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Messages - Stingr69

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Decoding/Numbers / Re: Caveat Emptor - 124379N580xxx X11 307 car to X77 Z/28
« on: September 22, 2018, 01:35:34 PM »
 My bet - The floors are WAY too far gone.  We will never see that sad shell on the road again. 

Decoding/Numbers / Re: Inaccurate Partial VIN on Engine!?
« on: September 13, 2018, 12:12:08 PM »
Seems possible that the gang stamp holder still had all the numbers in it from the previous car and it was re-used in error.  The error was likely discovered and then corrected.  I would believe it.

Sounds like a cool project.

« on: September 13, 2018, 01:39:33 AM »
I think the big block base was same as small block base but the spacer ring was used to make up the difference in height.

General Discussion / Re: Setting up valve springs?
« on: September 13, 2018, 01:36:34 AM »
I never buy those kits.  Just never made sense to me as I end up needing to replace the stuff in the kits because I usually need different stuff.  You can try to use it.  You still need to set up the parts kit or no kit.

You must take measurements and set up the shims individually for each valve regardless of them being virgin or not.  Be sure to use the right style valves if you replace any.  If you use aftermarket retainers then this next part about o-ring seals does not apply to you. The majority of aftermarket replacement valves do not have the grooves for stock type seals so if you want run stock o-ring seals, find the valves that have the extra seal grooves (Melling valves do). 

The heads get refurbished by the shop and I assemble them myself after a thorough cleaning once they come home.  ALWAYS CLEAN ENGINE PARTS YOURSELF after the machine shop returns them to you. THEY DO NOT CLEAN THEM ENOUGH... AND THEY NEVER WILL.  All the individual spring pocket heights get measured and the shims required for each valve are calculated and written down.  Then the guides get moly paste lube inside and the heads are assembled. I like my NAPA screw down valve spring compressor best but I have several others I have used at different times. Lever style, giant C-clamp style. Preference depends a lot on the seal type I am using at the time.

Mild Modifications / Re: Prothane poly bushings in leafsprings
« on: September 13, 2018, 12:49:04 AM »
I use the poly on the sub frame bushings, but when it comes to suspension, I prefer (and use) plain ole rubber.
Thats what I did.  Have a set of original rubber a-frame bushings to install some day. 

Decoding/Numbers / Re: Inaccurate Partial VIN on Engine!?
« on: September 13, 2018, 12:46:52 AM »
Yes - I = September, so my bad.

Decoding/Numbers / Re: Inaccurate Partial VIN on Engine!?
« on: September 12, 2018, 01:20:43 PM »
HD L-65 is 350 cube 250 HP with a 2 barrel carb.  Pictures would help a lot.  Transmission VIN derivative stamp should match the engine VIN derivative stamp so we will want to compare them.  They were both done at the same time with the same setup according to normative practice.  The "L" September casting date but assembled in February makes me pause.  Those dates should be much closer. 

Not many would re-stamp an HD engine so time to look harder at the numbers pictures.

Decoding/Numbers / Re: 3970010 engine decode help
« on: September 11, 2018, 01:59:53 PM »
The T in the suffix gives it away as a Truck engine and the fact that it has a 3 letter suffix tells you it is not '69.  '69 uses a 2 letter suffiix code.  This block is from the 70's.  The VIN derivative is probably under the paint on the stamp pad to the left of the assembly stamp. 

General Discussion / Re: Setting up valve springs?
« on: September 11, 2018, 01:52:15 PM »

Not a pro here, just trying to help.
Darrell posted some good links.  Those guys are racing and do a lot of tear down, check and reassemble but maybe you will just build it once and drive?  Those guys will add shims as the spring looses pressure over time until you cant add more shims.  At that point, they replace a spring. Tear downs and checks happen pretty regularly for those guys.   

I do not do that.  Maybe pay attention to what they are doing, and just do it one time to set up your heads. 

The spring requirements are set by the cam supplier.  The required seat pressure and spring rate are what you need to keep in mind.  The "spring rate" is how stiff it is as it compresses.  The spring will provide a stiffness described as "pounds of force per inch of deflection".  How stiff is the spring?  Just math.... (Open pressure-seat pressure)/(installed height-open height) = Spring rate....expressed as "pounds of pressure/inch of deflection".  "Open pressure" comes from the "open height" spring specs, not the actual cam you are using so don't get confused.  Springs can work on more than one cam so the spring spec needs to be generic.

Installed height gives you "seat pressure".  Full actual cam lift gives you "nose pressure".  Need to have enough pressure to control the valve train but not so much that it wears or damages components.  Your valve train cost and complexity will increase as spring rate goes up. 

Add shims to provide the required seat pressure on a spring that meets the spring rate required but make sure you have at least .030" available additional spring travel available before you go into full spring bind zero space between the coils.  Watch the actual installed nose pressure to determine if you need to upgrade the studs, rockers, seals, pushrods, guide plates, etc.


General Discussion / Re: One Owner '69 Z/28
« on: September 06, 2018, 12:48:54 PM »
I am going to go buy it out from under you. 

:~D  -Just kidding!


General Discussion / Re: rebuilt engin startup
« on: September 06, 2018, 12:46:38 PM »
Dont forget water in the cooling system and a fire extinguisher.  The GM Engine Break-In Oil Additive is the best.  If you have factory stamped steel rocker arms you want to run the tighter lash spec.  If you are using aftermarket rockers you can set them at the looser spec. The tighter spec was based off of the factory pieces. 

If you want to be persnickety you can set the valves just zero lash at .020" LOBE lift (not at valve, measured at pushrod top travel) to lash aftermarket (or any other ratio) rockers with a GM spec 30-30 cam.  You need a dial indicator for this.  The GM spec lobes have a .020" slow lift portion of the ramp where all valve lash is taken up.  That is the exact point where all the lash is removed when the lash is set perfectly.  Snug the lash at the valve to zero while at .020" LOBE LIFT, rotate the cam way off the ramp (it is LONG) and measure the clearance at the valve. Use that measurement at the valve for setting all the valves with any rocker arm and a GM 30-30 cam. 

General Discussion / Re: One Owner '69 Z/28
« on: September 05, 2018, 02:58:10 PM »
Pad stamp is on dealers web site and looks good.  Lines up with block cast date just fine.

General Discussion / Re: Hello and a quick question
« on: August 27, 2018, 12:29:56 PM »
Corvette Bronze is amazing on a first gen Camaro.  It is your car so your call, but I would repaint it that way without reservation.  Some folks here would do it for originality reasons but a good color is also a good color to choose.

FWIW - When I restored mine I went with a color I prefer, rather than the original color (that I did not like). 

Maintenance / Re: another 4053 question
« on: August 24, 2018, 03:36:32 PM »
Verify all the float levels first.
Idle transfer slot opening needs to look like a square. Start there and then reinstall to adjust the mix screws.  Only a guess but if slot opening is too small, you could be pulling more fuel at tip-in.
I actually have used the initial timing to move idle speed around in some cases while the butterflies are left alone in the square slot position.  I just recurve the centrifugal to match 36 degrees at the top once I nail down the idle initial advance.  Just crazy me.

These carbs are pretty rich and it takes a wideband to fine tune them but it can be done.

Restoration / Re: Front Seat Installation
« on: August 21, 2018, 11:25:26 AM »
No holes punched.  Carpet had a slit cut along both sides of the foot that allows carpet to fold back over and cover the foot and bolt head.

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