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Messages - Stingr69

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Maintenance / Re: Vapor lock?
« on: June 26, 2017, 12:44:14 PM »
Carb is hot.  Not the fuel line.  You are cooking the carb.

Maintenance / Re: 68 Muncie talishaft
« on: May 29, 2017, 01:44:14 PM »
The only way to mix-match this setup is to use:

'69 and up "bolt-on" style shift shafts.
'69 and up "bolt-on" style shift shaft levers
linkage for a '69
'69 GM shifter mounting bracket OR a Hurst 2-piece '69 only specific mounting bracket.
'69 Camaro/Firebird specific shifter

Tail housing is fine, transmission case is fine.

Console will fit and install as original.


The only other option is to install the complete '68 Hurst aftermarket assembly. It will still work well. MUCH better than the original GM Muncie shifter. 

Been there, done that, t-shirt does not fit anymore.  ;)

Maintenance / Re: 68 Muncie talishaft
« on: May 29, 2017, 01:12:30 AM »

'69 Muncie was a 1 year only setup. '70 and up had a completely different 3-hole tailshaft bolting pattern. '68 and older Muncies had the same tailshaft housing but used a nut to retain the shift shaft levers so they got totally different install kits designed for the nut retained shifter shaft levers.
Aftermarket Hurst shifter install kits from back in the day designed for '69 Camaros re-used the original GM factory shifter mounting plate on the 5 hole tailshaft housing.  That tailshaft housing was common to Muncies '69 and earlier BUT the shift shaft levers on the side cover were different on 68 and older trannys and use a nut to attach levers to the shift shafts.  '69 was the first year to use a bolt to attach the shift shaft levers.  The '69 and up bolt on shifter shaft levers do not interchange with the older '68 style trannys.

Most other applications used the Hurst provided "universal" shifter mounting plate.
'68 Camaro was a different install kit and had different transmission levers designed for "bolt on" shift shafts.

At some point later, Hurst started providing a 2-piece mounting plate with the '69 Camaro shifter install kits. No need to source an original GM part.

Your bracket does not look to be installed right. 

Maintenance / Re: 69 Camaro Clutch Cross Shaft
« on: May 25, 2017, 01:54:29 PM »
Its tight.  I do not recall much pain but I like to use the ratcheting box wrench.

Originality / Re: Numbers Matching or Not?
« on: May 09, 2017, 12:51:40 PM »
Easy - not matching numbers rear axle. If it failed and was replaced, it isn't original.  Warranty replacements are not matching numbers.

Radio is aftermarket. Put in before or after delivery it is not "correct" assembly line equipment. Corvette judging they refer to "normative practice" where incorrect items loose points even if they were on there from the day it left the factory.

Put in a radio delete faceplate and it would be correct.

Mild Modifications / Re: Exhaust
« on: May 05, 2017, 01:03:10 PM »
I do not believe you will get any significant measurable increase in performance from switching the 2011 mufflers from stock.  You will change the sound but might actually loose some power.  These 5th gen Camaro exhausts were heavily engineered for sound and low restriction.  The "mufflers" are like empty metal suitcases inside.

Removing the cats might help power if you take them off.  Car will smell worse but maybe that is not an issue for you?

2010 Camaro SS 6speed, Supercharged, LS-9 cam, custom tune, stock exhaust.

Garage Talk / Re: Muncie side cover removal in car?
« on: April 21, 2017, 04:07:14 PM »
You can add a thin o-ring behind the shaft seal to assist in sealing.  Be sure to use sealer on the seal periphery. You tap the seal in just far enough to where the shaft is hard to turn because it compresses the oring.  The oring will bind the shaft a bit but once lube hits it and it breaks in, it will seal better


Suggestion - Chop up your spare shifter, fab and MIG tack weld yourself to be sure its right where you want it - then take it to a pro welder to finish it.

Mild Modifications / Re: Dz302 rod bolts
« on: February 24, 2017, 08:30:28 PM »
I spin mine up pretty high on Eagle full floating rods and never give them a thought. 

Mild Modifications / Re: Dz302 rod bolts
« on: February 23, 2017, 05:30:11 PM »
Why risk it?  Rod bolts are cheap insurance.

Maintenance / Re: 69 RF brake lock up?
« on: December 05, 2016, 08:25:56 PM »
Crazy idea....right front caliper is hooked up to one of the rear brake cylinder lines and the residual pressure valve is keeping pressure applied.  Trace the lines?  Test - Opening then closing the right front caliper bleeder screw would relieve the pressure in the caliper and the wheel would spin freely again. 

Maintenance / Re: Starting problems
« on: November 29, 2016, 02:47:53 PM »
The spring change would help if the starter solenoid would not even pull in.  No electricity would be sent to the starter motor windings and the bendix would not move. 

The extra torque starter would help if the solenoid did do its job, the bendix engaged the flywheel and electricity was sent to the electrical windings. In this situation, the engine would crank slow or it would just attempt to turn over.

Maintenance / Re: 69 RF brake lock up?
« on: November 29, 2016, 02:37:42 PM »
jack up front of car.  apply and release brakes. try to rotate right front wheel and see if it rotates freely.  If not, crack caliper bleeder screw open to release any pressure and try to rotate wheel again.  If it will now rotate freely, you have extra residual pressure in the line going to that caliper.

if it still does not want to rotate freely, your caliper is sticking.

Restoration / Re: Where to by correct master cylinder?
« on: November 06, 2016, 03:41:12 PM »
Many "rebuilt" master cylinders these days will be newer service replacements without bleeder screws.  Still worth a look.

If you buy a correctly dated and cast number core and restore it you might save a little money but not a bunch. They need to be sleeved and have new parts installed.  Some internal parts do not come in the kit and are not available anywhere else, and you will need those so....

Compare finding and buying a correct casting number, date coded core then having it sleeved.  Add the cost for buying a non-correct "rebuilt" unit at the parts store and scavenging the internals to use in your re-sleeved core.  Maybe doing it yourself is not so cheap in the end?

My take on it - if you still have the correct core - do it yourself.  If not, it will be expensive no matter which way you go.


1969 - Orphans / Re: 69 DZ 302 on CR
« on: November 04, 2016, 01:15:10 PM »
Not very authentic looking.  Too much wrong to be right ;~D

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