Messages

556

Maintenance / Re: M55A oil pump question revisited.

« on: April 05, 2013, 05:39:30 PM »

You might just use a stock oil pump and add the GM high pressure spring.  It is something like $4 and it makes sense if your pump is still good.  Most pumps have very little wear and they have a known good casting.  Just a thought.  Don't buy in to all the hype.

-Mark.

557

Restoration / Re: Restoring emblems

« on: April 05, 2013, 05:33:58 PM »

My experiment back 25 years ago with Testors model enamel looked great at first but it did not hold up to the UV very long. I chipped the paint back off and then left them alone after that. They aren't perfect but they do look original now. YRMV

-Mark.

558

Restoration / Re: "68 Rear bumper mounting trouble.....hole to hole check dimensions available?

« on: March 29, 2013, 06:50:13 PM »

The repro holes can be a nightmare as well as the technique used to fit the panels to the body. I hope your signal light holes are better fit than mine were. They are bad but the body is already painted. Too late for me now. I did fit the bumper first and it did help BUT I assumed the signal lights were going to just go together like original. I was very wrong.  I would advise everyone to fully test fit ALL trim pieces before the car goes in for final bodywork and paint. It is too difficult to fix after the fact.

-Mark.

559

General Discussion / Re: It's Baack-----2014 Z28

« on: March 29, 2013, 03:20:36 PM »

It has a high revving 427 that makes big power so how bad could it be??? Air conditioner is an option. I don't think you can get much of a radio.  Not exactly "light" but they did take a few pounds out of it.  While It has the flavor of the original there is no big name sanctioned race to compete against the bad guys.  I like it but there seems to be a little bit of the excitement missing.  Good job overall but I will probably just keep my blown 2010 SS. (and my '69)

-Mark.

560

Maintenance / Re: Front Brake pads - 69 Z

« on: March 05, 2013, 05:16:14 PM »

IMO - Keep the original pads for shows and drive on current production pads. Easy to swap out when needed.

-Mark.

561

Restoration / Re: Mirror mounting holes

« on: February 22, 2013, 03:45:20 PM »

The 2 holes you question in the photo are both aftermarket modifications. The 3 holes in the middle are factory.

You would need the interior door panels to tell if it had a remote mirror.  Even then, it is not proof. The interior panels could have come from another car. The adjustment knob hole (and bezel) would have been installed in the interior panel.  Custom interior uses a different bezel than the standard interior.

All of the door skins would have the same hole setup.

-Mark.

562

Restoration / Re: Mirror mounting holes

« on: February 21, 2013, 10:49:01 PM »

The remote mirror uses the same factory holes as the standard mirror. The non-reinforced holes are aftermarket mirror holes.

563

Originality / Re: 1969 muncie speedo capplug

« on: February 18, 2013, 04:28:11 PM »

I have a 10A '68 built '69 and still have the original black speedo caplug.  I replaced it during the restoration but kept it just for historical value.  It is in a bin out in the garage and I have not seen it in a few years but I can tell you it does not have a Chrysler emblem on it.  I have also owned my car for 33 years.

 If I can find it, I wll check it again.

-Mark.

564

Decoding/Numbers / Re: X77 Cowl tag, Real GM?

« on: February 08, 2013, 05:50:55 PM »

I have seen real cars without any dope in the rivets so if you see that, don't let that scare you off by itself.

565

Originality / Re: 69 smallblock (302) Oil dip sticks

« on: January 31, 2013, 03:48:00 PM »

They were not originally "green tipped" but some dip sticks sold as service replacements are. The picture you posted with the flatened handle end looks more like what I would expect to see as production line pieces.

-Mark.

566

Restoration / Re: 1969 remote outside mirror

« on: January 29, 2013, 08:13:02 PM »

My memory is a little fuzzy but I seem to remember that the cables need to be disconnected adjustment knob end VERY CAREFULLY.  You will need to reconnect them once the mirror has been rechromed. Try to push them up and out of the staked holder. The cables are spring loaded.

-Mark.

567

Decoding/Numbers / Re: Trim Tag Numbers

« on: December 08, 2012, 04:40:22 PM »

I have one built later that same week and it has the normative practice "NOR".  The "O" may have been lost earlier that week or the stamp may have been loaded wrong just for that one day?  Just throwing it out there as a possibillity.

-Mark.

568

Restoration / Re: Floor pans

« on: December 06, 2012, 03:42:09 PM »

My Advice: Keep as much original metal as possible and patch the floor holes where even you can.  It just works out better that way.  Stronger and keeps its shape better that way. JMO.

-Mark.

569

Maintenance / Re: Which Master Cylinder Repair Kit?

« on: December 02, 2012, 07:52:45 PM »

Gary,
The DOT 5 thing is a constant internet battle. The theoretical problem with using DOT 5 after DOT 3 is the rubber stuff supposedly absorbs the DOT 3 and any moisture it absorbed during service. The theory is it will leach out an cause corrosion after the DOT 5 is added. New rubber parts should not need to worry about that. I used DOT 5 during the system rebuild and never looked back. I would do it again in a heartbeat. Zero maintenance in 10 years and it still stops like a new car.

-Mark.

570

Maintenance / Re: Which Master Cylinder Repair Kit?

« on: December 01, 2012, 06:53:27 PM »

Gary, I'm assuming you have your original master cylinder, and if so, do what I did. Go to your local auto parts store and get a REBUILT MASTER CYLINDER. They're only $17 or so, which is about 10 bucks cheaper than the rebuild kit!!

Transfer all the internals from the rebuilt one into yours (and put your old parts back in the rebuilt one), and then return it as the core and you'll be up and running again! All the internal parts are the same between the original and the rebuilt, so it's an easy swap. Not only that, but NONE of the rebuild kits come with the secondary piston which is usually chewed up more than the primary!

Ed

Same here. I just posted in the other MC rebuild thread. This IS the way to go.

-Mark.