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Messages - Stingr69

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Decoding/Numbers / Re: Original X33 trimtag?
« on: August 26, 2017, 12:48:56 PM »
Auction has ended.  Might have sold outside Ebay?  Maybe no interest.  Asking a lot of money for a core.

Decoding/Numbers / Re: 9078 Booster
« on: August 26, 2017, 12:44:16 PM »
I used Apple to sleeve my original master cylinder and would not hesitate to use them again.

Steve did my booster and Master Cylinder cover.  Nice work.

Decoding/Numbers / Re: Camshaft 3959180
« on: July 26, 2017, 01:52:53 PM »
The one digit different number is for the assembly. The cam drive gear pin was installed to finish it as an assembly.

General Discussion / Re: 1969 Camaro Over Heating issue
« on: July 09, 2017, 02:13:07 PM »
water pump impeller fell off?  you need to verify water flow. cold start car and leave cap off radiator.  watch for flow.  feel hoses to see if you have one hotter than the other.

Maintenance / Re: Vapor lock?
« on: July 06, 2017, 01:42:02 PM »
You can measure the circumference around the outside of the balancer with a cloth measuring tape.  Divide the circumference measurement by 10 and use that measurement to place a new sharpie mark on your balancer.  It will be that distance, clockwise to the right from the timing slot mark on the balancer. The new sharpie mark is now at 36 degrees before top dead center.  You can disconnect/plug the vacuum advance, hook up your timing light, rev the engine and watch for the timing to stop advancing.  when reving the engine does not advance the timing any more, you are at full advance.  You are shooting for lining up the new sharpie mark on the balancer and the zero on the timing tab while running the timing light. Once you have that reved up and lined up, you lock down the distrbutor hold down.  36 degrees is full centrifugal advance. Hook the vacuum advance back up and see how it drives.  No special timing light required. 

General Discussion / Re: Can someone identify this please?
« on: June 28, 2017, 01:25:10 PM »
might be for the rear brakes where the springs anchor?  looks somewhat familliar. might not be for Camaro?

Maintenance / Re: Vapor lock?
« on: June 26, 2017, 06:18:38 PM »
I would plug that exhaust gas passage on the non-choke coil side of the intake manifold. Heat is flowing thru there.

Maintenance / Re: Vapor lock?
« on: June 26, 2017, 12:44:14 PM »
Carb is hot.  Not the fuel line.  You are cooking the carb.

Maintenance / Re: 68 Muncie talishaft
« on: May 29, 2017, 01:44:14 PM »
The only way to mix-match this setup is to use:

'69 and up "bolt-on" style shift shafts.
'69 and up "bolt-on" style shift shaft levers
linkage for a '69
'69 GM shifter mounting bracket OR a Hurst 2-piece '69 only specific mounting bracket.
'69 Camaro/Firebird specific shifter

Tail housing is fine, transmission case is fine.

Console will fit and install as original.


The only other option is to install the complete '68 Hurst aftermarket assembly. It will still work well. MUCH better than the original GM Muncie shifter. 

Been there, done that, t-shirt does not fit anymore.  ;)

Maintenance / Re: 68 Muncie talishaft
« on: May 29, 2017, 01:12:30 AM »

'69 Muncie was a 1 year only setup. '70 and up had a completely different 3-hole tailshaft bolting pattern. '68 and older Muncies had the same tailshaft housing but used a nut to retain the shift shaft levers so they got totally different install kits designed for the nut retained shifter shaft levers.
Aftermarket Hurst shifter install kits from back in the day designed for '69 Camaros re-used the original GM factory shifter mounting plate on the 5 hole tailshaft housing.  That tailshaft housing was common to Muncies '69 and earlier BUT the shift shaft levers on the side cover were different on 68 and older trannys and use a nut to attach levers to the shift shafts.  '69 was the first year to use a bolt to attach the shift shaft levers.  The '69 and up bolt on shifter shaft levers do not interchange with the older '68 style trannys.

Most other applications used the Hurst provided "universal" shifter mounting plate.
'68 Camaro was a different install kit and had different transmission levers designed for "bolt on" shift shafts.

At some point later, Hurst started providing a 2-piece mounting plate with the '69 Camaro shifter install kits. No need to source an original GM part.

Your bracket does not look to be installed right. 

Maintenance / Re: 69 Camaro Clutch Cross Shaft
« on: May 25, 2017, 01:54:29 PM »
Its tight.  I do not recall much pain but I like to use the ratcheting box wrench.

Originality / Re: Numbers Matching or Not?
« on: May 09, 2017, 12:51:40 PM »
Easy - not matching numbers rear axle. If it failed and was replaced, it isn't original.  Warranty replacements are not matching numbers.

Radio is aftermarket. Put in before or after delivery it is not "correct" assembly line equipment. Corvette judging they refer to "normative practice" where incorrect items loose points even if they were on there from the day it left the factory.

Put in a radio delete faceplate and it would be correct.

Mild Modifications / Re: Exhaust
« on: May 05, 2017, 01:03:10 PM »
I do not believe you will get any significant measurable increase in performance from switching the 2011 mufflers from stock.  You will change the sound but might actually loose some power.  These 5th gen Camaro exhausts were heavily engineered for sound and low restriction.  The "mufflers" are like empty metal suitcases inside.

Removing the cats might help power if you take them off.  Car will smell worse but maybe that is not an issue for you?

2010 Camaro SS 6speed, Supercharged, LS-9 cam, custom tune, stock exhaust.

Garage Talk / Re: Muncie side cover removal in car?
« on: April 21, 2017, 04:07:14 PM »
You can add a thin o-ring behind the shaft seal to assist in sealing.  Be sure to use sealer on the seal periphery. You tap the seal in just far enough to where the shaft is hard to turn because it compresses the oring.  The oring will bind the shaft a bit but once lube hits it and it breaks in, it will seal better


Suggestion - Chop up your spare shifter, fab and MIG tack weld yourself to be sure its right where you want it - then take it to a pro welder to finish it.

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