Messages

4726

Restoration / Re: Converting 69 Camaro 3 speed auto on the tree to 4 speed Questions

« on: July 31, 2013, 03:44:40 AM »

with an auto column shift, it may also have had a 'bench seat'??  Did those items get used together?   Would a floor shift auto work with a bench seat?

4727

Decoding/Numbers / Re: 67 Camaro Engine Identification

« on: July 30, 2013, 05:06:03 PM »

Yes, John, kinda sorta..  *L*...

'The 'rotating assembly' rotates in one direction, but the TORQUE on the engine itself is actually applied in the opposite direction when there is a load; that's why the engine TRIES to rotate in the clockwise direction (as viewed from the drivers seat)...    it's all in the terminology..

and Ed's further explanation clarified that.

Gary

4728

Decoding/Numbers / Re: 67 Camaro Engine Identification

« on: July 29, 2013, 04:58:51 PM »

Yes, Ed got turned around in his drivers seat, as this part of his post is incorrect..   
"Since the engine rotates clockwise (as seen from the front of the car (or counter-clockwise as seen from the drivers seat), "..   
but the remainder of his post, and the gist of his response, was correct.. 

4729

Originality / Re: 1969 Z/28 original engine brackets and components

« on: July 29, 2013, 04:51:40 PM »

I'm new to the CRG forum and have been soaking up all the restoration information that I can find.  I have a request for some of you 69 Z/28 owners.  PLEASE post some pictures of original plug wire stands, the skinny one on the RH side and the wider one on the LH side of the intake.  The brake hose bracket, that's beside the larger wire stand on the LH side.  I'm after the correct bend and shape and the proper markings or stamps that make them correct for a 69 Z/28.  From what I've read on the forum, my car, an 05A build date, would be too early for a fuel line bracket, Is this correct?  Is their any markings or stamps, codes, etc. that would identify an original 302 flat bottom cowl induction air cleaner?  I'm afraid my engine was a victum of the chrome monster, and that monster ate my original brackets, and air cleaner!!!  Thanks for any help!

Hello Bryan
Welcome to CRG, and it's good to know you're getting back into the Camaro restoration game...
I'll look for you Saturday in Athens...

4730

Restoration / Re: Fan Shroud

« on: July 28, 2013, 05:18:28 PM »

a chemical that doesn't harm fiberglass or fiberglass bonding agent, might not be so harmless on a plastic or rubber part...  i'd be careful and do a test area before using it wholesale on non 'fiberglass, metal, or wood' materials.

4731

Originality / Re: Cable Motor Support

« on: July 28, 2013, 05:14:23 PM »

I've always wondered if that manner of engine restraint, could possibly cause issues with the control arm shaft.  Does anyone have any information of evidence as to that ever being the situation with any of the cars it was applied to?

4732

Originality / Re: Engine hook bolts on manifold

« on: July 28, 2013, 05:11:44 PM »

Here is a 69 Z28 project on Ebay. Notice the silver paint still left on the engine lift bracket. I can't figure out how to link just the pic.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/1969-camaro-z-28-Hugger-Orange-/330968144219?_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649&ss#v4-42

It appears someone may have purchased themselves a nice Z28... very little molestation to that one for 44 years, but the first thing I'd do is remove those ugly houndstooth floor mats..      Then i'd wash it good *G*

4733

General Discussion / Very original (unrestored) '69 X44 on ebay

« on: July 28, 2013, 04:32:05 PM »

If anyone is in the market for a nice 'mostly survivor' 69 Camaro, you should check out the ebay link below.   This is a Daytona yellow, black vinyl, 307, AC, with a few non-original item, car.. even has the original blue mfg sticker (10/69)..  57K miles...   appears to be a good value even at the buy it now price.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/1969-Camaro-X44-307-Daytona-Yellow-57000-original-miles-mint-body-must-see-/121150481356?ViewItem=&ssPageName=ADME:B:SS:US:1123&item=121150481356&forcev4exp=true#v4-43

4734

General Discussion / Re: fuse block and big firewall connector

« on: July 26, 2013, 06:41:24 PM »

hi Rick,

My car with engine in it sat for between 5-10 yrs before I removed and disassembled the engine (I removed it in order to check the VIN stamp on the block - which had bothered me for years because it had no vin on the machined block surface).   After I found the VIN stamping, I went ahead and disassembled the block (for one day rebuilding).  I still haven't decided the smartest way to rebuild the 302 engine and it's still apart.   I have a '70 LT1 engine which I rebuilt which has sat in the car for years without it's being started either.    2 or 3 yrs ago, I began cleaning up the car, disassembling where I needed to in order to rebuild/check/clean the parts and then reinstalling.  I'm down to the front clip parts (it's an RS which is a monster in itself).. and the dash components.   At this point, I'm not sure if I'll leave the 350 in it for checking everything initially, or if I will rebuild the 302 to stock specs (I had 12:1 pistons in it from the '70's).

Re your engine, if it was running when it was parked and it's been parked in a garage, then I'd think you aren't too bad off and your engine will be fairly easy to get running again.   I'd suggest the following:
1) your carburetor is going to need a cleaning and kit due to dried out fuel and gaskets.
2) your fuel tank should be drained, cleaned, checked for leaks along with your fuel lines.
3) pull your plugs and squirt some thin oil or auto trans fluid in the cylinder; I'd do this a few times over a few weeks period before I tried to start the engine.
4) pull the valve covers, squirt oil in the rockers/balls area and on/around the pushrods/lifters if you can get oil to them.  check lash if you need to do so at this time.   reinstall valve covers.
5) with the ignition coil disconnected, plugs still out, make sure your battery is charged and do some short spins of the starter motor.  Don't spin it too long each time, rest/cool it, but continue doing that until you can see the oil pressure gauge begin to register. I would disconnect the fuel line from the fuel pump to the carb during these spins; you can put a short rubber hose to the fuel pump outlet and drop it into a gas container which will allow you to purge any old gas our of the pump, and verify the pump is pumping.
6) Check your cooling system, verify your water pump is working while you're spinning the motor, then drain the cooling system and fill with fresh water and a little coolant.

At this point, with your carb rebuilt, your gas tank cleaned and with fresh prem fuel in the tank, plugs cleaned and reinstalled, you could try starting the engine.  Note:  if you need to check timing, you can verify static timing prior to starting the engine - it's simple to do.

Assuming the engine starts and runs OK, good oil pressure, and maintaining coolant temp (make sure it doesn't run hot for any reason), let it run til it reaches normal temp, then you could cut it off and drain the oil while hot, and refill with good fresh oil.

Note:  Do not drive the car before you check the brakes and any other system you have reason to suspect..  I try to make sure that a car will STOP, before verifying it will drive..

Gary

4735

Maintenance / Re: Vacuum advance

« on: July 26, 2013, 02:43:08 PM »

Isn't the B28 the same one as for the Z28?    Does the 396/375hp  engine use the same vacuum advance part?

4736

General Discussion / Re: fuse block and big firewall connector

« on: July 26, 2013, 02:04:00 PM »

Yes, it came apart with some gentle prying..     I was hesitant to pry before for fear that screw wasn't the only retainer..  I have cleaned it with electrical terminal cleaner, and will reinstall soon, after I do a couple of small electrical repairs on the harness (reinstall a couple of electrical connectors on the ends that were about to come loose). 
PS.  I agree with your other comments as well, except for why I've waited so long to get 'er going again, but I've got too many cars which distract me at times..

4737

Maintenance / Re: Vacuum advance

« on: July 26, 2013, 01:32:29 PM »

I switched my vacuum advance from ported to manifold vacuum on my 396/375hp and boy what a difference.My car always ran fine but now it runs even better.I also noticed a drop in engine temperature at idle.Any time my car idled for long periods or I got stuck in traffic I would see the temp gauge slowly go up.I had it running for a 1/2 hour and the hottest it got was 197 degrees.The only problem I have is I cannot find the correct vacuum advance.I am running 12" hg at idle and my advance starts to move at 8"hg and stops at 15"hg.So my idle is a little unstable.All the part numbers listed in the forum for the vacuum advance I need are discontinued.Car Quest told me the part number is good but they are not sure they can get it.Paragon Corvette has an aftermarket vacuum advance with the correct GM part number that I need but they said they do not know if it is the right 4"hg start to 8"hg end that it is supposed to be. I don't want to spend 45.00 and it is the wrong one.Has JohnZ  ever dealt with Paragon Corvette?They have 6 different advances listed with different part numbers.I just want to know if all the advance units are the same vacuum pull but have different numbers stamped.IN NCRS judging I guess they check numbers like that.Someone who has a NCRS corvette is probably more interested in the correct numbers than drivability.

if you talk to the right person at Paragon, I'd bet they can answer your question; they have been the BEST Corvette supplier for a long while...

4738

Maintenance / Re: 1969 Z/28 DZ 302 overbore to .040? Piston Source?

« on: July 24, 2013, 03:11:37 PM »

You can always 'sleeve' it back to std..   it's expensive, but some racers used to do that with their race engines...

4739

Originality / Re: Looking for correct bolts

« on: July 23, 2013, 09:07:59 PM »

Scott,

The AIM should reference the bolts by gm PN, and you might be able to cross reference them thru the AMK catalog.  I'm including a couple of photos of my original fasteners for your reference.  My car is an 09C, and may have had different head markings / supplier than for your earlier car.  These are the fasteners for the rear most hangars, which hold the tail pipe to the frame rail.  The self tapping screws that attach the hangar to the frame rail are approx. 1/2" long and have an 'E' on the head.

4740

Maintenance / Re: 1969 Z/28 DZ 302 overbore to .040? Piston Source?

« on: July 23, 2013, 02:39:37 PM »

Forged True was a very expensive piston in the late sixties, and the set of 30 over piston in my '69 302, actually came from a '67 302 that I had, which had been ran in a '67 Z28, which ran 11.6 in the old 'stock' class (prior to '71), which was right at or under the national record for the class at that time.  The only mods allowed were headers and 7" slicks.  mine were originally cut for dykes rings, but when I put them in my '69 302, I had them grooved for standard 1/16" compression ring, although that groove is higher on the piston than is typical.   It was blueprinted for the maximum allowable compression in the '67 engine, and was higher than 'stock' in my '69 motor, which is the primary reason I parked the car in my garage in 1980, due to the difficulty in getting suitable octane fuel.