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Messages - hgger69

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31
Mild Modifications / Re: The Hugger goes ZL-1....
« on: February 01, 2017, 08:08:51 PM »
Looking good, but where is the Manual transmission behind it?

Thanx, Bullit! Isn't that a nick for a Mustang btw?  ;D
Nope, gonna keep tha automatic! Just love crus'n...

32
Mild Modifications / Re: The Hugger goes ZL-1....
« on: February 01, 2017, 11:25:40 AM »
After some holidays, fireworks, and other miscellaneous stuff we actually did some work progress on The Hugger!
The first major step of the heart transplant is done!
 
I started with swapping the cars place in my garage so the Hugger got more space around it for easier access....

 
I did some hours for preparation the day before D-day. Marking cables, emptying the cooling system and taking everything off that shouldnt go with the 355. Ill keep the tranny in the car and later bolt it to the ZL-1.

 
The Hedmann headers went out together with radiator, generator and distributor....

 
Off with the cowl hood with help from two Camaro-friends. They are really experienced with this kind of work so Im very happy for the assistance, cause Im newbie when it comes to taking motors out from a car. Very educational.

 

 
The motor is out of the car for the first time since it came to Sweden in 2005.
A really reliable and stabile motor lift is a bless this times. Professional tools always make work easier!.

 
The 355 is already sold and will find its place under the very red hood of a 1968 SS/RS Camaro.
 
We then pushed the Camaro sideways using simple tire skates and two trolley jacks, went very easy and smooth!.
Now its time for The Hugger to lokka back on its time as a teenager cause its soon going to be a real man!

 
An empty gap soon to be filled with a new ZL-1! But in the mean time its an easy access for work.

 
...to be continued!

33
General Discussion / Re: Cowl Plenum VS. Cowl Induction Air Cleaner Systems
« on: December 30, 2016, 09:10:25 AM »
My 70 formula is a ram air car, however it grabs air front and center just over the bumper of the car.  Said to be one of the more effective setups from the muscle car era, but seldom seen today (293 made in 1970)  On a setup that grabs fresh air at the windshield, it might work, but I'm sure it won't be as effective as the design on my Pontiac.  I'm going to test the theory on my Z though, at the track with the ZL2 setup and without.  I'm predicting I won't see the differences I see with my Pontiac.  Especially since the Z is such a small engine anyway.

That's interesting cause I always read that's it the complete opposite due to the stagnation pressure that you get when having a scoop pointing towards the front...unless you have something that sucks air in like a blower or turbo!? Found this interesting regarding this issue:

The basic aerodynamics is that you cannot increase air pressure above static air pressure until you start to approach compressible fluid flow - near the speed of sound.

A "Ram Air" scoop (or any other scoop) can increase the volume of the air flow if it is otherwise restricted, but it cannot increase air pressure to your engine, or other wise provide a "supercharging" effect.


Some basics:

Static (non-moving) air pressure at seal level under standard atmospheric conditions (a "standardized" temperature and humidity) is about 14.7 PSI. Without otherwise compressing air, that's the most you can get. Period. As air moves over a surface, it often speeds up - an example is an airfoil (wing) of an airplane, or more simply, your car. Ignoring altitude, temperature and humidity, typically, moving air is of lower pressure than 14.7 PSI. Non-moving (static) air can be no higher than 14.7.

As air moves over a surface, it creates a boundary layer. The air on the surface is at zero velocity relative to the surface (or your car for instance). The air some (very) small distance above the surface is moving rapidly relative to the surface of your car (i.e. to you the air feels that it is moving at 70 MPH when you are driving at 70 MPH). This air is lower than 14.7 PSI, relative to your car, because it is moving (to get out of the way of your car). The air flow between the top and the bottom of the boundary layer is moving at speeds in between the two, proportional to their distance from the surface...

Some areas of your car have relatively static non-moving air - the tip of your bumper for instance. Other parts of your car have rapidly moving air (the top of your hood, the sides of the door, etc.), that are at a relatively low pressure (ever open the side window a bit while driving fast and feel the air rushing out of the car at the opening? It's the "high pressure" air rushing into the "low pressure" air outside of the car.

Sticking a scoop or "Ram Air" intake on a car cannot provide more than static air pressure. Air entering the scoop, at best, can "slow down" to low velocity and relatively static air pressure, but that's it. The scoop can increase the volume of air that can be "sucked" into the engine, but it can't increase the pressure unless you are approaching the speed of sound - and I doubt that many of us have to worry about that. If the car has a very restrictive air source, the intake can be "starved" for air, and not getting enough. Adding a scoop to provide more available air can help things, but so would putting a bigger less restrictive air box on the end of the intake (that what the cone filters are supposed to be doing). In either case, 14.7 PSI is the maximum air pressure that is available. Period.

Besides the front of the bumper, a very good source of static (relatively high) air pressure is the base of the windshield. As air flows over the hood of your car, the air "smoothes" itself out, and leaves an area at the base of the windshield that is relatively static - non-moving. If you arms are long enough (and the road empty enough), try an experiment. Reach your hand around the side (or over the top) of the windshield while traveling at say 60 MPH. As you reach around the windshield, you will feel a strong "wind". But as you get your hand to the area near where the wipers park, it will be relatively calm. This is a "high" pressure zone. It's where most every car made has the intake for the cars ventilation system - "high" pressure, slow moving air that can pass thru to the cars interior and out the windows/vents. This also makes a good place to suck in the air for the engine's intake. Some will remember back in the early '70s when Chevy used to sell cars with "Cowl Induction" - it was a backwards facing scoop on the hood that pulled "high" pressure air from the base of the windshield. They worked quite well. Some company (I don't remember which) sells a set up that feeds air from the Miata cowl to the air box. It should also work well, but it still can only produce 14.7 PSI. And the area under the hood near the air box on a Miata is most likely as close to 14.7 PSI as possible.

However, the real advantage of the Cowl Induction, Ram Air, or just a plain air scoop, is that it feeds cooler air to the engine. The air box in a Miata pulls air from under the hood that has been warmed - heated by the radiator, and the exhaust - and warm air is not as dense as cold air. With cold air, more actual air gets into the cylinders, which in turn makes more power. Cold air is good. My old Honda used to pull air from behind the head light. My '96 Ford Ranger pulls air from in front of the right front wheel liner, behind the head lights - nice cool air in both cases, and protected from road debris and water...

If a Ram Air, Scoop, or cowl induction makes any more power for an engine, it is simply that it is allowing cooler air into the engine. Period. Or to be generous, it might be allowing a less restrictive air flow to get to the intake. But none of them can add more pressure above static pressure that is what's all around us.

Then there is subject of NACA Ducts ("scoops"). These are nothing new, and have been around for many, many years on aircraft (NACA was the predecessor to NASA). NACA ducts are designed/shaped such that they bleed off the boundary layer into the ducting. The air is diverted into the duct at relatively static pressures, and a new boundary layer forms on the rear of the duct. It allows air to be drawn in, without any noticeable increase in drag - that's why they are used on aircraft (and high end race cars). For most cars, they are just for looks...

Tim Mullen - Yea, I studied (and used) all this aerodynamics (subsonic and supersonic), fluid flow, heat transfer, etc....

34
General Discussion / Re: Cowl Plenum VS. Cowl Induction Air Cleaner Systems
« on: December 27, 2016, 09:14:57 AM »
You should never underestimate the coolness factor with a cowl plenum air system, and that adds a bunch of hp:s, guys!  8)

35
Mild Modifications / Re: The Hugger goes ZL-1....
« on: December 02, 2016, 03:34:52 PM »
Went to the Motorshop yesterday morning before work and now the balancing act is done! I took the chance to be part of the final adjustments and it was fun though Ive never seen this before.

First the pistons had to be fully weight adjusted within 1/10 gram. The pics below shows how different pistons had to be adjusted. Theese pistons from ICON were, according to Ulf at the shop, very good for being American parts! It differed 5 gram between all of the them in weight! Like Ulf said; - Its god raw material for balancing!




Also the rods had to be adjusted within 1/10 gram and here the weight difference were 7 gram. Here they are ready to me mounted with new bearings from Clevite.


Here is the crank, with damper and flexplate mounted, balancing bench. The SFI-approved flexplate from SCAT were internal balanced from factory and Ulf was very satisfied with it.


The figures were 0,0 on the flexplate side and 0,3 on the damper side....not ok at all said Ulf!


After finding the exact right spot he adjusted, read used a drilling tool, the damper a bit and the figure went down to 0,1 which Ulf thought was ok!


Now even Ulf was happy!


This was probably the last update for this year cause other projects is knocking on Ulfs door but well get back early next year for more updates!

We wish you all a Merry X-am and a Happy New Year!

 

36
Mild Modifications / Re: The Hugger goes ZL-1....
« on: December 02, 2016, 10:04:40 AM »
I really don't know, Steve but these are probably not from an original ZL-1! The dot rods were used in a range of high performance engines such as the L88, ZL1 and LS7.

Heres a close-up of the small end if this is what you looking for:



37
Mild Modifications / Re: The Hugger goes ZL-1....
« on: November 30, 2016, 09:22:04 AM »
Well, isn't much happening with the motor build right now but at least our motor shop has started to work with the balancing act! :)
Hes taking our ZL-1 between other projects and that's our deal....we rather go slow and correct then fast and wrong!  :P

Heres one of the pistons and pin on the scale::




The old dot rods has gotten a deep clean and new bushings. He also has reamed the new bushings to fit the new pins to get correct tolerances. These rods are the type with full-floating pins.




After this each rod will go through a balance act, so to speak:


Ill try to update here whenever new work is put in by the shop.....

38
Even with all the restoration mistakes, the one plus that I can take away from it, at least we are looking at an X77 that someone didn't add the exterior trim...
I agree with you here...but aren't the front and rear lights trim added? ;)

39
Originality / Re: Factory paint process on a X77 with 57 paint code?
« on: November 09, 2016, 09:17:59 PM »
Thank you William, for this excellent description, I really appreciate it!  :)
It's this kind of information that make this web site the best in the world regarding knowledge of our first gen Camaros!
All this information you just gave me should be added to the CRG article because it's hard to read that info out right now...

My friends X77D80 is also a 06A car so that would be perfect with that picture. I'll send you a PM.
Have you seen my question regarding the 723 interior painting? Maybe you have pictures of that to?

Wasn't  it hard to mask and paint the trunk lid whith the spoiler already mounted?

How exactly do you mean the rear striping are ment to be on the 69? Is it the 5/8" gap to the rear window you mean or do you refer to the spacing between the stripes....?

40
Restoration / Re: Correct interior painting for 723, Midnight green?
« on: November 09, 2016, 03:21:34 PM »
Try this link, then scroll down to the bottom of the page for the same image I posted above, the quality of this one may be a little better:
http://paintref.com/cgi-bin/chipdisplay.cgi?year=1969&manuf=GM&smodel=Camaro&info=yes&page=6

Thank you!
Now when its easier to read I started wondering what's correct again....according to this all interior should be both black and Midnight Green when you have interior code 723??...or is it just me?  :o
And what is black and what is green..... ::)

41
Originality / Re: Factory paint process on a X77 with 57 paint code?
« on: November 09, 2016, 08:34:36 AM »
Nobody?  ???

42
Restoration / Re: Correct interior painting for 723, Midnight green?
« on: November 08, 2016, 01:02:02 PM »
Wow, thanks for quick response, Tim!  :)
Do you have a larger pic of that color chart...it was a bit hard to read?!  :P

Great pics also, now I understand how we should paint!  :D

43
Originality / Factory paint process on a X77 with 57 paint code?
« on: November 08, 2016, 11:34:28 AM »
Hi,
I'm trying to help a friend with the restoration of his X77D80 car with 57/57 paint and I now I'm trying to figure out the paint process here....I've read the article here at CRG, http://www.camaros.org/assemblyprocess.shtml, but I must have this established before we send the car for the repaint:

Is this the correct step for a X77 paint job?

1. The 57-code main paint is sprayed as described from the factory.
2. The firewall is then blacked-out.
3. The unmasked cowl area under the cowl vent panel and the masked panel itself is painted white (Dover white 50?). In this process the firewall will get overspray from the white?
4. The hood and body is masked for stripes and sprayed white.
6. The trunk is then painted with spatter paint etc
5. The spoiler and the deck lid is masked for the stripes separately, painted and then mounted together? How far under the spoiler is the trunk lid then painted?

What's the RAL/NCS code for the black firewall paint?

Here are some extracts from the article:
Color System: The bodies were sequenced to "batch-paint" by color as much as the build schedule allowed, to minimize the waste of thinner required to clear paint guns between colors. The interior was masked off, the body exterior was tacked-off, and it then entered the main color booth, where it got three coats of acrylic lacquer, sprayed automatically with vertical and horizontal reciprocating spray guns, with a 3-minute "flash" between coats, followed by a 10-minute bake at 200F to "skin" the surface prior to sanding. In the next stage, any surface defects were power- and hand-wet-sanded with mineral spirits, then wiped off prior to entering the final "reflow" oven. This bake lasted 30 minutes at 275F, where the lacquer surface softened and "re-flowed" to a uniform gloss.

The last process for a non-stripe car was the blackout booth, where the firewall was blacked-out, the trunk was sprayed with spatter paint, and sound-deadening undercoat material was sprayed in the rear wheelhouses. The rear "cocktail shakers" on convertibles were suspended in the trunk for spatter painting, but weren't bolted in place until later in the Trim Shop, after the taillights and marker lights were installed.

If the car required Z28, Z10, or Z11 stripes or a black rear end panel or rockers, they were masked and manually sprayed in the in-line repair booth/oven system after the reflow oven, including the cowl vent panel; spoilers were painted body color separate from the body, and were final-installed to the deck lid just prior to the repair booth. The rear window filler panel, deck lid and spoiler were masked and sprayed stripe color in the repair booth, and baked in the repair oven before the body went back downstairs to the Trim Shop. The paint guns in the repair booth were fed from manifolds that were part of the main color circulating system so that the repair booth used exactly the same paint the main color booths were using.



 

44
Restoration / Correct interior painting for 723, Midnight green?
« on: November 08, 2016, 09:58:12 AM »
Hi,
Im helping a friend with the restoration of his X77D80 06A built car and I have some quests regarding the interior and what was painted or just black!

I found these when I searched this web site:
Everything inside a car with a 723 Midnight Green interior would be dark green except for the instrument cluster and the seat belts (unless it was ordered with deluxe seat belts). It would not have left the plant with a black dash pad and headrests.

The instrument cluster would be painted dark green on the sides of it.

1. Should the steering column be Midnight Green as well?
2. What is the RAL or NCS-code for that Midnight Green interior color?
3. Where can I find an example of the only the outside instrument cluster paint?

45
Mild Modifications / Re: The Hugger goes ZL-1....
« on: November 02, 2016, 05:44:35 PM »
congrats on ride of the month. Sometimes it takes submitting more than once, there is a lot of nice rides competing over there.
Thanx, it was really great to be the choosen this time and it feels great that there are more people then me that appreciates my ride!  8)
But you neither have any clues either regarding the numbers on the new ZL-1 block?  :(

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