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112400 Posts in 12912 Topics by 4944 Members
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136  Camaro Research Group Discussion / Restoration / Repro dash top installation dimension needed. on: May 25, 2013, 01:47:21 PM
I had a reproduction dash top put on my '68 and am now having trouble getting my original GM dash pad to sit down in place. The dash pad is sitting about 3/8 of an inch too high where it meets the dash face.

I am trying to figure out if the problem is with the reproduction dash top, the way it was installed, or both.

I am attaching a sketch of the cross section where the dash top meets the dash face. I am hoping someone who has their correct fitting dash pad off can check the measurement I am showing on their car and verify if my measurement is correct or wrong.



137  Camaro Research Group Discussion / Restoration / Re: 68 outside window fuzzies recommendation on: May 14, 2013, 09:40:12 AM
Thanks for the reply. That's good information. It's nice to hear of someone standing by their product. I will check them out.

138  Camaro Research Group Discussion / Restoration / Fiber optic rear deck pod mounting holes on: May 14, 2013, 08:44:04 AM
Does anyone know or have the mounting holes diameters and spacing for the rear pod of the Vigilite (fiber optics) option on a 68? These are the three holes (one large and two small) drilled in the piece of metal between the rear package shelf and the rear window. That piece of metal was replaced on my car and the shop who did the work re-drilled the holes in the new piece but didn't get them quite in the right place. Off center and the pod sit a little crooked. I am thinking of plugging those holes and re-drilling them in the correct spot. I looked in the AIM which shows all the dimensions for the pods on the tops of the fenders but nothing for the rear. Maybe those holes were drilled by Fisher Body.

I  sure I can figure it out on my own but would like to see the dimensions if they are published somewhere.


139  Camaro Research Group Discussion / Restoration / Wiper transmission rebuild necessary ??? on: May 13, 2013, 09:40:10 PM
I am wondering if my windshield wiper transmission is OK as is or needs attention. All of the three ball and socket joints are very free moving. All of the rivets are tight but there is no resistance to movement whatsoever. Two of the three joints have almost no play in the joint. Meaning when I try to move the ball around inside the socket, there is only the tinyest, barely noticeable, movement. The third joint however has some play. Maybe a little more than a 32nd of an inch when moving it side to side.

Is this normal and OK or do I need to do something about the joint with the play in it.

Should you use anything special to lubricate these ball and socket joints.

How about the rotating joint of the the wiper post. Does that need to be cleaned and lubed in any way. They rotate freely with a little resistance. I don't know if that is normal or not.

140  Camaro Research Group Discussion / Restoration / 68 outside window fuzzies recommendation on: May 13, 2013, 09:06:21 PM
Does anyone have a recommendation on where to buy the outside window fuzzies for a 68 that has the reveal belt moldings on top of the door and quarter panel. I would like them to be as original as possible in looks and function.

I am not sure if I should order both the inside and the outside ones. I just need the outside ones for right now. My original inside fuzzies don't look too bad. That's hard for me to know for sure though without holding them along side of new ones to compare. I am not sure if they need replacing.

Rick's sells kits with the outsides only as well as kits for all of the inside and outside. I looked at Steel Rubber Products and it seems you have to buy the inside and outside together. Steele's seem pretty expensive too. And that's OK if they are excellent quality.

141  Camaro Research Group Discussion / Restoration / Re: 68 repro doors - Problems with? Who makes? on: May 08, 2013, 10:41:07 AM
Thanks for the info (even though that's not what I was hoping to hear).

AMD told me that they are making their own '68 door skins now and are working on '68 complete shells but they weren't ready yet. AMD said the complete door shells they are selling right now are from Dynacorn.

Has anyone had experience with Dynacorn '68 doors as far as metal thickness, fitment to the body, and all the things that attach to the door?

Also, does anyone know if Dynacorn doors and Golden Legion doors are on in the same or different pieces?

142  Camaro Research Group Discussion / Restoration / Re: Installing grab handle and bezels on: May 07, 2013, 06:30:25 PM
I know this is not an answer to your question but could you explain the Thermo-vacuum molding process and where you had that done?

143  Camaro Research Group Discussion / Restoration / 68 repro doors - Problems with? Who makes? on: May 07, 2013, 06:24:09 PM
I am faced with the possibility of having to get repro doors for my '68. I don't know yet if my original doors are candidates for new skins. I have looked around past forum posts and can't find too many good things said about the repros.

Are there different manufacturers for these doors or just one? Most of the posts I read with bad comments about them are a little old now. I was wondering if there are any new stampings out there that are better quality?

Besides just to fitting the door to the body, I am worried about all the things that attach to the door.....Exterior handle, lock cylinder, interior door panel, interior handle, deluxe interior grab handle, reveal molding on the top, window tracks and regulators, fuzzies, weather stripping, window guides, hinges, latch mechanism, etc. That's a whole bunch of mounting holes that have to be in the right place!

Can anyone who has used repro doors on a '68 comment as to how much trouble they with attaching all of these things.

144  Camaro Research Group Discussion / Restoration / Re: N30 steering wheel restoration on: April 15, 2013, 11:15:46 PM
I have  the same wheel. I got a steering wheel puller from Autozone and got it right off. Autozone has a free tool loaner program. You essentially buy the tool and then get a full refund when you bring it back. Of course you have to bring it back in the same condition it was in when you took it out.

By the way, where are you sending yours for restoration? If I had a dollar for every crack mine has in it, I could retire.
145  Camaro Research Group Discussion / Restoration / Re: Solid subframe bushings at the core support ??? on: April 13, 2013, 08:25:49 PM
First off, thanks for everyone's reply and input.

I asked this question in the first place because of old posts I have read on the forums where people thought the solid bushings at the core support were a bad idea. I was just trying to see if there were some more current opinions. There are also a bunch of old posts out there from people who felt differently. Many said they have used solid bushings at the core support for years and have never had any radiator problems.

Since the radiator uses rubber mounts, I am going to go ahead and use the solids all the way around.

As to why GM didn't use solid mounts, I am guessing rubber mounts were a compromise to please all drivers. A firm ride that might be acceptable and fun to one us might not have been to the average driver.

146  Camaro Research Group Discussion / Restoration / Solid subframe bushings at the core support ??? on: April 12, 2013, 04:06:38 PM
I will be using solid subframe bushings on my '68. I just ordered the kit containing the bushngs for all six body mount locations.

I have read though, that the solid bushings were not recommended to use where the radiator core support attachches to the subframe because the transmitted vibration could damage the radiator.

I am just looking for opinions on this. Has anyone actually ever had this happen to them? I have no problem buying rubber mounts for that connection if I need to. I don't want to though, if there is no good reason for it.

147  Camaro Research Group Discussion / Restoration / Re: "68 Rear bumper mounting trouble.....hole to hole check dimensions available? on: March 30, 2013, 10:32:38 PM
In order to pull both intermediate brackets tight to the body, they had to be tightened really hard. Beyond what would seem normal. When they were tight,  the driver side bracket hole center was about a half inch forward of the center of the hole in the 1/4 panel. No way to put a bolt through there.

So I took the bumper off and checked it for straightness by laying straightedeges across the inside edge of the top half. What I found was a subtle kink inwards (towards the body) starting at the driver's side intermediate bracket hole.

Also, with the center bracket in place, if you tighten the just the driver's side intermediate bracket, the passenger side intermediate bracket is a half inch away from the body, and vice versa. That can't be right. To tighten both intermediate brackets tight to the body, you are flexing the body, or the bumper, or both.

Can someone tell me if the bumper should be perfectly straight end to end or if there should be a slight crown in the middle like the trunk lid and top of the tail panel has?

I will be on the phone with the shop who did the work on Monday.


148  Camaro Research Group Discussion / Restoration / "68 Rear bumper mounting trouble.....hole to hole check dimensions available? on: March 28, 2013, 07:35:56 PM
I had my original '68 rear bumper straightened and re-chromed. I have reproduction 1/4 panels and tail panel. I also have reproduction CHQ bumper brackets with the exception of the center bracket which is the original one to the car.

I am having trouble making the bumper fit right........ I can get it on the car but cannot get the driver side corner bracket hole to line up with the hole in the quarter panel. Also, I haven't tried it yet but it seems it would take a lot of bolt torquing to pull the two brackets that are between the corner brackets and the center bracket tight to the body

I guess the problem could be anywhere.....1/4 panel, tailpanel, brackets or the bumper itself...........Or maybe I am not doing it the right way.

Is there a correct sequence or procedure when mounting the rear bumper?.. ..Maybe a different way would give different results.......Should the brackets go on the bumper first? (how loose or tight?) and then the brackets to the body? Or the brackets on the body first (how loose or tight?) and then the bumper to the brackets? Or a combination of both? What should you tighten first and how hard should you tighten everything?

I also want to make sure the bumper was straightened correctly. The shop that straightened it said they had some sort of guide that they used to make sure everything was right.

Does anyone know of any published "check" dimensions for a '68 rear bumper? To be able to check if all the mounting holes are in correct relation to each other. To be able to prove that the chrome shop did it right.


149  Camaro Research Group Discussion / Restoration / Re: '68 taillight bezels won't fit properly. on: March 24, 2013, 07:36:23 PM
The tail panel to trunk lid alignment seems to be pretty good from what my amateur eyes can tell. After looking at your photos of the three different tail panels, I'd  have to say mine look more the GM and AMD than the other. I don't know what brand was used by the shop that did the work.
150  Camaro Research Group Discussion / Restoration / Re: '68 taillight bezels won't fit properly. on: March 24, 2013, 04:06:12 PM
Scott, thanks for the reply. Yes....repro quarters too! When you say the 1/4 inch is divided by two, I assume you mean you would tilt the bezel so that you have an 1/8 inch gap at oppsite corners instead of the whole 1/4 inch at one corner.  I am not sure what you mean when you say body work cannot be done from a screen, though. When you say you can make multiple manipulations for a better fit, can you be more specific?

I am attaching a photo of my entire tail pan area. I really don't know how to tell a GM tail panel from one that's not. If it doesn't look like a GM, is that significant for anything other than correct appearance?


By the way....does anyone know if I might be better off buying a set of CHQ bezels rather than using OER ones that were manufactured twelve years ago?

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