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Messages - Mark

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Might be a 68 replacement light switch, (or if you have a painless wiring harness) there are a couple of terminals that were swapped going from 67 to 68 and it causes issues like this.  67's front parking lights go off when the headlights are on and they don't have side markers,  67 parking lights were only on when the switch was in the parking light position,  while the 68's did have parking lights came on in both the parking light and headlight positions.  There is also a difference in the 67 and 68 ignition switches that can lead to similar issues.

General Discussion / Re: Question About VIN and NCRS Shipping Report
« on: August 28, 2016, 02:44:57 PM »
I've got shipper paperwork for two 7N1767XX Camaros that shipped from Norwood on 1/21, and this car should probably have shipped on 1/23/67, or the 24th at the latest, so the shipping date for this car does not make sense unless they couldn't get this particular car out of the plant before the strike shutdown shipping, or they handled Shipping of Zone cars different than the other regular cars.  24th of February was a Friday, 21st was a Tuesday.  The last VINs for  January and February are off, and December's appears to be some effort to inflate the yearly total.  Remember plants were paid based on the cars produced.

General Discussion / Re: Question About VIN and NCRS Shipping Report
« on: August 27, 2016, 02:06:34 AM »
The VIN and the build date on the cowl tag match up very well for the 01D build week body number should be somewhere near 784xxx.  The car should have been shipped around January 21 (actually a bit later like 1/23) not February 21st.  I suspect you have a Typo on you NCRS document, wouldn't be the first one.  Whats the full info on the body tag.  Zone office delivery can mean all kinds of things, a special order car for a GM exec, something for a national car show, or a demonstrator.

General Discussion / Re: Heater core wA/C questions
« on: August 25, 2016, 09:46:17 PM »
Both sides are different, you can not put a big block engine side A/C suitcase half on a small block fender side A/C suitcase half.  The angle on the dividing line between the two halves are different, and they won't line up properly.  You can however use the whole suitcase from a 400 firebird as it has the same angle as the BBC suitcase used in the Camaros.

General Discussion / Re: Heater core wA/C questions
« on: August 25, 2016, 01:55:41 PM »
The heater cores in an A/C car have tubes that come thru the heater duct in the engine compartment in the same location as big block non A/C cars do but the firewalls are completely different.  You can not just yank the A/C suitcase off the wall and put a BBC engine compartment heater duct on the firewall because the cutout thru the firewall on an A/C car is taller than the height of the duct.  You will have about a 2" gap in the firewall above and below the duct in the engine compartment if you do that.  If your thinking of just dropping a BBC in a small block A/C car and keeping the A/C note that the evaporator case are different with the big block ones being angled more towards the fend to gain a little bit more clearance.  The BBC will hit the small block evaporator case on the lower inside corner and it will probably be next to impossible to get the number 8 spark plug out of the engine.

Maintenance / Re: Chem-Dip is crap
« on: August 25, 2016, 01:46:32 PM »
I haven't used anything yet, but do have a bucket of Berrymans carb cleaner.  Dunk it in a pan and let it sit for a whiile, or rub it on with a rag and go to town with a brush of some kind?  I believe the paint is an enamel based product, don't think its any kind of Urethane or epoxy type paint.

Some people say the spray on Felpro gasket remover will lift the paint off as well.  Don't want to go the Eazy Off or chemical paint strippers as those will for sure affect the coatings of the carb.  I just need to get moving on some of my non car projects and cleaning this carb up is one of them.  Then I can rebuild it and put back on the BBC in my Barefoot Nautique and I can check off one more thing done on my list.

Maintenance / Re: Chem-Dip is crap
« on: August 25, 2016, 11:01:34 AM »
What kind of carb cleaner, or other chemical will strip paint off of a carb hopefully without affecting the coloring of the base carb metal?  I've got an old marine 720 CFM mechanical secondary Holley carb that was painted red (probably originally a Volvo Penta carb) that I need to strip the paint off of and rebuild.

Maintenance / Re: Chem-Dip is crap
« on: August 24, 2016, 05:04:44 PM »
Or Power Plants.

LA built Camaros have a chassi broadcast sheet glued to the top left corner of the gas tank, if the tank is original and the sheet is still there and legible, that's about youre best bet for figuring out what the car was originally, the Tag and the Vin isn't going to tell you what you want to know.

Decoding/Numbers / Re: 67 Camaro possible pace car
« on: June 22, 2016, 07:24:27 PM »
That VIN is in the right range, so the tag probably matches the car, will have to check my image files and list of other known VINs to see where it falls with the others.  Whatever you don't mess with the tag (like removing and reinstalling it), and protect it from getting damaged if the firewall needs more stripping, or blasting.

Decoding/Numbers / Re: 67 Camaro possible pace car
« on: June 22, 2016, 03:21:55 PM »
It does indeed look like a PC tag, all inof looks correct, but I think the tag has been off the car, or at least the filler has been pulled from the rivits.  What's the VIN?

Originality / Re: Air filter Decal and Evaporator decal
« on: May 20, 2016, 10:51:43 AM »
The US is stamped on the machined pad on top of the boss that sticks out the front of the master cylinder

Restoration / Re: Headlamp door not operating properly - RS 1969
« on: May 13, 2016, 05:15:17 PM »
This was a post of mine from 2008 over at when I replaced my original actuator with a repro one and I had the same backwards operation issue.

"The repro headlight relays are labeled backwards. The green hose goes on the top connection and to the back of the actuators, the red hose goes on the bottom and connects to the front of the actuators. With the car running and the headlight switch off vacuum is connected to the top of the headlight relay which pulls up on the diaphragm moving the relay shuttle up and connecting vacuum to the green hoses (back of actuator) which pulls the actuator rods back into the actuator can and pulls the doors closed. When you pull the headlight switch out vacuum is cutoff and vented from the top of the headlight relay and the shuttle moves down (by spring pressure) to connect the red hoses to the front of the actuator which extends the actuator rods and opens the headlight doors.

When you put the override switch into the open position you are plugging up the vacuum connection to the relay which allows the relay shuttle to get pushed down connecting the center vacuum port to the red hoses which opens the headlight doors. If the valve is off the car you can check it by blowing thru the center port, air should come out the bottom port. Apply vacuum to the top of the actuator and air should come out the top port. Make sure the shuttle moves in the relay valve. Push upon the bottom of the shuttle with a 1/4" drive extension, or small dowel. It should move up about 1/4" to 3/8" and then spring back down when you release it. Old ones have a tendency to collect grit and grease and jam up as they draw air up thru the bottom. Clean out to inside with some brake or carb cleaner, and then lube it with some silicone, or dry graphite lube.

My post (Reply#3) above is wrong, the green hose goes on the top, red on the bottom (assuming the green is on the back of the can, and red is on the front) and Yellow in the middle.  I believe the repro actuator valve bodies are (or were) the same ones used for the C3 corvettes and they are labeled opposite the ones used in the Camaro.  They have the R on top, Y on the middle and G on the bottom.  So if you have a repro actuator, the letters on the valve itself are backwards.

Restoration / Re: Headlamp door not operating properly - RS 1969
« on: May 13, 2016, 10:34:31 AM »
If the hoses between the valve and the actuators are swapped (at either end) then the system will operate backwards, the doors should close when you pull the manual override out, and open with it pushed in.  Same with the headlight switch, head lights off, doors will open, headlights on doors will close.

Restoration / Re: Headlamp door not operating properly - RS 1969
« on: May 12, 2016, 09:46:23 PM »
There are some wrong installation diagrams out there, including possibly the AIM.  The valve on your vacuum tank should have the red line on the top connection, yellow hose to the vacuum tank on the middle connector, green hose to the back of the actuators on the bottom connector.  Under the dash the hose from the engine (orange striped one) on the barb closest to the firewall, and the other one to the top of the actuator valve next to the vacuum tank on the one closest to the dash.  When you pull the headlight switch out vacuum is supplied to the top of the actuator valve which pulls the valve slider up, which connects the center port to the red hose which pulls the piston in the actuator forward opening up the headlight doors.  When the headlight switch is pushed forward the vacuum is cut off and vented from the actuator valve, and the spool returns to its normal position with vacuum connected to the green lines at the back of the actuator which pull the headlight doors closed.  Should work the same way if you put the manual slide on the actuator valve in the open position.  Doors should open with that lever pulled out, and closed with it pushed back in.

Colors of hoses attached to the valve in this post are backwards, Green goes on top, Red goes on the bottom - leaving original text in place since it is clarified in a post below.

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