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136  Site Comments / Discussion / Site Comments/Discussion / Posted a new topic but it does not show up on: May 27, 2012, 05:59:29 PM
I tried to post a topic in "Restoration" and it did not go through because my file size was to big. I fixed it and tried to resubmit and it came back saying that I has aready submitted this post. The post does not show up anywhere though. Even when I look at my own user name and check all my posts, it's not there!  I have tried to reword it slightly and re-post it and it keeps coming back saying "Error, this post has already been submitted"..........Any ideas Huh............Thank, Dave
137  Camaro Research Group Discussion / Restoration / Re: Is my subframe saveable or beyond repair ??? on: May 24, 2012, 09:24:50 AM
Dave, I am not sure where you live however I have a very very clean 1968 camaro subframe there is no pit or rust on it at all I have owned it for 19 years it is in my heated and cooled basement, it does have some dents on the middle cross member (maybe from jacking) the mount hole are perfect it is from California, The best part is you can have it for free if you come and pick it up and promiss not to sale it for profit, it is free for your 68. The lower control arm bumps are correct for 68 camaro only. You don't even have to paint it there is not a scratch on it! other than the the bottom dents it is the cleanest I have ever seen, it is a bare subrame. I live in North Carolina.
Paul
WOW !!! .........Paul......thank you for your generous offer. I live just outside of Orlando, FL and am very, very intersted. I am going to send you a PM shortly to talk about it. It might take me a little bit. I am fixing a water leak right in the house right now..........Dave
138  Camaro Research Group Discussion / Restoration / Is my subframe saveable or beyond repair ??? on: May 23, 2012, 09:41:09 AM
I am trying to get some opinions as to wether my original GM '68 subframe is repairable or beyond hope. This is a first time restoration project for me and I am learning as I go. I just got the subframe stripped of all it's components and I found more damage than I was expecting!

I lost a good part of my original body when I got the shell repaired and am doing my best now to save whatever original parts that I can now as long as the cost doesn't get out of hand or I would have to sacrifce any structural integrity. I know getting the frame sandblasted or dipped would give me clearer picture of it's condition. I don't want to do that first though if it's already a lost cause. I am going to list the problems both structural and cosmetic and provide a Photobucket link with some pictures:    http://s1057.photobucket.com/albums/t386/daven1256/

Structural: 1) The four main mounting holes are shot. ( I know this is repairable )

2) The drivers's side coil spring pocket is starting to rust through right where the top of the spring seats. I don't know if it rusted from the top down, the bottom up, or both. It's so crusty on both sides, it's hard to tell. This scares me the most!

3) The upper shock mounting hole on the drivers side has enlarged slightly and the metal thickness at the hole thinned out a little bit.

4) Most of the outer and inner surfaces of my frame have shallow rust pitting. If there is pitting, then there is some material lost which would mean some loss of strength. I don't know if this is an issue or not

Cosmetic: 1) Again the pitting on the ouside. ( I know this can be smoothed with body filler. )

2) Four of the slotted holes on the outside surfaces towards the front end are pulled outward and distorted from transport truck tie downs.

3) The bottom of the main cross member is caved upward slightly. Probably from jacking it up there. About a 1/4 in. in the center.

4) The bottom surface of the driver sider rail, between the firewall and the under the seat mount, is caved upward slightly also. About and eighth inch in the middle. Again, probably from jacking.

5) The factory welding is about as sloppy, messy, and ugly as you can get!

I did my best to check the subframe dimensions against those shown in the '68 Fisher body manual. Some of the dimensions shown are hard to check because you can't run a measuring tape directly from hole to hole because there is stuff in the way. I rigged up a way to do it but I am sure there was some room for error. The difference between my dimensions and the factory dimensions ranged from 0, 1/16, 1/8, and 3/16 inches at the worst.

So in the end, I want to put a structurally sound, cosmetically nice looking subframe back under this car. Preferably, the one that came down the assebly line with it. Can any or all of these things be repaired or is time to find a replacement in better shape ?

Any comments are appreciated.................Thanks...Dave

http://s1057.photobucket.com/albums/t386/daven1256/
139  Camaro Research Group Discussion / Restoration / Re: AMD Suframes - Quality, fitment, and finish ??? on: May 21, 2012, 03:38:58 PM
Thanks to all who responeded to my original post. I was hoping to hear more favorable news about the subframes. I put this question out on Team Camaro too and so far, have heard more negative than positve.

The reason I put the question out on the AMD frames is that I just pulled my original frame out and got it stripped to the bare frame and found more damage than I expected. I thought the AMD frame might be the answer but now am not sure. I am going put out a post about my original frame to get opinions if it beyond repair or not....I am going to do that next and go from there.

Router11...Glad you had good luck with yours. I will take you up on your offer to send picture of your subframe. I will send my e-mail in a PM.

Thanks,
Dave
140  Camaro Research Group Discussion / Restoration / AMD Suframes - Quality, fitment, and finish ??? on: May 18, 2012, 04:14:04 PM
I am trying to get some feedback on AMD subframes. I have read through the archives but still can't find the answers I am looking for.

Can anyone speak from their own experiace as to their quality, fit, and finish? Can anyone say if they bolt up to the body OK and if all the front end sheet metal and suspension components fit up to it correctly. And do they they hold up once installed and put through their paces on the street?...........or are they like so many other repro products....Close, but not quite right....and have to be modified?

I am surprised there has not been more discussion on them. You would think when these came out, that it would have been a huge breakthrough and everyone would be getting them..... I also wonder why the price has dropped twice since the were first introduced? Not selling well?

Thanks,
Dave
141  Camaro Research Group Discussion / Restoration / Re: Frustration in finding the right body shop on: January 24, 2012, 01:49:44 PM
Thanks for all the replies and suggestions. I know about Lucas and their reputation. I was hoping to stay closer to home but I will definately consider them.

68camaroZ28.......Thank you for your tip on Lucas. I didn't understand the quoting from my post and that Lucas doesn't do bodywork and paint.
142  Camaro Research Group Discussion / Restoration / Frustration in finding the right body shop on: January 19, 2012, 05:30:05 PM
 
I am going to throw this out there to see what people think. Maybe get some opinions and/or suggestions..... Sorry for it being so long!

I have been searching for a body and paint shop to do the final sheet metal tweeking and paint job on my '68 coupe and find myself having more frustrations than anything else.

Let me explain first how far along my car is now. It was a former New York state rust bucket car. The shell of the car (from the firewall back) was completely rebuilt with full panel replacements. I have a rust free shell now. The shop that did this work specializes in Camaro panel replacements. They have worked with both Goodmark and AMD test fitting panels. Their body rebuilds have been featured in major car magazines. They worked with Hot Rod Magazine to help produce a restoration video series. They only do panel replacements, though. No body work or paint. There are numerous minor imperfections in the sheet metal that need to be fixed. When I asked the shop about this, they said the car was in the "rough metal state" and that my paint and body shop would take care of these.

I have almost all of my front end sheet metal accumulated for the project. It is all original used GM parts in excellent condition or needing very minor repairs.

HERE IS WHAT I NEED NOW FROM A BODY SHOP:
First off, I only need to them to put the car in paint. I want to walk away with a just a painted, rolling shell. Nothing more! I can do the rest of the work myself to see the project through to completion.

I need the imperfections in the repaired shell fixed.

I need the imperfections in my front end sheet metal fixed.

I need the front end sheet metal assembled and aligned.

I want an a nice, straight, no ripples body with even and consistent panel gaps.

I want show quality paint with no orange peel.

HERE IS WHERE THE FRUSTRATION STARTS: I have read a lot of posts on this website and have talked to some know legable people and thought I had a fair idea of how much this would cost. I thought maybe 10K to 15K. Maybe a little more............I visited 13 restoration shops in the State of Florida this past November and December. Some in my immediate area and some as far as two hours away from me. I could not haul my car to all of these shops. I went in with extensive photos of my car and all the areas that are going to need work. I sat down with the shop owners or managers. We went through the pictures and I went over my goals and expectations for the car. Of course, they could only give ballpark figures and I understand that...............I got a low estimate of $4500 to a high estimate of $70,000 ( I am not kidding.... $70,000 !!! ) and everywhere in between. Numbers like $15K, $25K, $30K, and $45K......... I got shop rates ranging from $45/hr to $70/hr.......... We didn't break down the price into labor rate x hours plus materials at each place. Where we did talk hours, I got totals of 400, 500, and 1000 hrs.

At most of the places with an estimate lower than $25K, I wouldn't have been comfortable dropping my car off there. I saw shops that looked like junk yards on the outside and like a tornado hit the inside. I saw a lot of work that was just so-so and some poor quality work too. Of the shops that had completely painted cars there to look at, I only saw cars that impressed me at three shops. Cars that I would be pleased if my car came out like that. These were at the $25K, $30K, and $45K shops. The shop that said possibly $70K had a finished '68 Camaro in their shop that was OK but nothing special.

I thought getting the shell repaired would be the hardest part of the project. Now I am finding this body shop search to be. I am frustrated at the differences in prices between shops. I am frustrated that most of the shops that were in that 10k to 15K price range did not have decent looking cars.

Am I barking up the wrong tree to think I can end up with the kind of car I want ( again, just a painted rolling shell ) for 15K more spent in addition work that has already been done? Just wondering what people think.
143  Camaro Research Group Discussion / Restoration / Body bolt kit or re-use originals ??? on: November 02, 2011, 05:27:25 PM
I am debating on wether to clean and refinish all my body bolts and fasteners ( most seem saveable) or buy a "complete body fastener kit" for my '68 Camaro. The task of degreasing, derusting, and refinishing all those fasteners seems a little daunting............For the money, it seems like a replacement kit might be a better (easier) way to go.

What are people's experiences with these kits? Are they the correct grade with the correct markings and correct finish. Does it vary depending on who you order them from? I see the name "AMK" coming up alot. How are they? I am looking for a correct factory finish in my car.

If I choose to reuse my originals, what is a good way to do a bulk degreasing and derusting while still being able to identify what is what after they come out of the labeled bags? I am sure I could probably take them somewhere to be dipped or can you do this (in bulk I mean ) at home?

Thanks,
Dave
144  Camaro Research Group Discussion / Restoration / Needing a stainless steel trim restoration and chrome shop in central Florida on: October 31, 2011, 09:44:15 AM
I am needing my '68 Camaro stainless steel reveal moldings (top of door and quarter panel), drip moldings, and window trim moldings polished and some dents removed.

I am also needing my bumpers rechromed. The rear bumper also needs to be straightened.

Can anyone recomend a good shop or shops in the central Florida area that does quality work on these items? I live outside of Orlando. I don't mind driving outside of the area ( maybe two hundred miles or so ) to get good work done.

I wouldn't be opposed to sending them out someplace past reasonable driving distance but would like to stay more local and deal with someone in person if possible.

Thanks,
Dave
145  Camaro Research Group Discussion / Restoration / Looking for a good body and paint shop in Central Florida. on: November 05, 2010, 09:14:30 PM
I am looking for a top quality paint and body shop to do the final body work and show quality paint on my '68 Camaro. The shell has already repaired with full panel replacements and is rust free.

I am needing a shop to assemble the front end sheet metal, fix the imperfections in the sheet metal, set all the panel gaps even and consistant, and prep and final paint. I might also want to have all the glass and weather stripping installed. I would take the car from that point and finish it from there.

I would like to find a shop with experience in first generation Camaros. I live in Central Florida (Orlando area) and would like to find someone in the area if possible. It would be nice to be within a reasonable driving distance of the shop so I could periodically check on the progress. Travel to other parts of Florida or even further would not be out of the question, though. I would consider any place, regardless of location, to get the job done right.

Thanks,
Dave
146  Camaro Research Group Discussion / Restoration / Re: How to transport to the body shop ??? on: November 05, 2010, 08:58:35 PM
Thanks to everyone for you suggestions.
147  Camaro Research Group Discussion / Restoration / How to transport to the body shop ??? on: October 28, 2010, 08:41:22 PM
I don't know if this is the right forum to post this in or if this problem has been covered before. I have a '68 Camaro rolling chassis that is ready to go to a shop for paint. I would like to take it several shops for estimates and to see what different people have to say and offer. I live in Central Florida but am not limiting myself to having it done locally.

MY DILEMA IS HOW TO TRANSPORT MY CAR TO THESE DIFFERENT SHOPS................                                                                                               

I don't own a trailer. I don't have room to store a trailer. Even if I did own one or rented one from U-Haul, my daily driver doesn't have the capability of towing a load like that. I really don't know anyone well enough who owns a trailer and a vehicle to pull it with.

I could rent a trailer and a truck to pull it with from U-Haul. The price of the trailer and truck itself is not bad. The big expense is in the mileage charge on the truck if you went any considerable distance. The grand total for a one day, 200 mile round trip would come in around $200. This could add up after a few trips. Money I would rather be putting into the car.

There might not be any other options other than U-Haul.  I was wondering if any one had any suggestions that I haven't thought of. Any ideas would be appreciated.

                  Thanks,
                  Dave
148  Camaro Research Group Discussion / Restoration / 1968 Camaro sheet metal stamped off original GM tooling? WORTH IT ??? on: July 12, 2009, 12:03:08 PM
I have seem some of the parts catologs advertising '67 '68' '69 fenders, inner fenders, and radiator support frames that are stamped off of original GM tooling. They are about triple the price of standard repro stuff...............I am trying to find out if these are worth the money.................. I am currently restoring my '68 and this is a first time project for me. I have never hung front end sheet metal before. I hear stories about how the standard repro stuff doesn't fit right out of the box and has to modified to make it fit.

I am trying to find out if these pieces are the same thickness and metal quality as original GM. And if these will bolt up with out modifications.

I have also heard that the tooling GM was using before it ceased production of these pieces was pretty worn out and that the last of the NOS pieces didn't fit very well. Are these companies using this old tooling to make their pieces?

                                                 Thanks,
                                                 Dave
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