Messages

1126

General Discussion / Re: Oil Filters...

« on: August 11, 2009, 01:48:58 PM »

Wix and Napa Gold are the same animal according to the Napa rep. But only the Gold. Any conflicting facts on this?

1127

Maintenance / Re: Generator Dash Light

« on: August 11, 2009, 02:07:01 AM »

I'm betting you are having the alt tested.  715's are cheap too. Put in the good alternator, see what happens. Then put in the 715 if still a problem. The housing on the 715 MUST be grounded. 14.2 volts is your goal. How is the battery anyway? If this is still giving you grief you are going to have to get a multimeter and start checking various wire voltages.

1128

Maintenance / Re: Generator Dash Light

« on: August 10, 2009, 11:43:04 PM »

My car will put out 12.7 volts at idle, which is fine for a 37 amp alt. And it will hit 14.2 before  I get to 2 grand. Your car is still not reaching optimum output. You say it's an old harness so inspect and CLEAN all the connections and insure all EXCELLENT grounds.  Before you start checking proper readings at the brown and blue wire at the VR I would have the alternator tested and put in a Wells VR715. The readings of those wires will determine why the GEN light stays on and how the system is sensing inadequate voltage.

There is a way to recalibrate a Delco VR but quite frankly I could not be bothered with a correct looking VR on my Jane and went to a 715.

Apparently your j. block was bypassed but that's not an issue now aside from cosmetics. But it would annoy me. Test the alternator? Well you know it's charging but the VR may be limiting it or it's toast. Perhaps a diode. I have them rebuilt and don't trust remans after the butchery I saw in one. Old brushes and dried out bearings in a shiny case.

1129

Maintenance / Re: Generator Dash Light

« on: August 10, 2009, 09:20:43 PM »

While engine is running what's the voltage at the back of the alternator and at the battery?

1130

Maintenance / Re: Generator Dash Light

« on: August 10, 2009, 08:57:48 PM »

Is this a new harness? I'm not sure how the system is being fed if there is no wire going from the battery to the junction block and from there to the VR and horn relay. Where does the large red wire go that comes from the harness at the VR? It has to go across the radiator support to the j.block. Your also not putting out enough voltage. 13.4 is not enough. Test the alternator. New Delco Remy VR does not mean it's good. Your system is sensing inadequate output. My gen light was on and I was only putting out 13.1 volts at the back of the alternator and I switched to a wells VR715 and problem solved. This may not be your problem. If voltage testing is required on the wires at the VR then you will have to do as I and research it. For I cannot rattle that info off the top of my head. 

If someone else with electrical diagnosis expertise can add please do so.  

1131

Maintenance / Re: Generator Dash Light

« on: August 09, 2009, 05:00:37 PM »

Voltage regulator is on the left side of the rad support and should be grounded, horn relay next to it. Junction block behind battery is main feed to system from battery. I'm a tad confused because you said the car currently has nothing but you are testing the charging system? Is this the H. Orange car you are restoring? A Wells 715 is an electronic voltage regulator. Not origional looking unlesss you change the covers. But you can tell by looking at the back of the housing, Judges know the difference. I don't know what your intentions are with the car.

1132

Maintenance / Re: Generator Dash Light

« on: August 09, 2009, 03:59:50 PM »

Check the connections on the VR. And all others too. Horn relay bussbar, junction block behind battery, and especially the grounds. I assume you are using a stock VR and do not want to use a Wells VR715? You should be charging at least 14 volts with no accessories at the back of the alternator. I'm not an electrical magician but I'd start there before you start seeing how the GEN light is fed; which I believe is the brown wire from the VR.

1133

General Discussion / Re: 68 69 Subframes

« on: August 08, 2009, 03:23:01 PM »

If the extra bracing is the main difference, are they interchangable?

Affirmative

1134

Originality / Re: Correct 67 Control Arm Shaft

« on: August 08, 2009, 09:10:49 AM »

I'm not sure what you are meaning by NOS ones. Do you mean are they originals and not service parts? Most likely they are originals. As production moved closer to the end of the '67 model year, the dog bone style becomes more prevalent on LOS cars.

-Jon

My inquiry was unclear. I was referring to a new pair I have in the boxes, GM part # on the shaft, that are straight, not dogbones. Leftover from an '84 build. Just as in the top part in the above attached pic.

1135

Restoration / Re: 69 subframe mounting dimensions for body stand

« on: August 08, 2009, 01:24:43 AM »

The amount of work you car needs will determine how extensive your cart will be. Needlesss to say a rotisserie is most convenient if you're not completely rebuilding the shell. If it's solid I'd just support it solidly at the  subframe mounts under the firewall and the rear frame rails. There are numerous posts at Team Camaro about body jigs but building a cart is pretty straightforward if you have the dimensions. Hopefully these attachments are successful.

1136

Originality / Re: Correct 67 Control Arm Shaft

« on: August 07, 2009, 05:00:05 PM »

My LOS has the dogbones.

I have seen many LOS '67 Camaros with the straight control arm shaft. Quite often one straight and one dog bone on the other side. I'm sure this was just two different suppliers at the time. I have seen way too many examples going well back into the '70s and this is not just a service part situation. I should make clear this in regards to LOS-built '67 Camaros. For Norwood-built cars or other years, I have not followed the usage to the same degree.

-Jon

My LOS has the dogbones. So is it correct to assume that I indeed have NOS ones and not service parts?
Someone needed an NOS pair and when they saw mine they were not interested.

1137

Originality / Re: body plug seam sealer

« on: August 06, 2009, 11:28:48 AM »

The best? You can use 3M or Tiger Seal by UPOL. I switched to UPOL and liked it. Either weapon will work.

1138

Originality / Re: Correct 67 Control Arm Shaft

« on: August 06, 2009, 12:10:40 AM »

From what I've gathered the top photo (straight shaft) is a service part. I've had two new service ones hanging around for 20 years. Both my 67 and 8 have the dogbone one as well. 

1139

Originality / Re: paint codes

« on: August 04, 2009, 04:07:31 PM »

I asked because 67 dash's call for PPG 9248. 8's and 9's call for PPG 9266. Dash tops are 9317 with texture additive. You can also use SEM Trim Black 39143 which sprays nicely and is available in aerosol and gun sprayable. I like it and 9266. Most suppliers can put just about anything in aerosol now. If you do a search on this site with any of this info you can read untill you eyes fall out.

1140

Maintenance / Re: 1969 camaro non rs wipers wont park?

« on: August 04, 2009, 08:57:00 AM »

New or old motor? Inside the motor there is a parking mechanism and contacts. Usually this is the problem. It's been sometime since I've had to diagnose that issue. Your switch is good because the motor is getting juice. Check/clean all connections and grounds while your into it also.