Here are pictures of mine before I restored cable and bracket,
http://www.camaros.org/forum/index.php?topic=7216.msg47570#msg47570

boston14

This is a method that has worked for me for over 40 years as a professional tech.  First, fill the reservoir, start the engine, turn the wheels lock to lock, then shut the car off and let it sit to allow the air bubbles to rise to the reservoir ( about 10 minutes or so).  Then top off the fluid and repeat the process until bubbles are gone.  As Ed stated, there is no need to max out the pump pressure by holding the wheels against the stops.  After following this process 2 or three times, the air will be gone from the system and it should be smooth and quiet.  Also make sure your belt is clean and tight.

boston14

AIM UPC 11/13   B1  shows the proper way to staple the front inner fender seals.  I would guess that inner fender seals are an exception to the processes described in UPC 0 A8  .

boston14

 Edit away Marty, you don't need my permission ................  glad you're still typing away ........... 14 months and 1300 posts .......... good job 

It would be interesting to know if the Steve S. survivor car has a Flint or Tonawanda engine.

boston14

Marty, when you go back and edit your posts it makes it very hard to answer you and have the answers look like they make any sense ................ or maybe it's just me? 

I don't know for sure, but almost all the L-48's I have seen have the one bend stands. I thought maybe the ones with Z-28 stands had been replaced at some point. Or maybe that some Z-28 stands got used on L-48's during engine assembly. However, that would only apply to Flint built L-48s.

boston14

Marty - I said the left towers for a Z-28 and L-48 are different and the right side are the same.  It appears that you have a left Z-28 stand pictured in your posts (two bends).
Steve - I guess it isn't called a brake booster hose hole on a Z-28 stand since they use a separate support 

boston14

Here's the right side.

I posted these wire stands a while back, before I restored them (http://www.camaros.org/forum/index.php?topic=7088.msg46449#msg46449).  They are 1969 L48 stands.  The left stand has only one bend and is shorter than the Z-28 stand which has 2 bends. I believe the right stand is the same as the Z-28.

I am finding this thread very interesting.  I am restoring the original air cleaner on my L48 / THM 350.  All that was left of the original sticker was an outline of where it was on the air cleaner.  Not even a hint of color. Hope this thread can tell me what color an 11D (Nov. 1968) L48 auto RS/SS 350 had from the factory. I now know I need a CO 6484584 sticker, now I just need verification on the color. Thanks for all the information so far.

boston14

Did you read John Z's technical article on ignition timing? Very informative.      http://www.camaros.org/pdf/timing101.pdf

boston14

The transmission was natural color (unpainted) from the assembly plant.

I am second owner of the 11D.  The car was never restored before I bought it in 1975 and had about 95% of it's original parts.  It has sat in my garage untouched until I started the restoration in January of 2010. The pictures in my post are of the sway bar as I received it and I am pretty certain factory original for the car.  BTW I labeled the pictures backwards, right is left and left is right....... whoops there goes the mind again  .

boston14

Steve, are the survivor cars you own all early cars? late cars? mid cars? or a mixture? is there a correlation between build date and if the hose had ribs or not? Thanks.

boston14

Marty,  I am looking for the sleeves and clamps on the inboard sides of the sway bar bushings and brackets. Thanks anyways 

Charley, I guess I was just looking for an easy way out (instead of restoring them).  What was the original finish on the clamps? Thanks.