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Messages - Stingr69

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Maintenance / Re: M-21 lube leaking out of the speedo cable
« on: August 16, 2009, 10:25:54 AM »
I tried royal purple and it was slightly more noisy and leaked for me as well. We could argue the reasons but bottom line is I would go back to GL-4 dino 90Wt and look at replacing the O-ring on the speedo gear holder.  Leave the speedo cable attached, loosten the tiny screw that holds the retainer and swing the retainer out of the way, then use the speedo cable to pull the whole thing out so you can get the O-ring replaced.

Definately go back to the GL-4 90Wt gear oil. Synthetic is not good for the brass in your transmission. 90Wt will be quieter, it will leak less, and the brass synchro rings will be much happier.


General Discussion / Re: hello,, new to the group
« on: August 11, 2009, 07:25:44 PM »
D&R Classic has a lot of parts as well.
Some things will have to come from the used parts vendors or Ebay but 95% of what you will need can come from any of the vendors.


Maintenance / Re: Generator Dash Light
« on: August 11, 2009, 01:14:05 PM »
I would be tearing it down to check the diodes. They should all have continuity in only one direction, not both directions. You may have one that goes both ways.


General Discussion / Re: Oil Filters...
« on: August 07, 2009, 02:48:10 PM »
Wix, Napa Gold, Purolator are all made well, easy to find and reasonably priced. The rest are either not made as well or cost too much to be worth the expense IMHO.


General Discussion / Re: big block motor mount help
« on: July 31, 2009, 04:11:50 PM »
From my experience, you need ALL the right stuff to make it work right.

The engine stands are different for a BB engine and they are designed to set the engine a little bit off-set from center. They bolt to the frame. The motor mounts are part of the locating system so they need to be right as well. If you have the right stands and mounts, the shifter mounting bracket needs to be right as well or it will not locate properly in the floorpan causing issues with console fit. They all work together. You can bolt it in with small block stuff but that makes for alignment problems, vibration problems, fit problems, etc.


Restoration / Re: Leaf Springs When Restoring
« on: July 30, 2009, 12:31:23 PM »
Eaton makes good springs. I bought a full set for my car and they rode just a bit too high. They worked from my measurements and made a custom replacement set to drop the height to the exact ride height I wanted. They sent a UPS truck and a shipping label to return the original set they sent once I got them off. No extra charge.   8) This time they nailed it dead nuts.

The usual design they sell you is not a 100% correct spring in appearance. They did build the 100% correct spring but I think it was more expensive. It might have been a minimum quantity run as well but my memory is not real good about that. I have slept quite a few times since then. ;) My car did not need the 100% spring so it was not much of an issue to me.


Restoration / Re: How to convert from R12 to R134 on a 69 Camaro
« on: July 27, 2009, 12:17:55 PM »
I bought a case of R12 in the small cans. $250 if I remember right. You may need a HVACR Lisc # though.


General Discussion / Re: r12 freon versus replacement freeze 12
« on: July 26, 2009, 05:37:34 PM »
Use the real R-12 if your system is still functional and leak free. The refrigerant costs a bit more but there are benefits especialy of you have a nice otherwise original car.

R12 works, it requires no modifications, you can top it off if you get low, most anyone can work on it too. The majority of replacements have issues - flamable, can not be topped off - you have to remove and replace it all if you have a slow leak, not everyone has the setup to work on oddball refrigerants, etc. My advice is to keep running the genuine R12 untill you need a major service.

If the system is broken, this may be a goo time to bite the bullet and change it over to 134a.


General Discussion / Re: Repro Spiral Shocks
« on: July 23, 2009, 01:58:33 PM »
I have tried several types of shocks on my car. The KYB's were VERY stiff, especialy in the rear and were promptly removed (sold on Epay). The next set was some Bilstein HD's. Bilstein did not offer the "Sport" versions for my '69 Camaro or I would have tried them. I have REALLY enjoyed the Bilstein Sports on my C3 Vette but these "HD" shocks from Bilstein were a bit of a dissapointment on the Camaro, especially so considering the $$$ cost. They vastly improved over the KYB's but I felt there was still some room for improvement in ride available. I don't expect it to ride like a Fleetwood Bougham but it should not ride like a hard tail chopper either. Handling is important but these old cars will never handle anywhere near what a new one does. You might has well save your dental work while you drive.

The current good setup is basic cheap Monroe gas shocks and these are staying on the car. I am pleased with the ride and not too frustrated with the handling. It handles probably close to original and they are not expensive either.

Anyone want a good deal on a set of Bilstein HD's? :)


Restoration / Re: GM Mark of Excellence Decal
« on: July 20, 2009, 02:16:08 PM »
You should visit the AIM to see which decals were included and where they go. If it isn't shown there, it wasn't supposed to be installed there.

LOTS of improperly restored cars out there that show the GM decals wrong. I also own a Camaro reference book with lots of improperly restored car pictures in it so even there you need to use the AIM to get it 100% right.


I tried the 30-30 both with cast iron manifold and with 1-3/4" headers. The rest of the exhaust was factory style chambered exhaust so it was not the best. Not real thrilled with the results either way.

The car runs a LOT better for me now that I switched to the Crane F-278. The opening and closing points are almost identical to the LT-1 cam BUT the lift is higher so it is like an LT-1 grind with a little bit more. VERY nice improvement in the low end and it still pulls hard at higher RPM. I doubt it leaves much on the table. I have no plans to swap it again any time soon. I guess Crane is no longer in the business but maybe you could have one ground with the same specs?

I think John H. runs the LT-1 cam in his 302. Maybe he will have something to add.


General Discussion / Re: Info for rebuilding a 1969 Muncie M21
« on: July 16, 2009, 06:55:04 PM »

There is a good link above for parts and info. I own the book and it is pretty good. Paul also sells a video that is supposed to be a great reference.

The gear stack can be pressed off. Some people will drop the mainshaft on a piece of plywood using inertia to dislodge the gears but that seems a bit too crude for my taste.

I have never reskined a tranny case but Jerry has done a set of valve covers for me. Reskinning looks great but you can't do it yourself. For a tranny I would probably just use simple green and a scrub brush.

You might have a magnet in the bottom of your case. It would be there to catch steel chips from gear teeth etc.

Hope this helps,


Originality / Re: Help with 302 MO block repair
« on: July 13, 2009, 08:11:20 PM »
Get a different block. This one you have is not original to your car so there isn't any sensible reason to take expensive drastic measures to save it. Nobody really cares unless it is the block it was born with.


General Discussion / Re: what if
« on: July 10, 2009, 11:36:42 AM »
We frame-offed a 307 car 1.5-2 years ago.  Back to factory specs aside from a PDB conversion that was done prior (would prefer an OE setup) and a set of Cragars (owner's preference).  Flat hood, no stripes, no spoilers.

From a strictly financial stanpoint, and whether or not you'll get your money back out of it when it comes time to sell, might not be the best choice.  That wasn't the issue with the one we did, it carries heavy sentimental value.

But I dig the car.  One, Azure is beautiful.  Secondly, it's very unique.

Did I see that car at Toad Suck Daze? I swear I  have seen it before. The brake booster and 307 was the tip off for me. You don't see restored 307's too often. The car looks even better in person than it does here and it looks great here. I don't remember the Cragars but they may have been on there.

Great Job - Pretty car. :)


Decoding/Numbers / Re: Early Production 1969
« on: July 06, 2009, 05:53:34 PM »
It has been messed with. VIN rivets are not OE.
I saw that but did not comment. The hidden VIN derivative stamps migt not match the VIN tag. If the tags were swapped, you have to ask the question "why"? It wasn't a HP car in the first place so there must be another reason. If the tag and the hidden stamps do match the owner may have planned to change the rusty dash panel before giving up on the project.


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