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107599 Posts in 12510 Topics by 4812 Members
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31  Camaro Research Group Discussion / Restoration / Re: Lower windshield molding clip fittment ??? on: June 01, 2014, 09:00:39 PM
I test fitted that lower molding a couple of days ago. Now it all makes sense how the molding and the cowl come together.

32  Camaro Research Group Discussion / Restoration / Re: Lower windshield molding clip fittment ??? on: May 28, 2014, 07:50:46 PM
Thanks for the replies...............

It's good to know that the eight clips are supposed to be that loose and that I don't have another unexplainable problem to fix.

Are the end clips supposed to fit loose also?

It's been a few years since this car came apart and I didn't realize that it was the cowl vent that made the trim tight.

And yes, I knew about the mounting holes for the end clips. I remember getting those screws out!

33  Camaro Research Group Discussion / Restoration / Lower windshield molding clip fittment ??? on: May 28, 2014, 04:54:52 PM
I am re-installing the mounting clips into my '68 lower windshield molding after having had all my moldings polished and the clips glass bead blasted and painted. These are the eight major clips plus the two clips that go on each end. I am very suprised by how loose they all fit now. I would have thought they should be pretty snug.

 This is the original molding and the original clips that came down the assembly line with the car. It has been a few years since I removed the clips and don't remember how tight they were taking them off........Nothing has changed except for the polishing and bead blasting

 The eight major clips are loose enough that if you turn the molding up vertically, the clips will slide right down. The two end clips are loose enough that they can be rocked side to side a little bit while sitting inside the molding.

 Should these be this loose or is something wrong here?......And if someting is wrong, how do I fix it?


34  Camaro Research Group Discussion / Restoration / Re: Need glass installer in Central Florida on: May 27, 2014, 11:13:52 AM
John, thanks for your reply.

Are you saying that any one of these hundreds of glass shops should be qualified to do this job?......including using the dam?......including setting the glass at the right height so that the window moldings fit correctly?

I didn't know if this was a case where you have to find an "old school" guy who is experienced with old cars to get this done correctly.

35  Camaro Research Group Discussion / Restoration / Replace bearing races supplied with new rotors ??? on: May 26, 2014, 01:52:13 PM
I have new brake rotors from Right Stuff Detailing for my '68.......I also have new Timken wheel bearings.

The new rotors came with both outer wheel bearing races pressed in. The new Timken wheel bearings also include the outer races.

My question is.........should the races that came with the rotors be discarded and the new Timken outer races pressed in keeping the entire bearing Timken (and Timken quality).......or would the races that came with the rotors be just fine to use?

36  Camaro Research Group Discussion / Restoration / Need glass installer in Central Florida on: May 26, 2014, 01:08:21 PM
Does anyone know of a qualified glass installer in the Orlando or Central Florida area who can do a windshield and rear window installation using the "dam and urethane" method as opposed to using the butyl strip?

37  Camaro Research Group Discussion / Restoration / Re: Choosing the correct window molding clips ? on: May 26, 2014, 12:48:16 PM
Darrell.......thanks for pictures and the Ebay links.

I still want to try the Auveco clips before using another brand.

Can anyone comment on where to get the correct Auveco front and rear clips?

I called Auveco and they could not tell me which of their clips were correct for the '68 camaro coupe.

They do have a GM part number cross reference with each of their clips and they said that's what I would have to go by.  I see in the Ebay ad for Darrell's front window clips, they were CHQ brand and had a GM cross reference number which I could match to a clip in the Auveco catalog. The brand or a GM cross reference number was not given in the ad for his rear clips.

Even if I can find the GM part number for the rear clips, I would still need to know where I could buy them. For all the people in past posts who recommended Auveco clips, they had to buy them somewhere.

38  Camaro Research Group Discussion / Restoration / Choosing the correct window molding clips ? on: May 22, 2014, 10:30:37 AM
I want to make sure I am getting the correct windshield and rear window molding clips for my '68 coupe.

I know you can order them out of just about any catalog but I have read several posts that recommend going with Auveco clips. When I look in Auveco's catalog, they show many different GM front and rear window clips. They do not give specific models or specific years. All they say is something like "GM 1967-- On, GM 1965 - On, GM 1968 - On, and like that.

I can't tell from that which one would be correct for my car. Any suggestions?
Also, I have a mystery with the rear window clips I pulled out of my car. The don't look like any of the clips shown in the catalogs Mine look like this.....with a serrated edge on one side of the slot.......

All the ones in the part catalogs look like this.......

I know that the rear window on this car was pulled and re-sealed in the late 70's. Is it possible the glass shop back then just used what they had on hand and that the original clips from the factory should have looked like the ones in the catalog?

39  Camaro Research Group Discussion / Restoration / Re: Rust on galvanized parts on: March 24, 2014, 07:17:14 PM
If you use the Evaporust on galvanized......after the Evaporust had done its job......what is left on the surface where the rust was? Galvanizing or bare metal?

Either way, if you just spray it with Boeshield afterwards, just doing that will protect it for years to come?

40  Camaro Research Group Discussion / Restoration / Reproduction glass with "LOF" and date codes etched. on: March 24, 2014, 03:31:01 PM
Does anyone know of any other reproduction glass company besides Pilkington Classics that will etch the original LOF logo and date codes on their glass?

I know Rick's offers it but I believe they get it from Pilkington. I am not sure on that though.

I am having some problems with door glass I got from Pilkington and I am in a discussion with them now about it. Knowing if you can get the date codes and LOF from another company that makes quality glass might affect my final decision on what I am going do.

41  Camaro Research Group Discussion / Restoration / Rust on galvanized parts on: March 20, 2014, 09:18:12 PM
Wondering what is the best way to treat surface rust on galvanized parts. Parts such as the rocker pinch weld covers, the front and rear headliner strips, and window tracks and attachments.

All of these things are hidden and I don't care how they end up looking. Preservation is my only goal.


42  Camaro Research Group Discussion / Restoration / Help identifying heater box part on: March 07, 2014, 11:03:31 PM
Can someone tell me what the purpose of this part is inside the heater box. There are two of them. They are made of fairly stiff rubber. The part of it you see exposed behind where the heater core goes is the smaller part of it. The larger part is hidden in the cold air passageway behind the heater core housing. My guess is that they helps control the airflow through the cold air passageway or maybe is some sort of damper between the heater core housing and the outside of the heater box.

The reason I am asking is that I destroyed one of these while cleaning my heater box. I don't see these in any of the catalogs and assume they are unavailable. I am going to make something similar to replace it and it would help if I knew what it was supposed to do.


( I hope Paulmanta doesn't mind me using the picture of his heater box for this )

43  Camaro Research Group Discussion / Restoration / Re: Wiper transmission reburbish and paint prep ??? on: February 28, 2014, 11:01:10 AM
Thanks for the replies so far.

Bob, your wiper transmission looks great..........If you soak the entire assembly in Evapo-Rust, when it gets inside the rotating posts (that the wiper arms connect to), doesn't that have any affect on the bearings and lubricant or whatever is in there?

When you say you "disassembled what could be removed", is there anything you can diassemble besides the ball and socket joint (bolted together) that connects to the wiper motor?

44  Camaro Research Group Discussion / Restoration / Wiper transmission reburbish and paint prep ??? on: February 26, 2014, 11:56:37 PM

Wondering what people ususally do with these. I need to get my wiper transmission ready to go back in the car.

One of the three ball and socket joints has excessive play in it. The other two seem to be fine. How would you tighten that one back up?

How do you clean and re-lube the three ball and sockets joints without drilling out the rivets and opening them up......or should you drill out the rivets and replace them later?

The rotating posts that the wiper arms go on turn ok but there is a small amount of resistance. You can turn them easily by hand but the are not free spinning............Is that normal?.........Do these need to be re-lubed or just leave them alone?

How do you clean the whole assembly and prep for paint. I have surface rust, factory paint, and old paint job overspray on mine. I don't want to bead blast them for fear of getting media in the joints. Just do the best you can by hand?


45  Camaro Research Group Discussion / Restoration / Door, door window, door window weather strip fitment ??? on: February 09, 2014, 04:41:38 PM
When my '68 doors are completely assembled, I will have my original GM door inner structures, new door skins, new glass, and new inner and outer weather strips.
My question is......when the window is in the up position, how are the door, the door glass, and the weather strips all supposed fit together properly to keep water out..... With the door having been altered and all the other stuff being repro, I don't know what is right or what might be wrong here.

First off, the opening in the door that the glass passes through is not even in width from front to back. The inside edge of the opening is straight.....The outside edge of the opening is curved outward.....So the opening is wider in the middle.....And then the window is curved.

The first part of my question is how much curvature should there be in the window?......should the curvature of the window and the curvature of the outside edge of the door opening be exactly the same?.......When I hold my original window inside the door in the up position and pull it tight to the outside edge of the opening (no fuzzies installed), it touches on the ends and there is an 1/8 gap in the middle........Is this correct or should the window have full contact with the outside edge of the door the entire length?......If that 1/8 inch gap in the middle is right, the outer fuzzies would have be pretty thick to fill that gap. The PUI repros I have right now are not thick enough to do that !

The second part is....... since the inside edge of the window opening in the door is straight and the window is curved outward, how does a straight inner fuzzie maintain full contact with a curved window? .....It would have to be wide enough and flexible enough....being more compressed on the ends.... Is that right?

I just want to make sure everything seals up the way it should. I want to be sure that outside curvature of the top of my doors wasn't altered by installing new door skins.

An added note....I just received new glass from Pilkington Classics. Both door windows have less curvature across the length where it meets the weather strips than my originals. So the 1/8 inch gap I mentioned above would grow even larger if I used these windows. I sent Pilkington an e-mail on this and am waiting for a reply.

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