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Messages - Vince

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226
Originality / Re: Original Hurst Shifter or Not
« on: October 18, 2013, 11:55:32 PM »
Another pic.

227
Originality / Re: Original Hurst Shifter or Not
« on: October 18, 2013, 11:53:17 PM »
Thanks for all your info guys.  It appears my shifter is original.  I said that the handle was riveted to the shifter, but it does look more like a shim on each side that locks in and holds the handle on.  The handle is round except for the flat part where the word HURST is on each side.  Here are some photos, hope this helps.     

228
Originality / Original Hurst Shifter or Not
« on: October 17, 2013, 05:47:34 PM »
I am trying to determine if the Hurst shifter in my '69 Z/28 is the original one that came from the factory or not.  The handle is riveted to the shifter rather than bolted.  On the shifter it says:  Hurst Competition/Plus, has a number, 128D11C stamped on it, and the following US patent number, 3216274, also stamped on it.  I am thinking that this is not an original shifter that was installed at the factory but would like to know for sure.  Thank you. 

229
General Discussion / Re: What Would You Do?
« on: October 07, 2013, 11:33:54 PM »
Thanks for your input and answers, guys.  When one knows as little as I do mechanically, your knowledge is greatly appreciated. 

230
General Discussion / What Would You Do?
« on: October 05, 2013, 01:12:40 AM »
OK, I found my original thread.  It was under the title What Would You Do?  Sounds like I need a shifter and or linkages rebuild? 

231
General Discussion / Transmission gets locked in gear
« on: October 05, 2013, 01:02:25 AM »
Twice now in the past 2 years my 1969 Z/28 with a M-21 trans (non-original) has after coming to a stop at a stop sign and then trying to put it into first gear to pull away has had the tranny jam in a gear, usually second, or stay in neutral without being able to put it into any gear.  The shifter handle will just freeze up and not be able to be moved at all.  I've had to have it towed both times.  The first time the transmission shop could find nothing wrong with it (it was stuck in second gear when it went into their shop they stated); they cleaned the shift rods, lubed them and everything was fine until this past Wed. when the same thing happened again.  It is currently in the same shop.  I haven't heard back from them yet.  I've owned this Z for 17 years and have had no problem with the trans prior to this first incident in 2011 and now again this week.  Any ideas?  I posted about this problem back in probably around Sept., 2011 but can't find my original post asking about this problem.  Thank you in advance for any advice, ideas, fixes, etc. 

232
General Discussion / Re: It's Baack-----2014 Z28
« on: April 12, 2013, 12:42:25 AM »
I like everything about it except that I read somewhere, can't remember where though, that the new Z/28 was going to cost more than the ZL1. 

233
General Discussion / Re: Build Quality in the Muscle Car Era
« on: February 05, 2013, 07:44:16 PM »
I've read in more than one place, including the opinion of Joe Oldham in his book "Muscle Car Confidential, Confessions of a Muscle Car Test Driver", that GM lead the way in build quality in that era with Chrysler taking a distant third behind Ford too.  All the articles though also mentioned that in terms of engineering, specifically engines, transmissions, drivetrains that Chrysler didn't take a back seat to anyone. 

234
Maintenance / Re: Vacuum Advance
« on: September 19, 2012, 06:17:19 PM »
Thanks guys for your info.

235
Maintenance / Vacuum Advance
« on: September 18, 2012, 05:44:56 PM »
I have a couple of questions regarding the vacuum advance and the hose hook-ups for a 1969 Z/28 with the 30-30 cam.  I had the valve lash settings done using JohnZ's guide from this website.  My cars initial and mechanical advance settings have been set to 11 degrees initial and 36 total all in at 2,800 rpm.  My car currently does not have vacuum advance hooked up, and I want to set it up as JohnZ describes in his article using manifold vacuum. 

First question:  When I set my car up like this the idle went up to around 1,400-1,500 rpm.  Is this normal?  Without the vacuum advance it is between 900-1,000.  Is all I have to do is adjust the idle speed to 900-1,000 with the manifold vacuum hook-up?

Second question:  What do I do with the nipple on the AIR diverter valve?  As far as I know my AIR system is operational.  Can I leave the nipple exposed or should I put a plug over it?  Is their something else I need to do regarding the AIR system?

Thank you.

236
Decoding/Numbers / Re: Carburetor Date Code
« on: July 05, 2012, 06:52:16 PM »
Thanks for the info guys.  In my own mind I thought that the carb was built too close to the car build date for it to be the original carb that came on my car, but I wanted to see what other opinions were. 

237
Decoding/Numbers / Carburetor Date Code
« on: July 02, 2012, 06:51:32 PM »
Would a Holley 4053 carb with a date of 913 be too close to have come originally on an 01C Z/28?  Car was built at Van Nuys assembly plant if that would make any difference.  Thank you. 

238
General Discussion / Re: CRG Code Names
« on: April 10, 2012, 05:27:33 PM »
Since I own a 1969 Z/28 I chose Vince to honor Vince Piggins, generally regarded as the driving force behind Chevy offering the Z/28 package to homologate the car for SCCA Trans-Am racing.  My real name is Mario.

239
General Discussion / Re: Diverter Valve
« on: February 09, 2012, 10:13:54 PM »
My 01C '69 Z/28 has the wire on the diverter valve.  It's a Los Angeles car if that might matter. 

240
Originality / Re: 69z tires
« on: January 07, 2012, 12:28:53 AM »
From photos the original owner of my 69Z sent me it came with Goodyear Wide Tread GT's.  It is an 01C Van Nuys car. 

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