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103547 Posts in 12176 Topics by 4697 Members
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136  Camaro Research Group Discussion / Restoration / Re: Two piece brake rotor replacement. on: July 04, 2012, 11:15:16 AM
I've driven my daily driver car and many others with drums and rotors turned way past the specs and never had a problem.  If you're driving so close to the edge that a few thousandths of an inch mean life or death, I'd take a bus.
I have no idea how significant those few thousandths are. Some feel it could be dangerous and other don't...... I would think, however, that the manufactureres build some extra margin into those minimum specs just to cover themselves............How do you get yours turned past the minimum? Do you take them to a shop and they do it regardless of the fact that they are going past the minimum?
137  Camaro Research Group Discussion / Restoration / Re: Two piece brake rotor replacement. on: July 03, 2012, 06:21:41 PM
I agree about going below the minimum. This car will be a fair weather driver and I hope to drive it a lot. I am going to get a one piece replacement for now. I will keep my originals tucked away.
138  Camaro Research Group Discussion / Restoration / Re: Two piece brake rotor replacement. on: July 03, 2012, 11:55:24 AM
Dave, the 5100 works fine. Just be forewarned that you may have to get a couple of them before you find two that don't interfere with the caliper. You can also try the 5514 since that's the number AutoZone shows. O'Reily shows the BrakeBest 5100RGS and AutoZone shows the Duralast 5514, so maybe they've changed the hub a little on the 5514 to make it fit. I don't know.

However, do you still have enough meat to turn your originals? The "official" specs are .965" minimum but lots of folks have run them with up to (or as little as) .935" to .940".

Ed

I measured my rotors and they measure out at .950 and .955 inches. Would a shop turn them if they are already past the minimum?

I removed the bolts connecting my original hub to the rotor before I realized I would go with a one piece replacement. I tried to separate the rotor and hub with no success. I can't say I tried real hard for fear of damaging them. If they ever did make just the rotor part and I wanted to use my original hub, what's the best way to separate the hub from the rotor? I am assume they are rusted together.
139  Camaro Research Group Discussion / Restoration / Re: Two piece brake rotor replacement. on: July 02, 2012, 10:29:44 PM
When I read that about the factory balancing, the person that wrote it said that they saw that in the "68 Chassis Service Manual. I don't have one of those. If someone does, it would be interesting to see what it says.
140  Camaro Research Group Discussion / Restoration / Re: Two piece brake rotor replacement. on: July 01, 2012, 06:36:01 PM
First off, thanks to all that responded and all the comments and ideas.

I guess right now, no one is making just the rotor part of the original two piece hub / rotor assembly for a '68 with a four piston caliper. I believe I will get a one piece replacement for now but hang on to my originals in case just the rotor part becomes available in the future. The reproduction two piece assemblies are a little more than I can put into the brakes right now.

I have read where the orignial two part assemblies were balanced at the factory by drilling holes in them. I am attaching a picture of one of my originals. One of them has five holes drilled in it and the other has none.........Even if just the rotor part becomes available in the future, I don't know where you would go to have this kind of balancing done.

All that being said, can any one recomend a good one piece replacement. I see them all over the place from very cheap to very expensive.

Thanks..........Dave
141  Camaro Research Group Discussion / Restoration / Paint choice for subframe and a-arms ? on: June 28, 2012, 08:05:26 AM
I am looking for a 2K paint for my subframe and a-arms. I definitely want a 2K for durability.

 I just recenty saw a frame painted in SEM Hot Rod Black and it was a little too flat for me and almost looked like a very, very dark gray rather than deep black. I don't want gloss but something that looks jet black with a little more sheen than what I saw on the Hot Rod Black. The best way I can describe the gloss level I want is something with a nice "glow" to it if that makes any sense.

Any suggestions would be appreciated.........Thanks, Dave
142  Camaro Research Group Discussion / Restoration / Two piece brake rotor replacement. on: June 27, 2012, 09:02:11 PM
I need to replace the original two piece rotors on my '68 that uses the four piston calipers.

Does anyone know if anyone is making just the rotor section of the two piece originaI?.......................... I would like to find just the rotor part and keep the original hub. In another post I had put up, "tmodel66" had responeded the he found these on Amazon.com (Bendix part # PRT1213) but is using them on a "69. Amazon asks for your car info to make sure a part fits your car. It will say "yes" for a '69 but "no" for a '68. Maybe they work with the '69 single piston caliper but not the '68 four piston calipers.

I read a lot of old posts on this but most are pretty dated now. I know you can get the entire two piece (rotor and hub) in reproduction now. Just wondering about the rotor part by itself.

                   Thanks....Dave
143  Camaro Research Group Discussion / Restoration / Re: Where to buy new steering and suspension components ??? on: June 19, 2012, 09:23:19 PM
I am just gettin back to this thread I started about three weeks ago.......thanks for all the input so far. I had asked about the best place to buy the following parts for my '68.
 
Ball joints
Spindles (maybe)
Tie rod ends
Tie rod adjusting sleeves
Pitman arm
Idler arm
Rotors
Wheel bearings

I posted this question on TC as well. There were alot of different ideas given. From all the responses (and I know not everyone agreed) it seems the majority of people felt that...........

Moog, if made in the USA, is the best quality but do not look like the originals.

Rock Auto is the best place to buy Moog made in the USA parts.

Moog parts that are not made in the USA will be lesser quality than those that are.

Anything coming out of China will be poor quality.

When I see QS900 / ISO cert stuff in the description, that means made in China.

Anything that is correct in orignal appearance is made in China
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Looking through the parts catalogs, it seems that anything that is stated to be correct in original appearance is made in China.
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I would like to have original looking parts but not at the expense of durability or safety.

So my question now are.........Has anyone bought original looking off shore parts that failed on them? Does "China" automatically equate to poor quality?

Does anyone know of original looking parts that are USA made and good quality?


Thanks........Dave

144  Camaro Research Group Discussion / Restoration / Hotchkiss TVS, Body Bushings, A-arm bushings ??? on: June 15, 2012, 04:09:10 PM
I am considering installing the Hotchkiss TVS suspension system on my "68. I am looking for better handling but don't want an uncomfortable ride either. I want a compromise between good handling/cornering but be able to cruise in reasonable comfort and not get jarred around.......would the TVS system be a good choice for this?

If the TVS is a good choice, then I need to make choices about other components that affect the handling that are not included with the TVS but would work well with it. Namely, the subframe to body bushings and the upper and lower a-arm bushings.

I have read where solid subframe to body bushings are the way to go.....except maybe at the core support because the vibration might be bad for the radiator (true or false?). I had all solid subrame to body bushing in my car before I started my restoration and no problems with the ride quality or the radiator.

And the a-arm bushings, I know of course about polyurethane, but are there other choices out there besides stock bushings that might be better?
Thanks,

Dave
145  Camaro Research Group Discussion / Restoration / Re: Spindles - re-usable or not ??? on: May 28, 2012, 06:50:31 PM
There doesn't seem to be a groove where the seal rides.

And now to ask another rookie question......The grease seal, being pressed into the rotor and spinning around the stationary spindle......what keeps the seal from just melting away from the friction and the heat?
146  Camaro Research Group Discussion / Restoration / Where to buy new steering and suspension components ??? on: May 28, 2012, 09:07:35 AM
I am rebuilding the front suspension and steering components on my 68. I'll be replacing the following items.

Control arms
Ball joints
Spindles (maybe)
Tie rod ends
Tie rod adjusting sleeves
Pitman arm
Idler arm
Rotors
Wheel bearings

Other items necessary to replace such as bushings, I am going to ask about in a seperate post.

My question is where to buy these items from. I have looked at all of them in the major part catalogs (Classic Ind, Ricks, NPD, etc.). Some parts price out pretty much the same between the catalogs. Others can differ in price quite a bit. None of them say anything about who the manufacturer is. I wouldn't have a clue as to what is good quality or what isn't. I want to make sure am getting quality parts that fit right, do the job, and hold up.

Are there any manufacturers who are recomended for these parts?............and where can I find their products?

Also, my rotors are the two piece kind. Is it recomended to stay with the two piece or are the one piece replacements just as good?

Thanks..............Dave
147  Camaro Research Group Discussion / Restoration / Spindles - re-usable or not ??? on: May 28, 2012, 08:11:39 AM
I am trying to determine if my original spindles are still good or should be replaced.  I am rebuilding my front suspension and have everything apart right now. This is a first time suspension rebuild project for me.........I am including a link with some pictures. There is some discoloration where the inner bearing rides on the shaft. The discoloration is not as dark as it looks in the pictures. I went over the discolored area with some 0000 steel wool and WD40 but it made no difference. It seems to be permanent. I have tried to show all 360 degrees of the shaft in the pictures. If you run your fingernail on the shaft where the inner bearind rides, the surface is smooth. If you run your fingernail on the shaft in front of or behind the surface where the inner bearing rides, you can feel very small machining ridges or grooves....... Are there specs posted anywhere that you can check for with a micrometer?

And now to ask what may seem like a silly question. WHere the inner race of the wheel bearings ride on the spindle shaft, is that inner race suppose to stay stationary or spin?

             Thanks.................Dave

http://s1057.photobucket.com/albums/t386/daven1256/Spindle%20pictures/
148  Site Comments / Discussion / Site Comments/Discussion / Posted a new topic but it does not show up on: May 27, 2012, 05:59:29 PM
I tried to post a topic in "Restoration" and it did not go through because my file size was to big. I fixed it and tried to resubmit and it came back saying that I has aready submitted this post. The post does not show up anywhere though. Even when I look at my own user name and check all my posts, it's not there!  I have tried to reword it slightly and re-post it and it keeps coming back saying "Error, this post has already been submitted"..........Any ideas Huh............Thank, Dave
149  Camaro Research Group Discussion / Restoration / Re: Is my subframe saveable or beyond repair ??? on: May 24, 2012, 09:24:50 AM
Dave, I am not sure where you live however I have a very very clean 1968 camaro subframe there is no pit or rust on it at all I have owned it for 19 years it is in my heated and cooled basement, it does have some dents on the middle cross member (maybe from jacking) the mount hole are perfect it is from California, The best part is you can have it for free if you come and pick it up and promiss not to sale it for profit, it is free for your 68. The lower control arm bumps are correct for 68 camaro only. You don't even have to paint it there is not a scratch on it! other than the the bottom dents it is the cleanest I have ever seen, it is a bare subrame. I live in North Carolina.
Paul
WOW !!! .........Paul......thank you for your generous offer. I live just outside of Orlando, FL and am very, very intersted. I am going to send you a PM shortly to talk about it. It might take me a little bit. I am fixing a water leak right in the house right now..........Dave
150  Camaro Research Group Discussion / Restoration / Is my subframe saveable or beyond repair ??? on: May 23, 2012, 09:41:09 AM
I am trying to get some opinions as to wether my original GM '68 subframe is repairable or beyond hope. This is a first time restoration project for me and I am learning as I go. I just got the subframe stripped of all it's components and I found more damage than I was expecting!

I lost a good part of my original body when I got the shell repaired and am doing my best now to save whatever original parts that I can now as long as the cost doesn't get out of hand or I would have to sacrifce any structural integrity. I know getting the frame sandblasted or dipped would give me clearer picture of it's condition. I don't want to do that first though if it's already a lost cause. I am going to list the problems both structural and cosmetic and provide a Photobucket link with some pictures:    http://s1057.photobucket.com/albums/t386/daven1256/

Structural: 1) The four main mounting holes are shot. ( I know this is repairable )

2) The drivers's side coil spring pocket is starting to rust through right where the top of the spring seats. I don't know if it rusted from the top down, the bottom up, or both. It's so crusty on both sides, it's hard to tell. This scares me the most!

3) The upper shock mounting hole on the drivers side has enlarged slightly and the metal thickness at the hole thinned out a little bit.

4) Most of the outer and inner surfaces of my frame have shallow rust pitting. If there is pitting, then there is some material lost which would mean some loss of strength. I don't know if this is an issue or not

Cosmetic: 1) Again the pitting on the ouside. ( I know this can be smoothed with body filler. )

2) Four of the slotted holes on the outside surfaces towards the front end are pulled outward and distorted from transport truck tie downs.

3) The bottom of the main cross member is caved upward slightly. Probably from jacking it up there. About a 1/4 in. in the center.

4) The bottom surface of the driver sider rail, between the firewall and the under the seat mount, is caved upward slightly also. About and eighth inch in the middle. Again, probably from jacking.

5) The factory welding is about as sloppy, messy, and ugly as you can get!

I did my best to check the subframe dimensions against those shown in the '68 Fisher body manual. Some of the dimensions shown are hard to check because you can't run a measuring tape directly from hole to hole because there is stuff in the way. I rigged up a way to do it but I am sure there was some room for error. The difference between my dimensions and the factory dimensions ranged from 0, 1/16, 1/8, and 3/16 inches at the worst.

So in the end, I want to put a structurally sound, cosmetically nice looking subframe back under this car. Preferably, the one that came down the assebly line with it. Can any or all of these things be repaired or is time to find a replacement in better shape ?

Any comments are appreciated.................Thanks...Dave

http://s1057.photobucket.com/albums/t386/daven1256/
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