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16  Camaro Research Group Discussion / Maintenance / Quadrajet accelerator pump problem on: May 08, 2013, 03:55:24 PM
I have a poser for the group. I've rebuilt more Q-jets than I can remember and have never seen anything like this. The carb is completely rebuilt including new throttle valve bushings and runs great. There is no hesitation and it accelerates smoothly and it idles great but something very odd is going on.

When I turn the engine off the accelerator pump is not working at all making it very hard to start cold! I turn the engine off and quickly pump the throttle while looking down the carb throat and it is not pumping at all. I start the engine and looking down the throat I can see that the pump is working fine. Shut it off again and no pump. I can see the pump moving up and down so the only thing that I can figure is that the float bowl is going empty as soon as I turn the engine off but if that is the case then where is the gas going? The engine does not flood and restarts easily when warm and when I loosened the fuel line at the carb there was still pressure in the line.

I'm about to take the top off the carb but thought that someone here might have an idea before I do that. Any takers?

Mike.
17  Camaro Research Group Discussion / General Discussion / powerglide to TH350 conversion question on: February 08, 2013, 07:36:40 AM


I recently replaced my powerglide transmission with a TH350 and have a question concerning the horse shoe/staple floor shifter. The shifter is adjusted and works with one exception, when I pull the shifter into low the tranny  lever reaches the end of it's travel and the car shifts into low before the shifter reaches the low gear detent. In other words, the shifter travel is too long for the transmission lever travel.

So my question is how to correct this and make the transmission lever travel match the travel in the shifter. Is there a longer lever/arm that I can put on the transmission shift shaft? Do I need to change the shifter detent?

I have searched the forums here and can't find a solution to my problem. I have read that GM used the stock horse shoe shifter with both transmissions and that it should work with both the PG and the TH350 without altering it.

I'm sure that this conversion has been done many times and would appreciate any help that you guys can offer.

Mike.

18  Camaro Research Group Discussion / Restoration / Re: 67 327 oil filter bypass valve on: January 06, 2013, 08:57:19 PM
Thanks for the help.

I took a better look at the check valve today and see how it works now. I had my engine rebuilt professionally and got it back with the spin-on filter adapter attached to the engine block without the bypass plate installed. I spun a filter onto it and started the engine yesterday and the thing leaked like a sieve so I put it away for the night. I saw the engine run on the dyno at the shop so I don't understand what happened between then and now.

I'm just going to put the stock valve plate back as soon as I get back to work on it.

Mike.


19  Camaro Research Group Discussion / Restoration / 67 327 oil filter bypass valve on: January 06, 2013, 09:32:21 AM
I searched the forums and around the net and can't find what I'm looking for anywhere and CRG has been my favorite source of info for years now so I'm turning to you guys first.

Is anyone familiar with the oil filter bypass valve plate that GM used in the early small block chevy canister type oil filters?  I have the original valve plate and am considering replacing it for new in my new engine but sometimes a new aftermarket part isn't as good as the original.

So my question is:  Does the bypass valve ever need replacing? Does it have any moving parts inside that can stick of does it just divert some oil around the filter? Has anyone ever taken one apart to see what's inside?

TIA, Mike.
20  Camaro Research Group Discussion / General Discussion / Re: powerglide specialty tool on: December 07, 2012, 06:29:27 PM
You're welcome, Mike.
Let me kniow how it works.
Jake, Basset Hound, one of three rescues here whom are 'spoiled' to the hilt...

We lost our rescue mutt after fourteen great years and she was our child, she's gone two years now and it still hurts. I'm not convinced that she can be replaced.

So I ran down to Sears hardware and bought a set of 1/4" drive 12 point socket set and another set of 1/4" drive sockets that they call universal sockets. They are supposed to fit 6 pt, 12 pt, torx and even turn stripped heads. I almost can't wait until I need to use one to see how it works. Sounds too good to be true but worth a shot.

The 1/4 12 point was good and I got the seal removed but in the process I also had the shifter lever and parking pin come out. I put the lever assembly back the only way that I think that it COULD go back in but I'm a little worried.

There was a spring loaded lever that I had to pry back in order to get the park pin in between it and fixed piece of metal and the pin is horizontal and facing the rear of the transmission. What bothers me is if removing the pin has disturbed any other internal parts. Also if this is a parking pin then what selects the shift range in the transmission? The pin is the only thing attached to the shifting lever so it must somehow shift gears, no?

Are you familiar with the assembly? Anyone?

Mike.
21  Camaro Research Group Discussion / General Discussion / Re: powerglide specialty tool on: December 04, 2012, 07:41:25 AM
Everett:

Thanks, I'm off to the tool store. I have been collecting tools for thirty years and don't have a small 12 pt socket set. BTW nice dog!

Mike.
22  Camaro Research Group Discussion / General Discussion / powerglide specialty tool on: December 04, 2012, 06:00:45 AM
I'm hoping that someone can share their knowledge of powerglide transmissions with me and save me a bunch of time. I am changing the shifter selector shaft seal and it requires you to remove the shifter shaft first. After removing the drain pan you need to loosen two small (approx 1/4") screws that secure a C clamp to the shifter shaft so that you can slide the shaft out of the tranny case. Sounds easy enough right?

Well the screw heads appear to be 12 point which is unusual in small size screws. They may even be something different but they are in a spot that makes it hard to measure them or count the points. 1/4" six point slips and 7/32" six point is too small. Metric six point won't turn them either.

My question - are these 12 point heads? Do I need a specialty tool to remove them?

Thanks in advance, Mike.
23  Camaro Research Group Discussion / Restoration / Re: reputable machine shop in CT on: October 03, 2012, 11:50:24 AM
Thanks to you all for the replies and I welcome more. Right now Carlquist is looking good being only about a 20 minute ride from home. The others mentioned are all an hour or more.

Mike.
24  Camaro Research Group Discussion / Restoration / Re: reputable machine shop in CT on: October 02, 2012, 05:19:31 PM
Thanks for the tip. I'm in Cheshire and that's just over an hour drive which is doable but I hope not to have to drive that far. I'm pretty close to Waterbury and New Haven which should turn something up. I just love a good word-of-mouth recommendation like yours and L&L goes is on the list.

I also turned up a place called Carlquist Competition Engines which is nearby. Is anyone familiar with them?
25  Camaro Research Group Discussion / Restoration / Re: radiator supports on: October 02, 2012, 03:13:01 PM
I can't say about the firebird vs camaro part but I will coment on the repro part. I put a repro radiator support in my 68 camaro and it was terrible. It's so bad that I'm considering fixing up my old rust support and swapping them when I change the engine in the near future. The overall width was short so that it was hard to assemble the grille and headlights and the accessory holes are all located badly. The windshield washer reservoir bracket didn't even fit. The fender brace holes were also wrong. Nothing bolted up to this thing.

If you go with a repro I recommend pre-fitting things to see how they fit, drilling and fixing where necessary and then take it apart again for paint.

Mike.
26  Camaro Research Group Discussion / Restoration / reputable machine shop in CT on: October 02, 2012, 01:32:29 PM
I've been a member here for years but haven't posted in a long time. Now I'm getting my hands back into the Camaro and am happy to see that Camaro.org still lives because I have a question that you guys may be able to help me with. Is anyone willing to recommend a full auto machine shop in Connecticut? I'm thinking about completely rebuilding the 327 engine that is in the care now or the original number matching L6 that I have on the engine stand but something needs to be done, the old 327 is dead tired. I live in between New Haven and Hartford area.

TIA, Mike.
27  Camaro Research Group Discussion / Maintenance / Re: exhaust system for convertible on: October 11, 2010, 07:00:13 AM
Does anyone have experience with a Flowmaster system? Do they made a full system from exhaust manifold back or do their mufflers fit standard pipes?

Mike.
28  Camaro Research Group Discussion / Maintenance / Re: flooding engine on: October 11, 2010, 06:56:45 AM
Mark:

Thanks for the detailed reply.

I have a section of hose in the fuel line between the pump and carb so I think that I'll install a pressure gauge inline and see what I have there. There is no return line to the fuel tank so installing a return line won't be a small matter but maybe an inline pressure regulator would help.

The heat soak problem seems more like to me but I don't know what to do about that. I have a 1/4" thick gasket on the carb now. Maybe I can find a heat shield to add to it.

I'm getting ready to just get used to having to crank the engine a little.
 
Mike.
29  Camaro Research Group Discussion / Maintenance / Re: flooding engine on: October 08, 2010, 04:39:28 PM
Mark:

Yes I should have said that this is a Q-jet carb. It came to me on an engine taken from a 74 Nova. It had a fuel pump that vented back to the fuel tank and I used the pump with the vent plugged for years. Recently I replaced the pump with a 1967 style pump with no vent.
 
I have looked inside the carb and while I don't see the gas entering the engine I believe that it is because the throttle plates appear to be wet. There are no fumes to be seen and no dripping to be seen but when I removed the carb, the right front port had gas in the intake manifold. It's not enough gas that the engine starts with any black smoke so maybe the gas is evaporating before getting into the cylinders. I just have to hold the throttle to the floor and spin it for a dozen spins or so to get it to start. Another clue may be that I'm only getting about 14 mpg.

I worked as a mechanic in the 1970's and tuned and repaired tons of Q-jet engines and never had this kind of problem. I've seen the gas drilpping into the engine when a float valve sticks and I don't see that here. I'm beginning to think that it is the new gas causing a problem somehow. I just don't see it boiling into the engine. Can it maybe ust be evaporating?

I wish that I had a known good spread bore carb to try on there and see if it corrects the problem.

Mike.
30  Camaro Research Group Discussion / Maintenance / Re: flooding engine on: October 08, 2010, 06:44:43 AM
Having a problem after engine,(sb350) is good and hot, will not start after sets 5 min or so without crankkkkking foot to floor.
Have rebuilt the 4bl qjet. Covered all that I thought would be related to carb itself.
Thinking that it might be related to the heat from the exhaust crossover??



I thought I had seen some discussion in the forum relating to this a short time back but can't find anything now.


Any help out there on this?

I've had the carb off about five times and still the engine floods when I shut it off. I proved that the fuel is passing through the carb into the engine by clamping off a rubber section of fuel line between the fuel pump and carb, waiting a half hour and then disconnecting the hose at each end of the clamp. The pump side still had pressure in it and the carb side did not.

So far I have

1 - Cleaned and rebuilt the carb with kit
2 - Installed 1/4" paper gasket under carb
3 - Installed metal plugs in heat ports in manifold
4 - Installed new float needle and seat and gasket with Cliff's improved seat (no fuel inlet windows)
5 - adjusted new brass float leaner that specs (I forget the exact measure offhand)
6 - installed new fuel pump

I even checked the plugs carefully in the bottom of the float bowl by spraying soapy water on the plugs and blowing compressed air into the jet openings inside the bowl. It's a 1974 carb with the improved plugs and they look good.

All this work and still the carb floods the engine and loses float bowl pressure. The engine starts great shortly after stopping and runs great but floods when left to stand a while.  Does anyone know what I missed? I'm stumped.

Mike.




 
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