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105009 Posts in 12267 Topics by 4728 Members
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106  Camaro Research Group Discussion / Restoration / Re: Solid subframe bushings at the core support ??? on: April 13, 2013, 08:25:49 PM
First off, thanks for everyone's reply and input.

I asked this question in the first place because of old posts I have read on the forums where people thought the solid bushings at the core support were a bad idea. I was just trying to see if there were some more current opinions. There are also a bunch of old posts out there from people who felt differently. Many said they have used solid bushings at the core support for years and have never had any radiator problems.

Since the radiator uses rubber mounts, I am going to go ahead and use the solids all the way around.

As to why GM didn't use solid mounts, I am guessing rubber mounts were a compromise to please all drivers. A firm ride that might be acceptable and fun to one us might not have been to the average driver.

             Dave
107  Camaro Research Group Discussion / Restoration / Solid subframe bushings at the core support ??? on: April 12, 2013, 04:06:38 PM
I will be using solid subframe bushings on my '68. I just ordered the kit containing the bushngs for all six body mount locations.

I have read though, that the solid bushings were not recommended to use where the radiator core support attachches to the subframe because the transmitted vibration could damage the radiator.

I am just looking for opinions on this. Has anyone actually ever had this happen to them? I have no problem buying rubber mounts for that connection if I need to. I don't want to though, if there is no good reason for it.

Thanks........Dave
108  Camaro Research Group Discussion / Restoration / Re: "68 Rear bumper mounting trouble.....hole to hole check dimensions available? on: March 30, 2013, 10:32:38 PM
In order to pull both intermediate brackets tight to the body, they had to be tightened really hard. Beyond what would seem normal. When they were tight,  the driver side bracket hole center was about a half inch forward of the center of the hole in the 1/4 panel. No way to put a bolt through there.

So I took the bumper off and checked it for straightness by laying straightedeges across the inside edge of the top half. What I found was a subtle kink inwards (towards the body) starting at the driver's side intermediate bracket hole.

Also, with the center bracket in place, if you tighten the just the driver's side intermediate bracket, the passenger side intermediate bracket is a half inch away from the body, and vice versa. That can't be right. To tighten both intermediate brackets tight to the body, you are flexing the body, or the bumper, or both.

Can someone tell me if the bumper should be perfectly straight end to end or if there should be a slight crown in the middle like the trunk lid and top of the tail panel has?

I will be on the phone with the shop who did the work on Monday.





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109  Camaro Research Group Discussion / Restoration / "68 Rear bumper mounting trouble.....hole to hole check dimensions available? on: March 28, 2013, 07:35:56 PM
I had my original '68 rear bumper straightened and re-chromed. I have reproduction 1/4 panels and tail panel. I also have reproduction CHQ bumper brackets with the exception of the center bracket which is the original one to the car.

I am having trouble making the bumper fit right........ I can get it on the car but cannot get the driver side corner bracket hole to line up with the hole in the quarter panel. Also, I haven't tried it yet but it seems it would take a lot of bolt torquing to pull the two brackets that are between the corner brackets and the center bracket tight to the body

I guess the problem could be anywhere.....1/4 panel, tailpanel, brackets or the bumper itself...........Or maybe I am not doing it the right way.

Is there a correct sequence or procedure when mounting the rear bumper?.. ..Maybe a different way would give different results.......Should the brackets go on the bumper first? (how loose or tight?) and then the brackets to the body? Or the brackets on the body first (how loose or tight?) and then the bumper to the brackets? Or a combination of both? What should you tighten first and how hard should you tighten everything?

I also want to make sure the bumper was straightened correctly. The shop that straightened it said they had some sort of guide that they used to make sure everything was right.

Does anyone know of any published "check" dimensions for a '68 rear bumper? To be able to check if all the mounting holes are in correct relation to each other. To be able to prove that the chrome shop did it right.

Thanks.......Dave                                                                     

110  Camaro Research Group Discussion / Restoration / Re: '68 taillight bezels won't fit properly. on: March 24, 2013, 07:36:23 PM
The tail panel to trunk lid alignment seems to be pretty good from what my amateur eyes can tell. After looking at your photos of the three different tail panels, I'd  have to say mine look more the GM and AMD than the other. I don't know what brand was used by the shop that did the work.
111  Camaro Research Group Discussion / Restoration / Re: '68 taillight bezels won't fit properly. on: March 24, 2013, 04:06:12 PM
Scott, thanks for the reply. Yes....repro quarters too! When you say the 1/4 inch is divided by two, I assume you mean you would tilt the bezel so that you have an 1/8 inch gap at oppsite corners instead of the whole 1/4 inch at one corner.  I am not sure what you mean when you say body work cannot be done from a screen, though. When you say you can make multiple manipulations for a better fit, can you be more specific?

I am attaching a photo of my entire tail pan area. I really don't know how to tell a GM tail panel from one that's not. If it doesn't look like a GM, is that significant for anything other than correct appearance?

Thanks......Dave

By the way....does anyone know if I might be better off buying a set of CHQ bezels rather than using OER ones that were manufactured twelve years ago?

112  Camaro Research Group Discussion / Restoration / Re: '68 taillight bezels won't fit properly. on: March 24, 2013, 01:10:32 PM
Thanks for everyone's opinions and ideas.

I know that gaskets will fill gaps. I see some cars out there where the gasket will be squeezed down to nothing in one corner of the taillight bezel and a 1/4 inch thick on another corner. I don't think that looks so good. Is that the best you can hope for with reproduction parts?                       

I see other cars out there that seem to be an almost perfect fit all the way around with the gasket barely visible. Are these original  parts, better reproduction, or someone who just got lucky?

I wanted to see if my problem was the tail panel, the bezels, or both so I took a piece of wood cut it in the shape of the bezel, put a screw through it at each corner, and adjusted the screws so that the end of all four screws touched a flat surface at the same time. (the end of all four screws were in the same plane). The I put the screws up to the taillight openings and the new OER bezels to see what might be warped.







What I found with the taillight openings was that the top, outside corner on each opening was pulled in a 1/4 inch from the other three corners and that the OER bezels seem to be flat. (All four screws touch the corners of the bezel at the same time)

I guess my questions now are......Is this the correct shape of the tail panel and the bezels should have be manufactured to match?.......or is the tail panel warped and the bezels the correct shape?

I haven't tried this yet since I don't have gaskets yet......but if you crank down all the stud bolts and draw the bezel tight to the tail panel, are you going to notice distortion in the tail panel?

           Thanks,
           Dave
113  Camaro Research Group Discussion / Restoration / '68 taillight bezels won't fit properly. on: March 21, 2013, 09:51:06 PM
I am having trouble with the fitment of the taillight bezels on my '68. I have a reproduction tail panel and OER bezels that were bought new in 2001 and stored away until now. The studs on the taillight bezels fit the holes in the tail panel OK. The problem that the bezels do not sit tight to the tail panel at all four corners at the same time. Also, the curvature of the bezel from top to bottom does not match the curvature of the tail panel exactly.

No body work or metal shaping work has been done on the tail panel since it was installed. The worst side is the passenger side where, when three corners of the bezel touch the tail panel, the fourth corner is sticking out a 1/4 inch. (See the picture. Three corners are touching. You can see the shadow being cast by the lower , left hand corner that is up)

I am getting ready to send the car to the body shop for final body work and paint and this can't be left this way.

I am not sure if the the problem is the tail panel....the bezels.....or a combination of both.

Can anyone comment on these OER bezels that are unused but twelve years old now and if they were known to fit poorly?

Would I be better off with a new set of CHQ bezels which seem to have a good reputation?

Can a body man do anything with the tail panel for a better fit without warping it?

Any suggestions would be appreciated.


Thanks.......Dave

114  Camaro Research Group Discussion / Restoration / Re: Interior parts suppliers on: March 17, 2013, 02:02:35 PM
I am not meaning to hijack the thread but I have a question and JKZ27 might find the answer useful also. When Al Knoch restores a door panel, what parts of the original door panel remain and what is new. I have a '68 deluxe door panel which is made up of the heavy cardboard backing that has a 2 inch wide metal strip running across the top. I am assuming there is foam between the carboard backing and the vinyl covering.

                    Dave

115  Camaro Research Group Discussion / Restoration / Re: Vigilite Light Monitoring System Fiber Optic Cable on: February 21, 2013, 03:21:43 PM
Several years ago, I went to the junkyard and raided some fiber optic cable from some 70's or 80's Cadillacs. The cable used for the rear monitor of the Cadillacs was identical to that used in the  rear monitor of my '68 Camaro. I don't know if any of those Cadillacs exist in the junkyards anymore. The attached photo is of cable I took from the Cadillacs.

116  Camaro Research Group Discussion / Restoration / Re: Body filler questions on: February 19, 2013, 06:24:15 PM
Thanks for everyone's replies.
117  Camaro Research Group Discussion / Restoration / Body filler questions on: February 13, 2013, 06:00:00 PM
This is my first real use of body filler and I have some questions. Right now I am trying to do cosmetic work on parts that are sound but have pitting in them. My subframe, a-arms, front bumper brackets, and things like that.

1) I am trying to get the mix ratio of hardener right. I did some experimenting. The first two times, I added too much and it set up too fast. The third time, I had about three minutes to spread it before it started to set up. Is this about right or should I try less hardener. Is there a standard "working time" before set up that tells you your mix is right?

2) How long after you apply the filler should you wait till you start sanding.

3) How long should you let the filler dry before applying paint?

4) How long can you leave the filler exposed before you put paint on it? Will the filler start to absorb moisture if it sits exposed too long?.......and cause problems with the paint later?

5) If you wipe it with wax and grease remover before painting, is there a certain amount of time you should wait to let it completely evaporate out?

6) These parts were already sandblasted and epoxy primered. I am putting the body filler over the epoxy primer. I am going to use Eastwoods 2K Chassis Black for the final coat........should there be a primer between the body filler and the final coat.......and if so, what is recommended?

Thanks.............Dave
118  Camaro Research Group Discussion / Restoration / Moog tie rod end boots won't come off ! on: December 23, 2012, 08:56:33 PM
I have new Moog tie rod ends for my '68. I want to prime and paint them. I wanted to remove the boots so I could paint under them a little ways and not have to mask off around the edges of the boot. I CAN'T GET THEM OFF! I pulled as hard as I can with my hands and they won't budge. I tried prying with a screwdriver just a little bit and that didn't work either. It is liked they are glued on........I have a new Moog idler arm and I can pull that boot right off.

I read of people getting new tie rod ends but using their original boots. They must get the new boots off somehow.

Will these tie rod boots come off?.....and is there a trick to doing it?

Thanks.............Dave
119  Camaro Research Group Discussion / Restoration / Re: Tie rod ends won't thread into sleeves on: December 20, 2012, 08:48:12 PM
I have tried every possible combination of putting these together with the same results. I am going to give Hotchkiss a call and see what they have to say.
120  Camaro Research Group Discussion / Restoration / Re: Tie rod ends won't thread into sleeves on: December 19, 2012, 10:56:16 PM
I understand how the RH, LH thread mix up can happen. I do have them in the right end though. Some will go in just a little, some half way,  and some close to all the way.
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