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97207 Posts in 11691 Topics by 4578 Members
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646  Camaro Research Group Discussion / Restoration / Re: black on tailpan on ss cars on: June 18, 2009, 05:49:23 AM
What would be the correct sheen for the rockers on RS cars? Gloss or semi-gloss?
647  Camaro Research Group Discussion / Maintenance / Re: 69 1111480 distributor on: June 17, 2009, 06:12:57 AM
I have a follow-up question regarding resetting the centrifugal advance curve via the springs.  Does anyone have any experience with the centrifugal advance curve kit #735-4957 from NAPA?   This is the kit for the non HEI, point style GM distributors.

I have weak springs in my distributor allowing my centrifugal to start pulling in advance at 600 RPM.  I need to change the springs to hold the centrifugal from coming in until about 1000 - 1500 RPM.  I have a 69Z 302 with the idle set at about 900 – 950 RPM.

I purchase this kit recently.  The kit comes with three different springs, two different limit bushings, and one set of weights.  Unfortunately, neither the kit or NAPA’s web site provide any technical info at what RPM their spring sets allow the advance to start, or what RPM the advance is “all in”.  The kit also does not let you know the advance limit on the two bushings.

One last question:  has any one weighed original vs. aftermarket/replacement advance weights while fine tuning their distributors?

I can spend some trail and error time experimenting with this NAPA kit but hoped to “cut to the chase” with other’s experience with this kit.

Thanks

Call Eric Jackson at Vintage Muscle Car 937 836-5927. I have had two carbs rebuilt by him (one for my Vette and one for the Z) and a distributor for the Z. He does a great job and very helpful on the phone. He advertises on the Super Car site.

Good Luck

Lawrence
648  Camaro Research Group Discussion / Maintenance / Re: RS headlight washers on: June 17, 2009, 06:06:07 AM
I don't believe it is - it was convenient and helped secure the hoses.

Before I took mine apart I photographed everything along with the location and count of straps, and they were not in the holes. I did not think mine had ever been apart but you never know for sure. I put them back as they were and did not use the holes, but like I said earlier it is a good location to support the harness and hoses.

Good looking car. Did you re use your hoses and actuators or buy new?
649  Camaro Research Group Discussion / Maintenance / Re: RS headlight washers on: June 16, 2009, 05:52:40 AM
Following two posts show routing on my '69 RS  Headlight washer lines can be seen just dangling as they exit from under the top of the core support.

Rich,

Is it correct to have the plastic strap threaded through the hole in the radiator support? Good idea.
650  Camaro Research Group Discussion / Restoration / Re: New tall bumpers guards, they donīt fit! on: June 16, 2009, 05:48:20 AM
I wouldn't take a grinder to anything until I was certain I was not doing something wrong.

I thought the tall bumper guards only went on the back bumper.
651  Camaro Research Group Discussion / Maintenance / Re: 69 1111480 distributor on: June 15, 2009, 05:52:35 AM
What do you do with your diverter signal hose when you have the driver setup?

Lawrence

Ok that is what I thought, and I have done the samething. I just wanted to make sure that I was not missing anything.

Thanks

Look at the first photo and you'll see the diverter valve signal hose coming up past the emblem on the valve cover - I just tuck it out of the way at the intake manifold (it has a BB in it anyway, as the system is non-functional).
652  Camaro Research Group Discussion / Maintenance / Re: 69 1111480 distributor on: June 14, 2009, 06:35:19 AM
<<John Z can you post a pictue of your vacuum hose routing?>>

Here's a photo of my "driving" setup. Note the hose from the distributor vacuum advance can to the tee in the choke pull-off hose (which was already there for the diverter valve signal hose) - that supplies full manifold vacuum to the vacuum advance can. Also note the rubber cap on the original pipe that was connected via a hose to the vacuum advance.

The second photo shows the original factory arrangement for show, with the diverter valve signal hose connected to the tee in the choke pull-off hose, and the original vacuum advance hose in place from the end of the pipe (which is a "ported" vacuum source) to the vacuum advance can.

Takes less than a minute to change from one setup to the other.

John that is very helpful thank you.

What do you do with your diverter signal hose when you have the driver setup?

Lawrence
653  Camaro Research Group Discussion / Maintenance / Re: 69 1111480 distributor on: June 12, 2009, 06:07:34 AM
John Z can you post a pictue of your vacuum hose routing?

Thank you
654  Camaro Research Group Discussion / Maintenance / Re: 69 dash pad on: June 11, 2009, 06:10:28 AM
I hope you have success. I tried everything and got mine to about 65% of what I was trying to achieve.

I just put it on the car and called it Patina.
655  Camaro Research Group Discussion / Maintenance / Re: 69 RS Headlights not working on: June 11, 2009, 06:07:07 AM
A common mistake people make with these is reversing the vacuum lines on the headlamp switch. There is actually an orientation to the vacuum lines at the head lamp switch. If you don't have them connnected properly the vacuum can not bleed off when the headlamp switch is turned on and thus the vacuum relay valve will stay in the up position.

The system is very simple if you take the time to understand how it works.

You should have vacuum at the relay valve top connection when the headlamp switch is off. When you pull the lights on the vacuum should not be present at the relay valve and this will let the piston drop down and apply vacuum to the "open" hoses.

Of course make sure you have good manifold vacuum on the yellow hose which is connected to the storage cannister and also the relay valve.

Engine running, head lamps off:  Vacuum at the relay valve top hose, Vacuum on the yellow hose to the cannister and relay valve. Vacuum applied to the "close" hose going to the vacuum motors

Engine running, head lamp on:  No vacuum at the relay valve top hose, Vacuum on the yellow hose to the cannister and relay valve, Vacuum applied to the "open" hose going to the vacuum motors.

Of course it does not matter which way you connect the green and red hoses to the vacuum motors as long as they do what they want when you work the lights. If not just reverse them.

Hope this helps. I've fixed many of these and it's usually something simple like this.

One more thing, best thing to do if you have not already is get the new vacuum motors from CHQ. They work great.
I ended up replacing both actuators and everything works, but this is how it played out.
1. I had an obviously bad drivers side actuator, replaced it that side worked great, but the passenger side would only open not close. I thought I had a vacuum leak, did all the tests, half stepped the lines no leaks. Replaced the actuator with a new actuator, same issue. It would open but not close. Tested the actuator on the car with a hand pump it worked fine. Still could not get it to work. Checked the vacuum signal going to the actuator...weak but there. Looked at the AIM noticed that the green hose inlet faced towards the center of the car and not the fender, we took the actuator out of the car (passenger side) and turned the green inlet from facing towards the fender to the center of the car and also noticed I had a spring washer in the wrong location. Put it back in and it worked.
The vacuum signal is weak going to the passenger side when closing the doors, but opening it is about the same as the drivers side. I checked all the lines and things seem fine. I have all original lines so what I did was snipped the last 1 inch off all lines that plug into the various ports. I did this because the hoses had swollen due to be connected to the various ports for the last 40 years. They fit much tighter now.

We did put the original actuator back on the car because we thought it was still good. It is but we could not get it to work??. (It works off the car??) The original opens fine but needs a little push to close. I am thinkg that there is a little internal resistance in the original when trying to close the doors. Dont know why but it is there. I am going to keep it just in case I need it but I did read on this board about a guy slightly lubricating the actuators with good results.?? We put the new one back on the passenger side and it works fine.

This repair was not as simple as a hose being in the wrong location.
656  Camaro Research Group Discussion / Originality / Re: RPO V 75 on: June 09, 2009, 05:50:49 AM
ok thanks.

Great picture!
657  Camaro Research Group Discussion / Originality / RPO V 75 on: June 08, 2009, 07:32:13 PM
Was this option for snowy weather or for drag racing?
Any of guys out there have it on your cars, and if so does it work. I think this is a pretty cool option and would be really cool if it worked.
658  Camaro Research Group Discussion / Restoration / Re: Radio Speaker on: June 03, 2009, 10:07:47 PM
Does anyone know where to get an original radio speaker repaired?

Larry

Speaker Doctor in Charlotte NC rebuilt mine and it works great. Google them and if you cant find them let me know. I will send you their number.
659  Camaro Research Group Discussion / Maintenance / Re: master cylinder on: June 02, 2009, 05:42:11 AM
Did you bench-bleed the master cylinder? I've gotten rebuilt cylinders that were bad, with just your problem. Just a thought and good luck!

No we did not bench bleed the mc. I bet the thing is bad. I will know soon.

Thanks
660  Camaro Research Group Discussion / Maintenance / Re: 69 RS Headlights not working on: June 02, 2009, 05:41:07 AM
Double check all of your vacuum line connections.  Sounds like you have swapped the lines either at the actuators or at the relay valve.

Actuators act independently.  A problem with one should not affect the other unless it is a physical vacuum leak. 

If both actuators were good before they probably stilll are.  You can check them with a hand vacuum pump.

Thanks Rich.

I am going to the shop today with my vacuum gauge and half step this thing until I figure out what is going on.

I've attached a pretty good trouble shooting article.

Good luck


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