211
General Discussion / Re: Survivor Z web site
« on: November 03, 2010, 11:18:48 AM »
The cowl in the engine pics is not a 1969. 1970 or newer??
News:
Welcome to the CRG Discussion Forum!
Classified ads are not allowed on the forum.
Show Posts
This section allows you to view all posts made by this member. Note that you can only see posts made in areas you currently have access to.
212
General Discussion / Re: tmodel66 '69 Project
« on: October 26, 2010, 11:01:32 AM »
My car, which I bought from the original owner back in 1975 is an 11D build so it has no X codes. The camera I used for those pictures is a Nikon CoolPix 8700.
boston14
boston14
213
General Discussion / Re: tmodel66 '69 Project
« on: October 25, 2010, 11:46:11 PM »
Nice pics Marty. You asked for any input with AIM references and pictures. These are pics of my detent cable and brackets. Check page 365 UPC M38 sheet A9 of the 1969 Assembly Manual. I am fairly certain mine are original to the car. 
boston14
boston14
214
Restoration / Re: 1968 smog manifolds
« on: October 21, 2010, 11:14:38 PM »
I didn't know how to insert it as a link ....... just copy it and paste it in your browser and that will take you there.
215
Restoration / Re: 1968 smog manifolds
« on: October 21, 2010, 11:04:20 PM »
Check this post; http://www.camaros.org/forum/index.php?topic=7067.0
boston14
boston14
216
Originality / Re: 1969 L48 Starter
« on: October 21, 2010, 11:22:19 AM »
OK, thanks Kurt. Now according to that bulletin, my car (Fisher body 11D build with T1120HB engine) should have come from the factory with an 1108361 starter. Then it might have been updated to an 1108420 after 12-23-68 if the previous owner had hard starting problems when hot. Now for the second part of my original question, did these starters have aluminum or cast iron noses? We know that after a re builder gets hold of a starter, it can have either and any other parts they see fit. What was original?? Thanks.
boston14
boston14
217
Originality / 1969 L48 Starter
« on: October 20, 2010, 11:18:40 AM »
When I bought my car from the original owner back in 1975, it was about 95% or so original. The car is a 1969 RS/SS 350 convertible with a THM350 trans. However, one of the items that had been replaced was the starter. I need to know for sure what starter came with the car and if it had an aluminum or iron nose on it. The starter on it now is a 1108352 with an aluminum nose (I think that is an Oldsmobile starter). Is it supposed to have an 1108338?? If so, which nose did it have? Any help on this would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.
boston14
boston14
219
Restoration / Re: French locks
« on: October 14, 2010, 01:36:57 AM »
Sorry, I forgot to post the picture..... I guess the mind does go first..... 
boston14
boston14
220
Restoration / French locks
« on: October 14, 2010, 12:57:34 AM »
I bought this set of french locks, GM part # 14081241, from my local Chevrolet dealer this week. The good news is that they are not stainless steel . The bad news is they have dimples 
. Are they showable or laughable? Any comments or suggestions about these locks is welcome.
boston14
. The bad news is they have dimples . Are they showable or laughable? Any comments or suggestions about these locks is welcome. boston14
221
Originality / Re: Chevy orange engine paint
« on: October 11, 2010, 09:46:55 PM »
Ryderfleetproducts.com carries the Seymour EN-48 (that's where I got mine). Their web page says they ship internationally. You might contact them and make sure.
boston14
boston14
222
General Discussion / Re: Carolina Blue/Powder Blue '69
« on: October 04, 2010, 11:47:18 PM »
I believe he is refering to the big ugly red CAUTION sticker which came on Fords not Chevrolets.
boston14
boston14
223
General Discussion / Re: dome light won't go out
« on: October 01, 2010, 02:59:25 AM »
In a 1969, the left door jam switch controls and applies the ground for two circuits, the interior/courtesy lights, and the key buzzer switch. In the interior light circuit, the headlight switch can also ground the ciruit by turning the knob all the way past the detent. The interior light grounds are white. Interior/courtesy lights are fed 12 V pos. at all times via orange wires. In the key buzzer circuit, the left door jam switch will ground (through the black wire) the key buzzer switch (in the steering column by the ignition lock), which if there is a key in the ignition lock depresssing the contacts will activate the buzzer. The right door jam switch only has the white interior light ground wire since the driver rarely exits though the right door forgetting his keys. 
. So if your dome light is staying on, the white wire is grounded somewhere. It could be in the door jamb switches, the headlight switch, or any of the white wires could be shorted to ground. A remote possibility could also be that the black wire for the key buzzer switch is grounded, but in that case the buzzer would sound any time a key is in the ignition with the door open or closed.
boston14
. So if your dome light is staying on, the white wire is grounded somewhere. It could be in the door jamb switches, the headlight switch, or any of the white wires could be shorted to ground. A remote possibility could also be that the black wire for the key buzzer switch is grounded, but in that case the buzzer would sound any time a key is in the ignition with the door open or closed.boston14
224
General Discussion / Re: Old pictures of the 1969 Z/28 I owned in the late '70's
« on: September 29, 2010, 11:11:54 AM »
Yes, the car was too early (9N504656) for the long 69 spoiler too.
boston14
boston14
225
Originality / Re: '69 Z/28 spark plug wire stands
« on: September 22, 2010, 10:23:54 PM »
I am finding this thread very interesting because I am just starting the restoration of my intake manifold and related parts. Both wire supports were missing and a friend gave me these. I know they are rough, but wanted to know if they were correct before doing any work to them. The car is a 1969 RS/SS 350 (L48) with M38 and no A/C.
boston14
boston14