That's good to know Scott. Are they stamped in the same format?

Affirmative.

original GM doors had a sheetmetal date stamp behind the interior door panel, but I guess that would not apply to NOS doors, only assembly-line doors that were installed on cars at the time of assembly.

Not necessarily. The pair of 67 NOS fenders I have are stamped.

If you don't want to make your own ring, they sell it repro.

PC7 in Eastwood's kit can be purchased at a local hardware store. The proper way to finish a wheel is with urethane primer and topcoat. I've never bought one product from Eastwood.

 Pictures and the screen cannot be relied upon for accurate hue and value representation. Unless of course the colors being compared are dramatically different. Radiosity, metamerism, camera settings, lighting, and environment can make a color appear differently when these are changed. Photographers, artists and auto painters who understand color and photograpy know this; most car enthusiasts do not. The first and second photos of the car in question are a perfect example, they do not appear the same.

Someone mentioned they do not recall today's new paint in EO being the same as it was 40 years ago. For one thing, the tints in paint systems today are different. And the mind cannot remember color to a higher level of accuracy. I have to match color in auto paint and when doing realistic artwork. I can't go by memory to match a color, no artist can. Reference in required.

Radiator joint failure is caused by expansion and contraction. The radiator's rubber mounts solve this problem. Vibration of which you speak still gets transmitted to the radiator support through the front end sheetmetal, whether you have solid mounts under the support or not.

George, Your floorpans appear the same % as SEM Trim Black, which is similar yet again to PPG DDL 9266.

I can show two more references of 30% and 60% black and they appear similar due to lighting and camera settings. When attemting to match gloss % from a screen one can continue ad infinitum. If someone brought me a photo I'd have to shoot a test for their approval no matter what. Go ask your shop or jobber to look at a deck. For instance, PPG has a deck containing various gloss percentages of black. Even with those a sprayout is still required.

Jerry's book says 75 to 85 % gloss.

That's what uncut and unbuffed lacquer looks like. Using a screen or photo to determine exact gloss levels is not accurate. Neither is some of the actual reference people use to hit a target. Trying to explain this to non painters is often futile. Here's a link with another original tailpanel photo: http://www.camaros.net/forums/showthread.php?t=217976

By not doing it from a screen I mean not entirely. Alignment is a choreography. Through observation, multiple adjustments and compromises objectives are achieved. I can’t see exactly how all the panels interact with one another so only basics can be provided. How is the decklid to tail alignment? The perimeter of the light hole can also be persuaded in or out slightly. The tail top center can go in or out to align with the decklid. By making multiple corrections, fit is achieved. This providing your bezels are not junk. GM tail vs other repros here: http://www.camaros.net/forums/showthread.php?t=212160&page=2&highlight=AMD+tailpanel

Repro quarters too? The top outside corner is pulled in because the installer aligned it to the quarter. Last car I did had repro quarters with a GM tailpanel and the CHQ bezels fit well, approx 3/32"(divide that by two) manipulation of tailpanel required. The 1/4" you have gets divided by two. Present job with AMD tailpanel and quarters accepts GM taillight bezels nicely and will require no work for a tight fit. The original GM bezels on my GM tailpanel conform well with no gaskets. Gaskets should not be used to make up a gap. One cannot do bodywork from a screen, but it's not a big deal to make multiple manipulations to achieve a better bezel fit. Best to save original gaskets, they barely show when installed. My original gaskets don't leak and I've R&R'd the lights numerous times. How's the upper bodyline just under the lid on that repro tailpanel look? Is it just like a GM line or is it noticeably different?

There are many threads on here with photos and info about the various undercarrage colors, and why they vary in hue and coverage. You'll also find that a person did not shoot the car's color, it was automated.

Pulling a subframe and leaving the nose installed is an easy task. Read the assembly process, although that document is not required for subframe removal. Bushings are supposed to be replaced, and the frame sandblasted and/or repaired before bodywork and paint as per standard practice. Many don't even install the subframe until after paint and the nose is bolted on first.

Using grits higher than 800-1000, depending on whether you are speaking of CAMI or FEPA grade, decreases mechanical adhesion for topcoats and is not recommended. I shoot flowcoats over P800 and clear lays down nicely. Single stage(SS) metallics and painters with limited experience are not a good combination. These cars were not clearcoated, they were reflowed to achieve a unifom appearance. Start buffing SS and distrupt the metallic and blotchiness is the result. Today's lacquer is not formulated like that of 43 years ago. Urethanes are superior systems. Want more paint info on lacquer and urethane from professionals in collision and restoration? Go to Refinish Network: http://www.refinishnetwork.com/ People there paint all day, every day. I stopped using lacquer in 1984 shortly after entering the industry.

It's for that braided ground strap hanging behind the rocker. See the hex head screw in this photo? http://www.camaros.org/images/pages/options/firewall_speedo.jpg

[As an aside:]

As an aside: I did not take notice of this initially, however through out my 48 month non scientific study and recollection (worth what it will purchase) recalls LOS cars having indented head bolts in positions 2 & 3 where as the NOR cars had RBW's like pictured.[/i] 

IMHO this has not been covered in enough detail and there are FAR TOO MANY CARS which are NO WHERE CLOSE to being correct. 

My LOS '67 has the indented head bolts and all correct washers. The NOR '67 I'm doing has the flat head RBWs as shown, also with correct washers.

You are saying that your direct observations corroborate mine, correct?

Correct.