Messages

121

Maintenance / Re: Three electrical questions...

« on: April 23, 2012, 03:55:55 AM »

I suspect that the ground star washer in picture is the one that goes on the wiper switch between dash housing and switch on the back side of dash. Looks exactly like it and maybe someone at one time took it off and it fell down somewhere and they installed a different one possibly. It is needed for the wipers to function properly. Check there first. The wires and plug connect underdash to the rally sport diode extension harness generally located somewhere above or around the steering column unless it was moved over a bit. Just went to garage and to my 67 RSSS and confirmed. And like mentioned earlier, the yellow is for the radio.
J.R.

122

Maintenance / Re: '67 wiper pump

« on: April 08, 2012, 09:30:02 AM »

I even replaced the switch and still no go. The solenoid part is not activating. Doesn't even make a noise like it should when the knob is pressed in. Theres only five total wires involved. Light and dark blue for high and low speeds, a black ground and the white (AAW) wire that jumpers between the two connections. I have ground at the switch/dash and installed new ground between motor housing grommet and firewall. All ground areas were taken down to metal when I did the wiring. The gear/cog I mentioned that constantly rotates is the one on the motor itself with the four lugs sticking outward. For whatever reason, the arm won't lift up and engage the gear that rotates and controls the pump action. Thanks!

123

Maintenance / '67 wiper pump

« on: March 30, 2012, 12:07:02 AM »

I am hoping that someone might have an idea of what I need to do next. The original pump would not spray/squirt. So off it came and I found that the black rubber bellows, (the rubber part that has the spring attached to it inside housing), was torn. I couldn't find a replacement so I bought a new replacement white head pump. The new pump is made slightly different than the original in two areas. First the pump frame mounting holes are 3/4" further apart end to end. It can still be used by using another hole with a longer bolt at the top left side of pump toward the center. SecondThe bellows part is not made the same but the design should work. I installed the new pump and the large black plastic gear will only rotate one turn until it gets stuck and won't move. The metal strap that moves back and forth still moves and tries to catch the gear but it won't budge. If I take the sliding lever and spring off and manually rotate the gear past the stuck area and put back together it works for one more rotation and then sticks in same location again. But the sprayers are working now but won't shut off at all. They actually spray twice more after the wipers park when turned off. I kept searching for parts and found grilleteeth.com, and they have a rubber bellows that replaces the one I need. Ordered and received the new bellows from grilleteeth.com and installed on old pump. I also changed out the washer valve kit. Wired back up and still no washer spray. I have primed the hoses and can actually squirt water through the nozzles if I use a shringe to add slight pressure to supply hose. All other components are new. It now seems as though the switch may or may not be working because I can not hear a clicking when I push in to activate the washers. I previously rewired the entire car and all grounds are good including the one at the wiper motor and at the switch. And just if you are wondering the 4 sided gear/cog on the motor does constantly rotate. Any thoughts? Thanks for hearing me out.
J.R.

124

Restoration / Re: Glove box liner. AC or non AC needed?

« on: March 06, 2012, 08:51:15 PM »

Thanks for the info. I'll just take it out and make a couple repairs that I hope will last until the AC comes along.

125

Restoration / Glove box liner. AC or non AC needed?

« on: March 06, 2012, 02:16:26 PM »

A simple question for those of you who have installed aftermarket AC units. I have a 67 coupe and wish to install a new glove box liner/insert. Eventually I plan to install Vintage Air or some brand of AC and I want to know if it matters which liner I purchase. I really don't know the difference between the two other than it must be the shape or the size. Just don't want to buy one and find out later that I need the other.  Is one larger than the other? Thanks, J.R.

126

Maintenance / Re: Bright high beams, Dull low beams on Hal. lights

« on: February 28, 2012, 09:53:30 PM »

Update

While I was wiring the headlights origionally I had the wiring diagrams out and there was two different views of the front harness. One showing the T3 plug from the front view and the other showing it from the rear view. I imagine it was probably the wee hours of the late night/early morning and I was more tired than I thought. I simply looked down at the wrong diagram and installed the green (low beam) and black (ground) in each others place. Had them reversed. Pulled the connectors out, installed correctly and now have bright low and high beams. It just proved to me that sometimes we are more tired than we think we are and need to back away for a bit instead of moving on. I created this monster and I just have to own it!

thanks for the replys and suggestions,
J.R.

127

Maintenance / Re: Bright high beams, Dull low beams on Hal. lights

« on: February 27, 2012, 11:53:34 PM »

Guess I need to take a look at all the connections again and rule stuff out. I took my sweet ole time during the wiring and didn't take any shortcuts, but there is something and probably a simple fix once I find it. Had a pretty good joke played on me though. Took my car out after installing Sun SuperTach and it was showing 6000 rpm at 55 mph. Knew I installed it right. Didn't know my son or one of his friends had played with the cylinder selection switch on the back of tach. It is now reading 3000 rpm at 55 mph. Running 4.10 gears. Oh well, back to the lights I go.
thanks guys,
JR

128

Maintenance / Re: Bright high beams, Dull low beams on Hal. lights

« on: February 27, 2012, 07:55:55 PM »

I know it has been a while since I started this thread but other things has taken me away from the headlight system until now. I changed out the dimmer switch and there is no change to the low beam lights still being dull and yellow. Since I had just rewired the car with AAW classic update and know that the grounds are clean and new, I am still stumped. I have read that others have done this update without needing any other items such as resistors etc. and these lights have the same 3 prong plug as the T-3's. Looking at other post including Team Camaro site others have just simply changed out the lights and were good to go.
JR

I forgot to mention that I have 11.77 volts at both plugs and have also tried the old T-3's. Same issues with either bulbs. All other electricals including RS doors, limit switches, relays and motors work as they should.

129

General Discussion / Re: Backfire through carb?

« on: January 26, 2012, 10:58:36 PM »

Also, might sound a little elementary; but check and make sure all plug wires are correctly routed in the proper firing order. One wire off or two mismatched can cause backfire through carb.
J.R.

130

Originality / Re: Early 67 Metal Seat Back screws

« on: January 25, 2012, 08:25:57 AM »

Rick's has them if you are looking for some.
J.R.

131

1967 - Orphans / Re: 7N180677 - L48 engine

« on: January 23, 2012, 09:43:39 PM »

By all means, keep posting. I am watching at least daily for the right 396 to one day appear. I think it is great what you are doing, trying to offer components that might help someone get thir car back in order. Thanks!

132

General Discussion / Re: Bucket Seat Back teather cable

« on: January 19, 2012, 08:20:32 PM »

Thanks Ed, I appreciate the effort and will just consider it another wow factor if I do stumble across a set. Can't blame your friend for not wanting to seperate. I wouldn't either. J.R.

133

Maintenance / Re: Adjusting breaker points?

« on: January 16, 2012, 06:53:36 PM »

John Z, I got a kick out of seeing your meter. I have one exactly like it and it too still works. Man, our age is start'en to show

134

General Discussion / Re: Window Tinting preferences

« on: January 14, 2012, 10:40:48 AM »

I personally feel as though you should do what works for you. If it were a bolt and nut restoration and all original, and you planned on having it judged; I would say don't tint them. However with the UV rays much stronger these days, it might be a good choice for your health if nothing else. I personally will eventually tint my windows regardless of what others think. My optomitrist has written a perscription for me to have darker tint than allowed by laws in my state. I have a condition that makes my eyes much more sensitive to light than most people and besides, it will also make the car cooler. I don't have AC in my 67 but it is definitely on the list for later on. Like you mentioned, the tint can be removed if wanted/needed. So with that said, it's your car, do what suits you and your needs and don't worry about what others think. They are not the ones paying for, working on, or driving the car. It's yours, so enjoy it in your own way. I have already put a strip across the front top windshield. My car came with clear glass all around. Just my 2 cents.

135

General Discussion / Re: Bucket Seat Back teather cable

« on: January 09, 2012, 11:27:25 PM »

My 67 is missing it all. I too would be interested. Thanks.