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97550 Posts in 11720 Topics by 4581 Members
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31  Camaro Research Group Discussion / General Discussion / Re: 69' Z/28 on eBay... What a Car! on: January 24, 2014, 07:56:55 AM
unless you had a private booth, and had access to lacquer products, it is going to be tough to get a car painted in the states with it now a days.
I can buy lacquer at my jobber and it can be sprayed privately or at any shop.

The lacquer on these cars was reflowed, not cut and buffed.  Cutting uncleared lacquer too much distrupts the metallic and creates a blotchy appearance. And today's lacquer is not like that of '69, so painters choose BC/CC instead.
32  Camaro Research Group Discussion / Restoration / Re: photos of my 69 build, on: January 23, 2014, 07:22:39 AM
There is often no recourse if a car is found to be rotten. No rust is wide open to interpretation. If there is no visible rot then sellers will state rust free. A buyer uneducated in bodywork who becomes disappointed after a teardown is common. Sometimes a shiny paint job hides butcher work and they fall for that. The hack job on those quarter skins is no surprise. Many people think their backyard butcher repairs are good enough. They are clueless in the trade, have no equipment or money and want to patch a POS any way possible to just drive the car. Cars like this were common.
33  Camaro Research Group Discussion / Restoration / Re: photos of my 69 build, on: January 22, 2014, 04:18:05 PM
If you are paying someone be prepared to fork over a lot of cash. With zero experience and no shop you can learn to do it yourself; that's if the car is even worth saving. Some say they all are but that depends on the individual. GM assembly line take offs are the sheetmetal parts you want, even if they need work. Late stamped NOS are not plug and play. If you are going to proceed, gut the whole car. No need to strip that garbage off the panels. It all gets bulk dropped before media blasting the body. Then you'll find out if what's left can be carried in a suitcase.
34  Camaro Research Group Discussion / Restoration / Re: 1969 Z/28 Leaf Springs on: January 15, 2014, 11:42:44 PM
Do an advanced search on this site. Sandblasting and finishing incorrectly will not produce an original appearance. New springs and raw steel have a unique appearance. Go to your local spring shop or steel yard and have a look.
35  Camaro Research Group Discussion / Restoration / Re: who do you all get body parts from? on: January 14, 2014, 07:16:04 AM
Repro and NOS sheetmetal is a complex topic with many variables. I've rejected Goodmark panels supplied with a job. Late stamped NOS fenders will need work to be acceptable. The dies are worn, edges are too rounded and they have ripples. So after you plunk down top dollar for them add more to the T&M pile. Most NOS sellers are clueless about bodywork so they don't know the panels are not great. AMD panels are good but they have shortcomings too. Panel quality varies by year. A positive report on a particular panel does not mean the entire run is good. A CHL roofskin went on with only a minor mod required to an A-pillar. Roofskin supplied by Classic Industries and manufacterer unknown needed mods to all corners. Decklids run narrow, not all tailpanels are stamped right. That's just for starters.
36  Camaro Research Group Discussion / General Discussion / Re: Package Tray Paint on: January 12, 2014, 04:13:39 PM
Old topic, but I add my own work here.

Not Package Tray Paint, but maybe the same output. I used Eastwood Trunk Paint Aerosol. Just very thin single layer. (I tried this for the trunk, but it was not good enough for that purpose). The pattern is very low and therefore it did not fit to the trunk paint so good.

When it was dry, I painted basic matte black on top of it.

I think the result is acceptable. What do you guys think?

Too much texture. Use SEM Texture Coating, have your jobber mix up the paint using the code which has the correct texture additive, or duplicate using dry spray technique.
37  Camaro Research Group Discussion / Restoration / Re: Undercoating on inside of quarter panel ??? on: January 08, 2014, 08:59:58 PM
You can't compare today's epoxy to products and procedures used back then. Undercoating is not going to make the epoxy you are using fail and the panel rust. 
38  Camaro Research Group Discussion / Restoration / Re: Floor drain plug direction - face up or down? on: January 08, 2014, 08:52:32 PM

I I believe it was John H mentioned the letter designated the stamping plant it was produced at. George
That info is on CRG's numbers decoding page. And yes, John Z has spoken about it.
39  Camaro Research Group Discussion / Restoration / Re: Floor drain plug direction - face up or down? on: January 08, 2014, 04:36:35 PM
Plugs with holes apply to Pontiac. All were secured with sealer and hardware on the LeMans/GTO bodies I have. Stamped with H also.
40  Camaro Research Group Discussion / Restoration / Re: Fender, fender extension to front valance alignment ??? on: January 07, 2014, 10:41:32 PM
I massage repro panels before I resort to persuading GM tin. I had no problems perfectly aligning the last 67 and 68 GM front end panels. Which leaves your repro fender as the variable. Align the GM panels and then determine a course of action on the repro fender. Is this car at the bodyshop you mentioned a while ago? If so they should know how to repair the car. Parts often need to be persuaded into alignment, it's standard procedure.
41  Camaro Research Group Discussion / Restoration / Re: Floor drain plug direction - face up or down? on: January 06, 2014, 06:54:37 AM
http://www.camaros.org/forum/index.php?topic=2438.15 Domes face up. No screws on these cars. Fusor 800EZ is close to original color of sealant.
42  Camaro Research Group Discussion / Originality / Re: NOS sheetmetal on: December 30, 2013, 08:24:19 AM
1981 is on this non zero sticker also. I have no data on the correlation.
43  Camaro Research Group Discussion / Originality / Re: NOS sheetmetal on: December 29, 2013, 10:00:22 PM
What panels are you looking to purchase? Late stamped tin numbers are preceeded by a zero. Fenders can lack edge crispness, line definition, have overly large edge and high crown radii, provide poor alignment and can have excessive ripples. A minimum of a day's labor is not uncommon for fenders at the end of a die's life. But most sellers have no bodywork experience and still command top doillar for them. Early stamped tin can be better but is no guarantee. Assembly line take offs are the best choice even if they need work.
44  Camaro Research Group Discussion / Restoration / Re: Fender skirt... on: December 24, 2013, 03:49:31 PM
The passenger side had the nuts manufactured in the support, the driver's side had square cut-outs in the support requiring a separate nut and bolt so Chevrolet thought about something from the start.

Both sides have pierce nuts. If only the rectangular holes are in your LH brace then the pierce nuts are missing. As in the link I posted, I have original skirt brackets, and the marks where they were against the pierce nuts are evident. The bracket was retained with nuts on the bolt that mounted the brace. The LH brace retainer bolts have a captured washer and are longer than the RH side.
45  Camaro Research Group Discussion / Restoration / Re: Fender skirt... on: December 23, 2013, 07:54:20 PM
http://www.camaros.org/forum/index.php?topic=11524.0
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