61
Originality / Re: 1968 Norwood Trunk Paint Color
« on: August 27, 2019, 02:18:27 AM »
My '68 03C Norwood car had gray and white.
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62
General Discussion / Re: Black speaker covering material.
« on: August 24, 2019, 01:02:39 AM »
I went to a fabric store and found some very thin sheer black material and bought the minimum amount. It probably cost a couple of bucks at the most and worked great!
Dave
Dave
63
Restoration / Re: Interior rear view mirror repair questions
« on: August 22, 2019, 12:13:16 PM »
I agree, it looks great!
Dave
Dave
64
Restoration / Re: Interior rear view mirror repair questions
« on: July 28, 2019, 01:00:09 AM »
That looks great! They did a nice job of cleaning the rubber pocket. Before the restoration yours looked like mine does now. The overall shade of gray had changed and also had some discoloration. Now yours looks like new.
After seeing this, I think I've made up my mind to send mine out rather than to try to do it myself.
Dave
After seeing this, I think I've made up my mind to send mine out rather than to try to do it myself.
Dave
65
Restoration / Re: Interior rear view mirror repair questions
« on: July 06, 2019, 09:20:24 PM »
I am the OP and apologize for not getting back to this sooner. Thanks for all of the replies and comparison photos.
I think my two choices are to send my mirror to The Mirror Lady or to buy replacement glass from Paragon, replace my broken day/night switch lever, and do it all myself. My metal body is in excellent shape. I don't know what adhesive I would use to re-attach the rubber frame to the metal body, though. I have a line on a donor mirror to get the day/night switch lever from.
I Googled "mirror re-silvering' in the Orlando, FL area and got two hits. I went by one place which was close to me and they told me they don't do anything like that. I called the other place which was called Mirror Mirror and they told me they were a hair salon! (I had to laugh at that one!) With the results some have had with re-silvering, maybe that isn't the way to go.
I did contact The Mirror Lady, spoke with Dennis over there, and found out the following....
a) The cost for the mirror restoration is $95 plus $12 for return shipping.
b) Yes, they can replace my broken day/night lever switch but that is extra but I didn't ask how much.
c) They use new glass! They do not re-silver your old glass!
d) I said my rubber frame has some light discolored spots that I could not remove with detergent and scrubbing. He said they have a solution that they use that does a good job. That most light staining would clean up but if it was really dark, it might not.
e) They DO NOT sell individual parts if someone was wanting to do their own restoration.
f) There is an adhesive that is used to attach the rubber frame to the metal body of the mirror. I wasn't sure if it was supposed to somehow snap into place.
For the price, The Mirror Lady is probably the way to go. I like fixing my own things when I can though, so I haven't made up my mind which way to go yet.
Dave
I think my two choices are to send my mirror to The Mirror Lady or to buy replacement glass from Paragon, replace my broken day/night switch lever, and do it all myself. My metal body is in excellent shape. I don't know what adhesive I would use to re-attach the rubber frame to the metal body, though. I have a line on a donor mirror to get the day/night switch lever from.
I Googled "mirror re-silvering' in the Orlando, FL area and got two hits. I went by one place which was close to me and they told me they don't do anything like that. I called the other place which was called Mirror Mirror and they told me they were a hair salon! (I had to laugh at that one!) With the results some have had with re-silvering, maybe that isn't the way to go.
I did contact The Mirror Lady, spoke with Dennis over there, and found out the following....
a) The cost for the mirror restoration is $95 plus $12 for return shipping.
b) Yes, they can replace my broken day/night lever switch but that is extra but I didn't ask how much.
c) They use new glass! They do not re-silver your old glass!
d) I said my rubber frame has some light discolored spots that I could not remove with detergent and scrubbing. He said they have a solution that they use that does a good job. That most light staining would clean up but if it was really dark, it might not.
e) They DO NOT sell individual parts if someone was wanting to do their own restoration.
f) There is an adhesive that is used to attach the rubber frame to the metal body of the mirror. I wasn't sure if it was supposed to somehow snap into place.
For the price, The Mirror Lady is probably the way to go. I like fixing my own things when I can though, so I haven't made up my mind which way to go yet.
Dave
66
Restoration / Interior rear view mirror repair questions
« on: June 23, 2019, 02:10:27 AM »
I am trying to save and restore the original interior rear view mirror from my '68 and have some questions.
It has two problems. The glass is needing replacing or re-silvering and the lever for switching the day/night mode is broken.
My questions are...…
1) Is there any place you can get a replacement lever aside from a donor mirror. I'm doubting it but it never huts to ask. I tried gluing mine back together and had exactly the luck I expected......none!
2) Replacement glass is available from Paragon Corvette for $40.00. I assume it's reproduction and wonder about the quality and fit. Anyone had experience with these?
3) Can any place that re-silvers mirrors re-do do a day/night mirror?
4) Is it true that the glass just fits inside the rubber and that no adhesive was used to hold it in. I didn't know if the yellow substance that came off of the back of the glass and stuck to the rubber was adhesive or part of the mirror backing?
5) How is the rubber attached the stainless steel body of the mirror? I had soaked my mirror in hot water to soften the rubber to get the glass out and in the process, most of the rubber detached from the body of the mirror. An inch and a half of the rubber at one end will not come loose though. On the part that did come loose, there doesn't seem to be any trace of adhesive.
Thanks..…..Dave
It has two problems. The glass is needing replacing or re-silvering and the lever for switching the day/night mode is broken.
My questions are...…
1) Is there any place you can get a replacement lever aside from a donor mirror. I'm doubting it but it never huts to ask. I tried gluing mine back together and had exactly the luck I expected......none!
2) Replacement glass is available from Paragon Corvette for $40.00. I assume it's reproduction and wonder about the quality and fit. Anyone had experience with these?
3) Can any place that re-silvers mirrors re-do do a day/night mirror?
4) Is it true that the glass just fits inside the rubber and that no adhesive was used to hold it in. I didn't know if the yellow substance that came off of the back of the glass and stuck to the rubber was adhesive or part of the mirror backing?
5) How is the rubber attached the stainless steel body of the mirror? I had soaked my mirror in hot water to soften the rubber to get the glass out and in the process, most of the rubber detached from the body of the mirror. An inch and a half of the rubber at one end will not come loose though. On the part that did come loose, there doesn't seem to be any trace of adhesive.
Thanks..…..Dave
67
General Discussion / Re: 1967/1968 rear center bumper brackets.
« on: April 04, 2019, 09:20:18 PM »
It's possible to have a '67,'68 center bracket with the 1 inch hole on both sides if you had a '68 with the U46 Lamp Monitoring option. The power wire for the license plate lamp would go through the hole on the passenger side and the fiber optic monitoring wire going to the license plate lamp would go through the hole on the driver's side.
Dave
Dave
68
Restoration / Rear shock upper mount plate questions
« on: March 27, 2019, 02:14:57 PM »
I have three questions about the plates that bolt to the bottom of the trunk floor and that the top of the rear shocks mount to.
1) Would the little bit of these plates that you would see inside the trunk have spatter paint on them? The fact that the spatter paint was applied on the Fisher Body side of the plant.....and that these plates show up in the AIM (the Chevrolet side) would tell me they were installed after spatter paint. I just want to verify this.
2) What is the correct finish of the plates? The ones I bought have what looks like EDP coating on them. The ones shown on HBC's website look like phosphate.
3) The AIM shows PN 3905569 Washer-Sealing to seal the bolt holes in the plate to the trunk floor and some kind of cement (No. 63) to seal the big hole in the plates to the trunk floor. Is this anything special or can you just get by with a little strip caulk to do all of the sealing?
Thanks.....Dave
1) Would the little bit of these plates that you would see inside the trunk have spatter paint on them? The fact that the spatter paint was applied on the Fisher Body side of the plant.....and that these plates show up in the AIM (the Chevrolet side) would tell me they were installed after spatter paint. I just want to verify this.
2) What is the correct finish of the plates? The ones I bought have what looks like EDP coating on them. The ones shown on HBC's website look like phosphate.
3) The AIM shows PN 3905569 Washer-Sealing to seal the bolt holes in the plate to the trunk floor and some kind of cement (No. 63) to seal the big hole in the plates to the trunk floor. Is this anything special or can you just get by with a little strip caulk to do all of the sealing?
Thanks.....Dave
69
General Discussion / Re: 1967 Camaro factory replacement wiring harness
« on: March 08, 2019, 01:48:31 AM »
Check American Autowire also.
70
General Discussion / Re: When was the 1st 68 Camaro built and sold?
« on: February 25, 2019, 03:48:35 AM »
Why doesn't it have the standard month/week date code?
71
Restoration / Re: Brake Metering/Proportioning valve plunger question!
« on: February 24, 2019, 11:53:53 PM »
I am certainly not disputing what anyone is saying, I'm just trying to get this straight in my head and so far I haven't been able to do it. I going to explain in my mind how I think the metering valve works and if I've got this all screwed up, please point out to me where I'm going wrong.
1) The valve holds off pressure reaching the front brakes until the pressure in the valve reaches 30 to 40 lbs.
2) I would assume there is internal valve of some sort inside the metering valve held close by a spring preventing the fluid from flowing past it. When the fluid pressure reaches the 30 to 40 lbs, that's enough pressure to to overcome the spring tension and the internal valve opens letting the fluid through. (Similar to the way a radiator thermostat opens when the coolant gets hot enough).
3) When you are bleeding your brakes manually (without pressure), you don't develop the required 30 to 40 lbs necessary to open the internal valve so the plunger exists so you can open the internal valve manually.
Right or wrong so far ? Probably wrong!
This is the part I'm having a hard time getting my head around. If the fluid pressure opens the internal valve pushing the plunger out, why would you want to push the plunger back in while you are bleeding like all the books say to? Wouldn't that be closing the valve stopping the fluid flow which is what you don't want to do?
Just trying to get it all figured out......Dave
1) The valve holds off pressure reaching the front brakes until the pressure in the valve reaches 30 to 40 lbs.
2) I would assume there is internal valve of some sort inside the metering valve held close by a spring preventing the fluid from flowing past it. When the fluid pressure reaches the 30 to 40 lbs, that's enough pressure to to overcome the spring tension and the internal valve opens letting the fluid through. (Similar to the way a radiator thermostat opens when the coolant gets hot enough).
3) When you are bleeding your brakes manually (without pressure), you don't develop the required 30 to 40 lbs necessary to open the internal valve so the plunger exists so you can open the internal valve manually.
Right or wrong so far ? Probably wrong!
This is the part I'm having a hard time getting my head around. If the fluid pressure opens the internal valve pushing the plunger out, why would you want to push the plunger back in while you are bleeding like all the books say to? Wouldn't that be closing the valve stopping the fluid flow which is what you don't want to do?
Just trying to get it all figured out......Dave
72
Restoration / Re: Brake Metering/Proportioning valve plunger question!
« on: February 24, 2019, 03:37:32 PM »
Thanks for all the replies.
I know what the function of the metering valve is and why it's necessary. The one and only thing I was trying to find out from this post is.....is there something wrong with my metering valve?
Both the '68 Chevrolet Chassis Service Manual and Chilton's state that when bleeding a front disc brake system, the plunger on the back of the valve must be depressed! The don't say " might have to" or "if necessary." The Chassis Service Manual says "must be held" and Chilton's says "it will be necessary to hold."
They both state that once the plunger is depressed (opening the valve inside), it can be held down by hand, with a clamp, or even with tape. If something spring loaded can be held down with tape, I would think I should be able to push it in with finger with little resistance. But my plunger will not budge, even cranking on it in a vise
My metering valve was rebuilt by a professional two years ago so I wouldn't think it could be rust frozen inside.
So that's all I really want to know...….is there is something wrong with my valve?
Thanks..…….Dave
I know what the function of the metering valve is and why it's necessary. The one and only thing I was trying to find out from this post is.....is there something wrong with my metering valve?
Both the '68 Chevrolet Chassis Service Manual and Chilton's state that when bleeding a front disc brake system, the plunger on the back of the valve must be depressed! The don't say " might have to" or "if necessary." The Chassis Service Manual says "must be held" and Chilton's says "it will be necessary to hold."
They both state that once the plunger is depressed (opening the valve inside), it can be held down by hand, with a clamp, or even with tape. If something spring loaded can be held down with tape, I would think I should be able to push it in with finger with little resistance. But my plunger will not budge, even cranking on it in a vise
My metering valve was rebuilt by a professional two years ago so I wouldn't think it could be rust frozen inside.
So that's all I really want to know...….is there is something wrong with my valve?
Thanks..…….Dave
73
Restoration / Brake Metering/Proportioning valve plunger question!
« on: February 23, 2019, 06:58:19 PM »
Mine is a '68 with power front disc brakes.
I had my Metering Valve (or Proportioning Valve depending on what you call it) rebuilt by Brakeboosters.com a couple of years ago. I'm just now getting ready to fill and bleed my restored brake system for the first time.
I know that when you are bleeding the brakes that the plunger on the back of the Metering Valve has to be pushed in in order for fluid to flow to the front brakes. I've read where you can have someone helping you push it in or put a clamp on it.
My question is.....just how much force does it take to push that plunger in??? I tried doing it by hand and it wouldn't move......I put the valve in a vice and gently turned it and the plunger still won't budge. I had wood between the valve and the vise jaws to protect the valve and it started crushing the wood instead of moving the plunger!...….That amount of pressure not moving the plunger hardly jives with someone being able to push it in by hand.
I'm not sure how to precede here. Do these things stick? I'm afraid of putting any more pressure on it for fear of breaking something.....Any thoughts are appreciated?
Thanks...….Dave
I had my Metering Valve (or Proportioning Valve depending on what you call it) rebuilt by Brakeboosters.com a couple of years ago. I'm just now getting ready to fill and bleed my restored brake system for the first time.
I know that when you are bleeding the brakes that the plunger on the back of the Metering Valve has to be pushed in in order for fluid to flow to the front brakes. I've read where you can have someone helping you push it in or put a clamp on it.
My question is.....just how much force does it take to push that plunger in??? I tried doing it by hand and it wouldn't move......I put the valve in a vice and gently turned it and the plunger still won't budge. I had wood between the valve and the vise jaws to protect the valve and it started crushing the wood instead of moving the plunger!...….That amount of pressure not moving the plunger hardly jives with someone being able to push it in by hand.
I'm not sure how to precede here. Do these things stick? I'm afraid of putting any more pressure on it for fear of breaking something.....Any thoughts are appreciated?
Thanks...….Dave
74
Restoration / Re: Incorrect starter brace ???
« on: February 04, 2019, 03:18:54 PM »
Thanks for the replies. I will try one that Ed suggested.
Dave
Dave
75
Restoration / Incorrect starter brace ???
« on: February 03, 2019, 04:03:20 PM »
I am trying to figure out what is the correct starter brace for my car.
I have a '68 originally with a 327 but the engine block that is in it is a 350 from a '76 Impala. In all the years I've owned it, it never had a starter brace but I would like to put one on.
I have the 12 3/4 inch 153 tooth flywheel and a Delco Remy starter #1108368 1F 1 1
The brace you see in these pictures is from Heartbeat City and is a genuine GM.....part number 3965589. It is what HBC calls out for a small block with a 153 tooth flywheel...….It is about an inch too short!
I'm not sure where the problem is. Either the part number they call out is wrong or.....the stud on the starter I have that the brace connects to is in a location different from where it would be on an original 327 starter or...…..the brace mounting hole in the block is in a different location than a '68 327 block or....some combination of the above.
Whatever the reason, I would still like to find the correct brace (if there is one) that will work with the block and the starter that I have.
Thanks.......Dave
I have a '68 originally with a 327 but the engine block that is in it is a 350 from a '76 Impala. In all the years I've owned it, it never had a starter brace but I would like to put one on.
I have the 12 3/4 inch 153 tooth flywheel and a Delco Remy starter #1108368 1F 1 1
The brace you see in these pictures is from Heartbeat City and is a genuine GM.....part number 3965589. It is what HBC calls out for a small block with a 153 tooth flywheel...….It is about an inch too short!
I'm not sure where the problem is. Either the part number they call out is wrong or.....the stud on the starter I have that the brace connects to is in a location different from where it would be on an original 327 starter or...…..the brace mounting hole in the block is in a different location than a '68 327 block or....some combination of the above.
Whatever the reason, I would still like to find the correct brace (if there is one) that will work with the block and the starter that I have.
Thanks.......Dave