Messages

31

Decoding/Numbers / CHASSIS BROADCAST COPY 147 "TRIM" BOX

« on: June 10, 2011, 04:51:14 AM »

Anybody know what a "V" in box 147 "Trim" of a '69 Chassis Broadcast Copy stand for?
Is that Green?
How is 723 midnight green specified?

32

Originality / Re: No partial VIN on blocks

« on: May 24, 2011, 11:13:24 PM »

it would certainly have a value. not sure how much, but if it is THE original motor, it should go back in it. all the date codes would obviously be correct.

As I previously mentioned, the partial vin was stamped on the front pad and I did record the vin number.
However, after I informed the owner that the block had been decked and that the partial vin was no longer visible he didn't seem too interested in re-joining it with the car.
Unfortunately for him, I'm the only witness who can attest to the vin stamping.

33

Originality / Re: No partial VIN on blocks

« on: May 24, 2011, 06:26:42 PM »

I own block V0109DZ which came out of 19L518297.

Umm, do you realize this car is still out there?

Well I've owned the block close to 10 years, where's the car?

I was contacted by the owner of the above car a while back.
Unfortunately for him, the blocked was decked, the partial vin which was on the front pad is gone, the DZ stamp is still somewhat legible and distinguishable as "V0109DZ".
What value, if any, would having this block back in the original car be?

34

Restoration / Re: Original Dealer License Frame

« on: November 08, 2010, 03:13:20 PM »

You should buy it, you'll probably never see another one and you'll kick yourself for not having bought it. Speaking from experience. :-)

35

1969 - Orphans / 19L513841 Muncie on eBay

« on: June 22, 2010, 08:21:54 PM »

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=120586720117&_trksid=p2759.l1259

36

General Discussion / Re: Heads up on bellhousing alignment

« on: June 16, 2010, 08:30:40 PM »

Sorry to hear about your vibration problem, I just had my tranny rebuilt with new WR M22 gears and before I install it with a new clutch, p.p. and t.o. bearing, I am going to check the bellhousing alignment.

I've just ordered the Browell tool and not sure which dowels to go with if I find the bellhousing alignment is out of tolerance. I was reading the Moroso and Lakewood websites and, contrary to what Jerry wrote in the CRG report about "Once you have correct alignment, apply either red or green Loctite to the dowel pins...",

Moroso doesn't mention using loctite but rather says to drill the block for set screws:
http://www.moroso.com/catalog/categorydisplay.asp?CatCode=23004&pt=37938

Lakewood's instructions don't mention Loctite either when using the EZ Adjustable dowel pins and say to "turn setscrew to tighten (which runs down the center of the pin) and positively locks the dowel in position".:
http://www.lakewoodindustries.com/pdf/74437G.pdf

With the engine in the car, seems the Lakewood EZ Adjustables are the simpler install and probably prudent to use Loctite.
thanks, Mel

37

Maintenance / Re: CLutch recommendations for 1969 Z/28

« on: April 08, 2010, 01:44:14 AM »

Just picked up this set:

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/RAM-92760/

price is very reasonable and is an upgrade from a stock set.
emailed RAM tech support with questions, here is the email I sent:

"Hello,
I wanted information on clutch kit 92760 sold by Summit Racing and
advertised as part of your "Musclecar Series" clutch line.
Why is this kit not shown in your catalogs on your website, is it a
discontinued set?
What is the clamping force in pounds for the pressure plate?
What is the clutch surface material made of?
What is the horsepower rating for this clutch set?

I intend to install this in a 69 Camaro Z28 with a 302 cubic inch SBC
producing 350-375HP, Muncie M20 and 3.73:1 rear gears. Car is driven only
on the street, not daily, with the occasional enthusiastic hard run.
Flywheel is 153 tooth and trans is 1.125" 10 spline input shaft.

Thank you for any information you can provide.
Mel"

This is the reply:

"Mel,

We do this kit specifically for Summit racing, thats why it's not on our
site.  The pressure plate is 3,000lb static, disc material is organic and it
will hold slightly over stock horsepower.  Either this kit or our 88760HDX
kit will work fine the difference is the HDX kit has a steel backed clutch
disc.

Doug
RAM Clutches"

I'm planning on installing it soon, possibly over this weekend, I will post my impressions, car currently has a RAM replacement clutch set installed about 10 years ago.
Mel

38

Maintenance / Re: CLutch recommendations for 1969 Z/28

« on: April 03, 2010, 11:59:33 PM »

here what i found on the hays street & strip hd set up:

http://www.jegs.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/KeywordSearchCmd?storeId=10001&catalogId=10002&langId=-1&N=0&Ntk=all&Jnar=0&Ne=1%2B2%2B3%2B1147708&searchTerm=85-103

http://www.summitracing.com/search/?keyword=85-103&dds=1

a bit cheaper than what Jerry said.

39

Maintenance / Re: Clutch shudder

« on: March 30, 2010, 12:13:46 PM »

I realize this is an older thread and you've probably resolved your issue but,
after resurfacing the flywheel it is possible the the heads of the flywheel to crank bolts interfere with the clutch hub and vibrations are felt through the driveline until you press the clutch pedal, which of coarse increases the clearance.
If thats the case, you may consider removing the lock washers and using locking straps which will increase the clearance between the bolt heads and the clutch hub. I personally would replace the flywheel.

40

Maintenance / Re: CLutch recommendations for 1969 Z/28

« on: March 30, 2010, 11:08:52 AM »

Jerry,
old thread, are you still using this hays clutch set-up? can you post part numbers?
thanks,
Mel

41

1969 - Orphans / Re: Muncie 4 speed--19L566287 Craigslist SF bay Area

« on: March 06, 2010, 06:05:30 AM »

19L566287 was never built, last 69 Camaro built in L.A. ended around 531163 or so...

42

Maintenance / Re: rear spring replacement

« on: December 29, 2009, 12:59:22 AM »

Glad to hear you got them all out, nice job!!

43

Maintenance / Re: rear spring replacement

« on: December 23, 2009, 02:06:45 PM »

If you unbolt the spring from the front bracket you will have more room to work.

you can't get the nut and bolt that goes thru the front spring eye out without dropping the bracket first.

44

Maintenance / Re: rear spring replacement

« on: December 23, 2009, 02:31:28 AM »

Thats a tough one. You need to get inside the area where the nut is, basically each 3/8" bolt goes thru a j-nut. the original ones actually have a nut welded to the j-nut clip, the aftermarket repros are a one piece stamped j-nut with no separate nut.
You may have a couple where the nut has separated from the body of the j-nut clip, you may be able to keep those from turning with the tip of a flat head screwdriver thru the slot where the j-nut is installed.
For the stripped ones, sticking a wedge between the bracket and the floorboard may allow you to back each bolt out.
If all else fails you may be able to cut the bolt heads off with a cut-off wheel or grinding the bolt heads down, or even drilling the bolt heads off.
I'm pretty sure they're 3/8" diameter bolts.
Good luck.

45

Maintenance / Re: slight hesitation

« on: December 22, 2009, 05:33:36 PM »

You need one of these to help u tune that Holley. Invaluable toolbox reference:

http://cgi.ebay.com/Holley-4150-4160-Carburetor-Handbook-Mike-Urich-Paperback-1980_W0QQitemZ341307237285QQcmdZViewItemQQptZLH_DefaultDomain_0?hash=item4f777f23a5

You can also call Holley tech service and they can make suggestions for squirters, cam, jets, and powervalve based on your particulars. First check your vacuum at idle before calling:
  http://www.holley.com/TechService/
  http://www.holley.com/TechService/Library.asp

btw, did you mean a 4779?