Messages

571

General Discussion / Re: Z28 master cylinder #309

« on: December 01, 2012, 06:50:00 PM »

The 2nd inner piston assembly can be difficult to locate as a service part by itself so I bought a cheap service replacement master cylinder to cannabalize for the internals.  I used Apple Hydraulics to do the sleeving and assembled it myself.  I would use Apple again.

-Mark.

572

Originality / Re: Temp sensor

« on: November 23, 2012, 04:41:23 PM »

"Straight pin" with no head on it is original and difficult to find.  The "nail head" is what the commonly available service replacement sensors have looked like for years.  That is why all the harnesses have been "modified" with spade clips added over the past 40 years or so.

-Mark.

573

Originality / Re: 9204 brake booster on ebay

« on: November 19, 2012, 05:07:12 PM »

Another data point - My early '69 (10A) has the original master cylinder/cover and booster rebuilt by Steve Gregori. It does have the upside down Delco stamping but does not have the "9204" stamps - blank pads.

-Mark.

574

Maintenance / Re: source for 69 Z28 Exhaust Pipes?

« on: November 15, 2012, 05:14:58 PM »

Gardner's

575

General Discussion / Re: did cowl hooded cars have under hood lights

« on: November 10, 2012, 03:42:07 PM »

That's because cars that were originally equipped with a cowl hood are so rare to begin with. To have the light would be even rarer.

-Mark.

576

1969 - Orphans / Re: 9N515365 V09I7DZ block on e-bay

« on: November 08, 2012, 03:36:41 PM »

Main cap bolts are not correct (not windage tray studs), heads are not correct (earlier style with no acessory holes, wrong numbers in description as well), bellhousing is way wrong. Maybe the block should be sold separate?  I did not see the block cast date?  I would not want to pay to ship that bellhousing and the heads are only good for resale.  Just some observations.

577

Originality / Re: 1969 brake pads

« on: October 10, 2012, 07:30:42 PM »

D52 was the generic part number when I was a counter person. Super common fitting a TON of GM cars.  Nothing special at all.

-Mark.

578

Decoding/Numbers / Re: Tonowanda enging codes

« on: September 26, 2012, 09:17:51 PM »

SBC 3-digit engine suffix that starts with "T" are usually out of a TRUCK application and are desireable because of the 4-bolt mains. If the suffix starts with "C" it is more likely to be for a CAR.

-Mark.

579

Maintenance / Re: Vacuum Advance

« on: September 18, 2012, 07:47:28 PM »

Lower the throttle to get to about 950 RPM. The rise in RPM when you go to manifold vacuum is expected. 

If your diverter valve still holds vacuum, you might keep it functional. I would not. The vacuum tap on the carb should not be allowed to leak. If it is not used for anything else (choke pull off?) you need to cap it.  The nipple on the diverter valve does not need to be pluged.

-Mark.

580

Restoration / Re: 302 engine build piston recomendations

« on: September 18, 2012, 03:37:40 PM »

Hypereutectic pistons do not tolerate detonation or high RPM very well. Lots of pictures on the net of top ring grooves blowing out when used hard. You will find plenty of people blaming the installer not opening up the ring gap like they were advised when they bought the Hypereutectics but even with that, there are too many broken high performance hypereutectic pistons out there.  The castings do not behave the same as a forging when subject to hard use.  High heat causes the top ring gap to close up and butt and then the piston blows out at the top ring with a big chunk of aluminum flying aound causing all kinds of damge. That is why you pay more for forgings.  In a "driver" L48 type stock application they make a lot of sense and yes I would use them there but I can't see puting them in a 302 that will be driven like it was intended. Too much RPM's, and potential for detonation.    JMO.

-Mark.

581

Restoration / Re: Muncie gears

« on: September 06, 2012, 08:23:42 AM »

The cheap syncro rings are cast, not forged. Get the better ones from Paul at www.5speeds.com  He also has the special tools if you need them. It would be best to call and speak to him directly.

Get the proper non-ferrous pilot bushing from him while you are on the phone buying those tranny parts. They are getting very hard to find in the right material. The now common (magnetic) ones you find at the parts store can make a lot of transient galling sounds on the input shaft. With the tranny in gear and the clutch pedal down it can make a growling sound that can be misdiagnosed as a bad throwout bearing.

582

Restoration / Re: springs on 69z

« on: August 29, 2012, 07:33:33 PM »

Here is a picture looking down at the top of the frame pocket where the the spring will install. The dust shield is pulled away and the shock absorber is visible. The small 1/8" hole in the spring pocket is where the tail of the spring will be visible if the spring is clocked right. It is about a half inch away from the end of the formed pocket.  The spec is shown in UPC 3 of the AIM but it is a bit confusing.



-Mark.

583

Restoration / Re: springs on 69z

« on: August 28, 2012, 02:46:29 PM »

There is a tiny hole in the upper spring pocket. That is where the end of the tail of the spring will be visible through the hole if you have the spring clocked right.  You are not supposed to rotate it all the way down into the bottom of the lower A-Arm tail pocket.

-Mark.

584

Maintenance / Re: '69 blower fan replacement

« on: August 24, 2012, 03:35:19 PM »

It is easier than it sounds. Loosten the 2 fasteners on the fender bottom, pull out the inner wheel well screws and swing the fender away from the car. Block it with a piece of wood.

-Mark.

585

General Discussion / Re: Starter clicking before start

« on: August 14, 2012, 03:26:48 PM »

First check the battery condition and connections. If good, then look for a high resistance or splice in the purple wire to the "S" terminal to the starter solenoid.

You can check for high resistance in the electrical system by using a screwdriver to jump across the large 12V cable to the "S" Terminal on the starter. If it cranks while jumping the terminals but it will not crank with the key, then you have a high resistance in the circuit. The old school Ford relay mod is still the one I use. I use the relay to send 12V directly to the "S" terminal on the starter only.  The factory wiring and cables are not cut or modified in any way. You just run the factory purple wire to the "S" terminal on the Ford relay and make up a light guage 12V feed to one of the Ford heavy terminals and another light guage wire from the other heavy lug back to the starter "S" terminal. Never have an issue after that.  Makes hooking up a remote starter switch easy too. Nobody likes this mod but it does work.

-Mark.