Messages

301

Restoration / Quarter panel window U-jamb seal fittment ???

« on: December 16, 2013, 03:11:14 AM »

I wonder if someone could comment on...or post a picture of how their quarter window u-jamb window seal is supposed to look installed. I have attached some pictures of mine that I am test fitting with a new quarter panel. It fits down into the cut out on the quarter panel OK but the inner top of the seal does not seem to conform in any way to the quarter panel. I have red arrows in my pictures showing the area I am talking about. It is just kind of hanging out there. I would have thought maybe that it would snap in place but there seems to be no correlation bettween the shape of the seal and the shape of the quarter panel where they mate up to each other.

Thanls.........Dave

302

Restoration / Re: Correct top of door window opening dimension ???

« on: December 15, 2013, 02:09:23 AM »

Jim, thanks for the dimesions. It's a relief to know that my dimensions now pretty much match an original door.....and that I didn't change the wrong door. We pushed the outside face of the door to reduce the curvature and close the gap. We didn't touch where the inside of the window touches the door.

                    Dave

303

Restoration / Correct top of door window opening dimension ???

« on: December 14, 2013, 08:24:28 PM »

I am hoping someone can verify the dimensions I have marked with red arrows in the attached pictures. I have new AMD door skins on my original shells. My car is getting close to going in the paint booth. We are still doing some final fitting. When the doors where fitted back on the car, I noticed the window opening gap at the top of one door was wider than the other with more curvature on the outside top of the door

I measured the window opening gap in the center of the doors on both sides.........Sure enough, one side was 5/16 inch wider than the other. One side measured 1 3/4 inch and the other side was 2 1/16 inch. A 5/16 inch difference.

The 2 1/16 side looked awfully wide so we pushed a few times on the outside of the door and and finally got the center of the window opening to about the same distance as the other side. In hindsight, maybe we should have worked the outside of the doors to match the curvature of the windows. I don't know.

So anyhow, I am wondering if the dimensions I am showing are what they should be, and if not, what the correct dimensions should be.

                    Thanks......Dave

304

Restoration / Re: '68 D90 stripe questions

« on: December 01, 2013, 02:55:18 AM »

I have never seen one of these stencils. How are they made and how are they applied? Does the stencil merely give you a guide as to where to place your own masking tape. Or is the masking tape you use part of the stencil itself?

Also, if your engine size emblem and the stripe are both placed according to the AIM, will the emblem fit inside of.....and be centered in the fat. middle part of the stripe?.....I see emblems out there in all kinds of different places in relation to the stripe.

Dave

305

Restoration / '68 D90 stripe questions

« on: November 24, 2013, 08:33:30 PM »

I am going to putting the '68 D90 Super Sport stripe on my car. I am going to have mine fully painted and not use any decals.

 I am not sure where to order the stripe stencil from.......I know you can buy them from any catalog but am sure the quality probably varies depending on who makes it.

 I did some research here on the site and the name Stencils and Stripes, Unlimited came up a lot.

 I would want mine to look like the one in this picture. I have seen some stripes out there where they look too fat as they sweep across the rear of the fender and door.

 If the "Camaro" script emblem on the fender is positioned properly and the stripe is the correct width under the "Camaro" emblem, will the emblem overlap the stripe?..... I know the bottom of the "C" probably will, but how about the "amaro" ?

 Thanks.....Dave

306

Restoration / Re: KICK PANEL... DOOR PANEL....REAR SIDE PANEL FITMENT

« on: November 19, 2013, 02:13:49 PM »

I have no idea where.... or what the problem is.  I don't think the quarter panel position is an issue. At the pinchweld where the forward edge of the quarter panel connects to the inner structure, the quarter panel doesn't extend extend past the inner structure which is original. That being the case, I don't think the the side panel can be pushed forward of it's original position.

I was worried with the aligning of the quarter panel, door and fender that the door got moved too far forward. But the gap between the top of the door panel and the windlace on the rear side panel is only 1/8 inch.

Is the forward edge of the door panel and the edge of the kick panel supposed to have some overlap or should there be a gap between them?

Can anyone comment from my photos if the relationship between the door panel and the kick panel .....and between the door panel and and rear side panel looks correct is is something obviously wrong?

307

Restoration / KICK PANEL... DOOR PANEL....REAR SIDE PANEL FITMENT

« on: November 19, 2013, 02:18:41 AM »

I am test fitting my kick panel.... to door panel....to rear seat side panel fitment after having had new quarter panels, new door skins, new fenders, and new inner and outer rockers put on my car.........It is a '68 coupe with the deluxe interior.

I am having an interference problem with the lower half of my door panels and my kick panels binding when the doors are closed.

Maybe I should have done this before all the final panel fitting was done on the side of the body but the quarter panels, doors, and fenders have all been fitted to each other and there is no going back on that now. This is a probem I didn't see coming.

The interior hasn't been in this car since 1988 and I have no reference pictures of how all three interior panels fit together as far as gaps or clearences.

The rear side panels are back as far as they will go and the windlaces are pushed tight against the pinchwelds of the quarter panels. The door shells are original to the car and the door panels are located in all their original holes. There is an eighth inch clearance between the top of the door panels and the windlaces. The kick panels are original to the car. I don't have them screwed in but I can't push them back any further.

When I close the doors, the upper half of the door panels slide behind the kick panels but the lower half of the door panels binds against the kick panels, trying to push the kick panels forward. And since the kick panels can't go any further forward, they start to bow.

I am attaching some pictures of how all these panels fit togther. Hopefully somome can tell me what's right or wrong with the way these panels all fit together and a solution on how to improve or fix the binding problem.

                     Thanks......Dave

308

Restoration / '68 fender "Camaro" script emblem location ???

« on: November 12, 2013, 05:11:03 PM »

I am trying to figure out how to locate the "Camaro" script emblems on the new fenders of my '68.

I can locate them vertically with the dimensions from the AIM with no problem as it gives dimensions from body line peak. Horizontally, the AIM gives the dimensions from a reference line whick looks to be the front of the firewall and would be harder to do......I was hoping I could get a dimension from the rear edge of the fender measured at the body peak line.

I made templates from my orignal fenders but was suprised when I compared the templates side by side two.  The edge of the emblem itself (not the holes) to the rear edge of the fender at the body peak line differed from side to side by 1 1/8 inches. This may be correct but I would have thought that this dimension would have been about the same on each side. That the emblem itself on each side would be in the same place even though they are facing oppsite directions

I had access to two other original fenders (assembly line take-offs) to take measurements on and the emblem location on them was different from my originals. One of them by FOUR inches!

So I don't know what is right and what is wrong.

I was hoping someone with emblems they know are in the factory correct locations could measure on their car the dimensions I have circled in red in the photos of my templates.......or could provide any other dimensions I could use to get these emblems in the right spot.

Thanks.....Dave

309

Restoration / Re: Spare tire hold down bracket location ???

« on: November 12, 2013, 01:30:02 PM »

Mike, thank you for the picture.

When I visit the body shop where my car is at later today, I will check to see if the dimples are there in the reproduction trunk floor.

310

Restoration / Re: Spare tire hold down bracket location ???

« on: November 12, 2013, 03:07:07 AM »

69Z28-RS.......Thanks again for taking the time to take those pictures. I notice that your bracket is not in the same location as the one in the first picture I provided. That is not my car in that picture and I have no idea if that bracket is in the original location or not.

I wonder if someone could take the dimensions I am showing in this picture were dimension "A" is from the centerline of the bracket to the center of the curve where the trunk floor transitions from the flat part to the sloped part............and dimension "B" is from the centerline of the bracket to the center of the stamped ribs.

It would be interesting to see if the bracket is in the same place on most cars or if this is one of those "it's different on every car" situations.

Thanks......... Dave

311

Restoration / Re: Spare tire hold down bracket location ???

« on: November 12, 2013, 01:53:46 AM »

Thank you for the photos.

My car is a '68 hardtop.....Sorry, I sould have included that.

312

Restoration / Spare tire hold down bracket location ???

« on: November 11, 2013, 02:09:42 PM »

Does anyone have any reference dimensions to properly locate the spare tire hold down bracket in the trunk?

313

Restoration / Re: Re-coding an original door lock

« on: November 11, 2013, 01:54:02 PM »

On my '68, the same key is used for the doors and the ignition and the other key fits the trunk and glove box.

You've got nothing to lose by calling a couple of locksmiths. I am not 100% sure but I think they can be recoded.

Dave

314

Restoration / 68 standard grill to body gap problem.

« on: November 05, 2013, 01:07:36 PM »

I am trying to find out how much of a gap, if any at all, should be between the outer edges (sides) of a 68 standard grille headlight bezel and the opening in the fender. I have about 3/16 of an inch on both sides. This seems like a lot to me. I know I have seen cars out there with almost no gap at all. I did not have gaps like this before the car was taken apart.

Every component of the nose of the car is GM except the fenders which are AMD.......The plastic grille center is an NOS GM piece. The lower valance is a GM assembly line take off. The header, the upper and lower grille moldings, and the headlight bezels are original pieces of the car.

This being the case, it seems the variable is the AMD fenders. I tried to compare the bezel opening on them to an orignal GM fender. They seem a hair bigger but not 3/16 bigger.

Is there any cure to close up these gaps or an I stuck with it?

315

Restoration / Re: Heater core - rebuild or buy new ???

« on: October 31, 2013, 02:20:17 AM »

I know I have one leak. What concerns me is if they fix that leak, how do you know there is not a weak joint somewhere else ready to go in the near future after it installed?

I never knew too much about radiators and just watched a couple of videos on how they are constructed. Will a radiator shop re-solder all the joints, freshening them up and making them as strong as new again?

When they re-core a radiator, what do they actually replace? Are only the tanks re-used and everything else new?

Thanks.....Dave