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Messages - Stingr69

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General Discussion / Re: Older post on O rods
« on: February 21, 2010, 05:05:55 PM »
The circle track guys are not having issues with stock rods when checked and prepped with better bolts so a well prepped set of stock rods with upgraded bolts is not a weak point. The only issue is the availabillty of a good shop to do the work and the cost. By the time you find a good shop, check your cores, maybe polish the beams, re-bolt, weight match, and resize, you are probably darn close to the cost of a set of Eagle SIR rods that already have the better bolts and are ready to install right out of the box. I have a set of Eagles in my 302 and the rods are definately not on my list of things to worry about. Cost was something like $225 if you know where to shop and they are made well.

Just another way to get the job done.


1969 - Orphans / Re: 19N500999 Engine on Ebay
« on: February 14, 2010, 04:17:02 PM »
Not seeing the stamps and codes makes it hard to tell if they are legit, restamps, or just read wrong. Probably a built up engine with some restamped pieces.

Just for grins I did a quick calculation on the retail sum of the parts. The starting price might not be all that far off.


Maintenance / Re: replacing heater core
« on: February 13, 2010, 06:21:29 PM »
A/C car may be different than the non-A/C car but it worked for me. You may be able to separate the outer fender from the inner fender and block it open with a piece of wood rather than pull the whole fender off. Loosten the lower fender to body bolts and the inner-outer fender well screws. Then see if that will get you in there. 

I think I used bolts and clip nuts in place of the original studs when the heater box went back together but that was a lot of years ago. Makes it easy to service if you ever have to go back in there again. I would only do that to the difficult to reach studs.

Hope this is helpfull.


Decoding/Numbers / Re: Fuel pump codes
« on: February 10, 2010, 07:12:06 PM »
OK - how about "40987"? Anybody know what that would have been used on?  The numbers are faint but that is what it looks like. There seems to be a "209" in front of that and it might be a space before the "40987" but any info would be good.

Treasure or Trash?!?!


Decoding/Numbers / Re: Fuel pump codes
« on: February 10, 2010, 05:36:33 PM »
I have what I believe is a 69 AC fuel pump. It has what appears to be "HH40669" stamped on the mounting flange of the pump. Can anyone decode this?

Jimmy V
I believe your "HH40669" AC fuel pump is dated August (the 1st "H") 1968 (the 2nd "H"). I have done a lot of research about AC fuel pumps during the last 20 years. It all started years ago when I found a 1966 Chevrolet 327 engine ("T0521HAR", May 21, 1966 with roch. 4bbl.) in a junk yard which had all of it's original components (carb, starter, distributor, fuel pump, etc.) according to the stamped part numbers and date codes.  I decoded the "4657EF" fuel pump to be May ("E") 1966 ("F").
My fuel pump date code theory is as follows:
The first letter is the month, A=Jan, "B"=Feb. ...........................L=Dec. (the letter "I" was used).
The second letter is the year, E=1965, F=1966, G=1967, H=1969.
NOTE: The AC pumps made in 1964 and prior do not have the 2 letter. I have an AC pump stamped only "4657" from a 1964.
Sometime in the early 1970's the date code changed to 3 numbers (the day of the year) and one letter (the year). I am still working ion this code.

Are you missing a letter for '68?

Thanks for the decode work. I like to save anything from my car that may have been on there originally. Not much is left but I do have a few potential pieces. The fuel pump is in my stash has been saved because it may be original. It was still functioning when I puilled it off a few years ago but if it really was "original" it was on borrowed time so I replaced it. It looks a lot like the one in the picture. I will take a look later to see if I need to save it or trash it. It might have been originally from the '68 Impala 327 that was in the car when I got it.

If the fuel pump part number and date line up on this piece, it will become part of the "permanant collection". :)


General Discussion / Re: any help
« on: February 08, 2010, 02:10:15 PM »
Stock has some advantages - they hold thier value, they cost less to build, they work, and you know when you are done.  You can't say that about a hot rod.

If the car is way too far gone from stock and you don't mind giving up some or all of the above then go ahead and mod it. You might even be able to avoid cutting it up with some effort. Many cars will cost more to return to stock than they are worth for resale.


You get to choose. :)


General Discussion / Re: Floor shifter versus column shifter
« on: February 04, 2010, 03:38:57 PM »
Nope, it is not worth more that way. If they have to tell you it's worth more, it isn't.


Looks like a prepackaged divorce kit - just add junkyard Camaro and you will be good to go. -HA!


Restoration / Re: restoration literature/guide/books
« on: January 29, 2010, 12:27:57 PM »
go to Classic Industries web site and type in part number "L95" and take a look at that book. I have a copy and it is VERY basic and inexpensive. Only 100 pages and just enough detail and pictures to show you what is involved and what you would need to do. It would be good for a first restoration book but not really detailed enough to do a full high end professional restoration. Just a "Restoration 101" type book. Pictures make all the difference.

Hope this helps,


Restoration / Re: restoration literature/guide/books
« on: January 25, 2010, 07:15:40 PM »
That depends on what you are trying to do. There are factory assembly manuals, numbers books, and chassis service manuals. There isn't just one good manual. You will need a custom set depending on your needs.


Restoration / Re: 3917291 sbc heads 2.02's or 1.94's
« on: January 25, 2010, 07:12:55 PM »
Thanks again...I assume 291's that came with 2.02's had the unshrouding done at the factory?

All of the "double hump" or "fuelie" style heads that were originally factory fitted with the larger 2.02"/1.6" valves will have the intake valve unshrouded like that picture John posted.


Decoding/Numbers / Re: Help on date coded block??
« on: January 24, 2010, 09:59:10 PM »
You are comparing the assembly date of the engine, as is mechanicaly stamped into the block, to the body build date shown on the Fisher Body trim tag. That means the engine assembly stamp was on average about 2 weeks before the body began assembly on a Z/28 that was produced during that time frame where your car was built. You will find some cars with dates closer and some that are farther apart because there was no "first in-first out" type inventory control. They were basicaly building components as fast as they were selling the cars at that time so there was not a lot of extra stuff laying around.


General Discussion / Re: Paint "Swatches" for Available Colors
« on: January 24, 2010, 05:03:57 PM »
You can purchase old DuPont paint catalog pages from dealers that specialize in that sort of thing. I have a set for '69. They are not that expensive.

If we had a reference picture of a car in each color that might be a worthy addition to the CRG site. I know there are plenty of pictures out there.


Mild Modifications / Re: 302 cam placement
« on: January 23, 2010, 09:28:39 AM »
After running the "30-30" for some time in my 302 I tried a Crane F-278-2 and that one worked a LOT better in my opinion. I don't ever think about switching back. It has about the same opening / closing points and wider lobe separation as the LT-1 but it has more lift. If you try to find another grind with those characteristics "on the shelf" you will have a tough time. The other solids available are all too narrow or too big.

Availability might be a problem right now but you have to think Crane camshafts will come back at some point soon.


Restoration / Re: what color combo to use with turquoise interior
« on: January 21, 2010, 12:05:50 PM »
Thats an easy one.  ;D  Something like this would be tastefull.

Beautiful combo! 8)


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