Messages

1351

Maintenance / Re: 69 Who rebulids front calipers?

« on: June 18, 2008, 09:40:55 AM »

 You can. You can get the kit. I did mine (and others)12 thousand miles ago and they work fine. Inspect the bore and piston after disassembly. If not, then one of the other members can recommend someone who is reputable. Be sure to excercise safety when using air to push out piston. Not a condescending remark, just don't know if you have done them before.  Scott

1352

Restoration / Re: New subframe bushings and fender alignment problem

« on: June 14, 2008, 02:17:41 AM »

 Wow. Never had this dilemma before. Not being there does not help. Your reworked frame may be a problem. But lets take a reverse approach first. With the car on our lift we  dropped the subframe out of a rust free uncut 69 to re-detail the sub-frame and components. The front clip was left in place(minus the hood of course).  The clip doesn't need the subframe to establish proper door to fender gaps. Detailed the subframe and put it back in place like clockwork. I do not assemble cars this way but am using this scenario as an example.--Endulge me for a moment. Establish proper door to quarter and door to rocker gaps(assuming origional metal or properly installed metal we hope). Hang fenders, radiator support and braces and establish proper fender to door gaps and tighten appropriately.(Assuming GM fenders or non-reject aftermarkets)  Now with your bushings in the proper places the subframe should bolt in place relatively close allowing for some slight bushing crush. It has no choice. Any botched frame repairs, inconsistencies or  measurement variations will now be evident. Keep in mind until you put hood and subfame in you may have some nose rack but we are trying to diagnose a vertical  problem first. Nose rack is a cake walk.

1353

Restoration / Re: 67 camaro rear glass

« on: June 12, 2008, 09:55:33 AM »

 I'ts clear and I'll take out today for inspection.-- S.

1354

Restoration / Re: 67 camaro rear glass

« on: June 11, 2008, 09:07:14 PM »

I have an XZ. I'll get it out of storage for inspection if you still require one. Scott

1355

Originality / Re: 69 Steering column paint (black int) What color ?

« on: June 09, 2008, 09:52:10 AM »

Krylon will do. But if you're  not set up to spray with a gun you will prefer SEM trim black as it has the proper sheen. Auto body supply stores have it, or can acquire it for you.

1356

Originality / Re: 69 Steering column paint (black int) What color ?

« on: June 08, 2008, 10:57:09 PM »

  PPG code 9266.(semi gloss) Cross reference for your brand preference. SEM trim black is close out of the can. As well as Krylon. Seymour is good too. Consistency when using Krylon's laquer or enamel based paints is recommended. It all depends on how much flattening agent is added and how well the paint is agitated weather you will get the degree of sheen you are shooting for.

1357

Research Topics & Reports / Re: Research help needed, 68 front drum style, finned vs unfinned

« on: May 24, 2008, 10:53:18 PM »

  My 68 base 327 2 barrel has non finned, non power fronts. Both my 67's (1 base 327 2 barrel, 1 RS 327 2- barrel) are non-finned non power. My brother's 68 SS/RS 396 however has power finned front.

1358

Restoration / Re: Paint on floor pans

« on: May 15, 2008, 11:01:36 PM »

  As the underside of cars from the factory were not masked off it would hold true that floor pans would have body color overspray on them in succession. For example, your blacked out rockers. I've been doing my own ground ups and custom airbrushing for 25 yrs. and although some prefer no overspray when doing a complete, the factory was not as confining in their painting practices. John Z. will confirm the factories approach to painting procedures.

1359

Decoding/Numbers / Re: Bumpers

« on: May 13, 2008, 03:15:57 PM »

Thanks John. You are quite knowledgable.

1360

Decoding/Numbers / Re: Bumpers

« on: May 13, 2008, 02:47:10 PM »

  My 67 still has GM sticker on front bumper and reads: 3929954. At bottom of sticker in smaller letters it reads: 2008H5. I've owned this car since 1984.   Scott

1361

Restoration / Re: draft

« on: May 08, 2008, 09:49:03 PM »

 I agree with John Z. Apparently I was not technical enough and chose inappropriate adjectives.  By stopping the "source" I meant just that. The "source" which is from the plenum (hence plenum induction system)  must be stopped. Components in the heater box achieve this objective. Best to inspect prior to installation.

1362

Restoration / Re: draft

« on: May 08, 2008, 12:27:50 PM »

  My writing tends to be pragmatic.  First you have to stop the source of the" draft". Which would be the flappers in the box. If their throw is incomplete the gap will allow infiltration. Any binding or pivot points not operating smoothly due to corrosion will hinder operation. Throw can be adjusted on the top of box. Cables should be disconnected at these points and heater control levers operated independently of the box to verify free movement of cable within sleeve. Have mice resided in box causing obstruction? They will leave material deep within box at flapper location. These factors combined with the possibility of misalgned y- pipe should be investigated. With fan on high there should be little or no leakage around y-pipe when felt at junction to box.         Sauron

1363

Restoration / Re: draft

« on: May 08, 2008, 12:07:59 AM »

 Although obvious, the firewall pad( excellent condition I assume) needs to be kept in position to maintain a proper seal when re-installing heater box. The kick panel also has a seal behind it which may be deteriorated or not put back in when the car was restored.

1364

Maintenance / Voltage regulator

« on: May 07, 2008, 11:24:59 PM »

 New to website. Found that the advice on switching to Well 715 VR was perfect. Problem solved. Went through 4 Delco-Remy regulators( 3 were brand new) and all were junk. System works without a hitch now. My alternator repair guy also told me never buy reman. alt. Mine was and he had to go thrugh it 'cause it was improperly done.