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Messages - Stingr69

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General Discussion / Re: nos door sill plates with rivets
« on: December 08, 2009, 07:23:56 PM »
You can add some close replacement rivits to your sill plates if you want.  I bought some of these rivits a few years ago and installed them. They look rather good if you ask me. Let me know if you want to see a picture. I think I have the guys email address somewhere. They don't cost too much. I know he had a BUNCH made at the time.


Maintenance / Re: slight hesitation
« on: December 07, 2009, 08:50:32 PM »
Pump adjustment is the first thing that comes to mind.
I am with Steve.

You must not have ANY slack in the accelerator pump linkage AND have about .015" ADDITIONAL travel available on the pump arm with the throttle open all the way so you do not bottom out the accelerator pump when you floor it to WOT.

What color accelerator pump cam are you running?


Restoration / Re: Original tachometer
« on: November 30, 2009, 03:30:41 PM »
It's going to look great when it's done! :)


Mild Modifications / Re: 327 Engine Mods.
« on: November 28, 2009, 12:11:53 PM »
Looks like a nice street beast. I may be posting a bit late. But have you thought of using a sloid lifter cam ? They are very responsive. Here is a good example of a nice cam to use. It is the Lunati PN 20108 LK . It is particularly well suited to a 10 to 1 compression ratio 327. It is lunati's copy of the Duntov cam.
 It's static compression ratio is 10 / 1

Dynamic compression ratio is     8.23 / 1

So it will run quite happily all day on 91 octane gas

Most importantly the powerband is between 1800 and 6200 rpm. Thats a 4400 rpm wide band !!
This is quite a good cam for a light Camaro with a 4 speed stick, you will have plenty of low down torque

The valve lift  is .485 intake and .503 exhaust, so a good new set of chevy LT1 copy springs should live for a long time in this engine provided you dont miss to many shifts.  ;D

I agree - Solid lifter cam for a 327. That is the only way to fly in one of those in my opinion.


Mild Modifications / Re: mixing and matching cranks
« on: November 28, 2009, 12:05:26 PM »
Throw that block in the trash. The pistons will need to be be $$$ custom made. The bores will shroud the valves too. You will never get any HP improvement and it will cost more to build too.

350 blocks are inexpensive. Not quite as inexpensive as a 307 block but still.....  :)


Restoration / Re: Original tachometer
« on: November 27, 2009, 02:34:11 PM »
I added the whole guage package to my car. The dash carrier was removed so it was a little bit easier. The cut outs were done with a flat blade tip on a soldering gun. It goes nice and slow kind of like a warm knife through cold butter. Stinky, yes but it gets the job done.  Once installed it looks like a factory job.

Just a pet peeve of mine - I would be sure to add some type of center dash guage at the same time you add the tach. There were (2) ways to order a tach. It came along with a center dash fuel guage OR you ordered it with the center dash clock along with the whole console guage package. If you don't put something else in there it just looks strange.

I know, I know - It's not my car so you can do what ever you want. :)

Hope this helps,


General Discussion / Re: Rare 67 Z28
« on: November 27, 2009, 02:15:52 PM »
dudes how can you possibly know what came through the back or front door of GM during the no racing policy .just recently i read an article on GM sbc aluminum heads casted in 1958 how rare are those.just a thought

OT - The aluminum heads were not a big success. If they would have worked, they would not be so rare today. ;)

Here is a pic:


Originality / Re: Original Air Cleaner for 69 SS
« on: November 26, 2009, 04:02:30 PM »
What you say may be the actual case but it makes it very difficult to prove a restoration is back to its factory/showroom condition. If they ran out of chrome lids it might be evidenced by painted lids after a certain build date.   

What you say is true but not always relevant. The term "restoration" means different things to different people.
Did the factory build cars using the wrong parts some times? - Yes! 
Were they supposed to do that? - No.

Restoration for a particular car can mean that a car is returned to it's original "as delivered" condition with any non-spec parts OR does it mean "returned to normative practice" with all the correct specified parts.
Normative practice is more like what the factory should have built given the time and proper specified parts.  "As Delivered" might mean the car had some parts that were not exactly per spec but that is what that particular car had leaving the factory.

If you do not have any STRONG physical evidence IN YOUR HANDS to show others that a particular car was delivered with parts that were not correct "normative practice" you are shoveling sand into the ocean. There is no real reason for anyone to accept that these incorrect parts are original for that car.

The car in question has numerous aftermarket replacement parts all over the engine bay. it is not possible to say with any certainty how much of this example is "original to the car" but we can determine if the parts and pieces are aftermarket or "normative practice" from research, casting numbers and date codes etc. Thats about all we can ever know.


Face it at a mirror in the bathroom and you will be able to read it better. ;)

That is a cool thing to have!


Decoding/Numbers / Re: Newbie w/69 needs help please.
« on: November 26, 2009, 03:36:40 PM »
It's a very nice looking hot rod. :)

Tag seems to indicate Lemans Blue car with white standard interior. We would need to see the tag to say any more about it.


Maintenance / Re: power steering leak
« on: November 25, 2009, 01:49:51 PM »
A pump overhaul is fairly easy. The pulley may require a special tool but they are available to borrow for free. A little heat can get it off if you are carefull. You may be leaking between the pump and the resevoir. Buy the inexpensive overhaul kit and have a go at it.


General Discussion / Re: 350 Thermostat
« on: November 24, 2009, 01:21:57 PM »
Start by checking for flow. Feel the lower hose to see if it is hot. If not, you do not have flow. Clogged radiator can do that but this is not as common as a stuck thermostat. I have seen one water pump im my life that lost it's impeller, but that is very rare.

You can test your thermostat (new or old) in a pot of hot water on the stove. If it opens at 180, or what ever the temp rating on the stat (before boiling at 212) you are good to go.


Restoration / Re: Rear Springs
« on: November 23, 2009, 08:05:02 PM »
I thought Bob had Detroit Eaton make him a run of those correct springs. Is that right?

FYI - My first set of Detroit Eaton springs did ride a little high. I called them about it and gave them exact measurements to adjust the height and they sent out (4) new custom springs that were DEAD NUTS exactly the right ride height as I requested. They paid the freight to return the first set and sent UPS truck when I told them I was ready. No extra charge. These replacement springs are not 100% technicaly correct but they fit and get the job done. There are some slight visual detail differences from original but unless you have a 100 point car, those regular springs are fine.


Be prepared to massage the tube closest to the steering box. I marked mine with a sharpie and modified it with a spark plug socket and a hammer.  ;)  No biggie.

I went back to the stock manifolds and chambered exhaust after that and those fit just fine.  ;D


Maintenance / Re: 302 bellhousing and starter not fitting??
« on: November 16, 2009, 03:19:50 AM »
The "621" was used on a few 350's and many big block muscle cars. They are more rare and desireable so they go for more $$$. The "403" was used on MANY applications and should sell for consideably less $$$.

I may be a bit out of touch but I would try to pay $50 for a "403" and about $150 for a "621" if I purchased them locally. Ebay will probably go for more.


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