kating as some call it)
... might help understand this subject. I have found this information below in many automotive books...Formulas:
air capacity = (rpm x CID)/2 (divide by 2 for four strokes, ie. 1/2 the cid)
cfm theoretical = ((RPM x CID)/3456)
VE = (cfm actual / cfm theoretical ) x 100
bsfe = fuel (#/hr) / brake horsepower (BHP) therfore => fuel #/hr = bsfe x BHP
Knowing this then.... Fuel #/hr x 6.25 #/gal = gph the flow rate of the pump
WHERE:
# = pounds
Gasoline weight ~= 6.25# at 72 F
1728 = number of cubic inches in a cubic foot (12x12x12)
3456 = 1728 x 2
cfm = cubic feet per minute
CID = cubic inch displacement, for example 302 cubic inches
RPM = maximum RPM,
VE = volumetric efficiency. VE is the relationship between theoretical air capacity and the actual air flow of the engine.
BSFC = (Brake Specific Fuel Consumption), i.e. the maximum fuel system pressure, and the pump's flow volume at that pressure.
As Chick (an expert 68 Z28 member) points out the F.A.S.T. drag racers should have some info on this.
I would also give Jerry MacNeish an email shout out. Jerry is a long time Drag racer (and I think he's quite good at it too) who runs a 67 Z28. Here is his link. http://www.z28camaro.com/
Also another good contact would be Ken Lucas, who has been restoring Camaro's at ConCours levels for years. Here is his link http://www.lucas-restorations.com/
I am sure there are more expert members here at CRG who can give you a better answer than I have. JOE
29
General Discussion / Re: 68 z fuel pump gph
« on: March 09, 2013, 06:23:44 AM »
Listed in the 68 Chassis man...the 68 Z28 is 5 to 6.5 psi, pressure and volume is 1 pint in 30 to 45 seconds ....the same as all small blocks.
So figure 1 pint in 30 sec. 8 pints per 1 gallon...then figure 8 pints at 30 sec each equals 4 minutes per gallon
FYI the 68 Big Block is 8.5 psi pressure
GI JOe
So figure 1 pint in 30 sec. 8 pints per 1 gallon...then figure 8 pints at 30 sec each equals 4 minutes per gallon
FYI the 68 Big Block is 8.5 psi pressure
GI JOe
30
1968 - Orphans / Re: 124378N449356 POP & INVOICE
« on: March 01, 2013, 08:05:02 PM »
Are those doc's even real? 
... they just don't look right to me... so what say you experts?
... they just don't look right to me... so what say you experts?