He (Bob) may not be aware that the Camaro Nationals, that was held at Carlisle in conjunction wthi the GM Nationals up until a couple years ago, is NOW held at Frederick, MD on the same weekend; last time I went to the joint show, there were a ton more Camaros than all others combined (at least that's the way it seemed)...  I would think there would be a lot more Camaros at Frederick than at Carlisle given the situation!

so Gardner offers all those options??? depending on when your car was made?

Yes these parts would be the best, but finding 46 year old parts such as exhaust system parts in excellent original condition is near impossible.  Also the fact that some of the pieces on original exh systems were welded in place.  Would be hard to do on a finished car? 

The Gardner systems are far beyond anything else on the market.  I have installed dozens and never an issue.  And, no I don't get paid for saying this.  They just make quality parts.

I sold an NOS chambered system a few months ago, that I purchased in the mid 70's from GM, I'm sure I wasn't the only person who bought one and put it up.   At the same time I purchased the chambered system for 'someday use', I also bought the standard exhaust system and put it on my car, cutting the exhaust pipe for installation of headers.  That system is still very solid and good, but to reinstall my manifolds, I need new exhaust pipes.  Can anyone recommend as a source for 'most original' front exhaust pipes?

I would *THINK* in any judging for originality, that original GM parts would score considerably higher than ANY replacement/reproduction part, such as Gardners....

'tree huggers' don't PASS the laws.. our government does, and WE let them.   If we make as much noise as the few tree huggers, we can keep this crap to a minimum... Most of the environmental laws and regs are born in ignorance.... and allowed to exist due to apathy.

they would build their customer whatever the customer wanted... if it could be bolted or sprayed on *S*

I still have some old car mags from '68 or so, describing/testing the Baldwin Motion Camaro, I still remember reading their 0-60 times and being disbelieving..

well.. no one is perfect..   but some imperfections are just more easily seen...

The backdrop of some of the photos appeared to be taken in 'Art's Corvette World' in Bowling Green, KY.. (right in front of the NCM), although the location for the seller appeared to be in Canada...?

That's  a factory balancer...  '67 or '68?

For those of us who don't know about a 'Norwood Reunion', can you elaborate?   My '69 hugger orange/black Z28/RS also has the original 'Fisher' paint, although some parts of the Norwood Assembly Paint (front clip) have been resprayed.

[(Fits 69 Camaro Z28)]

This info is as current as you can get:  With my tongue tucked firmly in my cheek, I just counted all ebay postings for sale, which have the following in their description:

(Fits 69 Camaro Z28)

after performing ultra precise calculation, it's determined that 92.68% of all ebay postings will *fit* your 69 Z28.... 

Photoshop or any similar image editing program should let you import any photo of a Camaro and then do all the 'color change' and scheme things you want to see....

Re your colors:  Silver and gray....   Have you considered a light silver main paint, fading to the darker color below the belt like break (as foose does a lot).. and then possibly adding the dark charcoal stripes in the light silver above?   The stripes could be the Z stripes, SS stripes, or even the '70 Boss stripe' approach...

It *appears* the same as the fan in my original 837 alternator in the photo...

In 1977 model year, Chevrolet still used lacquer; by 1981 my, they'd switched to enamels ( I suspect? the Corvette was the last model to change, which happened June of 1981 when Corvette production was moved to Bowling Green from St Louis)....  that's as close as I can narrow it down to...

I always deburr casting flash in the drainbacks and paint the interior cast surfaces...

If you clean your block well, you can use 'rustoleum' (buy a quart size can and brush it on)..  I like black, as it will show 'silvery' on disassembly if there's every been metal in the oil...

Your other pulleys (alternator, WP, smog) should line up with the outermost crank groove (see John Z's post), so actually your crank pulley is too far away from your engine for that to happen... and *the crank pulley* needs to go back towards the engine (per the photos)..  Only your PS pulley should line up with the groove closest to the engine.   

I'd suggest making sure your outer groove of the crank pulley first lines up with the water pump pulley, and then make everything else lines up appropriately after that.