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1  Camaro Research Group Discussion / Restoration / Re: Finding a replacement heater core frustration on: April 16, 2015, 09:50:17 PM
Napa's website says their core is 2 1/2 inches thick. I am still looking for 2 inches thick.

I am hoping someone can comment on the 2 1/2 inch cores I see listed so often. Is any one using them? In my heater box with the 2 1/2 inch pocket that the core sits in, a 2 1/2 core would be close to, or touching the firewall....and my original hold down clips would not work. What do you hold down a 2 1/2 inch core with.

Chick, how was the tube postioning on the core you got from Heartbeat City? Others  have said the tubes were positioned wrong and had to be fixed.

Also, while we are on this subject. Does anyone know where you can get a heater core tube to firewall seal like the original shown in the pics below. The seal that came with the OER heater box seal kit isn't anywhere close to the original. Rick's use to show them but with a note saying that they were discontinued.


2  Camaro Research Group Discussion / Restoration / Finding a replacement heater core frustration on: April 09, 2015, 08:59:20 PM
I am trying hard to find a replacement heater core for my '68 327 non-AC car and becoming frustrated!

Looking for a replacement that is good quality, the same size as the original, has the tubes bent correctly for my car. This seems to be hard to find.

I would have liked to have my original recored if it was less expensive. I went to the only three shops in the Orlando, Fl area that advertised radiator repair. One could not do it. One recommended I don't because it would cost over $300. The third would do it but quoted me between $200 and $250..... I found a place out of state you could send it to but they quoted me $190......I can't put that kind of money into a heater core right now.

I bought a Spectra Premium part number 94536 from Autozone. I had seen where someone on this site had used that particular one and was happy with it.....It is all aluminum and light as a feather however it is a half inch shorter than the original leaving large gaps at the top and bottom where the heater core sits in the heater box......Also, the original clip that holds the core in place by the tubes will not work with it. I would have to fabricate something which I could do but would rather not.

Just about every other core I have looked at from numerous websites state their thickness as 2 1/2 inches or don't give any dimensions. My original Harrison core is only 2 inches thick. The original clips are made for a core that is 2 inches thick and will not work with one 2 1/2 inches thick. A 2 1/2 inch core will fit in the pocket but would be almost flush with the outside edge of the box. And then there would be no way to fasten it unless you rigged something. Also with a lot of these, if the picture they are using is correct, the tubes are clearly in the wrong place.

I also looked at the Vista Pro Ready Aire part number 398228 which says it is 2 inches thick but it got four bad reviews (two reviews each on two different sites) saying that the dimesnsions were different from what was advertised.

Any suggestions would be appreciated.


3  Camaro Research Group Discussion / Restoration / Re: Steering column to firewall seal ??? on: March 06, 2015, 08:55:33 AM
The dimensions between the welded nuts in the firewall are a perfect match to the holes in the two piece plate.
4  Camaro Research Group Discussion / Restoration / Steering column to firewall seal ??? on: March 05, 2015, 10:35:16 PM
I bought a new steering column to firewall seal for my '68. The one that goes between the two piece plate that clamps around the steering column and the firewall. A lot of the repro catalogs don't list this item but I did get one from Rick's. It is the Repops brand.

The three holes in this new seal do not match up with the holes in the two piece plate. The center to center distance between the two holes that are furthest apart differ by 5/8 inch. Before I return this seal I am wondering if there is some logical reason for this that I am not getting......or is it just another bad reproduction part?

If it is a bad part, can anyone recommend a different brand and what company carries it.


5  Camaro Research Group Discussion / Restoration / Astro Ventilation seals ??? on: March 02, 2015, 02:47:46 PM
I am resealing my Astro Ventilation ductwork on my '68 and have both an OER and a Soffseal seal kit. There is an extra seal in both kits that is mystifying me as to where it goes. I have pointed it out in the attached photo. I am showing the OER seals in this photo. In both kits, the mystery seal is the same as the the two strips of felt that the front and back of the vent ball ride on.

The OER seal kit has no instructions. The Soffseal kit has written instructions but no diagrams. They mention this seal in the instructions but the instructions are too confusing. The AIM and the Fisher Body Manual are no help either.

Also, has anyone ever used the thin round piece of rubber that is supposed to be the replacement for the rubber seal on the butterfly flap that opens and closes regulating the airflow. It is nothing compared to the original piece and doesn't look up to the job?


6  Camaro Research Group Discussion / Restoration / Re: Interior seam sealing questions on: February 17, 2015, 10:13:53 PM
Thanks to everyone for their opinions and thoughts. I am sorry it took me a week to get back to this.

Based on what everyone has said,  I am going to just replicate what the factory did and not add anything extra.

I still have two questions though............

1) What to do where the seat frame meets the rocker. I see what the factory did but don't know if that black factory sealer flowed down and completely filled the floor / rocker seam under the frame. I have been using 3M sealer out of a caulking gun and it is definitely too thick to flow like that. I have no idea if the factory sealed that area before welding in the seat frames. I want to make sure something gets into that seam. I don't have a good feeling about just doing the contact area between the top of the seat frame and the rocker and not getting anything under that joint.

2) How did the factory seam seal this brace? This brace did not come on my original floor, so I have no pictures or any reference that tell me how it was seam sealed at the factory. Was it like the seat frame.........just the sides with the front and back edges left alone?

7  Camaro Research Group Discussion / Restoration / Re: Interior seam sealing questions on: February 07, 2015, 11:45:59 PM
First off, I appreciate everyone's opinions and advice.

In regards to GM having a sound reason for doing what they did, my first thought is to agree with that. If that's the way they did it, then that has to be the best way to redo it.......But then my second thought is that these cars weren't built at the factory to last forever. "Planned obsolescence!" They were to made to eventually wear or rust out so the consumer would buy a new car. That's why I am questioning why some of this factory seam sealing was done the way it was.

We all try to make improvements over what the factory did in some areas so the work we do will last. I am hoping for my car to last another 25 or 30 years. My long term goals for the car and what the factory's long term goals were are different.

In this picture, I am not sure what the seam seal circled in red is supposed to protect unless you knocked over a bucket of water on your transmission tunnel. I would think that any water that leaked under the carpet would get to the areas circled in green first and wick right into those joints where it would probably stay. I would quicker think you would seam seal the areas in green before you would seal the areas in red......Of course, I could be dead wrong.  I'm still scratching my head!


8  Camaro Research Group Discussion / Restoration / Re: Interior seam sealing questions on: February 07, 2015, 12:15:35 PM
Letting water escape makes sense but I wonder why then, with the seat frames for example, they didn't seal the two lowest sides (the first place water would get in) and leave the two high sides open for water to evaporate out of if the seam seal failed.

9  Camaro Research Group Discussion / Restoration / Re: Interior seam sealing questions on: February 07, 2015, 10:22:53 AM
Thanks for the suggestion the seam sealer.

What I was really trying to get to is how to seam seal all the brackets and braces that are welded to the floor. On all four sides.......or on just two sides like GM did it......or maybe not at all. I don't undrstand why GM only did two of the four sides on all of these. It's easy enough for me to just do all four sides but before I did that, I wondering what the reasoning was for GM only doing two sides and leaving the other two unprotected.

And also, how the floor to rocker panel joint got sealant in it where that joint is covered by the front seat brace.

10  Camaro Research Group Discussion / Restoration / Interior seam sealing questions on: February 06, 2015, 09:12:13 PM
I am about to do some interior seam sealing and have some questions. I'll put each question after a photo where I have circled the area I am talking about in red. All of these pics except the last one are of my original factory seam seals. I now have a new full main floor, new full trunk floor, new inner and outer wheelhouses, and new inner and outer rockers.


Why did the factory only seam seal the front seat frames along the sides and not along the front and back? If water got to the floor, it's still going to get under the seat frame from the front or the back. I don't understand the logic of just doing the two highest sides. I wondering if there is a reason I should not seal mine all the way around.

Again with these two pictures, why were these rear seat supports only sealed on two sides? Water can still get under them.
Is there any reason they should not be sealed all the way around?

Where the front seat frame is welded to the rocker, how did the factory get a good seam seal between the rocker and the floor underneath the seat frame where that joint is inaccessable? They obviously seam sealed after the seat frame was in place.

I was told that this brace on the floor only came on convertibles originally but now comes on all reproduction floors. My coupe did not have this brace on it's original floor. Did this piece get seam sealed originally on the convertibles? I assuming it probably did since everything else welded to the floor got at least a partial seam seal. And again here it will be difficult to get seam sealer into the floor / rocker panel joint where this brace covers it.

11  Camaro Research Group Discussion / Restoration / Sound deadener / heat barrier comparisons on: January 29, 2015, 08:41:21 PM
Does anyone know if a comparison test has ever been done of the major sound deadener/ heat barrier companies (Dynamat, QuietRide, FatMat, B-Quiet, etc.?)

 And what I mean by that is all of them being tested under identical conditions and results posted showing how much each one reduces noise from one side of the test piece to the other.....and how much each reduces the temperature from one side of the test piece to the other.......An apples to apples comparison?

 I have been looking on all their websites trying to learn about each one and it can get pretty confusing. All the sites present their products differently and sometimes get into science that is over the average guys head.

 Going from website to website and trying to make a decision based strictly on performance is almost impossible.

12  Camaro Research Group Discussion / Restoration / Heater box door seal fit ??? on: January 25, 2015, 01:23:08 PM
I am rebuilding my heater box that goes under the dash. There are the three doors inside the box regulating the airflow through it.

The door closest to the heater core controlling the hot/cold air mix....The middle door that controls how much air flows through the box (from zero to wide open)....and the third door that diverts the air to either to the defroster ducts or to the floor.

My question concerns the seal on that middle door that controls how much air is flowing through the box.

I bought a new seal kit for the box from OER. The seal fits fine on the vertical edges of the door but is not tall enough to make a tight seal between the door and the box along the top and bottom edges.

My original seal was completely gone so I have no reference.....So what I am wondering the OER seal made that way by design so that a little bit of air is always flowing through the box or should it be tight on all four sides of the door completely sealing off any airflow.

I have some material that I can cut a bigger seal out of but am not sure if I should.

Thanks Dave

13  Camaro Research Group Discussion / Restoration / Re: CLEAR COATING ALUMINUM GRILL TRIM ??? on: January 16, 2015, 01:42:29 PM
I would love to have it anodized but are reluctant to do so for the reasons I stated above.......

"Everything I have read says that the anodizing process will destroy iron so I cannot re-anodize the upper and lower moldings without having to pry loose the mounting brackets and studs on the back. I really don't want to attempt this for fear of screwing them up."
14  Camaro Research Group Discussion / Restoration / Repro firewall pad fitment problem on: January 15, 2015, 09:37:45 PM
I bought a Quiet Ride molded firewall pad and am test fitting it. I have a question about how the firewall pad is supposed to fit around the steering column / brake booster support bracket where the four brake booster support studs pass through the firewall.

When I took my car apart, a good part of my original pad in that area was gone so I have no reference.

In the first three photos below, you see the Quiet Ride pad in place and how it would seem the bracket is supposed to fit the cut out made for it. It seems the pad is designed to go in between the bracket and the firewall. With lower two of the fours studs passing through the pad and the top ones not. This seems odd to me because before I took the car apart, the bracket was directly against the firewall with no part of the original pad behind it......You can see in the lower two pictures what was left of my original pad in that area and it seems the pad was cut out completly around the bracket.

So I am wondering if this pad is made wrong or designed wrong and if I should return it or maybe just trim it to completely clear the bracket.



15  Camaro Research Group Discussion / Restoration / CLEAR COATING ALUMINUM GRILL TRIM ??? on: January 14, 2015, 08:34:36 PM
I am looking for suggestions on what to use to clear coat the exposed aluminum edges of my '68  grill trim (standard, not rally sport). I took my upper and lower grill moldings and the headlight bezels to a shop to have the exposed aluminum edges polished out. The anodized coating was removed in the process.

My job now is to protect the polished exposed edges and repaint the black area in between. Everything I have read says that the anodizing process will destroy iron so I cannot re-anodize the upper and lower moldings without having to pry loose the mounting brackets and studs on the back. I really don't want to attempt this for fear of screwing them up.

I have researched clear coatings for polished aluminum and seem to strike out with everyone I come across for one reason or another. For example........
VHT Clear Coat - Spoke with VHT tech support and they recomended not applying to polished aluminum.

Permalac - Seems to be good stuff but only comes in matte or satin finish.....after having these pieces polished nice and bright, I don't want to dull them back to a satin finish.

Eastwood Diamond Clear - some reviews say it doesn't stick well to polished surfaces and some say that the "clear" also dries to a satin finish instead of clear.

I hope to put something on there that won't reduce the shine.............Also, whatever I put on there, I have to be able to put masking tape over it so I can repaint the black in the center and not have the clear lift when I pull up the tape.

Any suggestions would be appreciated.


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