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104730 Posts in 12247 Topics by 4719 Members
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16  Camaro Research Group Discussion / Restoration / Re: Rust on galvanized parts on: March 24, 2014, 07:17:14 PM
If you use the Evaporust on galvanized......after the Evaporust had done its job......what is left on the surface where the rust was? Galvanizing or bare metal?

Either way, if you just spray it with Boeshield afterwards, just doing that will protect it for years to come?

Thank.................Dave
17  Camaro Research Group Discussion / Restoration / Reproduction glass with "LOF" and date codes etched. on: March 24, 2014, 03:31:01 PM
Does anyone know of any other reproduction glass company besides Pilkington Classics that will etch the original LOF logo and date codes on their glass?

I know Rick's offers it but I believe they get it from Pilkington. I am not sure on that though.

I am having some problems with door glass I got from Pilkington and I am in a discussion with them now about it. Knowing if you can get the date codes and LOF from another company that makes quality glass might affect my final decision on what I am going do.

Thanks.....Dave
18  Camaro Research Group Discussion / Restoration / Rust on galvanized parts on: March 20, 2014, 09:18:12 PM
Wondering what is the best way to treat surface rust on galvanized parts. Parts such as the rocker pinch weld covers, the front and rear headliner strips, and window tracks and attachments.

All of these things are hidden and I don't care how they end up looking. Preservation is my only goal.

Thanks.......Dave
















19  Camaro Research Group Discussion / Restoration / Help identifying heater box part on: March 07, 2014, 11:03:31 PM
Can someone tell me what the purpose of this part is inside the heater box. There are two of them. They are made of fairly stiff rubber. The part of it you see exposed behind where the heater core goes is the smaller part of it. The larger part is hidden in the cold air passageway behind the heater core housing. My guess is that they helps control the airflow through the cold air passageway or maybe is some sort of damper between the heater core housing and the outside of the heater box.

The reason I am asking is that I destroyed one of these while cleaning my heater box. I don't see these in any of the catalogs and assume they are unavailable. I am going to make something similar to replace it and it would help if I knew what it was supposed to do.

Thanks...............Dave

( I hope Paulmanta doesn't mind me using the picture of his heater box for this )



20  Camaro Research Group Discussion / Restoration / Re: Wiper transmission reburbish and paint prep ??? on: February 28, 2014, 11:01:10 AM
Thanks for the replies so far.

Bob, your wiper transmission looks great..........If you soak the entire assembly in Evapo-Rust, when it gets inside the rotating posts (that the wiper arms connect to), doesn't that have any affect on the bearings and lubricant or whatever is in there?

When you say you "disassembled what could be removed", is there anything you can diassemble besides the ball and socket joint (bolted together) that connects to the wiper motor?

Thanks.........Dave
21  Camaro Research Group Discussion / Restoration / Wiper transmission reburbish and paint prep ??? on: February 26, 2014, 11:56:37 PM


Wondering what people ususally do with these. I need to get my wiper transmission ready to go back in the car.

One of the three ball and socket joints has excessive play in it. The other two seem to be fine. How would you tighten that one back up?

How do you clean and re-lube the three ball and sockets joints without drilling out the rivets and opening them up......or should you drill out the rivets and replace them later?

The rotating posts that the wiper arms go on turn ok but there is a small amount of resistance. You can turn them easily by hand but the are not free spinning............Is that normal?.........Do these need to be re-lubed or just leave them alone?

How do you clean the whole assembly and prep for paint. I have surface rust, factory paint, and old paint job overspray on mine. I don't want to bead blast them for fear of getting media in the joints. Just do the best you can by hand?

Thanks.....Dave




22  Camaro Research Group Discussion / Restoration / Door, door window, door window weather strip fitment ??? on: February 09, 2014, 04:41:38 PM
When my '68 doors are completely assembled, I will have my original GM door inner structures, new door skins, new glass, and new inner and outer weather strips.
My question is......when the window is in the up position, how are the door, the door glass, and the weather strips all supposed fit together properly to keep water out..... With the door having been altered and all the other stuff being repro, I don't know what is right or what might be wrong here.

First off, the opening in the door that the glass passes through is not even in width from front to back. The inside edge of the opening is straight.....The outside edge of the opening is curved outward.....So the opening is wider in the middle.....And then the window is curved.

The first part of my question is how much curvature should there be in the window?......should the curvature of the window and the curvature of the outside edge of the door opening be exactly the same?.......When I hold my original window inside the door in the up position and pull it tight to the outside edge of the opening (no fuzzies installed), it touches on the ends and there is an 1/8 gap in the middle........Is this correct or should the window have full contact with the outside edge of the door the entire length?......If that 1/8 inch gap in the middle is right, the outer fuzzies would have be pretty thick to fill that gap. The PUI repros I have right now are not thick enough to do that !

The second part is....... since the inside edge of the window opening in the door is straight and the window is curved outward, how does a straight inner fuzzie maintain full contact with a curved window? .....It would have to be wide enough and flexible enough....being more compressed on the ends.... Is that right?

I just want to make sure everything seals up the way it should. I want to be sure that outside curvature of the top of my doors wasn't altered by installing new door skins.

An added note....I just received new glass from Pilkington Classics. Both door windows have less curvature across the length where it meets the weather strips than my originals. So the 1/8 inch gap I mentioned above would grow even larger if I used these windows. I sent Pilkington an e-mail on this and am waiting for a reply.

Thanks......Dave
23  Camaro Research Group Discussion / Restoration / Top of door curvature correct? on: January 22, 2014, 10:23:42 PM

I have new door skins installed on the original inner structures of my '68 doors and have some concerns about the curvature of the top outside edge of the door possibly having been altered by the hammer and dollying of the door skin flange.

If I place my window inside the door (no weather stripping felts installed), hold it in what would be the "all the way up" position, and then press it against the outside edge of the opening, the glass does not contact the door the entire length.

When both ends of the glass touch the outside edge of the door, there is an 1/8 gap between the middle of the glass and the outside edge of the door.......The curvature of the glass and the curvature of the outside edge of the door are close but not exactly the same.

Is that correct or should the curvature of the door and the glass be identical?

Thanks.......Dave

24  Camaro Research Group Discussion / Restoration / Re: Undercoating on inside of quarter panel ??? on: January 16, 2014, 02:29:40 PM
Thanks to everyone for their replies on this.

All of the reference pictures are great. I didn't take enough reference pictures of the undercoating on my car before it was taken apart.  They are a big help.
25  Camaro Research Group Discussion / Restoration / Still needing decent window felts for '68 on: January 12, 2014, 08:57:11 PM
I am still looking for a decent set of inner and outer weather strip window felts for my '68. My car has the belt reveal moldings on top of the doors and the deluxe interior.

I tried a set of Repops. The outside strips were terrible. The prongs on them that go through the reveal moldings and then fold over to hold it in place were not stamped out all the way and were impossible top pry up. They were unusable.

I have a set of PUI's now. PUI part number 236-1. They are no prize either. The outer strips were decent but the inner ones are not right. The bends in the 1/4 window strips are terrible. Instead of the bend being formed uniformly like the original, it looks like they took a piece that was formed flat and just squashed it with something, distorting it........The positioning of the flat stainless steel bead on top of all the inners  is wrong. It does not cover as much of the door panel vinyl as the original. About an 1/8 inch less. The bead from the original door panel strip left a permanent indentation in the vinyl and that would show if I used the PUI.

The PUI's also have a chrome or stainless bead on the top of the outside strips which is not correct but I could have lived with.

So I am wondering if anyone with a '68 deluxe interior and reveal molding combination had found a good set of these that look and function like originals.

Thanks.....Dave












26  Camaro Research Group Discussion / Restoration / Re: Door weather stripping contact area......is it enough??? on: January 11, 2014, 11:07:15 AM
I was hoping someone would chime in on this.

Looking back at reference pictures I took as my car was coming apart, it looks like the original weather stripping on the back edge of the door (where it contacts the quarter panel) had about a 1/4 inch contact area.

The 1/8 inch contact area I have now doesn't seem like much, especially if the seal loses it's "spring" over time.

After all the time and money spent on this project, I can't have a car the can't keep water out. If  need to do something about this, I need to do it before the car is painted and past the point of no return.

Any thoughts would be appreciated.

Thanks.........Dave
27  Camaro Research Group Discussion / Restoration / Re: Fender, fender extension to front valance alignment ??? on: January 11, 2014, 10:45:07 AM
Thanks for the responses and suggestions so far.

I did a little experimenting to find out which of the three pieces (AMD fender, GM fender extension, or GM valance) might be the culprit.

As it was suggested, I am certain it is the AMD fender that is not shaped right where it meets the top of the valance.

I lined up the valance I am using (the black one) so it was completely flush the fender extension. When you do that, the top corner of the valance sticks out a quarter inch past the fender and it also about an 1/8 inch lower than the fender. Exactly the same results on both sides.

As a double check, I took the original GM valance from my car that I am not using ( the beat up blue one  ) and put that on the car lined up completely flush with the fender extension. The results were exaclty the same.

As a triple check, I took an old GM fender and GM fender extention I had and bolted them together. Then I took the valance I am using and checked the fit against those. The fit was perfect!. The valance was flush to both the fender extension and fender the entire length. ( I have no pictures of that ).

Scott, to answer your question, yes, the car is still at the body shop. We have talked about different solutions but some second opinions can't hurt.........So I am wondering if anyone else has had this problem and how they remedied it?

Just some info to throw in, my headlight bezels fit pretty good into the AMD fenders as they sit now. If the fender gets reformed by pulled down and forward to meet the valance when the valance is lined up properly with the fender extension, the bezel is going to fit worse. Too much space height wise.

Thanks..........Dave











28  Camaro Research Group Discussion / Restoration / Re: Undercoating on inside of quarter panel ??? on: January 08, 2014, 09:21:57 PM
Thanks for the responses.  OK, now I know there is no harm in doing this. So the next this is choosing the right product. I now there are things you can spray from a can and stuff you shoot from a gun. Is there there stuff in a can that looks original and will last or should you definitely spray something from a gun?
29  Camaro Research Group Discussion / Restoration / Undercoating on inside of quarter panel ??? on: January 08, 2014, 03:25:54 PM
I am debating whether to try to replicate the factory undercoating that came on the inside of my original quarter panels and trying to look at the pros and cons.

Would having it in the trunk area help keep noise out of the passanger compartment?......I want my passenger compartment to be quiet as it can possibly be. .........On my original quarters, the sound deadener ran from near the tail panel all the way forward of the wheel house to the area covered by the rear seat side panel. I can put Dynamat or similar in the side panel area but don't want anything like that showing in the trunk.

Right now, with no sound deadener on the inside of the quarter panel, if you tap on it from the outside, it sounds like the Tin Man from the Wizard of Oz.......I hate that tinny sound.

My only concern about it was being told moisture could get behind it and cause rust. It would going on top the DP90 primer that is on the inside of the quarter panel now. I could see rust on my original quarters right where some of the factory undercoating had flaked off making me think that it's a possibility.

If I decide to do this, can anyone recommend what to use that would deaden the sound and look original?

Thanks.................Dave



30  Camaro Research Group Discussion / Restoration / Door weather stripping contact area......is it enough??? on: January 07, 2014, 08:59:29 PM
I am hoping my doors are going to be water tight.

The body is close to the end of the building stage getting close to paint. All the panel alignment on the sides of the car has been done. My car has new quarters, new door skins on my original shells, and new fenders. I decided to test fit my new weather stripping (Metro Super Soft) on the doors. I hope I don't regret not doing this earlier.

After putting in the weatherstrip, I wanted to make sure I was getting a good seal on all three sides of the doors. I took a three inch wide piece of paper and kept closing it in the door and pulling on it to see how much resistance was there. I started at the top of the front of the door and kept moving it around the door until I got to the top of the back of the door.

The results were......on the front and bottom of both doors, the seal is very tight with a lot of resistance when I pull on the paper. The back of both doors is a different story. There is resistance, but much less than on the front and bottom. I wet the surface on the quarter panel where the back of the door weatherstrip contacts it. I closed and opened the door and looked to see how much of the weatherstrip was wet..........There is only 1/8 of an inch of contact area.

So my question is...is this enough? We can't move the doors back any further to increase the contact area.

Thanks......Dave

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