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106642 Posts in 12433 Topics by 4791 Members
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151  Camaro Research Group Discussion / Restoration / Re: Choice for control arm and subframe to body bushings ??? on: July 13, 2012, 07:44:06 AM
Yes I did...... That is where I got all of the different opinions.
152  Camaro Research Group Discussion / Restoration / Choice for control arm and subframe to body bushings ??? on: July 12, 2012, 08:32:31 PM
I am needing to choose my upper and lower control arm bushings and my subframe to body bushings for my '68 coupe. I am going to be using the basic Hotchkis TVS system, using my factory control arms.

I am looking for some compromise of good, solid handling and being able to cruise in relative comfort. I read through a bunch of old posts on this subject and came away being more confused than on the right track. There seems to be a lot of mixed opinions out there. Some of these posts were pretty old so maybe there is better information out there now.

The choices out there seem to be original style rubber, polyurethane, polygraphite, Delrin, (and solid for the subframe to body)

I know the original rubber deflects but some folks said their car handles fine with them.

I hear all the stories about polyurethane squeaking. I DO NOT WANT TO HEAR SQUEAKING WHILE I AM DRIVING! But some folks said they have  the polyurethane and haven't heard the first squeak.

I read where polygraphite gives the performance of polyurethane but does not squeak. I looked through every Camaro parts catlog and Jeggs and Summit and never saw a "polygraphite" bushing anywhere.

Some folks thought the Delrin transmitted more noise and vibration while others said they installed them and noticed no difference. Some said because the Delrin allow the control arms to move more freely, they actually allowed the suspension to work better and improve the ride quality.

Some folks liked the Moog rubber bushings. Here is an intersting quote from Moog about their bushings......."Moog bushings are designed to absorb vibration and noise and deliver better handling while providing the performance of urethane without the “squeak” normally associated with it. They are not affected by oils, alkalines, ozone or hydrocarbons; can withstand extreme weather conditions; can carry substantial loads; and will not discolor or crack with age." .......That sounds good and they are  pretty cheap through Rock Auto.

When I was done reading, I wasn't any closer to knowing what to pick than was before I started.

Just wondering if there are any more up to date opinions on what to choose given the kind of ride I am looking for?

               Thanks.....Dave
 

153  Camaro Research Group Discussion / Restoration / Auto Parts Warehouse - feedback, opinions ? on: July 11, 2012, 01:51:12 PM
Has anyone had any experience with Auto Parts Warehouse ? ( autopartswarehouse.com ) I am needing to order some parts and they are quite a bit cheaper than most on what I need.

I have read reviews on them online and they are quite mixed. Just wondering if anyone has ordered from them and how the experience was?

Thanks,
Dave
154  Camaro Research Group Discussion / Restoration / Re: Choice for compressor, blast cabinet, paint gun ??? on: July 09, 2012, 07:53:31 PM
Lynn....Thanks for the reply,

The things I am looking to clean and paint are things such as suspension components, brake calipers, pulleys, brackets and odd and ends like that. All of these things have some combination of rust, grease, and old paint on them

I have have tried hand scrubbing with degreaser, soaking stuff in de-rusting solutions, and paint stripper.  And none of them are doing the job on tough stuff! I'll be an old man by the time I finish it all the way I am doing it now......If I had to start and stop because of a low powered compressor, that's still better than what I am doing now............ I want to be able to spray the parts with 2K paints for durability and not paint from a spray can.

I know I can probably farm it all out but would rather do it myself....... My end gaol is to strip these parts to be ready for paint and then put a quality, durable paint on them.

The only place I have to work on my stuff, I do not have access to a 220V hook up................Any other ideas out there on how to accomplish this?

                          Thanks........Dave
155  Camaro Research Group Discussion / Restoration / Choice for compressor, blast cabinet, paint gun ??? on: July 08, 2012, 02:02:44 PM
I am needing some recommendations...... After trying different methods of de-greasing, de-rusting, and paint removal on many small parts of my '68 (all being time consuming and not all of them being very successful), I am thinking a blast cabinet for cleaning and prepping parts would be the way to go.

So I would be needing a blast cabinet and a compressor. And since I would now have a compressor, I would also want to tackle some small paint work. Primering and finish painting these small parts.

So I would need recommendations on:  A blast cabinet. Harbor Freight has a couple on sale now.

                                                         A compressor capable of powering a blast cabinet and also running a paint gun that I could
                                                         primer and finish paint bunches of small parts. ( It would need to run on 110 volts house current)

                                                         A paint gun for the above.

I don't need anything elaborate. Pretty much the minimums for accomplishing the above. I have been reading up on compressors trying to educate myself a little. The two blast cabinets at Harbor Freight require 9.5 cfm @ 90 psi or 10 cfm@ 100psi.

Any recommendations would be appreciated.................Thanks, Dave
156  Camaro Research Group Discussion / Restoration / Re: Stance using the Hotchkiss TVS ( Pictures available??? ) on: July 07, 2012, 11:41:21 AM
Yes, the shocks are removed.
157  Camaro Research Group Discussion / Restoration / Stance using the Hotchkiss TVS ( Pictures available??? ) on: July 05, 2012, 12:44:18 PM
I am pretty certain that I'll be going with the Hotchkiss TVS system for my '68. Before I do though, I would like to get an idea of what the stance will look with it installed.

Has any one installed this system ( 1 1/2 inch or 3 inch drop leaf springs) on a '67 or '68 and has a profile picture of your car showing the stance and the distance between the top of the tires and the top of the wheel opening. If you didn't have a picture, could tell me the distance between the top of your tires and the top of your wheel openings front and rear.

On my car, for some reason right now, there is a 5 inch space between the top of my rear tires and the top of the wheel opening. The car is just rolling shell. No interior, no front end sheet metal, no engine or transmission. Just the empty shell sitting on a bare subframe. Looking back at pictures of the car when it was whole and running, it did not sit up nearly that high in the back. For a car in this state is it normal for the back end to sit up that high when most of the weight removed from the car was from the front end?

I bring this up wondering if I would need the 1 1/2 inch or 3 inch drop leafs in the back.

Thanks............Dave
158  Camaro Research Group Discussion / Restoration / Re: Two piece brake rotor replacement. on: July 04, 2012, 11:15:16 AM
I've driven my daily driver car and many others with drums and rotors turned way past the specs and never had a problem.  If you're driving so close to the edge that a few thousandths of an inch mean life or death, I'd take a bus.
I have no idea how significant those few thousandths are. Some feel it could be dangerous and other don't...... I would think, however, that the manufactureres build some extra margin into those minimum specs just to cover themselves............How do you get yours turned past the minimum? Do you take them to a shop and they do it regardless of the fact that they are going past the minimum?
159  Camaro Research Group Discussion / Restoration / Re: Two piece brake rotor replacement. on: July 03, 2012, 06:21:41 PM
I agree about going below the minimum. This car will be a fair weather driver and I hope to drive it a lot. I am going to get a one piece replacement for now. I will keep my originals tucked away.
160  Camaro Research Group Discussion / Restoration / Re: Two piece brake rotor replacement. on: July 03, 2012, 11:55:24 AM
Dave, the 5100 works fine. Just be forewarned that you may have to get a couple of them before you find two that don't interfere with the caliper. You can also try the 5514 since that's the number AutoZone shows. O'Reily shows the BrakeBest 5100RGS and AutoZone shows the Duralast 5514, so maybe they've changed the hub a little on the 5514 to make it fit. I don't know.

However, do you still have enough meat to turn your originals? The "official" specs are .965" minimum but lots of folks have run them with up to (or as little as) .935" to .940".

Ed

I measured my rotors and they measure out at .950 and .955 inches. Would a shop turn them if they are already past the minimum?

I removed the bolts connecting my original hub to the rotor before I realized I would go with a one piece replacement. I tried to separate the rotor and hub with no success. I can't say I tried real hard for fear of damaging them. If they ever did make just the rotor part and I wanted to use my original hub, what's the best way to separate the hub from the rotor? I am assume they are rusted together.
161  Camaro Research Group Discussion / Restoration / Re: Two piece brake rotor replacement. on: July 02, 2012, 10:29:44 PM
When I read that about the factory balancing, the person that wrote it said that they saw that in the "68 Chassis Service Manual. I don't have one of those. If someone does, it would be interesting to see what it says.
162  Camaro Research Group Discussion / Restoration / Re: Two piece brake rotor replacement. on: July 01, 2012, 06:36:01 PM
First off, thanks to all that responded and all the comments and ideas.

I guess right now, no one is making just the rotor part of the original two piece hub / rotor assembly for a '68 with a four piston caliper. I believe I will get a one piece replacement for now but hang on to my originals in case just the rotor part becomes available in the future. The reproduction two piece assemblies are a little more than I can put into the brakes right now.

I have read where the orignial two part assemblies were balanced at the factory by drilling holes in them. I am attaching a picture of one of my originals. One of them has five holes drilled in it and the other has none.........Even if just the rotor part becomes available in the future, I don't know where you would go to have this kind of balancing done.

All that being said, can any one recomend a good one piece replacement. I see them all over the place from very cheap to very expensive.

Thanks..........Dave
163  Camaro Research Group Discussion / Restoration / Paint choice for subframe and a-arms ? on: June 28, 2012, 08:05:26 AM
I am looking for a 2K paint for my subframe and a-arms. I definitely want a 2K for durability.

 I just recenty saw a frame painted in SEM Hot Rod Black and it was a little too flat for me and almost looked like a very, very dark gray rather than deep black. I don't want gloss but something that looks jet black with a little more sheen than what I saw on the Hot Rod Black. The best way I can describe the gloss level I want is something with a nice "glow" to it if that makes any sense.

Any suggestions would be appreciated.........Thanks, Dave
164  Camaro Research Group Discussion / Restoration / Two piece brake rotor replacement. on: June 27, 2012, 09:02:11 PM
I need to replace the original two piece rotors on my '68 that uses the four piston calipers.

Does anyone know if anyone is making just the rotor section of the two piece originaI?.......................... I would like to find just the rotor part and keep the original hub. In another post I had put up, "tmodel66" had responeded the he found these on Amazon.com (Bendix part # PRT1213) but is using them on a "69. Amazon asks for your car info to make sure a part fits your car. It will say "yes" for a '69 but "no" for a '68. Maybe they work with the '69 single piston caliper but not the '68 four piston calipers.

I read a lot of old posts on this but most are pretty dated now. I know you can get the entire two piece (rotor and hub) in reproduction now. Just wondering about the rotor part by itself.

                   Thanks....Dave
165  Camaro Research Group Discussion / Restoration / Re: Where to buy new steering and suspension components ??? on: June 19, 2012, 09:23:19 PM
I am just gettin back to this thread I started about three weeks ago.......thanks for all the input so far. I had asked about the best place to buy the following parts for my '68.
 
Ball joints
Spindles (maybe)
Tie rod ends
Tie rod adjusting sleeves
Pitman arm
Idler arm
Rotors
Wheel bearings

I posted this question on TC as well. There were alot of different ideas given. From all the responses (and I know not everyone agreed) it seems the majority of people felt that...........

Moog, if made in the USA, is the best quality but do not look like the originals.

Rock Auto is the best place to buy Moog made in the USA parts.

Moog parts that are not made in the USA will be lesser quality than those that are.

Anything coming out of China will be poor quality.

When I see QS900 / ISO cert stuff in the description, that means made in China.

Anything that is correct in orignal appearance is made in China
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Looking through the parts catalogs, it seems that anything that is stated to be correct in original appearance is made in China.
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I would like to have original looking parts but not at the expense of durability or safety.

So my question now are.........Has anyone bought original looking off shore parts that failed on them? Does "China" automatically equate to poor quality?

Does anyone know of original looking parts that are USA made and good quality?


Thanks........Dave

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