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151  Camaro Research Group Discussion / Restoration / '68 taillight bezels won't fit properly. on: March 21, 2013, 09:51:06 PM
I am having trouble with the fitment of the taillight bezels on my '68. I have a reproduction tail panel and OER bezels that were bought new in 2001 and stored away until now. The studs on the taillight bezels fit the holes in the tail panel OK. The problem that the bezels do not sit tight to the tail panel at all four corners at the same time. Also, the curvature of the bezel from top to bottom does not match the curvature of the tail panel exactly.

No body work or metal shaping work has been done on the tail panel since it was installed. The worst side is the passenger side where, when three corners of the bezel touch the tail panel, the fourth corner is sticking out a 1/4 inch. (See the picture. Three corners are touching. You can see the shadow being cast by the lower , left hand corner that is up)

I am getting ready to send the car to the body shop for final body work and paint and this can't be left this way.

I am not sure if the the problem is the tail panel....the bezels.....or a combination of both.

Can anyone comment on these OER bezels that are unused but twelve years old now and if they were known to fit poorly?

Would I be better off with a new set of CHQ bezels which seem to have a good reputation?

Can a body man do anything with the tail panel for a better fit without warping it?

Any suggestions would be appreciated.


152  Camaro Research Group Discussion / Restoration / Re: Interior parts suppliers on: March 17, 2013, 02:02:35 PM
I am not meaning to hijack the thread but I have a question and JKZ27 might find the answer useful also. When Al Knoch restores a door panel, what parts of the original door panel remain and what is new. I have a '68 deluxe door panel which is made up of the heavy cardboard backing that has a 2 inch wide metal strip running across the top. I am assuming there is foam between the carboard backing and the vinyl covering.


153  Camaro Research Group Discussion / Restoration / Re: Vigilite Light Monitoring System Fiber Optic Cable on: February 21, 2013, 03:21:43 PM
Several years ago, I went to the junkyard and raided some fiber optic cable from some 70's or 80's Cadillacs. The cable used for the rear monitor of the Cadillacs was identical to that used in the  rear monitor of my '68 Camaro. I don't know if any of those Cadillacs exist in the junkyards anymore. The attached photo is of cable I took from the Cadillacs.

154  Camaro Research Group Discussion / Restoration / Re: Body filler questions on: February 19, 2013, 06:24:15 PM
Thanks for everyone's replies.
155  Camaro Research Group Discussion / Restoration / Body filler questions on: February 13, 2013, 06:00:00 PM
This is my first real use of body filler and I have some questions. Right now I am trying to do cosmetic work on parts that are sound but have pitting in them. My subframe, a-arms, front bumper brackets, and things like that.

1) I am trying to get the mix ratio of hardener right. I did some experimenting. The first two times, I added too much and it set up too fast. The third time, I had about three minutes to spread it before it started to set up. Is this about right or should I try less hardener. Is there a standard "working time" before set up that tells you your mix is right?

2) How long after you apply the filler should you wait till you start sanding.

3) How long should you let the filler dry before applying paint?

4) How long can you leave the filler exposed before you put paint on it? Will the filler start to absorb moisture if it sits exposed too long?.......and cause problems with the paint later?

5) If you wipe it with wax and grease remover before painting, is there a certain amount of time you should wait to let it completely evaporate out?

6) These parts were already sandblasted and epoxy primered. I am putting the body filler over the epoxy primer. I am going to use Eastwoods 2K Chassis Black for the final coat........should there be a primer between the body filler and the final coat.......and if so, what is recommended?

156  Camaro Research Group Discussion / Restoration / Moog tie rod end boots won't come off ! on: December 23, 2012, 08:56:33 PM
I have new Moog tie rod ends for my '68. I want to prime and paint them. I wanted to remove the boots so I could paint under them a little ways and not have to mask off around the edges of the boot. I CAN'T GET THEM OFF! I pulled as hard as I can with my hands and they won't budge. I tried prying with a screwdriver just a little bit and that didn't work either. It is liked they are glued on........I have a new Moog idler arm and I can pull that boot right off.

I read of people getting new tie rod ends but using their original boots. They must get the new boots off somehow.

Will these tie rod boots come off?.....and is there a trick to doing it?

157  Camaro Research Group Discussion / Restoration / Re: Tie rod ends won't thread into sleeves on: December 20, 2012, 08:48:12 PM
I have tried every possible combination of putting these together with the same results. I am going to give Hotchkiss a call and see what they have to say.
158  Camaro Research Group Discussion / Restoration / Re: Tie rod ends won't thread into sleeves on: December 19, 2012, 10:56:16 PM
I understand how the RH, LH thread mix up can happen. I do have them in the right end though. Some will go in just a little, some half way,  and some close to all the way.
159  Camaro Research Group Discussion / Restoration / Tie rod ends won't thread into sleeves on: December 19, 2012, 08:48:17 PM
I have new Moog tie rod ends and Hotchkiss tie rod sleeves. I was putting them together today and am having problems threading the tie rod ends into the sleeves. When turning them in by hand, they will go in freely part of the way....then I start feeling resistance......and then they stop turning altogether. Far short of going in all the way. I don't want to apply any more pressure for fear of stripping the threads.

The threading on the tie rod ends seems to be OK. I can take the locks nuts provided with the Hotchkiss tie rod sleeves and spin them freely on to the tie rod ends, all the way to the end. There must be a problem with the threading in the tie rod sleeves.

The Hotchkiss tie rod sleeves are 5 1/4 in long and it looks like the threads on each end go in about the same distance. There's maybe an 1/8 inch not threaded in the middle where the RH and LH threads meet. That being the case, you should be able to screw about 2 1/2 inches of the tie rod end into the sleeve...........In my worst case scenario, by hand cranking it, I can't get the tie rod end more than 3/4 inch into the sleeve. Some will go in further but not all the way.

Just wondering if any one else has had this problem and what they did about it? Maybe they will go in all the way by using a wrench but every time I crank hard on something that doesn't want to go, I end up with a lot of trouble.


160  Camaro Research Group Discussion / Restoration / Re: Upper control arm shaft - How important is this surface ? on: December 15, 2012, 11:15:20 AM
Thanks guys for the info..............I have question about emery cloth. I often read people recommending emery cloth for polishing metal but no one ever mentions a grit size to use. It comes in many different grits. Does the abrasiveness of a certain grit of emery cloth equal that of the same size grit in sandpaper. If you are recommending 1000 grit sandpaper or emery cloth to polish the ends of these shafts, would I look for the same grit of emery cloth or something different?

161  Camaro Research Group Discussion / Restoration / Upper control arm shaft - How important is this surface ? on: December 14, 2012, 10:42:40 PM
On each end of the upper control arm shaft, where the bushing sits, how important is the surface condition on this area? Mine have some rust pitting. (See the attached photo with the arrow) .

I am trying to figure out if the shafts I have will still work or should they be replaced.

This is my first time redoing a front suspension. Tell me if I understand this correctly....... With the bushing in place on the control arm shaft and the bolt with the large washer put through the bushing and screwed in to the control arm shaft, the serrated edge of the bushing's inner sleeve digs into the control arm shaft and locks them together. The inner sleeve of the bushing never rotates around the end of the control arm shaft when the car is being driven.....Is this right?

If the above is true, it would seem that the surface of the control arm ends would not need to be super smooth..... Right or wrong?

Any thoughts would be appreciated.


162  Camaro Research Group Discussion / Restoration / Re: Four piston caliper re-building, stripping and painting on: December 12, 2012, 03:37:21 PM
Hey Guys.....thanks for all the info.

I am still unsure as how to rid the internal passage ways of old brake fluid, rust (if any), and any contaminants. And how to keep any rust from forming in there if they sit fro a long time prior to assembly.

Any thoughts on that would be appreciated......................Dave
163  Camaro Research Group Discussion / Restoration / Four piston caliper re-building, stripping and painting on: December 06, 2012, 05:40:24 PM
I have a '68 with the original four piston disc brake calipers which I want to bead blast, paint, and rebuild. I have the following questions:

I had them stainless steel sleeved many years ago. What would be the the proper way to prep the the cylinder bores? I don't have them apart yet so I don't know what they look like inside. Being stainless, should they be OK as is?.....Would you hone or polish them in some way?

How do you clean the internal passage ways to make sure you have all old brake fluid and contaminants out and be ready for new fluid?

Would it be better to try to bead blast them and paint them before taking the two halves apart and taking the old pistons out so that you don't get any media in the bores or internal passages? Might be hard to get good access to the inside surfaces.......Or is better to completely disassemble and just protect the bores and fluid openings? I am not dead set on bead blasting. I just need to get them clean and ready for paint.

If you rebuild them and then they sit for a long period of time before being installed an actually put into use, is that OK or would the seals start to dry out?

Any opinions would be appreciated.................Dave
164  Camaro Research Group Discussion / Restoration / Re: Problems with glass bead blasting on: November 11, 2012, 03:26:49 PM
Thanks guys for the advice and ideas.......In regards to the pressure I am using, it is 80 psi. The specification part of the instruction manual say the "working" pressure of the cabinet is 40 to 80 psi. In the operating instructions area, it says to set the regulator at 80 psi.......Should I go lower?

165  Camaro Research Group Discussion / Restoration / Problems with glass bead blasting on: November 10, 2012, 11:14:45 PM
I am taking my first shot at glass bead blasting and running into some issues. Poor visibility inside the cabinet, dust escaping everywhere, and trouble getting a vacuum cleaner to help with the visibility.

My blast cabinet is a small table top model that loads from the top.

The cabinet instructions say it has a dust port. There is a hole in the right side of the cabinet ( no attachment for a vacuum cleaner though) with a cone shaped paper filter on the inside of it. Then there is a foam filter over the paper filter. I am assuming this is the dust port. I rigged a vacuum cleaner connection over the outside of this hole. Maybe that wasn't the right thing to do.

There is also a vent hole on the back of the cabinet with a dense, what appears to be, cloth or cotton filter.

When the lid is closed and I turn the vacuum cleaner on, gloves get sucked in and stand straight out like an inflated balloon. When you put your hands in them, they are too stiff to be useable. If you take the filter out from the vent hole on the back of the cabinet, it lets air in and you can use the gloves but they are still stiffer than if the vacuum wasn't running.

When the vacuum cleaner runs, there is no difference in the visiblity inside the cabinet..... It also seems like when the gun it is working, it is pressurizing the inside of the cabinet and can feel the air blowing through the seals of the door.

There is glass bead dust all around the area of the cabinet. Top, front, sides, and back. Is this normal? I know some gets out. I checked the cabinet to see if all the joints were sealed and they seemed to be. I put masking tape on the outside of all the joints and it actually seemed worse afterwards.

Did I set this up the right and what do I need to change to improve the visibility, keep the dust from escaping, and stop the gloves from blowing up?

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