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104518 Posts in 12235 Topics by 4716 Members
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61  Camaro Research Group Discussion / Originality / Re: Amazing 69 Z/28 Survivor on: August 27, 2014, 10:06:25 PM
Chick, Thank you for those new photo's.  The carb studs were an item that I've been wanting to compare from this car.  The studs with the undercut at the top seem to be original across the board and very very hard to find.  Some of the more advanced vendors do not have these studs.  I have these same studs in my intake, and know of a few more cars that have them, but many have the replacement type.  I was wondering how rare these studs actually are, or not.


Bryan,  your comment would be more meaningful if you could post a comparison pix between the original 'undercut' top type of stud, along with the reproduction you are referring to..  that would show the difference(s)...?
62  Camaro Research Group Discussion / Originality / Re: Paint on steering components on: August 26, 2014, 10:22:52 PM
69 sub frames had a PN and date stamped in yellow on the outside of the left hand rail, under where the bumper bracket mounts....  Myself and others have posted pix of that.
63  Camaro Research Group Discussion / Restoration / Re: Where to cut roof off 69 coupe on: August 26, 2014, 10:18:38 PM
if you can't do the work yourself, I'm quite confident that to buy the parts, then pay someone 'local' to install them correctly will cost you more than the cost of the entire repro body. 
64  Camaro Research Group Discussion / General Discussion / Re: Found Some More Pics of the Green L78 on: August 25, 2014, 01:28:08 PM
Bet the dealer in Painsville was Earl Evans....They ran a 69 Copo Camaro raced by Dale Evans. It was raced under the name Steppenwolf. I have a slew of pics I can post if interested...

There was a great little Italian restaurant in Painesville...  in an old white frame house across from the closed train station.. Smiley
The last time I was in Willoughby, they had a weekly Cruise in at the local McDonalds...   mostly mid-sixties chevys with hydraulics..  Smiley
65  Model Specific Discussions / Trans-Am Camaros / Re: Breaking-in of Race engines? on: August 25, 2014, 01:19:54 PM
No, I don't recall that if I ever knew it.   He built his engines 'conservatively', since he was an independent and had to fund his own car (with some assistance from local businesses here).   When he was running IMSA GT in the mid70's, he had both a BB (427) and the 302 which he switched depending on the track he was running, and I recall at one time he switched in the 427 from his tow vehicle when he broke the one in the car.. Smiley 
66  Model Specific Discussions / Trans-Am Camaros / Re: Breaking-in of Race engines? on: August 25, 2014, 06:16:49 AM
This isn't specific to 'race engines' but it should be applicable as it's based on information I gleaned from a TransAm independent racer long ago.  I'm very interested if any other old racers follow any procedures drastically different than this...
- - -
I've rebuilt a number of engines over the last 40-45 years of my life, and based on that history, I have some opinions myself, although I consider myself still open minded to a different view as long as it's supported by some theory, logic, or fact..   My history includes:

o  assisting friends, as a 'helper', rebuild several engines in my early 20's, ranging from VW 4 bangers to 426 hemis, but with concentration on erly small block chevys.
o  When in engineering school in the early 70's, I met a Trans-AM, IMSA GT car owner, builder, driver (Robert A Christiansen) when he was asked to give a talk on 'engineering materials used in auto racing.   As a result of that, I ended up hanging around his shop, helping him on weekends and evenings, and generally trying to learn as much as I could from him, as he was one of the most 'practical mechanical engineers' I'd ever known, even to today.   He was an IBM engineer/manager at that time; a part-time racer, and ultimately retired from IBM.
o  in 1974 I bought a '68 Z28.. worked on it and drove it daily until '76 when I traded it for my present 69 Z28, which needed an engine rebuild, so naturally I asked Robert (Bob) for assistance.   He let me rebuild the engine in his shop; he told me what to purchase, he went to the machine shop with me and provided guidance to the machinist, but did not do any of the hands on work, instead he told me at each step what I needed to be doing and why..  so that experience formed the basis for most of my opinions on engine rebuilding.   I've rebuilt several (10 to 12 small blocks, and 1 BB 454) for friends since then, and a few of my own all using what I learned from that experience with Bob.

Things I learned from him were:
1.  For 'racing' build your engine on the 'loose' end of the tolerances ie. piston to wall and bearing clearances; basically it gives your engine a head start on the break in and reduces internal friction, and you're not looking for 100,000 miles of wear out of such an engine.
2.  Ensure that the oil returns are opened up; small block chevy oil returns typically have casting flash which restricts oil return.   Grind all those out in the ends of the heads and the lifter galley after tear down.
3.  CLEAN CLEAN CLEAN.   Hot tank is not enough.  You'll be amazed the first time you get an engine block back from the hot tank if you use a hot water pressure blaster to blast out all the water jackets..  you'll see metal chunks, rocks, etc..  come out!   USe hot water, detergent, and properly sized engine brushes to clean all surfaces of the engine block.   Obviously you should chase all the bolt hole threads before cleaning also.   After the cleaning and drying, coat the cylinder walls and lifter holes with oil or grease to protect against corrosion, and PAINT all the cast surfaces in the lifter galley, under the timing cover, etc..   in order to capture/hold any residual grit/sand/etc from the factory casting process.   I've always used Rustoleum (qt can will do many engines).  I use black or red so that any bearing material will show up 'silvery' against those colors.
4.  During assembly, liberal use of Molybdenum Disulfide on all 'metal to metal' friction surfaces such as lifters to cam, rocker balls/rockers, etc..  ie. high load, high speed, steel on steel surfaces (not bearings).  I also disassemble the oil pump, and polish all the frictional surfaces on the moving parts, and also use the moly on reassembly.  Lock tite or safety wire the fasteners; braize the pickup tube in the pump cover plate, after setting proper gap to the pan.
5.  Use plastigage on all the bearings with one drop of oil to hold it in place, torque down, disassemble and record each value.  Ensure consistency in the values and measures you get across all the same type bearings.
6.  Pre-adjust valves by your favorite technique.   IT should be good thru the initial startup period.  
7.  Before initial startup, ensure a KNOWN GOOD distributor and carburetor are used - you don't want a malfunctioning, mal adjusted distributor or carb during first fire up or break in.   you have to ensure proper timing and fuel mix during this time.   Also before startup, use an external device to pump oil to all the bearings, and after this, I ilke to actually spin the motor a few times with the starter (NO plugs/fire) to circulate the oil and get pressure up.   Verify proper oil levels and water levels (hopefully you're using a known good water pump as well).   Ensure that you have a working oil pressure and water temp gauge before startup and AND NO LEAKS.

Prior to start up, clean/gap and install plugs.   Set initial timing so the engine will start immediately (this is easy to do - ask if you don't know how).
Prepare to monitor the engine speed, oil pressure, water temp during the initial 30 min run.   Don't do this in a closed up shop...  Smiley   best is outside, because most of us don't have exhaust hookups to the outside.   Start the engine and run it for 30 min at 3000 rpm..  don't let it die..  if it's trying to, then increase rpm.    if you are using a known good distributor and carburetor, you should not have to be doing any significant adjustments during this time, but if everything looks/runs good, and you want to fine tune the timing or carb then do so, but don't neglect the monitoring of the water temp and oil pressure.

After the initial run it, take the car out and put some load on the engine.   I've always followed the 'break it in like you are going to run it' rule.. Smiley
When I took the '69 Z28 out back in '76, Bob went with me.. and I was 'babying it' ..   he said RUN IT!@!   so I did.. Smiley  up to 7000 or so but not in a high gear.   Load increases as the gear increases, so running your engine in low or second is not as heavy a load at a given rpm as it would be in a higher gear.   Main thing during the break in period to to not run it as a constant speed or load.  Vary the load and rpm during the first 500-1000 miles.    Change the oil and drive it... Smiley
67  Camaro Research Group Discussion / General Discussion / Re: My New '68 Camaro Z/28 Butternut Yellow on: August 22, 2014, 01:44:12 PM
...  in a previous post....   it was written....

"This may involve bumping timing tab side to side with a small Ford tool (hammer)..."..

Bentley..  you are cracking me up!!         Smiley
68  Camaro Research Group Discussion / Originality / Re: What's the correct Alternator bracket for a 69 Z/28 on: August 21, 2014, 09:23:01 PM
I am certainly not positive about this, but since automatic cars did not require SMOG, and straight shifts did, the different brackets might have been to compensate for the thickness of the smog bracket, that I believe used the same fastener (if present)??   Is this why some cars have to have a 'spacer washer' depending on their configuration??
69  Camaro Research Group Discussion / Originality / Re: 69 04D 14x7 rally wheel trim ring & center caps on: August 21, 2014, 10:54:09 AM
Are they 14x7 YJ Coded Rims? If they are the four outer clips are incorrect.

Why do you think that?  and what do you think is correct?
70  Camaro Research Group Discussion / Decoding/Numbers / Re: Broadcast sheets, VIN sequence and build dates on: August 18, 2014, 11:35:49 AM
I also think what Jerry is suggesting would be a good idea in this case...
71  Camaro Research Group Discussion / General Discussion / Re: custom striped Z I saw this weekend on: August 18, 2014, 11:22:58 AM
'lace stripes'? *G*    I haven't seen those in awhile.      Smiley
72  Camaro Research Group Discussion / Originality / Re: front coil springs for L-89 with alum heads on: August 18, 2014, 11:14:40 AM
.. and Coil Spring Specialties is a company that will wind springs to your specifications that some of us have used...  Smiley
73  Camaro Research Group Discussion / Originality / Re: front coil springs for L-89 with alum heads on: August 17, 2014, 09:44:53 PM
As jano stated earlier, a big block with aluminum heads weighs very close to the same as an iron head small block of the same era, but this is not enough to choose the proper coil springs.   In the 'service manual' (I think?) is a table that shows that the actual spring depends on many variables, that includes not only the engine used, but also other options which add (or reduce) weight of the car on the front end.   Check that table...  Use the Z28 column, and add/subtract as the table says for the options your car has..  that should get you close... to the correct spring as would have been used by the factory.

The spring rate charts are also provided via CRG:

74  Camaro Research Group Discussion / Decoding/Numbers / Re: Research history of 67 camaro on: August 16, 2014, 11:25:09 AM
if you aren't sure of your knowledge, I'd suggest you consider purchase of:
1)  A completely original unrestored car; these are the most 'honest' cars because you can 'see' all the problems and history ..
2)  If you want a restored car, then choose a restorer you are confident in, and ask him/her for advice, or to point you to a car that they know to be a good one.   Get involved in a local car club.. listen and learn for awhile until you know the people, then ask the right ones for advice or guidance on finding a good car.   

There are MANY cars which are 'called' restored or restified or rebuilt, but many are done by people with perhaps even less knowledge than you, and their problems might be hidden under 'new paint'.. etc.. and can be difficult to ascertain on purchase.  Those kinds of cars are the ones I'd be most cautious about..  Read the thread on the '69 purchased by KERR... and you'll get an idea of what I'm talking about..

75  Camaro Research Group Discussion / Decoding/Numbers / Re: 67 DG rallys on: August 16, 2014, 11:18:47 AM
I believe JohnZ is thinking of "DF" rally wheels.


OR..     67 Corvette 15x6 Rallyes..  which had the DC code...  ?   Smiley
.. and if I'm recalling correctly, JohnZ once owned a nice '67 Corvette coupe with rallyes..  Smiley
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