31
Maintenance / Re: Console gauges problems
« on: August 15, 2008, 03:11:24 PM »
Thanks for the information above. This pretty much confirms my suspicions on the grounding. Good information.
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32
Maintenance / Console gauges problems
« on: August 15, 2008, 01:51:22 AM »
Ok, here is my situation ... I have a new wire harness, new gauges new bulbs, pretty much new everything in my original console. I'm having two issues (that I'm aware of) and I'm sure getting tired of taking the console apart, especially since the seats are in the car.
1.) Temp gauge not working - new wiring new temp sensor. I think eventually this one will get figured out since it is really only one wire, but please feel free to comment.
2.) This is the one that really has me stumped. There are four gage pods, each with it's own light bulb. 2 of them seem to be working normally. But the lower 2 pods the lights "glow" when the ignition key is turned to the ON position. The others do not. But when you pull the lights switch to on, they all (4) come on bright.
I'm thinking that I must have a short some where in maybe a ground. Does anyone have pictures of the wiring of the console gages? Is there some sort "felt" washer that I'm missing? Also, do both of the metal mounting plates need be grounded? Right now I have the black ground wire that is coming from the harness grounded to the rear plate. There is no ground on the front plate (the ones "glowing") as I would have thought that the black harness groung might have taken care of that too.
When I put this all together, I just had a pile of parts and no instructions. But it seem like it should be pretty straight forward.
Oh, one more thing ... I also have a low fuel sensor warning in this. Could that maybe some issue.
I'm scratching my head ...
1.) Temp gauge not working - new wiring new temp sensor. I think eventually this one will get figured out since it is really only one wire, but please feel free to comment.
2.) This is the one that really has me stumped. There are four gage pods, each with it's own light bulb. 2 of them seem to be working normally. But the lower 2 pods the lights "glow" when the ignition key is turned to the ON position. The others do not. But when you pull the lights switch to on, they all (4) come on bright.
I'm thinking that I must have a short some where in maybe a ground. Does anyone have pictures of the wiring of the console gages? Is there some sort "felt" washer that I'm missing? Also, do both of the metal mounting plates need be grounded? Right now I have the black ground wire that is coming from the harness grounded to the rear plate. There is no ground on the front plate (the ones "glowing") as I would have thought that the black harness groung might have taken care of that too.
When I put this all together, I just had a pile of parts and no instructions. But it seem like it should be pretty straight forward.
Oh, one more thing ... I also have a low fuel sensor warning in this. Could that maybe some issue.
I'm scratching my head ...
33
General Discussion / Re: What do you use for a Coolant Recovery Tank?
« on: August 14, 2008, 08:02:25 PM »
That's what I had in my car - before I start tearing it apart for the resto. Looked like it belonged there and work like it too.
34
Restoration / Re: Correct locaton of proportionong valve on sub frame
« on: August 14, 2008, 07:57:59 PM »
Ok, this is not rockets science we are dealing with here ... But I have been having nothing but problems with my brakes now that I'm near the end of my rebuild. I don't want to bore you all with all the details of my woes ... But will just start off where I am now.
What I have is all brand new or newly rebuilt as follows:
Master Cylinder (309)
Proportioning valve
Disc Calipers
Pads
All Lines and Hoses
Power Booster
Etc.
So basically the entire brake system is all spanking new. There are no leaks at all and the brakes - front and rear bleed with a smooth clear stream (over and over again) and looks fine - no air. When the brake pedal is hit, the rear brakes work perfectly. No issues. They grab tight and hold.
Now the %^&#&% Front disc is another issue! They don't seem to grab at all. But yet, if I pump the brake pedal 5 or 6 times, the grab a little more with each pump, and then hold tight. Once I let off the brake, the it's the same thing again. 5-6 pumps before the front hold tight. Again the rear are working as designed.
I'm stumped and at wit's end on this. This should be a pretty simple thing and it is beating the crap out of me. I'm about ready to swap out the Master ... Again!
But after reading through this thread (good stuff), I am now thinking this just might a proportioning valve issue - even though I all ready replaced my original one (the round one under the master cylinder). Any and all help/advice would be most appreciated.
What I have is all brand new or newly rebuilt as follows:
Master Cylinder (309)
Proportioning valve
Disc Calipers
Pads
All Lines and Hoses
Power Booster
Etc.
So basically the entire brake system is all spanking new. There are no leaks at all and the brakes - front and rear bleed with a smooth clear stream (over and over again) and looks fine - no air. When the brake pedal is hit, the rear brakes work perfectly. No issues. They grab tight and hold.
Now the %^&#&% Front disc is another issue! They don't seem to grab at all. But yet, if I pump the brake pedal 5 or 6 times, the grab a little more with each pump, and then hold tight. Once I let off the brake, the it's the same thing again. 5-6 pumps before the front hold tight. Again the rear are working as designed.
I'm stumped and at wit's end on this. This should be a pretty simple thing and it is beating the crap out of me. I'm about ready to swap out the Master ... Again!
But after reading through this thread (good stuff), I am now thinking this just might a proportioning valve issue - even though I all ready replaced my original one (the round one under the master cylinder). Any and all help/advice would be most appreciated.
35
Maintenance / 1969 Front Disc Brake (caliper) problems
« on: April 24, 2008, 03:52:09 PM »
I have been fight front disc brake issues for the last 2 weeks. It seems that whenever I step on the brakes the fronts go into line lock and I'm done. If I release the presure by backing off the bleeder valves, they seem to let loose, but then as soon as I hit the brake again ... Line Locked! The Master Cylinder, the power booster, all the lines & hoses have are all rebuilt or brand new. The back brakes work perfectly. I just replaced the propurtioning valve as sort of a last resort hoping that would fix the problem (another $100 down the drain)... to no avail. So all that I have left are the calipers themselfs. They are the orginals and have not been rebuilt. I just seems odd that both of them would be bad and behaving excatly the same. But it's the last piece that I have to replace.
Any thoughts on this? Any suggestions?
Thanks in advance.
Any thoughts on this? Any suggestions?
Thanks in advance.
36
Originality / Re: Under Hood Light For Cowl Hood - '69
« on: April 21, 2008, 08:55:29 PM »No, the light was for the oil dipstick, so on a BB, it moved to the pass side.Something that was brought up over at camaros.net, in the case of BB with ZL2, was the underhood lamp still mounted in the SB position as per "View C"?
The AIM (page 418 View C) has the light from the factory on a BB with the ZL2 option and hood insulation and Cowl Induction just to the driver side of the Cowl extension of the hood. The light would shine between the wiper motor and the master Cylinder/power booster. I'm not sure really how effective of a light it would be located there, but that's where it is in the AIM.
37
General Discussion / Re: Mopar Forum
« on: April 20, 2008, 02:21:42 AM »
Try:
http://www.moparforums.com/
and:
http://www.forabodiesonly.com/
For starters. I think these will be helpful sites for you. Good Luck!
http://www.moparforums.com/
and:
http://www.forabodiesonly.com/
For starters. I think these will be helpful sites for you. Good Luck!
38
Originality / Re: Under Hood Light For Cowl Hood - '69
« on: April 20, 2008, 12:08:42 AM »
Thanks John for the reference lead. I see exactly what you are talking about. So now, is it safe to assume that there is only one (1) light under the hood with the Z87 package and ZL2 hood and BB motor?
39
General Discussion / Re: Hallo from Denmark
« on: April 19, 2008, 12:19:59 PM »
Welcome! Enjoy your new ride.
40
Restoration / Under Coating
« on: April 19, 2008, 12:16:45 PM »
The rear wheel wells of my '69 are undercoated. I didn't need to replace them as they are in fine shape as where the rear 1/4's. So my question is this ... If the rears are undercoated ... then should the front wheel wells also be undercoated? I had to replace one front wheel well and the other on is now also bear. I was considering undercoating them to match the rear and also to help quite the stones that will be kicked up in there. I was also thinking that the stones would chip the paint and would eventually start to rust. But at the same time I'm trying to keep the car as original as possible and factory like. Any advise? Thanks in advance.
41
Originality / Under Hood Light For Cowl Hood - '69
« on: April 19, 2008, 12:08:13 PM »
Was there an option to have an under the hood light in 1969 with a cowl induction, a cowl hood and the molded insulation? I can see the AIM where the light(s) placement would be on a SS car or a car with a flat hood, even on a car with a 396, but can't find anything about a car with Cowl Induction. I can't seem to figure where a light would go in sort of setup without hitting anything when the hood was closed ... Other then maybe over by the master cylinder ... which would be a pretty useless place to put it.
Is it possible that a light under the hood on a Cowl Induction, Cowl Hood with molded insulation and BB car in 1969 wasn't an option?
Thanks.
Is it possible that a light under the hood on a Cowl Induction, Cowl Hood with molded insulation and BB car in 1969 wasn't an option?
Thanks.
42
Restoration / Re: Reproduction Sill Plates with Rivets
« on: April 03, 2008, 03:36:56 AM »
Trim Parts also has some pretty nice sill plates. They are also have rivets on the logo.
43
Originality / Re: Z87 Option on BB with Cowl Induction
« on: March 21, 2008, 02:42:54 AM »
So, is safe to assume that a big block with cowl induction woul dnot have had an under the hood light as an option?
44
Originality / Z87 Option on BB with Cowl Induction
« on: March 20, 2008, 04:29:29 AM »
Looking at the AIM it appears that in 1969 cars that came with the Z87 option got lights under the hood as part of the package. Small Block V8's (and I'm assuming L6's) had 2 lights under the hood were as the Big Blocks got only one light under the hood and it place in a little different place then either of the 2 lights that came with SB.
Now what about BB cars that came with the Cowl Hood or Cowl Induction. Did they not get a under the Hood light as part of this package? I can't see were one would put said single light under the hood of a BB Cowl Induction car. Can some answer this question? If an under the hood light did fit in there somewhere ... any pics?
Thanks in advance for any and all information.
Now what about BB cars that came with the Cowl Hood or Cowl Induction. Did they not get a under the Hood light as part of this package? I can't see were one would put said single light under the hood of a BB Cowl Induction car. Can some answer this question? If an under the hood light did fit in there somewhere ... any pics?
Thanks in advance for any and all information.
45
Restoration / Re: Repro radio wiring harness
« on: March 19, 2008, 11:24:04 PM »
I would try M & H Wiring Harness (http://www.wiringharness.com/) and/or American Auto Wire (http://www.americanautowire.com/). i have used both these companies and they are good. See if on them can help you out. I'm guess they will have or can make what you are looking for.