The picture you show is the casting number of the Tonawanda cast intake manifold, which is correct for Tonawanda built 350 4 barrel engines.  The block casting number is on the block surface between the bellhousing and intake manifold (behind your coil and distributor).

Working as a Chevrolet line tech from 1971 to 1990, I rebuilt many starters.  As far as I can remember, on starters with Aluminum noses, the noses were natural unpainted, and starters with cast noses, the noses were painted.  The solenoids were always natural and the starter frame was always painted black. My memory isn't perfect, but I did do a lot of starters.

http://www.camaros.org/forum/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=7928.0;attach=6453;image     Here is a picture of JohnZ's heat riser on his 69 Z from a post on this Forum. My L48 is the same. I don't have any pictures of mine at this time, it is wrapped up on an engine stand right now. However,  it is pictured in the assembly manual under UPC 6  C6, and on page 13 of Jerry M's 1969 book.  Hope this helps.

I don't know, my L48 doesnt have a "barrel" spring. My car was built November (11D) 1968. Maybe it is a later date or a big block thing?

boston14

It sure doesn't look like a worthwhile project to me. Already has a bid over $6,000. After you sink about another$80K into it, you still have a non-numbers matching car (without original engine and transmission) maybe worth $30K to $40K.  But some dishonest buyer will probably scrap the rust and swap all the numbers to another car to have them a "real Z10" to sell ................. what a shame.

Here's my seat cable -  the seat is pretty dirty from storage, but all original.

boston14

My 11D Norwood (Red standard interior) has a white strap w/gray heat-shrink ends like JohnZ. I can attach a picture tomorrow.

boston14

Here's mine (different angle)

boston14

Here are pictures of mine before I restored cable and bracket,
http://www.camaros.org/forum/index.php?topic=7216.msg47570#msg47570

boston14

This is a method that has worked for me for over 40 years as a professional tech.  First, fill the reservoir, start the engine, turn the wheels lock to lock, then shut the car off and let it sit to allow the air bubbles to rise to the reservoir ( about 10 minutes or so).  Then top off the fluid and repeat the process until bubbles are gone.  As Ed stated, there is no need to max out the pump pressure by holding the wheels against the stops.  After following this process 2 or three times, the air will be gone from the system and it should be smooth and quiet.  Also make sure your belt is clean and tight.

boston14

AIM UPC 11/13   B1  shows the proper way to staple the front inner fender seals.  I would guess that inner fender seals are an exception to the processes described in UPC 0 A8  .

boston14

 Edit away Marty, you don't need my permission ................  glad you're still typing away ........... 14 months and 1300 posts .......... good job 

It would be interesting to know if the Steve S. survivor car has a Flint or Tonawanda engine.

boston14

Marty, when you go back and edit your posts it makes it very hard to answer you and have the answers look like they make any sense ................ or maybe it's just me? 

I don't know for sure, but almost all the L-48's I have seen have the one bend stands. I thought maybe the ones with Z-28 stands had been replaced at some point. Or maybe that some Z-28 stands got used on L-48's during engine assembly. However, that would only apply to Flint built L-48s.

boston14

Marty - I said the left towers for a Z-28 and L-48 are different and the right side are the same.  It appears that you have a left Z-28 stand pictured in your posts (two bends).
Steve - I guess it isn't called a brake booster hose hole on a Z-28 stand since they use a separate support 

boston14